The Phoenix, Having Burst Her Shell

[gloame]

A perfume of freedom, regeneration, and renewal: bitter orange and tangerine with warm patchouli, tobacco absolute, glittering amber, and white musk.

 

Just now giving this a try and unfortunately it didn't stand the test of time. There's not much here now except some orangey playdough. Bummer! I bet this was lovely when it was fresh!

 

Where I'd wear this: Who knows!

[Lucchesa]

The Phoenix, Having Burst Her Shell has been on my wishlist for a long time and I'm finally getting a chance to try it. The only problematic note here for me is white musk, and it seems to be very subdued in this blend. I'm getting primarily amber, bittersweet citrus and patchouli. It's not a big hippie patch; more of a structural patchouli, a scaffold for the amber and oranges. (This not a sweet, juicy blend if that's what you look for in citrus.) I'm not really getting any tobacco to speak of, but it might be contributing to the overall dry warmth of this blend. Very lovely.

[Juushika]

In vial: Bright orange, almost an orange peel, with something darker hiding behind.

 

On me: Wet, this sings--a bright, almost sharp citrus, a deeper and warmer patchouli, and an amber base--pungent, glowing, beautiful. Dry, the citrus loses some of that freshness. It's a patchouli base, an almost-traditional patch/amber/musk combo which is solid and bodied but not overpowering. Lucchesa is spot-on in calling it "a structural patchouli, a scaffold for the amber and oranges." Citrus is still the star, not juicy or sweet but dry, golden, warm, bright. Tobacco is a hint of darkness that flatters the citrus beautifully.

 

Verdict: One of the better citrus blends I've tried, particularly citrus/amber blends--I think because amber isn't the predominate base note; patchouli is, and it's a better base, less samey in texture and tone, holding up to the citrus and balancing it with something darker and richer. This is beautiful, a Klimt-esque dark/bright combo which has depth but also a glowing vivid heart. Part of me wishes the tobacco were a little stronger, or for a contrasting spice like pepper, to flatter the bright citrus even more.

[torischroeder9]

In the bottle: Tangerine and neroli come to the forefront, with some grounding notes -- likely patchouli and amber -- backing them. 

 

On my skin:

 

Wet, it's neroli on top with sweeter tangerine detectable underneath. As it dries, the patchouli comes out, adding some grit and grounding to the scent. There's not much morphing after this phase.

 

It's a very pleasant scent, but I'm not sure how wowed I am by it. That said, the patchouli does help the citrus to stick around, which is a rarity on me.