patina
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Dark, dark cacao. The dominant impression is brown musk and plum colored musk. With the cacao still holding its own. The “plum” is probably the brandy.
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In vial, STRONG bitter coffee grounds mixed seamlessly with patchouli. On my arm the patchouli calms down and the vanilla and spices come out. This will no doubt be lovely after some aging. The coffee is giving me a little pause right now because it’s so bitter and a little sweaty (amber?)
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Big candy cane. Herbal anise. Like aftershave but not really aftershave at all, something more subtle and sweeter. Because of the description I get hoodie. Maybe also because of the anise=licorice=the color black thing? Also it seems like Justin draws on himself in magic marker.
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Because of the label art I can’t help seeing this series as characters. Retch reads young to me. They’re trying to be gross and shocking (that booze reads as a little too close to bile sometimes. The oud is a little grungy but not actually barnyard.) In reality they’re about as dangerous as breakfast cereal. Specifically Cocoa Puffs.
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I see this leather as a sophisticated older sister sort of scent. (Though it’s unisex.) Sophisticated except she has cinnamon bun frosting smeared all around her mouth. Really the smooshedness of the cinnamon bun is coming through.
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I think I like this more than Dead Leaves and Apple Pie. The baked apple seems slightly tarter, the coffee really brings out the apple. Light throw. I suspect it won’t stick around too long, but so good otherwise.
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The dead leaves start out dank and vegetal and quickly turn dry and a little talcum-y. The apple is very much soft baked apple, with a generous sprinkle of cinnamon. I do in fact get idealized apple pie on windowsill surrounded by swirling leaves. I don't like apple cinnamon scents as a general rule but the soft, subtle throw on this is beautiful. The contrast of foody with leaves is something I like.
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Fried dough and mystery! jam. On reflection, that's probably the honey. Also waxy chocolate and probably some pumpkin spice going on but there's so much here it's hard to say. If you ever wanted to smell like a sufiganiyah and honey with a little smushed chocolate candy debris now is your chance. It's pretty rich.
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Black.coffee, absolutely. With syrup and the ghost of burnt hash browns lingering. On remembering that there’s clove I can smell it. I prefer Hearse of Pancakes which is milder with a touch of doughnut and no greasy spoon vibe. Trying this layered with Black Coffee and Apple pie to see if I smell like a Twin Peaks diner. Edit: someone asked me if I was wearing scent with this one and said “no, that doesn’t smell like coffee.” That clove smoke has quite a throw
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2023. Refreshing? Green-yellow? I can see that it's a floral but it does come off as a scent like Embalming Fluid. I'd guess straw, chrysanthemums, chamomile, aloe, but not the actual ingredients. Must be the funeral bouquets. Maybe candlewax? I get a little incense in the background that comes out on drydown. A tiny bit of bitter tobacco, but that's it.
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I think this one is 2008. immediately bitter green cut flower stems. Then I get a tiny bit of tobacco. On drydown it's copal, with a little bit of wood and tobacco under. Best for cold weather, I think. Edit: I can sense rose but only after being told it’s there. I think my nose is partially non functioning
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There’s a similar makeup note to Clown White SN but here it’s faint under the buttercream and sandalwood and gardenia. It’s largely vanilla, fairly low throw but delicious. Gardenia blends seamlessly, only detectable in top note.
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It smells like the dead, wet, disintegrating leaves and fallen blooms around my camellia bushes right now. Forest floor muskiness. But the khus, saffron and clove are drier and spicier than that. Clove comes out more on wear but that note doesn’t get too strong for me. The khus etc bring to mind Old Spice notes but the camellia and amber give it a little roundness. A+ for evoking winter/fall but I’m still trying to decide how much I like it.
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I prefer this to a pure chocolate scent, though I understand why wood might be jarring to some people. It does blend well enough. That's a really nice dark cocoa. My only complaint is that it goes very faint on the drydown for me. I'll use it for layering with Misketonic U and other scents that could use a splash of warm cocoa and sandalwood.
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Apple spiced with dead leaf and concrete. October never worked on me, but this is good. Unless you really can’t stand dead leaves in any amount, this is lovely.
