galahad

In the Vial: Black musk and lime On the Skin: Black musk held back by tobacco and with the lime adding a nice cut-through. The bay rum adds it's distictive robust note but doesn't take over. The orange blossom eventually adds a little sweetness On the Drydown: There is almost a gourmand cakiness to this which is unexpected. I'm not a fan of the lime which remains fairly consistent in the blend. It's quite nice but not really for me.

In the Vial: Patchouli with a touch of cardamom and leather On the Skin: Mostly patchouli to start but the cardamom comes though soon after application and the peru balsam softens the blend to round out the whole fairly quickly. This goes from intense and sharp to smooth and soft in the blink of an eye. On the Drydown: Soft, supple spiced leather with just the faintest touch of musky blackcurrant. Oudh is not a feature element in this blend but just provides a woody back note. Low throw in the end but really very nice. Will need a bottle of this. For those on the fence about leather blends, the leather note is not overly strong in this.

In the Vial: Slightly peppery and sour black tea in the vial On the Skin: Dusty carnation to start and then the carnation amps (which is nice - it is a richly spicy red carnation). The clove, patchouli and black pepper emerge to add a dry but rich resin backing. There is a slight citrus vibe as well. almost like bergamot but not. On the Drydown: Ends up a dry, slightly off carnation. Carnation has a tendency to go "sweaty" on my skin

In the Vial: Faint sandalwood and orris On the Skin: Takes a little while to warm on the skin and bloom. Faintly incensey (light and sharp rather than dark), pale patchouli and a whisper of vanilla. The champaca adds a meaty floral note but is very restrained, just staining the whole blend and then the sandalwood starts to emerge which is a little rough and thin but just held in check by the other notes. On the Drydown: This is low throw and ends up as a faint sweet cardboard on my skin courtesy of the sandalwood. Sadly not for me

In the Vial: Sweet, dark musk. Smell like Crowley On the Skin: Gorgeous sweet black musk. This smells so much like Crowley or Mme. Moriarty to me. I love it. Not much in the way of coffee to start with but it is providing an interesting backdrop. On the Drydown: This is a no-brainer multiple bottle scent. Further into the drydown the coffee emerges and it is a sweet, mellow white coffee. LOVE

In the Vial: Slight amber and patchouli On the Skin: Gorgeous dry woods (patchouli and oudh) with a touch of clove in the background. The fig (the best fig so far from the Lab, IMHO) is truly golden and caramelised. A few minutes into the drydown this has a distinct musk and old tobacco smoke scent (which I really love) which may be the saffron inter-reacting with the other notes. On the Drydown: I wasn't expecting this one the be much of a winner but I really love it. It's a mature and complex scent, all smoky musk and woods with a subtle spice kick and a round non-cloying sweetness supporting the blend.

In the Vial: Sweet pear and patchouli On the Skin: Surprisingly dry and dusty moss and patchouli with a mineral edge. Interesting and not as fruity as expected. The labdanum rounds out the scent eventually and the pear is a very subtle sweetness in the background On the Drydown: The pear gets a chance to play a role as this dries down but never gets too much exposure, just sweetening the blend. The patchouli takes more of a lead as it develops on the skin. The overall effect is quite compelling and I like it. There is a subtle nod to the marine.

TKO is my go to sleep blend but I got this for some moon ritual work, dream work and general sleep utility blend. I wore this last night with intentions of a peaceful sleep with gentle dreams. I slept like a rock which is unusual for me. The scent in the bottle for me was disturbing and murky. Not totally unpleasant.

After reading the reviews about the intensity of the vetiver I approached this with caution but I do like vetiver in moderation I wore this today for my PT workout but realised when I got there that I had shifted the booking! The scent of this on me was surprising. It was a dark, bittersweet smoked chocolate drying down to a rosy vetiver. I really like it Will need to try again when I have a real PT booking.

In the Bottle: Softly green and mossy with fresh rain On the Skin: Sappy greenery and soft flowers in the background with a hint of nectar. Warm amber and cinnamon creep in gradually, never overpowering. The floral note is really pretty and delicate. On the Drydown: As this dries down a touch of ozone creeps in along with a slight blood note. The resins add depth to an otherwise fresh and soft scent. Gorgeous and perfect for summer. I was expecting something heavier and I am pleasantly surprised

In the Bottle: Definitely cigarillo/cigar smoke, creamy sweetness and coffee On the Skin: Sweet, creamy coffee and rich, spicy cigarillo smoke to start with and soon after a vague fruitiness emerges. Then some ice cream with a berry sauce. Gradually the curry spices come out, very dry and toasted. Fascinating and actually quite nice. On the Drydown: The transitions on this one are fast and furious! Dries down to a creamy spiced coffee with the memory of cigar smoke. And there is still a vague fruitiness. The extreme drydown is dry curry spices. This is very wearable and really nice.

In the bottle: This was initially very vinegary straight out of the mail but it has settled down some. Still slight vinegar and labdanum On the Skin: Vinegar, soft musk and labdanum. The overall effect is somewhat aniseedy as well. I am really hoping after some aging this will smooth out and lose it's pickle note. On the Drydown: After 10 minutes or so, this becomes closer to what I was looking forward to - slightly smoky labdanum and warm musk. I see some hope for this in the future

When I saw this come up and read the reviews I immediately ordered 2 bottles and I am so glad I did! In the Bottle: Softly balsamic, coolly airy (but not cold), faintly minty and sweet. On the Skin: A beautiful airy but balmy musk with a touch of green sappy growth and a soft waft of fir/pine. Surprisingly powerful but not overpowering. Almost a sweet tea aspect to this. Indescribably mysterious and sexy On the Drydown: A subtle scent but has very good staying power and surprisingly has good throw. I think this will be come my #1 scent. It is so amazing and ends up a slighty smoky musk with soft balsamic greenery and fur notes. It is warm and seductive

In the Bottle: Cedar and vanilla On the Skin: Not a lot different to any other cedar and vanilla blends I have tried to start with but the cardamom starts to emerge to make this really special. It's a fairly slow eveolution though. On the Drydown: This is a quiet snuggly scent. Definitely a vanilla warmed cedarwood but the cardamom is subtly blended to add an unusual round spiciness to this. Completely gorgeous and will age to perfection.

In the Bottle: Exactly as the description! Paint, old carpet worn to the heavy backing, a little wax and old booze On the Skin: Wow. Musty, old sacking/carpet and paint. Dusty and musty. It smells exactly like some old/well used buildings I have been in. Almost cloyingly sweet with mould/mildew. On the Drydown: Probably not something I would wear out but I find this comforting and would wear at home on a rainy dull day. It actually ends up quite sweet and musty. Lasting power isn't as long as I would like.

In the Bottle: Mugwort! A little sour and ashen On the Skin: Initially, very strong mugwort. As it warms, the frankincense warms the blend and dulls the mugwort edges. I like this more as it settles into the skin but still very herbal. On the Drydown: Softens considerably as it dries down, which is a relief. This will be nice after age knocks off the sharp edges.

In the Bottle: Faintly smoky and incensey On the Skin: As above but a little stronger. As it warms the cigaette smoke note intensifies a little more. The resins sweeten as it warms leading to an ashen resinous incense. On the Drydown: I really like this. It doesn't have a lot of power but sits close to the skin. It ends as a sweet charred incense with a gritty foundation

In the Bottle: Golden but with a cool edge. On the Skin: Tamed orange blossom. The oudh emerges as a soft resin with a perfumey edge, sweetened by amber. A really interesting pale but warm blend On the Drydown: The slightly medicinal saffron adds an interesting element to this. The play of the resins against the orange blossom is pleasant. Not a strong, overpowering blend but it has a soft longevity on the skin.

In the Bottle: Fine white musk with a green leaf edge. On the Skin: Green and silver. The bergamot emerges soon after application. The white tea leaf adds an astringency to amplify the metallic silver feel and the iris adds a powdery, slightly floral note. Lovely and ethereal On the Drydown: The bergamot is quite prominent, which is fine by me. Dries down to a silvery bergamot. A nice summer scent

In the Bottle: Vanilla, cardamom and rich honey. A lovely warm, spiced vanilla. On the Skin: A rich cardamom honey, warmed by amber. I believe the cacao is giving a warm depth to the blend but isn't specifically identifiable as a note. There is almost a rosey floral intensity to the blend as it warms on the skin. On the Drydown: The cardamom and amber twine together so beautifully to create a spicy desert aridity and the vanilla and honey add warmth and depth. There is also a sense of underlying booziness. Becomes drier and spicier as it dries down further. Exotic and very nice.

In the Bottle: Musky opopanax On the Skin: Starts off as a refined myrrh and then the patchouli and astringent oak emerge to sharpen the blend. I don't specifically get any violet but there is a floral aspect to this. On the Drydown: This does become dark and stony on the drydown and, best of all, the opopanax emerges with more strength the further it dries and warms. Very nice and should age beautifully

In the Bottle: Vanilla and pale musk On the Skin: Sweet vanilla and amber with a touch of powdery ambergris. Seems to be close to the skin when trying to catch the scent directly but actually has good throw. The florals play a supporting role rather than featuring. On the Drydown: Tobacco flower has a rich almost lily-like scent and I believe it is, along with the moonflower, just giving this scent it's luminous quality. It is smooth light vanilla and amber but also not heavy. Very nice

In the Bottle: Red musk, juniper, vetiver and jasmine. A little jasmine-scary in the bottle, Dark and dirty On the Skin: Sweetens up with the plum on the skin. The juniper is very present and initially jars with the other notes but eventually smooths out. I think the orange blossom is the funky note I get (it usually is if it's in a blend). On the Drydown: Dry and sweet red musk incense with jasmine. Reminiscent of Mme Moriarty with jasmine. Overall I like it even if the jasmine is challenging at times. I am sure it will age beautifully.

In the Bottle: Fragrant parchment On the Skin: The bay rum is restrained leaving the amber and oudh to play so nicely together and just adding a spike over the low rumbling resins. This is a soft, cuddly scent and has a warm elegence. On the Drydown: Has very little throw hovering just above the skin. I had very high expectations of Shadow and mostly it doesn't disappoint. It is understated, warm and refined. A plastic vibe does waft in and out which I am hoping will fade with age. I like.

In the Bottle: Strangely dry and earthy/ashen with blood/musk On the Skin: Just awesome. Definitely get a cigarette ash note (which I like) which is dusty, dry and fragrant. The blood adds a coppery tang which quickly morphs into a wonderful metallic which is not your usual cold steel scent but oddly warm and heavy, more like lead On the Drydown: The incense note emerges - sweet and resinous. Dries down to an amazing metallic musk. Possibly the most fascinating lab scent so far for me. The extreme drydown is mineral. I love it and will need a backup.