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Showing results for tags 'Lupercalia 2012'.
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The quarrel of the sparrow in the eaves, The full round moon and the star-laden sky, And the loud song of the ever-singing leaves, Had hid away earth’s old and weary cry. And then you came with those red mournful lips, And with you came the whole of the world’s tears, And all the sorrows of her labouring ships, And all the burden of her myriad years. And now the sparrows warring in the eaves, The curd-pale moon, the white stars in the sky, And the loud chaunting of the unquiet leaves, Are shaken with earth’s old and weary cry. - William Butler Yeats Stargazer lily, white musk, white gardenia, white rose, stephanotis, delphinium, orris root, white sandalwood, bergamot, and magnolia. My first first review, and for one of my favorite poets!! I hope I can do Yeats and the Lab some justice here. In the bottle: The stephanotis is the most prominent note. It's reminiscent of the "white" Ars Moriendi blends like Eternal and The Ghost, and even Regan to a lesser extent, without the beautiful orchid vanille. Wet: The other florals come out to play, especially the lily and the gardenia. The lily is making this a little sharp, but that eases after a few minutes. I can just barely detect the delphinium in the background, but it's enough to give the blend a bit of a blue tinge while still remaining a very white scent. Dry: My skin really loves white florals, so this dries down to a soft, slightly dusty (probably the orris) white bouquet with a hint of sandalwood to keep it three-dimensional. The Sorrow of Love truly is aptly named. It's a chilly funereal bouquet spotted with tears. If you like white florals, this is a must-try. For me, it's a keeper!
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Plum honey, passion fruit, pomegranate, benzoin, French lavender, blonde tobacco, black currant, vanilla bean, lemon balm, Tunisian opium, violet sugar, clove, and white grapefruit. This is a jumble of scents which matches the Shunga perfectly. Slightly sweet and juicy fruits with a hint of spice and smokiness. This wafts off my skin giving an uplifting and energetic mood. Definitely unisex in the best possible way. I read this as a casual, daytime scent.
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South Indian sandalwood, amber-encrusted wood, white grains, massoia bark, and hops. This smells so delicious, almost familiar, foody even. It is the grains and hops that is making it seem foody but not bread like. The sandalwood and amber-encrusted wood blend effortlessly together with the deep massoia bark and turn this into deep, rich, almost sweet scent. It almost smells familiar, but I just can't place it, like honey crackers, or caramel corn. The drydown is not heavy at all, but light sweet sandalwood. This lasts a long time and people who like foody scents will really enjoy it.
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Linen, tobacco flower, white sandalwood, and dragon's blood resin. I love Beth's dragon blood blends and that's one of the reasons why I was so interested in this and purchased it unsniffed. For those of you who like dragon's blood-you will be happy, for those of you who don't-you will be happy too. This is dragon's blood resin which is much, much lighter and very wearable. It is almost an ambery, musky scent and when combined with the sandalwood gives off a remarkably gorgeous woody note. The linen and floral are light on me but do combine to tone down the dragon's blood. This is heavier than some of the other Lupercalia's I have reviewed this year but still with trying. Not at all too heavy or cloying.
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My sweetest Lesbia, let us live and love, And though the sager sort our deeds reprove, Let us not weigh them. Heaven’s great lamps do dive Into their west, and straight again revive. But, soon as once set our little light, Then must we sleep one ever-during night. If all would lead their lives in love like me, Then bloody swords and armor should not be; No drum or trumpet peaceful sleeps should move, Unless alarm came from the camp of Love: But fools do live and waste their little light, And seek with pain their ever-during night. When timely death my life and fortune ends, Let not my hearse be vext with mourning friends, But let all lovers rich in triumph come And with sweet pastimes grace my happy tomb: And, Lesbia, close up thou my little light, And crown with love my ever-during night. - Caius Valerius Catullus Osmanthus, hay absolute, ambergris accord, catnip, and Egyptian musk. This is a beautifully soft subtle fragrance that is light and refreshing. It is not heavy or overpowering in the least. Osmanthus is a white flower originally from China and is a traditional symbol of Love and Romance, True Love and Faithfulness. This is a pure fragrance with light musk and a soft woody note ( from the ambergris accord) that floats and swirls and grounds the sweetness of the Osmanthus. On the drydown I do get a little whiff of grassy tones, but it is way in the background on me. It is like that gorgeous smell in a meadow after a soft rain. My Sweet Lesbia is beguiling and one of those scents that people will stop you and ask what you are wearing.
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Choice soul, in whom, as in a glass, we see, Mirrored in thy pure form and delicate, What beauties heaven and nature can create, The paragon of all their works to be! Fair soul, in whom love, pity, piety, Have found a home, as from thy outward state We clearly read, and are so rare and great That they adorn none other like to thee! Love takes me captive; beauty binds my soul; Pity and mercy with their gentle eyes Wake in my heart a hope that cannot cheat. What law, what destiny, what fell control, What cruelty, or late or soon, denies That death should spare perfection so complete? - Michelangelo Buonarroti An opulent, bittersweet Renaissance-inspired fragrance: Hungary water, parma violets, and roseated oil. Totally not what I was expecting! The overall effect is a very herbal, slightly floral (but mostly green, herby herbs) aroma. The violet is not strong at all, but does lend a subtle powderiness to the overall blend. Goes on sharp, with a strong almost oregano-like note, with lavender, reminds me of... herbes de Provence? Drydown is again herbal, without much in terms of flowers or petals. From wikipedia: "The oldest surviving recipes call for distilling fresh rosemary (and possibly thyme) with strong brandy, while later formulations contain lavender, mint, sage, marjoram, costus, orange blossom and lemon." Oh, no wonder! Tons of rosemary here. This reminds me of the now discontinued LUSH 13 Soap: Unlucky for Dirt.
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Chinese peach, bergamot, cranberry, red vegetal musk, carnation, white coconut, and Nepalese amber. I purchased this because I wanted a carnation scent. Unfortunately, I can't detect the carnation in here at all. The fruits are all one jumble like a fruit drink, not unpleasant at all, but indistinguishable from each other. The musk and bergamot comes in waves which is nice and the amber finally kicks in after half an hour or so. I don't know what the red vegetal musk is made up of but it works. There is an earthiness to this blend that is warm and pleasant. The drydown is very lovely and there is a soft spiciness that finally appears that is worth waiting for. I believe this is one that will be better with some aging.
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Fig, pink grapefruit, Egyptian white musk, ambergris accord, muguet, ylang ylang, Hawaiian white ginger, jonquil, and khus. My first thought when I first applied and smelled this on my wrist was how light and fresh it was. It opens up with light citrus followed up with skin musk and light floral. It is fresh and tangy, perhaps the ginger is lending it the lightness it needs here. It seems like there are many ingredients listed so it would be a heavy scent, but it isn't. There is a juicy sweetness from the fig but there is not heavy here, just the presence of it. The spiciness is minimal with the ginger giving it the initial burst of mild peppery sweetness and then becoming mild and light, but not overly sweet. Drydown is gingery and golden pale spice but very light in an understated way. It is so perfect for Spring and Summer.
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Himalayan cedar, rum absolute, bay leaf, teakwood, orange peel, wooly thyme, and tobacco absolute. The opening on Kagema is stunning and everything I had hoped for: deep wood notes from the teakwood, and the gorgeous scent of tobacco absolute. There is also a very faint underlying spicy note that I find extremely appealing. The Himalayan cedar is thankfully light and not overpowering since that note alone would have killed this for me. I amp cedar above all other notes. The scrumptious rum absolute swirls around to mix together with the orange peel and doesn't disappoint to conjure up romantic visions of naked bodies and sweaty nights. This is a wonderfully deep, dark, sexy scent that will age spectacularly. A must try for all.
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King mandarin, tuberose, white sandalwood, white moss, yerba mate, tangerine, and styrax. I get strong mandarin and tuberose from this. It's very reminiscent of Night Gaunt, but the citrus definitely has that mandarin "edge," which reads to my nose like a hint of lime. It's greener and sharper than the citrus in Night Gaunt, and it lasts longer. Unlike so many ephemeral citrus blends, this does seem to hold on to that tang for an hour or more, with the tuberose coming forward and holding down the fort. Usually I amp wood like crazy, but I can't detect any sandalwood in this. I think I get a hint of the resinous styrax (benzoin), and the moss supports that green edge to the mandarin. This is very pretty, and could be a good option if you like citrus and want it to stick around a bit, as long as you like tuberose too. Sadly for me, something in it gives me a sore throat, so I think I'm going to have to give this one up, and live with re-applying my Night Gaunt and Phantasm.
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Wild mushrooms, hay absolute, ginger root, hiba wood, and ginseng. I saw Hay and Wild Mushrooms in the notes and I had to have this oil. My dial up internet made it very difficult to see the art on which this was based, and when I got my bottle I had a laugh! What a picture! This starts off VERY heavy on the hiba wood and a cloying ginger (not sweet cloying but heavy) with a nice bit of the dirty ginseng underneath giving it a golden vibe. I never smell mushrooms and I was looking for them...I'm not disappointed because this is quite a lovely scent in it's own unique way. About an hour on, this has stopped morphing on my skin and it is now the lightest, golden hay scent with a touch of ginger and grounded by the ginseng and wood. Gathering Wild Mushrooms sticks around for at least 4 hours. I recoiled when I smelled it in the bottle last night...but it's actually quite nice on my skin after the first 15 minutes. I love that dirty ginseng smell...it pairs really nicely with the hay. Wild mushrooms, hay absolute, ginger root, hiba wood, and ginseng So, I get all of the notes except for the mushrooms...but I get the vibe. 8/10 because it's beautiful and unique, but I can tell it will be difficult to wear - even for an earthy "hippie" type like me. I hope that made sense. ETA: This does not smell similar to Hay Moon at all IMHO.
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Snow-dusted cherry blossom, passion flower, peach musk, and tuberose. wet and in bottle- fir/evergreenish scent with some vague florals waaaay in the background. drydown- tree and florals start to mix. Can pick out softness I get from cherry blossoms, but the others mix together with the musk. It's a bit tree-y for my liking, although the drydown wasn't bad. I'll let it age and see how it goes!
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Blackened amber, cardamom, cumin, labdanum, tobacco tar, patchouli, and raw honey. Ecstatic Revelry is such a curious blend. I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I scanned the list of ingredients and figured, well, ding dong. Everything there is something that smells wonderful on me. Hooray, I thought--this will be the Sexiest Best Thing Ever! Oh, the follies of youth. I don't know what ingredient it is, but something in this--I suspect the tobacco tar, but I am honestly not sure, takes this odd, mentholated cast on my skin, so that I smell a bit like Vicks Vapo Rub. I figured, maybe it's a fluke. Waited a day, gave it a second try. After hours, and hours, it settles down into something where I can smell the amber, and the labdanum, and a trace of something smokey--like the smoke of a fireplace, not tobacco smoke. It's actually quite pretty at this point--close to the Sexiest Best Thing Ever! I'd figured I was going to get. But there's still a trace of the weird acridity that reminded me of Vicks, and I doubt I'd wait the hours it took for it to get to this point, either. I might try a scent locket, or an oil burner; I smell a hint of something like the menthol sort of scent in the bottle, but not much. Either way, though, I'm pretty bummed about how this one turned out, especially now that I've smelled what it turns into after 4 hours or so. I'm jealous of those of you who can wear it. Now excuse me, while I go weep softly to myself.
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All things uncomely and broken, all things worn-out and old, The cry of a child by the roadway, the creak of a lumbering cart, The heavy steps of the ploughman, splashing the wintry mould, Are wronging your image that blossoms a rose in the deeps of my heart. The wrong of unshapely things is a wrong too great to be told; I hunger to build them anew and sit on a green knoll apart, With the earth and the sky and the water, remade, like a casket of gold For my dreams of your image that blossoms a rose in the deeps of my heart. - William Butler Yeats Golden amber, red rose, frankincense, Egyptian musk, galbanum, and immortelle. The Rose in the Deeps of his Heart is the clear winner among the bottles I ordered unsniffed from the Lupers. In the bottle, it's rose, and ... planty--the sort of sharp, dark and vegetal scent that I tend to associate with vetiver, and which almost always turns very unpleasant on me. It must, I think, be the galbanum, green, and bitter. But, oh! In the dry down, the rose comes out. For a bit, it smells predominately rose, a bit like the rose in Rose Red, but lighter. More than anything, it reminds me of rosewater: it's somehow quieter, more unassuming. It settles, eventually, to a a lovely balance of the rose and warm, clean skin--amber, I think, and perhaps the musk. There's something a bit creamy and a touch sweet about it. I've often found that I amp musk, but in this case, it stays a background player, and I have to put my nose to my wrist to really pick up much of it.
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White sandalwood, beeswax, clary sage, olibanum, opoponax, violet leaf, and oudh. Wet on my skin, it smells like light clean sandalwood with an underlying floral. It is very uplifting and almost pure smelling. This has a lot of balance because it doesn't veer towards too much wood or too much floral. There is a very light hint of sweetness and almost a very vague creamy base which I suspect is from the beeswax. This doesn't feel too clingy rather it's like a EDT. It wafts hints of something, simple and pretty, every time I move my arm. As it dries down, I notice more of the wood in that it has more depth and softness. Even with these deeper wood notes showing up now, it still remains very fresh in some way, like you could see through it. This is a good anyday scent. I can imagine wearing this during an interview or around a friend who hates scents. Overall, a beautifully optimistic well rounded scent.
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The face of all the world is changed, I think, Since first I heard the footsteps of thy soul Move still, oh, still, beside me, as they stole Betwixt me and the dreadful outer brink Of obvious death, where I, who thought to sink, Was caught up into love, and taught the whole Of life in a new rhythm. The cup of dole God gave for baptism, I am fain to drink, And praise its sweetness, Sweet, with thee anear. The names of country, heaven, are changed away For where thou art or shalt be, there or here; And this …this lute and song…loved yesterday, (The singing angels know) are only dear Because thy name moves right in what they say. - Elizabeth Barrett Browning Absinthe accord, opoponax, green cardamom, olibanum, honey, prickly juniper, and rockrose. This scent is gorgeous and has a presence to it. It is a strong scent but it is not heavy at all. I smell a woodiness and sweetness to it that goes well with my skin chemistry. The wood is mild and not overly masculine. I was somewhat leery of this fragrance because of the Absinthe but it only adds to the brightness of this blend and prevents it from being to much of a skin scent. The honey is beautiful, and is not powdery, and adds some golden sweetness. There is a very mild spiciness and the dry down is beautiful and smooth. I didn't expect this to smell as wonderful as it does, especially as there is a floral in here. But this really stands out to me as something really unique that I could wear often.
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Peony blossoms and vanilla orchid. We used to grow these huge fluffy peonies out back when I was a kid so this will always have some nostalgic connection for me. I remember sticking my nose in them and just inhaling, and the peony note here reminds me of just that: an airy yet sweet and unmistakably pink floral, a "pink" scent in the way that sweet pea and tea rose smell "pink" but a different type of pink fragrance than either. I hope I am making some semblance of sense so far. Now I cannot imagine this delicate scent being blended with a heavy buttery vanilla, but vanilla orchid is its perfect match. It adds that creamy sensual sweetness that I recognize from scents like Moonshine and Mist and Opuhi. The more it dries down, the more the vanilla orchid emerges to entwine with the peony into one harmonious creamy pink whole, thus the more I keep falling for it, right to my knees like that lady in the pink kimono.
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Rum, frankincense, leather accord, bourbon vanilla, champaca flower, and ambrette seed. This is an interesting scent. In the bottle, and first on the skin, I would have sworn that this had some manner of white floral in it, reminiscent of magnolia or gardenia or something. Those are florals that don't generally work on my skin, and I was a bit apprehensive. Perhaps this is what champaca flower smells like? I sort of imagined something a bit...grittier, I suppose. After an hour or two, however, it settles into a musky sort of scent--a hint of the vanilla, a hint, still, of the floral, and the leather and frankincense. It's soft, and a bit sexy, but with a bit of sweetness from that floral still hovering around. Now, hours after first application, it has settled into something more of a second-skin sort of scent; I can barely detect it when I put my nose to my wrist, though it had a fair bit of throw earlier, so that I caught whiffs of it from my wrist as the afternoon went on. In the end...I like this, the dry-down is lovely. But the initial hit of floral scent in the wet phase might be a bit much for me, I fear.
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Honey, leather, tobacco, and myrrh. This is a nicely balanced mix of all the notes listed. At first I get more honey and leather/tobacco. Then the myrrh comes in and veils it all in spice. Still, after 30 minutes I can pick out the other notes. The tobacco note is well behaved in this, at least on me. I'll have to wear it a few times to see if it's a keeper. I think it might age really well.
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Mother of memories, mistress of mistresses, O thou, my pleasure, thou, all my desire, Thou shalt recall the beauty of caresses, The charm of evenings by the gentle fire, Mother of memories, mistress of mistresses! The eves illumined by the burning coal, The balcony where veiled rose-vapour clings— How soft your breast was then, how sweet your soul! Ah, and we said imperishable things, Those eves illumined by the burning coal. Lovely the suns were in those twilights warm, And space profound, and strong life’s pulsing flood, In bending o’er you, queen of every charm, I thought I breathed the perfume in your blood. The suns were beauteous in those twilights warm. The film of night flowed round and over us, And my eyes in the dark did your eyes meet; I drank your breath, ah! sweet and poisonous, And in my hands fraternal slept your feet— Night, like a film, flowed round and over us. I can recall those happy days forgot, And see, with head bowed on your knees, my past. Your languid beauties now would move me not Did not your gentle heart and body cast The old spell of those happy days forgot. Can vows and perfumes, kisses infinite, Be reborn from the gulf we cannot sound; As rise to heaven suns once again made bright After being plunged in deep seas and profound? Ah, vows and perfumes, kisses infinite! - Charles Baudelauire Voluptuous darkness: Bourbon vetiver, red patchouli, honey, helichrysum, and black rose. I bought this because of the reviews in the west coast will call thread. I had no idea what this would smell like, but I kept reading things about wood notes and they are some of my favorites, so I took a chance. The rose is deep, but it is not the starring player here. The dusty wood notes are dominant and when I look at the notes in the description, I'm not sure what is combining to form this. I suspect that it might be the helichrysum and the vetiver. I am not really smelling the red patchouli in this and the honey is helping to sweeten the rose which stays quietly in the background. This is very pretty and it is like smelling the dusty wood balcony with the rose in the garden beneath.
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Indonesian patchouli, tonka bean, red musk, natural hedoine accord, black opium, cassis, styrax, costus, oakmoss, frankincense, and kief accord. in the bottle: cinnamon, spicy! wet on my skin: ungh...all cinnamon, all the time. a little dusty, musky undertone to it, but mostly: lots 'o cinnamon. dry on my skin: wow, i guess my skin has just decided to amp the hell out of the cassis, because i really can't smell anything besides cinnamon. it's a vaguely sexy cinnamon, and my boyfriend really likes it, but it's a bit overwhelming to think about wearing it all day. i am going to give it a few days to recover from shipping and try it again to see if it calms down a little bit.
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L'ESSENCE DE LA FOLIE Pink pepper, black pepper, clove, myrrh, dark chocolate, labdanum, and Daemonorops draco. L'Essence de la Folie is a surprising mix of notes. It's a little lighter than I would have expected, and I detect almost no dark resin or chocolate at all (I checked to make sure there wasn't a cocoa sludge on the bottom of the bottle failing to get incorporated, as sometimes happens-- there's not). It's actually like... spiced bubblegum. I think the pink pepper, clove (which is very mild) and Daemonorops are playing the largest roles in this impression I'm getting. I know that some people's skin/nose chemistry interprets dragon's blood resin as bubblegum, but I've tried a hell of a lot of BPAL dragon's blood scents and have never once thought it smelled like bubblegum before... maybe it's something to do with a difference between the Dracaena draco and Daemonorops draco varieties? Anyway, this isn't a bad turn of events. The longer it dries, the more a little wisp of myrrh smoke comes out as well, softening things and making for a neat, quirky, well-blended scent. I like it.
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A big bud of moon hangs out of the twilight, Star-spiders spinning their thread Hang high suspended, withouten respite Watching us overhead. Come then under the trees, where the leaf-cloths Curtain us in so dark That here we’re safe from even the ermin-moth’s Flitting remark. Here in this swarthy, secret tent, Where black boughs flap the ground, You shall draw the thorn from my discontent, Surgeon me sound. This rare, rich night! For in here Under the yew-tree tent The darkness is loveliest where I could sear You like frankincense into scent. Here not even the stars can spy us, Not even the white moths write With their little pale signs on the wall, to try us And set us affright. Kiss but then the dust from off my lips, But draw the turgid pain From my breast to your bosom, eclipse My soul again. Waste me not, I beg you, waste Not the inner night: Taste, oh taste and let me taste The core of delight. - DH Lawrence The loveliest darkness, the core of delight: Moroccan black musk, white tea leaf, Indonesian black sandalwood, frankincense, honeycomb, jonquil, and clove. in the bottle: musk and clove, yet this somehow feels MUCH lighter than other scents with those notes. kind of odd. wet on my skin: baby powder. all baby powder. dry on my skin: no change, just baby powder. i had someone else confirm that it wasn't just my nose...damn my skin chemistry! i am so sad...based on the notes this should be amazing on me. perhaps it's the honey/clove combination?
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She was only half-dressed And equally bare trees tossed Their few leaves against the window pane Playfully and with reckless abandon. Sprawling half naked in my desk chair, Hands pressed modestly against her pale breasts, She tapped small, delicate feet on the floor Betraying sweet anticipation. Her body was the colour of wax, and I watched As an eager little ray of light Fluttered across her laughing lips, Across her peeking breast, like an insect on the rose-bush. I knelt and kissed her little ankles. She laughed softly and produced A perfect string of clear trills, A delightful crystal laugh. Her delicate feet disappeared Underneath her: “Stop! You’re so naughty!” Yet the first act of daring permitted, She pretended to punish me only with a laugh! I rose and kissed her eyelids softly. They trembled beneath my lips, poor things: And she tossed her head back, eyes shining… “You’re not trying to take advantage of me…are you? “If you are, darling, you know I’ll have to–” But I silenced the protest, dipping my mouth to her breast, Which caused an explosion of ringing laughter And she opened herself willingly… She was only half-dressed And equally bare trees tossed Their few leaves against the window pane Playfully and with reckless abandon. - Arthur Rimbaud Candied apricot and orange blossom honey with grandiflorum jasmine, orris C02, tonka, patchouli, quince, and skin musk. Ooh, yay! First review! I may have to come back to edit this later, because this one seems like it could be changeable. In the bottle, it's deceptively mild. Of course, I love jasmine, most particularly the grandiflorum variety, so this was a must for me, despite the patchouli note which is iffy at best. here, the jasmine is bright and sunny, blending nicely with the apricot/honey for a candied flowers effect. It's sweet and almost simple- I say almost because I really get none of the orris, quince, or tonka- but not quite because there's something a little dark, a little mysterious under the flowers and candy. The skin musk adds a soft quality, and the patchouli does not clobber me, but rather just grounds the blend. Like! I do wish it were a little more potent on the jasmine, but others who hate jasmine might easily disagree. Jasmine haters, I'm not sure how to warn y'all- the candy might be enough to drown out the other stuff for a nice fruity effect. There is something in it not unlike Peitho, but interestingly enough what this calls to mind on me is a more natural-scented Gucci's Guilty. Nice for springtime! There is indeed something in this that captures the innocence of a first encounter. Keeping the Bottle!
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Body, remember not only how much you were loved, not only the beds on which you lay, but also those desires for you that glowed plainly in the eyes, and trembled in the voiceand some chance obstacle made futile. Now that all of them belong to the past, it almost seems as if you had yielded to those desireshow they glowed, remember, in the eyes gazing at you; how they trembled in the voice, for you, remember, body. - Constantine Cavafy translated by Rae Dalven Profoundly sensual. The echo of caresses: raw black coconut, ambergris accord, ambrette seed, champaca flower, and sugar cane. Profoundly sensual indeed. This is my favorite of the Lupers so far. Body, Remember starts out sweet and earthy, then suddenly it becomes heavy on the coconut, followed by a rush of champaca. After several minutes, everything settles into a perfect musky balance that stays close to my skin with no single dominating note. It's stunning.
