VetchVesper

This one smells cool and resinous to me at first, then the fir notes start to emerge, giving me the impression of a winter forest under starlight. 

I get the amber, the cool musk, the fir notes, and perhaps the balm melissa?  There's a lemony edge and something tinging on minty in the blend. The olive blossom emerges later in the dry down. I don't get much cedar, a problematic note for me, or champaca. 

It's a pretty and unusual blend to be sure, a mix of serene forest and airy incense. 

I splurged on a few Etsy atmos, and my naughtiness has been rewarded.  This is lovely.  It's a murky mint that reminds me a little bit of Cathode.  The other notes are not obvious, but they're there, lurking in the background to darken the fragrance and give it a subtle nuance of rotting, damp wood.  Still, this manages to be comforting and dips no toes (or tentacles) into aquatic territory.  This is a calm, mossy mint vs. sweet or bracing mint.  It will be very nice for when I'm trying to write, especially when my subject matter turns Antediluvian.   

Huh.  The cumin note in this mixes with a smooth, woody patchouli and almost gives me a cedar effect -- except a cedar that actually works for my chemistry.  It's sort of a raspy warm wood.  The almond smells very cherryish.  I'm not getting much frankincense or labdanum, but that's ok.  Overall, this is pretty, but a lot lighter than I was expecting with all those rich notes... 

Lol.  Ok.  Wait.  I just needed to give it a very good shake.    Now I'm getting the rich earthiness everyone else mentioned, along with a bracing hit of cumin, which I am aaaall about.  A good reminder that some of things bottles need a bit more than gentle rolling.  Very nice fragrance and the cumin makes it distinctive from my other patchy blends.  Yay!

Cool, spiced wood with a hint of vanilla.  It reminds me of a cooler, lighter, less syrupy version of Antikytherian Mechanism.  There's a hint of spice, I'm guessing from the cardamom, which is probably also lending to the overall cool vibes of what would otherwise be a bunch of warm notes.  As it start to dry down, Mahogany Hall starts to smell mossier and a little powdery.  The paneling and floorboards of this venerable establishment have known the damp caress of southern floods, and traces of mildew still cling to its old, dark heart.  This is posh, decadent in all senses of the word, and vaguely masculine, but I will happily squirt it all over my female domicile.  I'm glad they put it up on Etsy.

I like smoky scents.  I like red musk and all its cousins.  That's said, I don't like Ezekiel 16:49.  The strongest note I get is one I associate with a tobacco note I don't care for.   (I like most tobacco notes.)  Maybe it's actually an ash note?  Anywho, this smells like Hearth and Snaky Hair'd Moirai, so if you like those, give this a whirl.  The blood musk is there, ala Bloodlust,  but it's behind the ill favored tobacco.  Not for me.  

This reminds me a tad bit of Shoggoth at first.  It's bright, fresh, a bit floral, a bit citrusy, sort of chaotic, and very Spring.  I think the shared coconut note is also adding to a similar vibe.  I get more of a sugary lemon blossom than orange blossom from After the Winter, at least at first.  I can smell the grass and the coconut, but for me, they are backup notes and this stays primarily a bright sugary floral.  I wouldn't call it green or particularly coconutty.  Maybe tropical.  

After a bit of dry down the "lemon blossom" gains a bit of a bite and smells more distinctly like neroli.  Another one this reminds me a bit of is Snow Bear, from the Lilliths a few years ago.  Though the notes are different, it's in the same scent family.  It's pretty and well suited to those who like youthful, bright Spring florals.  I'm not sure how much I would wear it though, so I'll probably pass my decant along.  So far, this is the fragrance that has worked best for me in this release.  

ETA - Wanted to add, if you enjoyed Smug Yale, I think the base in this is similar.  The florals take center stage though.

This is one of BPAL's ecclesiastical blends, like Jacob's Ladder or Ecclesiastiphobia. It's dry, powdery resins that smell a tad dingey to my nose, but if you like church incense blends, it's worth a try. 

When I first got this, I found the bergamot clashed unpleasantly with the resins. Aging's improved things, with the bergamot adding a touch of bitter green to the whole. Still not really digging it though. 

Sharp and crisp at first. The tea and cucumber is my first impression. Possibly the lettuce, but I'm not super familiar with the note. This smells like cucumber water tastes, fresh, watery, green, and not sweet. 

In the bathwater and on my skin later, the cherry blossom shows up, softening the astringent edges of the fragrance. 

This is cleanly feminine, calming, reminiscent of the spa. It's definitely cucumbery up front, but I mostly cherry blossom out of the bath. 

Mouse Circus is primarily kettle corn on my skin. There's a hint of pink sugar, but it's easy to miss. After half an hour or so, the scent grows warmer, perhaps the wood, perhaps furry musk. It's just a touch of complexity to what is still, very much, kettle corn. It's a very cute scent. 

It lasts well on me. I can still smell it in the morning if I wore it the previous night. 

My bottle, I bought new in 2015, and I don't detect a noticeable difference in 2020, so it seems like it will at least keep that long if stored well. I never got much cotton candy though. It's always been sugary, salty popcorn with maybe a hint of vanilla. 

Wanted to review this one since there were several very pink, very lovely, strawberry fragrances in this years Luper release.  Rope Pulley and Party Tricks, I'm looking at you.  I wanted to compare.  I bought my bottle of VPK lab fresh of Etsy a couple years ago.  

Think pink.  Strawberry cream candy pink.  In this way, it's very much like Rope Pulley.  I've had issues with strawberry smelling plasticy or "lip-smackery" on me, but this one, like RP and PT, works.  The gin is what sells VPK for me, though.  It elevates it above simple pink confection by adding a fizzy, tart contrast against the sugar, making it feel a little more grown up and perfect for summer.  It's definitely a keeper.

If you put liked this one, Rope Pulley is a less complex cousin, and Champagne and Maraschino Cherries has a similar contrast of sugary pink vs. tart fizz.  Not dupes, but worth looking into.  

Dry sandalwood and herbal sage are most prominent to my nose. I'm not familiar with calamus.  This has a very dusty green feel to me.  It makes me think of desert scrub.  It's soothing, contemplative, and natural.  The fragrance doesn't play to my personal tastes, but I can appreciate it for what it is and will enjoy my decant. 

Of all the GC bath oils, this is the one I could most see a typical guy enjoying. It's not a particularly masculine smell. It's just extremely gender neutral without an ounce of girly. Check it out if you love sandalwood or sage, or if your wanting some soothing aromatherapy.   

Grave dirt is an apt description. A moist, dark earth, rich with decay, piled over hints of dry, floral sweetness -- that's my first impression. I'm pretty sure the "bones" in this are orris. 

After the initial loamy burst, Bone Orchard becomes exceedingly dry. Desiccated sandalwood and orris. I'm guessing the purple fruits include plum. Maybe black currant?  Something purple lurks in the background, but this is not a juicy, succulent plum. This is overly ripe, bruised, fallen to the soft, dank soil to be the sustenance of worms and beatles. 

Overall, this one's very atmospheric, but not something I want a full bottle of. If you like earth notes, or dry resins, this is worth a sniff. Those looking for something fruity might be disappointed. 

A bright, sugary pop of citrus, almost bubble-gummy.  The florals peak around at the edges though, hinting at complexity and keeping this out of pure confection territory.  The lemongrass starts to go sour on my skin -- of course.  Boo for chemistry.  It kind of wafts in and out of the fragrance, especially if I sniff my skin up close.  When the sourness is not rearing its ugly head, I get a very pretty, well balanced citrus floral that is light, young, and cheery rather than zesty and astringent like citrus often is.  I can make out the peony and the lily of the valley (which manages not to go soapy here).  The florals I think of as heavier, the iris and wisteria, I don't really get.  Shoggoth smells like it could be sweet floral punch served at a summer tea party.

If you like bright florals, citrus, or candy like scents, I would try this.  

I want to love this one.  I kind of do at first.  I'm not huge on peach, but this is delightful in the beginning.  A strong, candy peach, yes, but one made with the real fruit.  Lindeman's Peach Iambic works well as a comparison.  There's something perfumey about it too though -- probably the florals.  Unfortunately, something emerges quickly that flattens the scent out on my skin.  It almost smells like paper -- like Lindeman's Peach spilled all over a brown grocery bag.  Maybe the musk?  Whatever it is drags things down to fragrance mediocrity.  Ah well.  Best of luck to those with differing chemistry.  This one seems like it could be a delightful fruity cocktail for others.  

2 hours ago, ladyphlogiston said:

Wow, you guys are awesome! Thanks so much! I'm totally blown away by the time you put into assembling these lists for me ❤️

 

Time to go through with my husband and come up with a first order. Sadly buying 40 imps at once is probably not in the cards.... 

No problem, and happy hunting!    And there actually is some good overlap with the suggestions, so hopefully that narrows it down. Also, I will third Aperatos Eros and second Tsadikim Nistarim.  I actually thought of those two, but I'd already posted.

So, the CG's two or more of us agree on - Aelopile ("Steamworks"), Aperatos Eros, Baba Yaga, Black Tower, Kali, Kumari Kandem, Nephilim, No 92 Engine, The Bow & Crown of Conquest, The Scales of Deprivation, The Great Sword of War (these three are in "Come and See"), Tsadikim Nistarim, and any of the Aztec "Excolo" (God) scents.  As well as American Gods Carousel, if you're willing to spring for a bottle or hunt down a decant on the forum.  Also, @forspecial_plate is quite correct.  You should check out Snake Oil. 

Hope that narrows it some for you.  I know there's a LOT.  That's part of the fun though.   

I Wish I Were Your Mirror, from the new Lupercalia release is unusual, complex, and showcases spices in a really interesting way, though with its incense and floral notes, it's hard to categorize.  2 Westerners is also a winner, with a lot of conflicting notes that blend rather seamlessly.  To My Dear and Loving Husband is an incense and leather beauty that swirls around quite a bit.   

Café Mille et une Nuits from OLLA also springs to mind.  It's a more typical sort of spice scent, but it's a good one and has nice complexity, without being overly foody.  The Carousel from American Gods and Eshe, A Vision of Life-In-Death from Carnival Diabolique are sweeter and more floral, but there's still a lot of other stuff going on in there.  The lab doesn't sell decants of Cafe, Carousel, and Esche, but the bottles are available year round and you might be able to find some decants in the sales and swap pages on this forum. 

As for GC scents?  Hmmmm.....I'll tell you what I like, but your mileage may vary wildly depending on what your chemistry does with the notes.  I've had really good luck with ALL the Aztec pantheon scents, including Tlazolteotl, so if any of those strike your fancy, I'd check them out.  The cocoa in all of them is more earthy than foody.  The Steamworks blends are also a good bet.  No 92 Engine's one of my faves.  The "Come and See" blends in the Sin & Salvation section are also complex and more gender neutral. 

Random CG frangrances I remember being complex -  Kali, Baba Yaga, Black Tower, Nephilim, Namaste, 51, Kathmandu, Kumari Kandem, and Island of Demons.  Those are all very different scents, but they have a lot of stuff going on in them, so they should keep your nose busy.   

Vetiver and a dark, pruney plum are the notes most prominent to my nose.  This has a similar vibe to Black Moths but is a bit darker and more masculine.  I get the barest hint of licorice root in the background, more of a coolness in the front of my nose than an actual smell.  It's not a sweet licorice, more earthy.    I'm not familiar enough with immortelle to know if I'm smelling it in the mix or not, though I have vague impressions that it's a floral with a powdery herbal tone. 

Noctule Bat is potent stuff.  After half an hour, it mellows somewhat, but steer clear of this one unless you're a vetiver fan.  Dark, smoky, brooding, and bitter are all good adjectives.  overall, I really like it, but sometimes I add something a little sugary to tone it down a tad. 

32 minutes ago, Seajewel said:

5 is a tight squeeze, but for now, would love recommendations for what I should buy (or hunt), if some of my favorite BPALs are:

1. Buck Moon (original)
2. OLLA Adam
3. Black Lace
4. Monster Bait: Underpants
5. Dragon's Milk

Ok I cannot keep it to five.. have to also throw in Mrs. Palmer's Establishment Atmosphere Spray as my favorite atmo of all time. Love both Bulgarian and French Tobacco SNs.. okay, I should stop. Any and all recs would be so very appreciated! 

Dark Lace is similar to Black Lace and may be easier to find. Also, you should check out the current Shunga - A Vision of the Courtesan, if it looks at all interesting to you.  The tobacco is beautifully smooth in it, and I think the creaminess might appeal to your Dragon Milk and Lace loving tendencies. 

Pear, white musk, and lily of the valley - without looking at the notes. 

Hmmm... Ok.  Not lily of the valley, but a gentle, somewhat soapy floral note created by a melange of other blossoms.  I think I can detect sweet pea peaking out, if I look.  Lily usually smells sweet, almost honeyed on me and avoids soap territory.  This is behaving better than most lily of the valley, but it's still very reminiscent.  The pear is made dry by the white musk at first, but after a few minutes, the musk and florals take over and pear becomes barely discernible.  There's a powdery softness to the blend, and an underlying creaminess, and the white musk refrains from going screechy.  It's pleasant, but very not me.  This seems like it fits in the family of Queen of Hearts, Endymion, and King of Hearts.  Check it out if you like lily of the valley, sweet pea, or your florals with aldehydes or white musk.  I was hoping for something more juicy and lush, and I'm disappointing I can't detect the heliotrope or honeysuckle. 

A burst of honeysuckle, right up front, with a spicy richness underneath.  The scent is juicy and green.  I can smell the fir needles, but they're the bright new needles of spring,  not last year's Christmas Tree boughs.  The forest scent becomes dominant, but there's still a thread of honeysuckle underneath which is lovely.  I never get "honey."  It's not golden or sweet enough for that.  My nose reads this and strait up BPAL honeysuckle note.  That's ok though.  This is wonderfully reminiscent of a sunny forest frolic.  

What about A Woman Practicing Calligraphy on Her Lover’s Erect Member?  I haven't tried it, but no leather and people seem to smell the ink. Does this work as a bookish scent?  Anyone with first had knowledge?

I've avoided reviewing this one for a long time because, even though I like it, it's a hard one to pin down.  Lots of notes and lots of morphing as it dries down.  It last quite a while on me, though I wouldn't say it's a strong fragrance.  This is the 2016 version, so it's had a while to age and come together.

It's warm, gently wood, slightly spiced, and sweet in the bottle.  Pleasant, with no notes standing out.  It smells similar when I dab it on, but strengthens.  The lemon verbena floats to the top, along with the hyssop, I think.  Something powdery, herbal and sort of anise-like.  The lemon verbena starts to go yucky and sour on my chemistry, but luckily, this phase is short.  Then it reverts back to it's initial phase, with a touch of fruit added.  The poppy and hibiscus give this a thin, red, fruity tone that's interesting mixed with the darker notes.  The fragrance continues to morph, evolving a honeyed sweetness, over the now more prominent fruits.  It become more golden than red.  After this phase, the spices exert themselves, and this becomes almost a mulled punch over mellow, smooth wood. 

Over all this stays complex, warm, vaguely sweet, woody, fruity, and warm.  In short, this fragrance makes me think of chewing on golden raisins.    It also smells somewhat like the beginning stages of Cairo.  I wear it now and then, but I would really love it as a candle.  It just seems cheery and comforting without being in any way stereo-typical of a Christmas scent.  

I would not let one or two notes keep you from trying this.  It's very much a sum of its balanced parts.

Reviewing from memory, but I recall this being a very salty, fresh aquatic.  It had a nice weight to it, but wasn't dark or heavy, and seemed like it would work great for someone who wanted a fresh air, beach vibe in a realistic way, or maybe wanted to make enclose spaces smell open.  Clean, but not like cleaning product clean.  This would be very nice for a guy's space, as it's not sweet, and far from the "sea breezy" fragrances so typical in candles and room sprays.  This smells more natural.  A bit like Beach Scene, but without the woodiness. I liked this one, even though aquatics aren't usually my thing.  I'm digging all the salt in this year's line up.    

I'm not having much luck with this release. Every note listed should have been win, but what I'm getting is perfumey chemicals with a weird sour sweetness.  No recognizable honeysuckle or amber cream. Perhaps plum and cherry blossom, but only in a very artificial, chemical way.  A no go for me. 😕

On 5/1/2020 at 11:28 PM, Miyabi said:

Hey, I thought I'd ask: how lilac-filled is Hotaru no Yu HG? Thinking about nabbing a bottle without trying it, but I'm wondering how strong the grass and amber notes might be (otherwise, it looks a bit similar to Salt Phoenix, which works well)

Salt Phoenix is one of my favorite BPAL lilacs.    I used to think of it as a perfect lavender/lilac blend, but it's deepened with age and grown more complex.  

Hotaru no Yu is a different animal.  It's quite lilac-y, but the honeysuckle makes a good showing, so you get more of a dewy, spring floral.  It's a floraly-floral, but a nice one if you're into that sort of thing.    I kept my decant, but a full bottle was a little much for me.  

Don't forget about Kabuki Actor and Their Lover, though.  The lilac is more mellow, but it balances really nicely with the champaca and incense.  Basically, think a light, lilac scented incense.  I can smell a bit of the cherry blossom too, but the lilac is stronger to me.  I love incense blends, so I preferred this one over Hotaru no Yu.  

Salt Phoenix's lavender and salty aspects really set it apart from these two HG's, at least to my nose.