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BPAL Madness!

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Looked at in one way each breadth stands alone, the bloated curves and flourishes—a kind of “debased Romanesque” with delirium tremens—go waddling up and down in isolated columns of fatuity.

 

But, on the other hand, they connect diagonally, and the sprawling outlines run off in great slanting waves of optic horror, like a lot of wallowing seaweeds in full chase.

 

The whole thing goes horizontally, too, at least it seems so, and I exhaust myself in trying to distinguish the order of its going in that direction.

 

They have used a horizontal breadth for a frieze, and that adds wonderfully to the confusion.

 

There is one end of the room where it is almost intact, and there, when the cross-lights fade and the low sun shines directly upon it, I can almost fancy radiation after all,—the interminable grotesques seem to form around a common centre and rush off in headlong plunges of equal distraction.


Flowers in full chase, radiant and absurd, grotesquely endless: narcissus blooms lolling on broken stems, their buttery perfume swelling into a debased crescendo of honeyed heliotrope, toxic lily of the valley, almond blossom, and opium poppy.

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Honeyed and narcotic, the kind of dizzying pareidolia where you keep almost seeing something recognizable before it dissolves back into confused blooms. Marzipan shaped into wedding cake flowers, perfect and poisonous, the immediate wrongness of food mimicking flora mimicking food. Almond ghost-flickering through a blanket of heavy white petals, there for a second, then gone, sweetness piled on sweetness until it becomes a hypnotic spiraling, beautiful in that specific way that makes you slightly sick.

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This goes on quite sweet on me, with a burst of almond blossom and nutty, sweetened heliotrope, with the narcissus distinct but waiting in the background. I was unsure about it at this stage - a little too almond, a little too sweet. But as it dries down the almond blossom recedes, and the narcissus comes through truly gorgeously as the center of the blend.

 

The lab's narcissus note fascinates me but has never fully worked for me - it has that paperwhite-like sickening edge (especially in perfumes like Langour in which is actually with paperwhites, bringing out that quality) which can't quite be described as indolic, but is somehow beautiful and queasy at once. I have several imps of narcissus-centric GCs which I've kept around because of that fascination, but never have quite found wearable, and I've wondered whether I would find a narcissus that I did actually want to wear. I think Interminable Grotesques may be it. There's a greenhouse quality to this narcissus, humid and sweetened, the perfume trapped within fogging glass. With the honey from the heliotrope, it reminds me of the stunning daffodil note in Flower Moon 2009, which is a gentler, more golden variation on bpal's narcissus, and one which has always felt closer to me to the true smell of the flower in nature (daffodil and narcissus, of course, being the same plant - their scent isn't noticeable most of the time, but is distinct if you actually try smelling a daffodil, or if you're fortunate enough to be in a place with overflowing beds of them in the springtime, amplifying their subtle fragrance). This is still much more indolic than the freshness of Flower Moon, which is definitely a field of wildflowers and not a bunch of blooms in a greenhouse, but there's a distinct resemblance.

 

Over the course of wear, I also get what I could swear is a classic lily note rather than a lily of the valley - if I really look for it I can maybe find a sharpness that I could call lily of the valley, but I also get a very distinct daylily which mingles beautifully with the narcissus. I don't think I can quite track the opium poppy yet, but it's perhaps part of the subtle sweetness in the background. This had quite long wear length, even just a day out of the mail.

 

So: okay but not great when wet, really beautiful on drydown. I'll need to wear it a few more times to get a sense of whether I do want a bottle, and probably compare it with Flower Moon 2009 as well, but I think it might very well end up being a bottle purchase for me; it feels the 'wearable narcissus' gap which has been present in my flower completionist collection.

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