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Engraving by G. van der Gucht after J. Wootton Bay rum, hay, dried alfalfa, aftershave, and cork stalk. In the bottle: oh! Did The Great Sword of War and Antikythera Mechanism have a spicy baby? On my skin: The first few minutes of this were glorious. That aftershave note really brought out the best of the feelings of Old Spice and the bay rum brought some warmth. However, as it dried down something added an ammonia scent and as it dried down it only got stronger. Boo. On someone else in my house: Warm aftershave with a slightly dry woodsy feel. It was described as "1930s sexy masculine scent" when dried down by the wearer. Definitely has a classic men's scent feel with some added woodsiness. Not a win for my picky skin but my testing partner got a win here.
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- Halloween 2018
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Jean Veber Pumpkin cream, honey, vanilla sugar, and smoked vanilla bean. In The Bottle: sweet, creamy vanilla and scratchy vanilla bean, with a breath of pumpkin. Yum! Wet On Skin: the pumpkin comes out a bit more and the honey with it, warming the scent up a bit. Dry Down: A beautiful, light pumpkin ice cream! In All: low throw, a sweet, gentle scent. Not too foodie. Perfect for daytime wear throughout the fall. Total keeper!
- 44 replies
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- Halloween 2015
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Engraving by Jacques Jordaens Goat’s milk, nectar, ambrosia, and honey. Wet: Gingerbread and honeyed fruit. Yummy! Dry: Fruit with honeyed milk. Slightly soapy. Drydown: Thankfully, soapiness turned to floral nuttiness. Milk note is more of a soft cloud around me. 2nd time testing: Bready, like yeast and hops. Reminds me of Narr. Getting a bit of rubber at the end, but that comes and goes. Still soft and milky. Average wear and throw.
- 21 replies
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Henry Fuseli Mandrake root, apple blossom, dusty brown sandalwood, coconut milk, woodmusk, and soft leather. This is a contemplative scent, soft and dusty in a pleasant way. The first things I smell in the wet stage are the sandalwood and coconut milk. I love the uniqueness of this sandalwood note, which really sets itself apart form the too-dry sandalwoods and the sexy sandalwoods that often appear in Ars Amatoria and the Lupers. This one is unexpectedly comforting, like a furry blanket you've just discovered in the attic and now can't let go. There is an additional, earthier woodiness behind it, which I believe is the mandrake root, and a hint of very well-worn brown leather. The creamy coconut milk and gently floral apple blossom also wrap themselves around you like that furry blanket. It's something I would want to be wearing during a long rainy day, curled up on the sofa, oblivious to everything else except the book I'm reading.
- 9 replies
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Jan de Bisschop Blackened tonka, patchouli, dragon's blood resin, and scorched oak. This is absolutely beautiful. The light sweet powdery of tonka calms the patchouli of the dragon and the oak just rounds it out beautifully. This scent is so well blended that I can't believe the notes listed. I just adore it! So, so glad I bought it.
- 18 replies
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- Halloween 2015
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Albert-Joseph Pénot Bourbon vanilla, sweet red patchouli, oudh, goat's milk accord, and white honey. In The Bottle: Creamy goat's milk and sweet patchouli. YUM! Wet On Skin: the Oudh just popped out and it's adding a nice grounding aspect. Dry Down: This now has the warm spice of Hod, but with the goat's milk adding a little milky texture into the mix. It's a bit odd, to be honest. But I find my self compelled to sniff repeatedly. In All: Low throw, close to the skin scent. I would wear this primarily during the day, as a scent to feel cozy with, like curing up with a good book and a mug of tea.
- 35 replies
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- Pickman Gallery
- Halloween 2015
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John William Waterhouse Vanilla-infused frankincense and clary sage with 7-year aged patchouli, jasmine sambac, honey myrtle, and oudh. I love Waterhouse's art, and The Magic Circle has long been a favorite, so I knew I needed this one! I have to say, vanilla-infused frankincense is delicious. The vanilla really softens the sharp edge that frankincense can sometimes have on my skin, yet it still retains that solemn incensey vibe that I love. The clary sage is very distinctive, as always, but is prevented from being too masculine for me by the sweetness of the jasmine sambac. I don't get a lot of my beloved aged patchouli, it seems to be laying low with the honey myrtle and oude to create a nice base. It may become more prominent with age, too. This is gorgeous. I think I need all the Pickman Hecate blends. Oy!
- 19 replies
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- Pickman Gallery
- Halloween 2015
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Frans Francken II Belladonna accord, sprigs of rue, crushed hyssop, white sage, beeswax, mandrake leaf, bay rum, black honey, hemp, and myrrh. In the bottle: Nothing like I'd imagined. A very sweet and delicately herbal. Wet: A bit like air freshener - light and airy and very "clean". Dry: Sweet herbs and the syrupy side that myrrh sometimes turns to on me, which is probably exacerbated by the honey. Another win for the Pickmans!
- 14 replies
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Nikolai Kalmakoff Red musk and cacao with clove, caramelized tobacco, aged patchouli, red currant, black leather, and vanilla-infused amber. Wet: I swear as I live in breathe this smells like Reese's PB cup on my skin. Fruity Reese's butter cup. Dry: The woman of Satan smells fierce. Light red musk, no caramel, vanilla infused amber, and no black leather . This woman is truly the baddest bitch in town and she knows it. Not strong at all. Very light, close to the skin but damn if it is not sexy!!!
- 24 replies
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- Pickman Gallery
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Thomas Stothard White leather and cypress-tinged white musk with cardamom, smouldering incense, Ceylon cinnamon and white sandalwood. Holy moly. This reminds me most of the Hell of Great Heat meets the Evening on the Veranda atmo spray from Trading Post. I would assume if you enjoyed either one of those (as I do) you would love this. The leather isn't harsh or chemical-y and I smell it first with a touch of cypress and cinnamon. Then...there is a spicy incense explosion! Cardamom, yes. Cinnamon, yes. Incense, yes. Wow. This one is going to age like a dream, but it is already perfect. LOVE THIS.
- 14 replies
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- Sympathy for the Devil
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Harrison Weir Golden apples, cedar and redwood trellises heavy with grapevine, beeswax, hemp, vanilla benzoin, and bois de rose. I like this blend a lot when I first put it on. The apples, wood, grapevine and hemp all combine nicely. I can't smell the beeswax or vanilla. It mostly disappears after about ten minutes, sadly. I've only had it for a week, though, so maybe it needs more time to become more than a close skin scent.
- 9 replies
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- Portraits of Genus Capra
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A. Ducote Sweet vetiver, bourbon vanilla, and wool. This is the beautiful vanilla blend that I've been looking for all along, like a softer cousin to The Antikythera Mechanism and Tombstone. It's simple, like most of my favorites, and easy to wear. The sweet vetiver blends gorgeously with the bourbon vanilla and wool. It makes me think of a perfect autumn day somewhere in a cool climate, when the skies are a rich blue that contrasts with the orange leaves. I think it will be glorious and long-lasting in a scent locket too.
- 20 replies
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Philipp Peter Roos Caramelized wood resins, black peppercorn, and leather. I'm still new to testing out HG scents, so I got a 4ml tester in a spritz bottle so I could actually spray it on my hair. I was hoping for leather. What I got was sickly sour yellow biting wood. As it dries peppercorn comes out, which just adds more bite. Turns to a kind of powerdery sour wood resin with an acrid bite. It bothers my sinuses. And a couple little squirts goes a long way!
- 4 replies
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Frans Francken II Burgundy and champaca resin with immortelle, leather accord, wine-soaked red fruits, rose geranium petals, red patchouli, guttering candles, and smoke. This is definitely heavy on the wine and I barely smell the patchouli. The immortelle and rose geranium make it a little soapy... I was hoping more for Lady Macbeth with some champa, but this ends up smelling more white-flower-y on me. Potentially off to swaps with ye!
- 14 replies
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Henry Fuseli Golden amber, carnation, blackcurrant, aged black patchouli, red musk, and vetiver. Red Musk, vetiver, and carnation with an under current of patchouli are the highlights of this blend while wet. As it dries the amber comes forth with its golden resinous feel. The black currant gives just the barest touches of sweetness. As this dries the patchouli remains a dark base for the scent as the vetiver and musk swirl around while the amber and the carnation and currant attempt to lift the blend out of the dark earth. This is the first blend where I've been able to reliably pick out vetiver and found out I actually like it. So beware those hoping this is light on vetiver ... it's not. Edit: Okay, this was reminding me of something and I just couldn't figure it out but it finally came to me! It's like a cousin of Lawn Gnome. It has that same patch/currant combo. That's why I love it so much. =)
- 15 replies
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- Pickman Gallery
- Halloween 2015
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Lorenz Frølich Caramelized patchouli, cream, and thick golden honey. This reminds me of the smoky bonfire/earth scent that's in Samhain drizzled with cream and honey, only more smoke and earth and less sugary sweetness. This feels like it's going to be a much-coveted instant classic. It's cozy and witchy and the honey and cream are very prominent, but not cloyingly so. I might have to buy a backup bottle or two!
- 17 replies
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Otto Goetze Red roses and vetiver with cashmere incense, rue, and cauldron spices. beautiful bright, juicy, happy rose scent. maybe a touch of smoke from the incense/vetiver at the very early wet phase, but the dry down is pure juicy rose. i love vetiver and have tried a few other bpal rose/vetiver blends, and this is the lab's lightest use of vetiver that I've met...almost like it's just there to help the rose stay bright and present. of course, i'm testing it in a city filled with the smoke from the Camp Fire from Paradise, CA, so apologies if that's limited my ability to detect smoke. moderate sillage. I've had this on for about eight hours now and I can still detect it when I huff my wrist. it's a little bit innocent, a little bit classy, very slightly creamy in texture.
- 4 replies
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John Nixon Honey, cream and white rose petals buffeted by toadstools, creeping moss, bog cypress, and myrrh. In the bottle: Honey, myrrh and something tangy, which is probably the mosses and myrrh. Wet: Fizzy penny sweets! Like cherry cola bottles. I dunno what's going on there. Dry: Mostly a rosy myrrh and maybe a little honey. It's gorgeous and I love it.
- 13 replies
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Louis Boulanger Oman frankincense, black clove, and tobacco tar. This is a beautiful sweet frankincense (definitely the same frankincense in All Souls) and the clove adds a little spice. Super up my alley! Lovely and simple. I feel like this is destined to become a favorite.
- 15 replies
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- Pickman Gallery
- Halloween 2015
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Tassili NAjjer, 4000-1500BC Tonka bean, red clay, rose tobacco, and oudh. In the Bottle: Rosy tobacco and dust On the Skin: Definitely a dusty clay note, which I love, tobacco with a subtle rosiness and a little woody oudh in the background. On the Drydown: Seems like there might be a bit of whiskey in this. Overall reminds me of a cross between The Writing on the Slate and Flickering Lantern. It has low throw but is tenacious on the skin. Pretty - softly dusty rose tobacco
- 11 replies
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18th century Russian lubok, illustrator unknown Red amber, frankincense C02 absolute, green fig, labdanum, King mandarin, Atlas cedar, and bitter almond. I got this because it has some similarities to a long discontinued favorite of mine, Mad Meg. Almond is usually a straight up NOPE before it even gets to my skin, but MM surprised me, and I hoped Boar and Goat would as well. And the almond is very definitely prominent at first. It settles down quickly, though, and then the frankincense/cedar/labdanum peek through just a bit. The fig and the mandarin blend together into a high-pitched, light-fruity note. Juicy, not jammy. The amber is undetectable, which is strange because I usually amp amber like crazy. After it's been on my skin for a while, it starts to remind me of ... Swank, maybe? I don't have an imp anymore to cross-reference, but it has that alcoholic fruity thing going on now, and the almond has disappeared.
- 4 replies
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- Halloween 2018
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Christoffel Pierson Polished mahogany, copal resin, Java sandalwood, teakwood, and Sumatran patchouli. Mmmmmmm... This might be the one... The one I've been searching for. Do not let the name fool you, this is the scent of a grown man. Smooth, dark, devastatingly beautiful. High Lord of the Night Court? This is his skin. I love me a gloriously androgynous perfume, and this one is dangerous. A slinky pool of darkest silk on inky polished floors. Well blended, with that silky smooth patch leading, or is it the deep polished woods giving the patchouli such a dark silky gleam? I couldn't say. But it's good. The throw is pretty small on me, but that makes it all the more devilish. A scent to make my hetero fiance question why the 'masculine' scent he's huffing on my wrist is pulling him closer for more. A scent to cause confusion from every straight girl within arms length, "I smell hot guy."... ITS ME, but I am no man. A unisex power scent for all the Darklings.
- 6 replies
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- Halloween 2018
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Venus Pandemos Hay, rose otto, red benzoin, torch smoke, and pink carnation. Venus Pandemos is an interesting scent. The hay note is listed first for a reason, because it is definitely in the forefront of this blend. It’s unusual, though: It isn’t as “dusty” as the other Lab hay notes. Instead, this smells like fresh hay. (And let me tell you, I just had a long talk with myself about what that means. Because isn’t fresh hay, well, grass?! But no, that’s not what this is. The note here, it’s like there is a dampness to it. And maybe a hint of a nutty cream-like scent? So maybe freshly-rolled hay is a little less, I dunno, fusty, or something? It’s also amazing that I don’t smell any benzoin, because my nose can find a drop of that in the ocean. This isn’t resin-y at all. There’s also just a whisper of smoke, and the slightest warm and spicy floral hint. (I mean, really: If it weren’t for that hay note, I would wonder if I got a mislabeled decant!) I’m still not sure if I like this. There isn’t much throw, which is okay for a smell like this one, and it doesn’t last very long on my skin.
- 3 replies
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Jacob Jordaens A heavy, animalic musk with cognac, fir balsam, grapevine, black cypress, patchouli, honey, and copaiba balsam Clean musk, whiffs of grapevine, cypress, patchouli and honey. But yeah, this smells like a slightly honeyed, clean musk on me. Good throw and wear length. Huh. I'm super surprised at how much I'm actually enjoying this. So yeah, not scary at all. In fact, really good.
- 2 replies
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Albert Bierstadt Ponderosa pine, mountain big sagebrush, black locust, pinon pine, white fir, fragrant snakeroot, and Rocky Mountain sage. Just from the bottle, I can already tell that this is exactly what I was hoping for! I spent most of my life in Montana and also lived in Colorado for a few years, and now that I live in the desert, I really miss the smell of those evergreen forests. I have Elf HG, which I love, but it has more of a spring and summer vibe, and I’ve been wanting a darker forest hair gloss to wear with scents like Golden Priapus, Theoi Nomioi, and some Yules that I have with the pine-y snow note. So this was the scent I was most looking forward to from the Trading Post Weenie update (part one)... because it's a darker evergreen forest scent WITH GOATS ON THE LABEL. This hair gloss did not disappoint. When I smell it, I am transported back to those wonderful forests. There’s a blast of pine at first, and it remains the main player throughout, but I do get the sage behind it, and after a while, some fir. I feel like the sage becomes more prominent after a few hours of wear. While some scents become light after a few hours after being applied to damp hair, this isn’t one of them, and I imagine that the scent would have even more longevity and strength when applied to dry hair, as that’s usually the case with most hair glosses. I am thrilled that this is a thing. If you are wanting forest-scented tresses, don’t let this one pass you by! I absolutely adore this and am so glad that I leapt for a bottle.
- 9 replies
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