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Showing results for tags 'Lupercalia 2015'.
Found 76 results
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Bulgarian rose, dark musk, orange blossoms, white fig, and honey. first i smell leafy greenery and then roses. though maybe that greenery is really orange blossom? I think it is. after it settles down the fig, musk and honey come out more, softening the rose and orange blossom and adding some sweetness, wherein it becomes a figgy rose with a touch of honey. i am really into the honeyed-roses and this one works better for me than honeyed golden musk, rosewater and red sandalwood did, though i feel it could kind of be a cousin scent to that one. it's lighter and less nutty, which i like because i tend to not like nuttiness in a scent unless it's almond. definitely keeping my decant, though a big bottle is not necessary, as i've been going crazy with all the rose atmo. sprays!
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VENUS CALLIPYGE Venus With the Pretty Bottom Iris root, carnation, and grandiflorum jasmine with violet leaf, muguet, and peach blossom. Iris, carnation and jasmine. This smells like powdery iris, spicy carnation, and a whiff of jasmine and violet leaf. This smells like a grand dame of grandmother perfumes. And I mean this in the best way possible. This is Lady Violet Crawley of Downtown Abbey. Unapologetically floral, grand, and you can just feel it rooted in tradition. A force unto herself. The other analogy I have to offer is that this is the floral perfume of a crone. Think of Grandma Hempstock in Neil Gaiman's Ocean at the End of the Lane. Old, female, powerful. If my grandmother was still alive, I'd get her a bottle of this. It would be the type of scent she appreciates wearing for herself.
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Poppy leaves, tobacco leaves, mandrake root, and dried ivy. Always hard to be first....I will do my best since I really don't know what poppy leaves or mandrake really smell like! In decant: Sniffing this....I detect the ivy, which is a little sharp, but not eye watering. There is also that leaf smell. It is pleasant and herbal. In damp hair: At first, I almost got a hint of some floral....it was almost "old lady" smelling (if that makes sense?) but then it softened up quickly (good thing!). It turned into an almost sweet herbal leafy type scent. I do not get any tobacco anything out of this. After a few: It ended up being real nice! Kept the sweetness (maybe the poppy?) and a pleasant herbal-ness to it. I am one to not like green type scents but I really like this one. It surprisingly has a low throw and the scent seems to fade pretty quick, but this is nice for those who might have to work close with people and don't want to offend anyone! Also perfect for Spring/Summer!
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THE WET NURSE AND THE OLD MONK Red sandalwood, peach, white tea, and champaca. Ok this gets my vote for Name Which Inspires Most Horrifying Images... But I had to buy it because it sounded so delicious, and yes, it is. Very fruity and lush at the top, peachy but grounded, I guess that is the red sandalwood, champaca is present in the background but not aggressive. I can't smell the White Tea yet, but I didn't wear it that long. Fresh, lush, not cloying.
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Black cypress, celery seed, Italian bergamot, green juniper berries, ylang ylang, and petitgrain. Preconceived notions: This was the one of the series I was most looking forward to sniffing since the notes are mostly things I really like and no known death notes. Petitgrain single note is euphoria inducing for me and juniper in a blend is something I usually sniff compulsively. I tend to like woody notes, and cypress is no exception. Ylang Ylang is a floral that usually behaves on my skin. So these notes are all win in theory. I am new to reviewing and a little hesitant to go first, as I have not experienced many single notes, and still struggle to pick things out of a blend, but most of these notes I have experience sniffing and as someone may need a review to make a purchase decision, I will venture forth, and please forgive my befuddlement and naivety. I have no idea what celery seed smells like, however. Source of oil for review was a decant from the lovely Fragrance Lush--Thank you! In the vial (decanted): It smells a wee bit like paint thinner. Anyone who has ever painted with oil paints knows the smell that I am referring to here. Not quite turpentine, but definitely oil of evergreen tree. Wet: Cypress for certain and juniper berries make their presence known for the briefest of moments before bergamot declares world domination and beats all other notes into submission. Dare I make the association? I cannot refrain from the dreaded comparison to Pine Sol. Sorry, Lab! It is the fated pairing of evergreen accord with robust citrus notes that brings the ubiquitous floor cleaning solution to mind. I cannot NOT smell Pine Sol here. Don't mistake me, I actually like the smell of Pine Sol, when I am cleaning floors. But I am not sure I want to wear it or have others associate me with smelling like it. This does wring forth MY tears with its sharpness and robust clean smell. Fresh, much! Drying: More bergamot and evergreen. Bergamot amps over all. Starts on a high note and continues on an ascending scale. Juniper and cypress comprise maybe 10% of the blend, and these are not wall flower notes in my experience. This could be my skin chemistry, as I may be a citrus amper, but I think it is just non aged bergamot being a bully. None of the other notes (celery seed, ylang ylang, petitgrain) are detectable to this nose. Drydown: Bergamot dominant for a good period (hours) but this eventually begins to wane and allow the juniper and cypress to get some nose time about 5 hours into the wearing. After the merciless bergamot burns off, the juniper and cypress smell like walking in a forest with those natural plants giving off their aroma. Did I mention that I find juniper lovely beyond compare? In this phase, I just love the forest smell. If you have ever squeezed fresh juniper berries and smelled them in your palm--this is it. Petitgrain and ylang ylang are no shows for me. If there is celery seed accord in here, I am not sure I would recognize it, but there isn't anything like celery, herbs or vegetable juice here either. Final thoughts: I really wanted to love this and I believe these notes to be made of win. I enjoy bergamot flavor and fragrance in tea and as an EO. I did not account for it thrashing the bejeebus out of my beloved cypress and juniper! The late drydown was all juniper and cypress 50/50 dominant and was wonderful for a dedicated wood note aficionado. I expect the bergamot will age to be much less aggressive and sharp. As it is now, I cannot shake the association with the well known floor cleaning product. For the record, this decant arrived about a week ago and I let it settle, but I think it really needs to age a few weeks before I know what it will smell like in the long haul. After extensive reading, I learn that citrus tends to age out or mellow considerably. I love the juniper in this but the wet phase is a bit more than I can take. Sad face for the missing ylang ylang, some florals would soften this up some. Maybe its hiding beneath the bergamot, waiting to pop out when the bully relaxes. I love petitgrain but I don't think I smell it here, unless it could be tag teaming with the bergamot to be the citrus partner of doom. If you loved Jabberwocky, you will probably love this too as it has the citrus plus forest-y evergreen note. I am probably going to get a bottle and age this, as the juniper is worth the tears wringing forth wet stage and I am hoping the citrus will mellow. If not, maybe I can clean my floors with this. Or polish some wood.
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DESIRE BONBON Belgian chocolate with neroli, black patchouli and black musk, gilded by apple, bergamot, blood red rose, teak, and vanilla. Oh man, I get orange chocolate (hi neroli!) with musky black patch, and hints of rose and vanilla. I got a whiff of apple on wet, but that was short lived. This one again puts me in mind o f the Lurid Bonbon. Somehow, all of the elements are oddly discordant to me. It sort of smells like the crime scene for a Valentine's day murder. Strewn chocolates, charred Vday cards, and a woman's perfume all over a bedroom.
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RIDING IN THE PALANQUIN Lacquered wood, mother of pearl, bamboo, silk, ho leaf, and jasmine blossoms. In the imp: Bright and fresh, slightly lemony, with echoes of jasmine and bamboo (I think). It really does convey the impression of lacquer, which I think is awesome. Wet: Straight out, it is still very green and crisp, although the lemon seems to be just about staying in check. Somewhere in the depths, I can catch the animalic undertones of the jasmine. It's very strong at this stage (indeed, it seems to be clearing my cold somewhat...), but luckily it starts calming slowly and getting more multi-dimensional rather than just GREEN. Drying: Jasmine is hiding somewhere inside the thick veil of greenery. It definitely brings to mind green bamboo shoots; there are also undertones of other unidentified grasses somewhere in there. I'm not very good at identifying green notes yet, but I find this mix sophisticated and reminiscent of some classic perfumes. I think at this stage it is also rather unisex. I got some of it smeared on my fingers and here, while on my wrist it is still overwhelmingly green, I am getting a sweeter, polished kind of white flower scent. Dry: This really morphs! This is where the 'mother of pearl' and silk kick in. Somewhere in the drydown, a creaminess appears and suddenly, it's no longer a green lacquer scent but something very smooth, sophisticated and a touch sweet. I'm having trouble identifying this accord - it's cream with something animalic underneath so at first I thought it might perhaps be ambergris. Equally, however, it might be a combination of some tonka over a really earthy, woody base (like damp earth or driftwood - but dry at the same time.. :/). I feel like I should really know what this is, but can't quite put my finger on it. This blend stays quite close to the skin, strangely I think even in the intense opening stage (although this might be my cold). It's unusual in all the best ways - clean, sophisticated, complex and above all surprising. I'm really liking it!
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LAUDANUM BONBON Nicely narcotic: bittersweet chocolate with nutmeg, sassafras, black poppy and myrrh. So, I am sure I probably smelled the GC of this, but don't remember if I liked it. But here goes with this one.... In imp: I don't smell any chocolate....just a harsh blast of sassafras and a hint of myrrh. On Skin: Pretty much stays the same. Sadly, I get zero chocolate from this. I think the other notes are just too powerful and drowns it out. Dry down: Gets a bit sharp....maybe that is the poppy?? Not sure, but to me, since I get no choco out of this, it is just the GC bottle scent.
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VENUS VICTRIX Venus the Victorious Peru balsam and aged patchouli with white sandalwood, red musk, red roses, and wood moss. Venus Victrix is much softer than she sounds—on me this is patchouli and peru balsam right out of the gates, with the red musk and red roses coming forward on the drydown. The wood moss and sandalwood keep things grounded. After about 20 minutes, it's still mostly a resiny and woody blend, but the red roses give it a rosy, lush roundness. From the note list, I thought this might be a strong blend, but it's very soft with little throw. Definitely an intimate scent—the victory here is personal.
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A PECULIAR SPIRIT Tobacco absolute with neroli, oudh, benzoin, and black tea leaf. Black tea leaf = Licorice/anise. I sniffed the decant and knew it would go wrong because it always does. Interesting that black tea doesn't smell a bit like any black tea i've ever smelled. :-/ I had to atleast sniff it though, since the other notes sounded like a nice combo.
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JOYFUL ROMP Plum blossoms and white sandalwood with indigo, tuberose, plum musk, and a drop of vetiver. I have been looking forward to testing this and it arrived today! Disclaimer: i don't like vetiver. I *almost* didn't get a decant because of it but i love plum so very much that i crossed my fingers that it would behave. If there's a way that vetiver could improve a blend, i would say it does here. I can smell it, but the way it supports the plum is exquisite...just lends a smooth bitter/reedy quality to the blend. It smells like the plum musk is infused with vetiver, if that makes sense. After 10 minutes, the tuberose comes through and the vetiver remains and the plum takes a backseat to the tuberose. Dry? Well, to be honest, i am still sniffing my hand in disbelief that i love it so much and it has vetiver and i can smell it and it isn't killing the blend! This is stunning, almost breathtaking but comfortable...and i need a bottle. The drydown of this reminds me so much of the Evening on the Veranda atmo spray...they don't really smell that similar, but the vibe is the same to me...i love this!!!
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A COMMENTARY Ripe apricots and neroli-tinged red musk with bergamot, bitter clove, and vetiver. This is really delicious. The vetiver is sort of like an "earthy " or dirt note, but it's tamed by the red musk. The apricot is sharp in the best way. The clove is there but very tempered also. This is fascinating, very different from anything I have but I really like it. Very lush. Not foody.happy to report the vetivert takes a hike pretty quickly, and the apricot remains with a gentle but present red musk. I love the drydown.
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MARS ALATOR Mars the Huntsman Sweet fig and vetiver. This one is interesting for sure, but is definitely more masculine in my opinion and not wearable for me. The vetiver is very pungent and is the first thing I smell. The fig is barely there, and it's having a very strange effect on the vetiver. I am smelling smoke, woods, figgy wine and roasted meat? I know, that sounds very strange, and it may just be my skin chemistry. My verdict is that I'm interested to see how well it plays with others, but because of the strong vetiver and the roasted meat effect, this guy is going to swaps.
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Coconut, white jasmine, and mint-green moss with honeysuckle, tuberose, and white amber. I honestly didn't pay much attention to this one when the Lupers were posted because I don't like mint notes and thought it would be too out of my element since I mostly wear foody scents, but I am very pleasantly surprised and am so happy I received a decant of this! Firstly, I smell no mint at all (yay!). The Jasmine is the most prominent note, followed by honeysuckle, moss, and the amber. I loveeee the jasmine, it's just gorgeous, fresh and sweet. The honeysuckle and amber create this beautiful soft golden halo around the jasmine, and the moss is very subtle, adding freshness to the blend. I love this and can't wait to get my hands on a full bottle. If you love jasmine, you'll want to invest in a few bottles. Just save some for me.
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VENUS CLOACINA Venus the Purifier A magnificent white gardenia in full bloom, gilded by frankincense, sheer musk, and vanilla orchid. The throw on this oil is phenomenal! When first applied, this was a musky gardenia with a strong, woody, resiny frankincense. At this point, it smelled how I imagine Billie Holiday would smell- feminine and powerful (and too powerful to suit me, alas), with a gardenia tucked behind her ear. Eventually the frankincense backed off and now I'm getting a lush and juicy gardenia-- as if I'd rubbed fresh blossoms all over my wrists. The scent is wafting all around me and is absolutely divine. I love gardenia, and this scent is gardenia perfection.
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MOUNT FUJI REFLECTED IN LAKE MISAICA An oakmoss chypre with black cypress, wild mint, labdanum, pine needles, white sandalwood, and white cedar. I'm reviewing Mount Fuji Reflected in Lake Misaica because I'm a little worried that it will be lost in the shuffle amongst the other Shungas this year, and I think it deserves a shoutout. This blend is like the palate cleanser to all the sweets and florals in the Lupercalia release. The best way I can describe this is green, as the most prominent notes when wet are oakmoss, black cypress, mint, and pine. The labdanum (which smells a bit like green-brown ambergris here), white sandalwood, and white cedar anchor this blend and come forward on the drydown. Wet, this is a cavalcade of mouthy greens, a little tingly due to the mint and the camphorous spangle of evergreens. As it dries, the oakmoss pushes forward like a marathoner. Fully dry, this is oakmoss chypre with white sandalwood and white cedar—pale woods and oakmoss. The mint and cedar do not amp on me in the slightest—the mint burns off early and the cedar is held in check by the oakmoss. If you love oakmoss...definitely try this one! It's like the cologne version of walking through the woods in early, early spring, when a cold snap is still possible and the evergreens are still bleating their song of survival over the trepidatious spring herbals. I'm going to put this bottle with my husband's collection, and convince him to wear it on our next evening out...and wear it myself, from time to time.
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VENUS ERYCINA Venus of the Prostitutes Honeysuckle absolute with white gardenia, red patchouli, red amber, and crushed diamond accord. The Lab's honeysuckle note smells just like the real thing to me. It's really pretty, but it's a sweet flower and I have to be in the right mood for it. This morning I was! Wet, Venus Erycina is primarily honeysuckle on me with gardenia making it even richer and sweeter. I can smell the red patchouli and red amber bringing the florals a bit to heel, and there's something slightly sparkly or effervescent that I imagine to be the crushed diamond accord. Dry, this remains a heady, broadcasting floral with a 'red bottom' and a diamond crown. I can see myself wearing this in the summer, and it pairs beautifully with Chorion hair gloss.
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LURID BONBON Dark chocolate dotted by cacao nibs, laced with black currant, Bulgarian lavender, white musk, and thick resins. Terry Pratchett invented a color called octarine, described as "alive and glowing and vibrant, and incidentally a kind of greenish purple." So, if this analogy helps at all, Lurid Bonbon smells like octarine dark chocolate to my nose. Chocolate itself is warm and fuzzy and matte, while lavender and currant and white musk are sharp and scintillating, so you would logically expect this combination to fight itself, but it doesn't at all. The resins marry the two poles beautifully. The chocolate component is dark, and has the same feel as the chocolate in Chocolate Stout Cupcake, but where that was a brutal chemistry mishap, Lurid Bonbon was a bottle purchase after I skin-tested at Will Call. This reads as a musk/resin perfume with a chocolate haze, rather than a foody-forward chocolate blend, though YMMV. Very sexy and adult, with tons of throw. One of the very few chocolate BPALs that succeeds against my weird chemistry.
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EMBALMING FLUID BONBON Chocolate and embalming fluid: perhaps an acquired taste? This reminds me very much of a Chaos I have, and treasure. Pretty much what it says on the tin--chocolate embalming fluid. The chocolate is rich and fudgey, like a very rich chocolate brownie. Combined with embalming fluid, it reminds me of candied citrus dipped in chocolate. The chocolate is quite strong at first, fading into the background as it dries. Throw is medium to light. Very much a winner in my book, I can't stop huffing my wrists!
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Sensual, robust, and silken: voluptuous red rose bursting with lascivious red wine and sultry dragons blood resin. In the bottle this smells almost exactly like the GC Blood Rose...there is more wine here. I will update this review as soon as i can skin test. It smells beautiful so far! ETA: i slathered this all over and, while i love it, my guy hates it. I guess there is no middle ground here! Deliciously wicked roses and wine. Love it.
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Orange blossom and vanilla orchid with frankincense, rockrose, golden sandalwood, gilded cedar, and yellow lily. Short review of first impressions: in bottle: orange blossom and cedar on skin: cedar. Maybe a hint of sandalwood and frankincense Dry on skin: cedar, lily, sandalwood and frankincense, orange blossom in that order from strongest to lightest. I love cedar but i think this blend would have been perfect without it...seems to be out of place and needily screaming for attention. :-/ i am hoping it will age out a bit...will do a full after shower moisturizer test tomorrow. :-) ETA: this is beautiful as a moisturizer and about as spring-like as it gets! The cedar is a bit more subdued now...its all about the lily, sandalwood and orange blossom. I layered Black Lily over this two days ago and it was beautiful. Honestly i am surprised there isn't more love!
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A feral beauty. I saw some requests for reviews of this one, so I will give it a shot. I'm not really familiar with red patchouli, but it seems to be the kind of patch that reminds me that it's in the mint family. Not that it's minty, but it's definitely not "hippy/headshop" patch. Not that I have anything against that sort, I like it. I'm not getting a lot of fig, but I think what I am getting is green fig, not really ripe. OK, overall impression is that it's fizzy somehow. Not quite cola, but similar Effervescent and a little spicy. A little bit earthy and less fizzy after a while. "Feral" is not the first adjective that comes to my mind. I'm liking it. It's not that strong but I have dry hair and there is pretty much no humidity in the atmosphere here right now so no surprise. YMMV.
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MINAMOTO NO YORIMASA AND THE LOTUS FLOWER Lotus root, lotus petals, and blue lotus absolute with frankincense, black amber, and blackcurrant. I love me some Lotus so a scent with the first three notes listed as Lotus was a no-brainer. Doesn't really morph from wet to dry but there were a few moments where this scent threatened to go in the direction of Lotus scented soap. Thankfully, it pulled away from going in that direction. So, yes, the star is Lotus. Quiet, serene Lotus with a very, very light dose of Frank and Amber supporting it. Currant is my favorite of the Lab's fruit notes and it's perfect in Minamoto. It lends some fruity sweetness. It's not fruit candy but candy-ish in the sense that I smell the fruit and the candy aspects together. Also, this scent oscillates between powdery and slightly creamy. Light, close to the skin, feminine.
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MARS RIGONEMETIS Mars of the Sacred Grove Dark musk entwined with ivy, black pine, birch tar, cypress, black cedar, and black pepper. This one's a morpher. Wet: Starts out smelling like Rubber and Camphor. But, It quickly starts mellowing out during the dry down. Dry: I'm getting the musk, pine, tar, cedar and a touch of pepper. Smells like dark woods in the distance with a kick of spice. What really surprises me is the role Ivy plays. Not because its the dominant note but because it elevates this blend from dark and brooding to dark and contemplative. My mind is associating this scent with a dark green color. A lovely scent that is unisex and stays close to the skin.
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Osmanthus, linden, tuberose, carnation, ylang ylang, and lemon tree blossoms with Himalayan cedar and a drop of tobacco absolute. This is so beautiful. All flowers present and blended seamlessly...perfect for spring! I need another bottle. This reminds me of the Primavera atmo spray from a few years ago, which i also love. Bravo.
