VioletChaos

Of the July 2024 releases, I admit, this was the one I was MOST excited for! In The Bottle: All coconut aspects accounted for! I definitely can individually pull out the husk from the meat from the milk, even at this early stage, and it is SO good! Wet On Skin: Milk and Meat are coming out to the fore. I hope this is transitional, cause that husk smelled *really* good in the bottle. Dry Down: The husk *does* come back! Hooray! If the frond is meant to be a bit of a "green" note, I don't get it here. But I'm not at all mad about it, because this is so beautiful as is with the coconut milk, meat and husk. It's got a bit of that "cool" coconut note I remember from Obatala, but this is definitely its own thing. It's NOT suntan lotion and it's *also* NOT candy coconut. This is the scent of sitting under a coconut tree surrounded by fallen, dry fronds, basking in the gentle warmth, protected from the direct sunlight by the tree's shadow. It's ridiculously beautiful and may, in fact, require at least one backup bottle.

In The Bottle: There is something surprisingly...watery...about this combination. 😳 I'm really surprised, because neither of these notes has EVER given me even a hint of such a thing! I think there's something about these two together that lends itself toward a whisper of petrichor somehow, and I definitely don't mind. Wet On Skin: As with this month's Deer Moon itself, it starts to shift fairly dramatically shortly after it begins to warm up. The notes are separating themselves out into the very recognizable beeswax note I've known and loved in other BPAL blends and a less-prominent tobacco that smells more like the soil note in Penny Dreadful than any tobacco notes I've encountered from The Lab previously. For me, it works, cause I usually love earth and dirt notes. Dry Down: It stays largely the same from first touch to dry down, so not much morphing. It's a warm "skin" scent, definitely stays close, not alot of throw. Always test carefully, but don't be surprised if you have to slather a little Layered with Deer Moon, as intended: I get it. If Deer Moon didn't have such forward Blackberry, adding in this Duet might be overkill. But these two notes add some warmth with the sweetness making the layering a really beautiful cuddly scent. In All: F or the remainder of this hot, hot summer, I'll likely keep this Duet for separate use from the Deer it's paired with. The *moment* we get a cool, autumnal day, though, the layering will be ON

In The Bottle: A surprisingly light combination of the cacao and musk, with a little blackberry and oak bark bitten off at the end. Wet On Skin: It warms up and starts to shift quickly, becoming more rich and strong- basically more in line what I'd expect from the scent profile for this. The musk is warm but not super dark, like a brown or black musk. I'm frankly relieved as those both tend to go wet cardboard with my chemistry suuuuuper fast. The blackberry continues its upward climb, becoming a near-predominant note. It's fascinating because I've generally experienced it in blends that are foodie-forward and really support a fruit as the star of the show. But this is an instant where the note plays against type and it's really working at this stage. Dry Down:The blackberry, oak bark musk and a hint of the cacao all come together in the blend at this point where it's a bit harder to pull out the individual notes. (given the density for most of them, I anticipate this will only get stronger with age). That said, I want to make clear that in spite of a few prominent notes, I would *not* call this a foodie or gourmand scent. If anything the combination, once settled and released by the skin, becomes a little reminiscent of a high-end masculine cologne. Alas, I get no blood or sandalwood at any point in the process, but it's a really interesting scent that I think will come into its own with a little bit of aging.

If I had to compare this scent with another, for me what comes closest is Australian Copperhead from Carnival Diabolique's Snake Pit. It's the combination of Snake Oil and the Acai Berry in that one that I recall as I sniff the strawberry / Snake Oil mix in this one. Full disclosure, I am one of those for whom fresh SO doesn't really work. For me, fireworks don't really kick off for, at the *very* least, a month. Six months is better, a year is far better and a decade or more is best. (Not kidding: slowly working my way currently through a 10mL bottle of Snake Oil from 2006 or so and it's just about the love of my life!). I mention this because there's a way that Snake Oil needs time and patience to settle into itself. Fortunately, this strawberry is NOT going plastic on me! It's retaining its sweet, fruity self in much the same way the fruit is forward and sweet-tart in Copperhead. And because of that, I have every reason to believe that this latest iteration of Snek is going to be a fine addition to my collection. In all: if you love all the Snakes OR you like your SO blends with a bit of fruit, you will likely want to snag Serpent in the Berries sooner rather than later!

I've been on a bit of a musk kick recently, and was both intrigued by what "silvered" might mean and also by how it might in fact layer with Strawberry Moon 2024, which I already knew I was going to purchase. As with some of the duets, the perfume on its own is fairly simple and straight forward, which is totally the point. The currant is one I've encountered in other Lab blends, and is slightly tart and gently sweet and fruity. The musk took me by a bit of surprise. For some reason I'd anticipated that it would be similar to a white musk, and it's not at all. That said, it's not a rich musk either. The closest thing I can point to is that this is sort of a water-musk. As in, the note I'm getting from it reminds me of other water / rain / ocean notes I've encountered (no salt, though, so don't expect any!). Metallics can go weird on me, as can water notes, so I was leery of what would happen next. What happened next, is that I tested it all by itself and it scarcely stayed on my skin, other than as a ghost of a scent. BUT, what was *actually* surprising, and delightful, is when I layered it with Strawberry Moon as it was designed for- and THAT was a lovely surprise! Perhaps because in the composition of this year's SM there's richer, grounded notes like Laudanum and incense, it seems to have given these delicate notes something to hold onto, so it definitely increased the staying power for sure. AND it shifted the Moon out of its thoroughly dark aspect and into something more far-reaching and expansive. This is my first official foray into the Duets that are meant to be layered with specific Moons but it won't be the last based on the success of this one!

This is a perfect counter-weight to the Strawberry Moons of the past. What I mean by that is that the previous SM's that I've personally adored have been bright, tart affairs, they dazzled because they were that magic thing of smelling unbelievably Real. I still hoard my beloved SM '09, with its juicy berry and tart, green sap notes. It's beautiful as a mild, very sunny summer day. This Strawberry Moon? Is most decidedly NOT any of that. I was excited to try this new iteration because of the pairing of potentially lighter elements (berry, tea) with emphatically darker ones (notably my always-favorite indigo musk plus plum incense and laudanum). And it's a HUGE win. This, to me, is primarily an incense-heavy scent. And one might see "strawberry+incense must therefore = headshop", but fear not, gentle folk, it's not that! The incense quality gives it that 'dark' quality from the Lab description of the scent, though I concur with the above poster that this doesn't come across as ominous. It's definitely a summer scent, but again, the opposite of the "bright/sunny/mild" aspects- this is both for those oppressively hot days when the air is so thick it feels like we should swim through it rather than walk. And it's definitely for gloomy, rainy, overcast days as well. The strawberry isn't quite real, or if it is, it's less to me reading as over-ripe and more like dried berries, in the same way that fresh roses, when dried, go from being envisioned in a vase or on the stem to being in a crypt or a Victorian parlor. And in spite of all elements, the scent has surprisingly low throw, so start gently, but don't be surprised if you feel the need to slather, at least a little. In All, likely going to pick up a second bottle, after it's confirmed that this ages as well as I suspect it will! (PS, I *did* layer with one of its intended Duets, Silvered Musk and Red Currant, and yes, it is a worthwhile activity as it shifts the scent quite a bit!)

In the bottle, that sweet oakmoss is right at the front. I have to sniff a few times before I pick up anything else, but eventually I notice an edge of the orchid in there. Wet on skin, the scent immediately starts to shift, with the benison coming out to play almost immediately. As the fragrance continues to warm, further layers start to unfurl, blossoming outward- the ambers sweetening the scent, and the balsamic in particular is adding an interesting twist, in the same way that balsamic vinegar adds sweetness without being at all sugary (this is precisely what I was hoping it would do, so I'm delighted that it has come to pass!). Eventually the narcissus peeks out adding an interesting acrid undertone that keeps the scent from veering into cloying territory. Strangely, in spite of the name and ingredient list, I get no hyacinth on me. I've used pure essential hyacinth oil, so I'm familiar with that version of the scent- if it's in here it's either buried by the other notes or else my skin ate it. Anything is possible! However, even without the Princess Herself showing up for me, this scent is really, really lovely, one of those perfumes that's so well-blended that the individual notes blur entirely, creating a melange that's just its own beautiful, singular entity. And just in time for spring! This scent is low throw, but dense, so I'd still go easy on application until you see how it plays with your personal chemistry. Pure resin-filled love! ❤️

I'm a fan of violet, (if you couldn't tell from my screen name) and that alone grabbed my attention here. The addition of vanilla and bergamot plus the intrigue of..."what exactly does porcelain smell like?!" and I knew I had to snag a bottle. the scent in the bottle is deceptively floral, with that iris singing lous and clear- don't be fooled, she runs off upon contact. That's when the changes begin. First, the trickle of red musk here seems to be the same variety that stole my heart in Random Brothel, and I'm definitely not mad about it. Second, that violet leaf is more violet flower from what I can tell (the leaf tends to be quite 'green' smelling, whereas I'm definitely getting violets in this mix. The bourbon vanilla bites back the acrid note of the musk before it can get too intense or stuffy. And the porcelain? Well, several minutes after application, I kid you not, there was a moment where the scent smelled mostly of...wet clay. Yep. Straight up, 'throwing on the wheel' clay situation. It was strange and, as an artist that has played with ceramics, strangely comforting. And then it was gone, to be replaced with the violet / musk combination. Chalk it up to one of Beth's genius "how does she DO that?!" moments, and marvel for a moment. Then enjoy the rest of what the scent has to offer

The mango comes on strong in the bottle but starts to fade upon contact with the skin. The scent changes rapidly, passing over the orange blossom completely, alas, and ending up a lightly spicy, vaguely incense-y pink musk, reminding me very much of the phlox-heavy Pink Moon. I'm in love with the Lab's mango note, but unfortunately for me, apart from in the bottle, it's nowhere to be found 😢

I splurged on two from the Roses and Pearls line, and this is one of them (the other being Rubies). Neither had disappointed, but Roses, Pearls, and Sapphires may prove to be my favorite, not just of this mini series, but Lupercalia 2024 as a whole (apart from the triumphant return of Glowing Vulva, but c'mon. That's a whole other realm.) In the bottle, the lavender rose (the 'rose' is a formality- this reads as lavender to my nose) and blueberry play elegantly together in a surprisingly delicate dance. Not that either note is known for being so aggressive, but I've certainly encountered scents where one of these two could be quite loud given the chance. Wet, then warming, on the skin both notes blossom and unfurl some, with lavender gently edging blueberry out for top spot, for a spell, until the coconut husk comes to reign lavender back in. "Husk" is important here: this is NOT coconut-coconut. Not the candied coconut or suntan lotion coconut you might be anticipating, so you must do away with such notions immediately. This is the scratchy, earthy bit outside of all that and here it has the not-insubstantial task of grounding this scent, to keep it from all floating away, too high, into the stratosphere. Only after husk and fully done that task does the cerulean musk stroll in, and not a moment too soon. I've been on a big ol' blue musk deep dive for about the past year, and it was THE note that made me snatch up a bottle of this here elixir and it does NOT disappoint. Every blend I try a blue musk variant in is wildly different than the last, so there's no direct comparisons here, except to say that I continue to feel vindicated by each new exploration into this lesser-known entry into the musk family. It's not a mistake that nearly all the notes in a scent with "Sapphires" in the name would have a blue allusion, but here its especially overt, a sparkling blue gem of a scent, it has a shine and hardness that align it with the crystalline icicles of late winter, but there's also a warmth here that slinks in once the scent has settled in completely, something to snuggle into when the ice outside all seems a bit too much.

The red wine is strong with this one! When sniffed in the bottle, all the way through to complete drydown, the red wine note is front and center. The note itself is one I've adored in the past, in the old-time Yule treat, Glüwein, and so I can only hope that this will age just as magnificently as that one has. There *is* quite a lot to hope for with this blend, notably the oakmoss and mandarin notes, which both play the part of insuring this scent is not a one-note wonder, even if they are working more or less behind the scenes. (I've tried one-note wine scents and they come across more or less as fussy grape juice, which is definitely NOT what's happening here, by the way.) Oakmoss is a note I personally love, adding a rich, vaguely sweet and unusually spicy depth. The Spanish mandarin is not here to lend a foodie tone, but rather a bit of tart acid, which brightens the scent and keeps it from getting lost in a sticky haze. Hours later, and it's still going strong: a little goes a long way, both with staying power and with throw, which is definitely one of the highest I've encountered: dab lightly until you know how it'll bloom on your skin. The end game is a languid and sultry drift into sweet oblivion, whether you leave enticing traces behind you during a leisurely stroll, or on a silky pillowcase after a decadent sleepover. Whichever path chosen, you'll leave them wanting

If you took the yummy baked goods note from my most beloved Crumpet Rebellion and added in a healthy chomp of rhubarb, you come pretty close to getting the gourmand delight that is Rhubarb Custard Muffins. In the bottle and freshly applied, this scent is VERYY heavy on the tangy, tart rhubarb. It takes w while to settle into anything more balanced, and frankly, I'm glad for it, because the fresh, sharp aspect is a lovely surprise as we ease out of the darkness at the end of winter and into lighter, brighter spring. Once settled in, the scent takes on a lovely second stage, joining the ranks of other great baked goods fragrances for those of us that like to sometimes smell like we are completely edible. If you are looking for a foodie scent for daytime wear, or if you have a special place in your heart for the old BPAL greats like the afore-mentioned Crumpet Rebellion or Blackberry Jam and Scones, then you will be quite excited to add this to your repertoire.

Full disclosure, as soon as I saw that rhubarb was in the mix, this bottle fell directly into my shopping cart, but I also was definitely worried in equal measure about rose being a dominant force in this blend, as roses and I have an a tumultuous relationship over the long years. so now you know. Onward! In the bottle, I am immediately surprised, pleasantly, with the dominance of the red amber and labdanum. At this stage its not overpowering as labdanum can sometimes be. Instead it's sweet in a non-sugary way, and resinous but not overly intense. Once warmed up and dried down on the skin, the scent becomes more of a melange: the labdanum is still the front, but even less aggressively than before. The rose peeks out, but it's the incense aspect that is actually more present than the floral here. I get little whiffs that indicate the dried strawberries here, the tang of the rhubarb there. (Side note: not mad about the subtlety of the rhubarb here, partly because the slivers of tartness feel appropriate in this blend overall and partly because I picked up a bottle of the Rhubarb Custard Muffins which are GLORIOUSLY and INTENSELY an ode to rhubarb and flaky pastry, so I feel both ends of the rhubarb scent spectrum have been thoroughly satisfied with this Luper update ). Once the scent had fully and completely settled into my skin, the scents has morphed a bit further, becoming, in the end, a spicy sexy scent that has a low-medium throw that allows, with careful wear, to use during the day, like a smexy chastity belt secreted away under a corporate suit but, worn with a touch more reckless abandon, transforms easily into nighttime debauchery at the drop of a hat...or any other clothing item your devious heart desires

Frost-dappled night-blooming petals, Oman frankincense, champaca orchid resin, and opium tar accord. Oh. Oh MYYYYYYYY. To be honest, although my interest was piqued instantly when I read the notes, I also was concerned. Frost? Is that going to be like water or ozone? Because those notes almost never work with my skin chemistry. And the champaca could go either way. But the opium tar and night-blooming petals had my hopes up. And it paid off! In the bottle, I noticed right away that the scent was lighter than I'd expected given some of the notes but also given this was a Bloodmilk scent, since many of the ones I've tried tend to be very dense and rich and moody (just like their jewelry!) but this really was quite light, and even slightly powdery. As the scent warmed up and then fully dried on my skin, it just got better and better, those florals mixing gorgeously with the tar and resins to create this dreamy encounter, reminding me somehow of a passionflower incense I adored in high school. I have not been able to stop huffing myself and it's literally hours and hours later. Total, beautiful, win.

I got this entirely because of the cerulean musk, as I've become fairly obsessed with blue musks in the past year or so, AND, It definitely does NOT disappoint in this regard! In the bottle and when freshly applied, the orchid dominates- the flower is almost...juicy...somehow in its depth. I was a little worried about that floral before ordering but I find in application that I'm intrigued more than anything. It settles back pretty quickly and the amber, plum and musk all move into the foreground together. I definitely feel this to be the same plum note as appears in Mme Moriarty but the vibe here is *completely* different, so no worries of overlap or repetition for sure. The ivy isn't out front but I get the sense (scents!) she's keeping everything from heading into hippy-girl-incense territory and instead elevates the whole party to a sweetly sexy affair instead. I am *supremely* delighted to have gotten this and can't wait to see how it ages!