galahad
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In the Bottle: gorgeous, bright, pink grapefruit, definitely sugared. On the Skin: this becomes more grapefruit rind, rather than juicy flesh on application which I think is the sandalwood blooming. I don't like the sweaty citrus stage which lasts for a while and I had written this off but the drydown is beautiful and refined - the rose cognac? Anyway, full wear test is required.
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My hope for this was wisps of nag champa incense with dry, dusty hemp cord and that's what I get. This does remind me of 70's new age stores. It's actually pretty cool. The nag champa is surprisingly restrained.
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In the Bottle: Raspberry, darker than normal but with more of a tart bite so this is the jammy aspect. A basenof general sweetness. On the Skin: the raspberry in this is so good. It's definitely jam. No honey to speak of but the buttercream, while very present, isn't overpowering. Honey does peak out occasionally, and it's not a light honey. On the extreme drydown, this smells like milk chocolate and Raspberry. Love it.
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In the bottle: Sanke Oil and berries On the Skin: pretty much the same on the skin but amped up Sanke Oil, berries and a bit of a bakery note in the back. I don't really get ruby chocolate until the late drydown but, regardless, this is gorgeous, rich, bold, smooth and lasts for ages with good throw. A winner.
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In the Bottle: Smells dark and cool, floral which are subtle with a slight sharpness edge and some dusty earth in the background On the Skin: the last thing I wanted was loud, screechy florals and this is not that, thankfully. It starts off quite gently but the flowers find a voice quickly, always with the cool, earthy grounding, with Lily being pretty prominent. Nectar/honey rounds things out without being obvious. I find this really lovely and eerily dark and enticing.
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This is another one I should have tried years ago but have always culled from my cart to bring the total down. Finally giving it a go. On the skin this is initially very soft and subtle, sweetly resinous. It reminds me strongly of the Steampunk blends. This gains some power as it dries down. I believe "golden" is the appropriate description. It's not particularly joyful but it is radiant. FYI the costs adds a wonderful human note to this. Costs smells to me like unwashed hair and adds a warm animalic touch.
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In the Bottle: i get the nectar sweetness with a touch of bitterness and the tobacco On the skin: the rose immediately blooms but isn't overpowering and the spices are very evident, possibly with a touch of chili. I love the lab's copal note but I really can't pick it early in the drydown journey so I'm expecting a pay off deep into the drydown. This is one I have skipped over through the years and I'm glad I picked it up this time. It is quite beautiful, complex and elegant.
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There's no way I am.going to be able to describe this other than - Asian dessert nailed. It's got that savoury/sweet crossover thing happening. Sweet in a not-that-sweet way. Fascinating and I'd say it's not especially wearable but I keep huffing it.
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In the Bottle: Tart passionfruit and custard. On the Skin: A delicious, creamy custard which is very sweet and passionfruit which is mouth-wateringly tart. The caramel of the topping comes in a bit later as the passionfruit moves back a little (but not too far). Almost a citrus element to this. Delicious and perfect for a comfort blend without being maudlin.
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Initially greenish and sappy from the sweet flag (calamus) with a slightly spicy myrrh then it dries down to a glorious golden myrrh. Didn't think I'd love it. I was wrong.
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In the Bottle: Apricot and bergamot. Fairly sharp with no creaminess. On the Skin: The apricot blooms on the skin and, backed by the bergamot, is more reminiscent of grapefruit. The creamy notes emerge not long into the drydown adding some sweetness and fullness. This does have a golden or soft orange feel. The Vulvas can be hit or miss for me. This one isn't quite a hit but may become one with some ageing.
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I get the hype because this is nice. Creamy vanilla with the saffron which, to me, has a motor oil aspect to it. So sexy, cuddly mechanic?
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In the Bottle: Musk, Vanilla and what seems to be a fine tobacco On the Skin: Ooh, nice on the skin. The tobacco is lovely and the other elements almost make this candy-like. The nutmeg is definitely there and adds such a lovely aromatic note, similar to the cardamom effect. Rose geranium adds a dusty rosiness. Very nice.
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In the Bottle: Fruity and musky but light and airy. On the Skin: Definitely some guava and patch with a fine musk that does feel shadowed and cool. This is well blended and the notes can be difficult to pick individually. Overall it is quite fruity the the corresponding amount of sweetness and it's dark and airy. Nice. Probably spring or early autumn for me.
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In the Bottle: Bright lemon and the sandalwood/vanilla On the Skin: mostly vanilla and sandalwood with a light lemon background, initially. The chrysanthemum adds a musky herbaceousness eventually and lemon gets stronger, more zest than juice at this point. This veers into a fine citrus/floral soap at times but it's the vanilla sandalwood that brings it back each time. Probably not a fave but I'll need to do a full wear.
