Failmingo

They had a good run! Here's a list of the '23 Lunacy stuff that's coming down on May 1st when we finally bid adieu to the Halloweenies:

Can't believe I didn't review this last year. Over time my appreciation for really dark musks has deepened, but I still tread carefully. This one is so exquisite, beautifully mellowed into something goopy and mysterious by the amber and labdanum. And yes, as others have pointed out, the scent (both in the bottle and on the skin) is fiercely, defiantly animalic.

I think just the imagery from the name and art was enough to mentally conjure some kind of shaggy horned/hooved situation; there is something hot in it that faintly reminds me of the weird burning bone smell from the dentist. I'd entirely forgotten that charred sandalwood was included in the brew, so re-reading that once I had it on the skin made all the sense. That's where this truly infernal quality comes from, which I'm addicted to.

So it's not an idyllic, pastoral goat scent at all; there really is that sense of ancient curses and old-world superstitions. I've found this enjoyable year-round; in colder seasons it's like memories of heat from a dead hearth, in warmer seasons it advertises a kind of foully hypnotizing animal lust. It broadcasts that attitude problem that folks are counting on goths to provide, and which some will find sexy. The forbidding aspect of the charred bony stuff feels like a statement of plausible deniability: "Sure, I may seem appetizing now... but you were warned."

In the bottle this is rich and dark, and the combo of earthiness and fruitiness really could tilt toward the stench of decay -- but this only nods to it, as a faint gesture of acknowledgement. There's a stillness and coolness to the bottled scent that's suggestive of the absence of life's creature comforts, although it's quite vivid in other ways. 

While this is quite a bit different than my all-time fave BPAL, The Great He-Goat, there is enough overlap with the pomegranate and vetiver combo to point my brain in that direction... and I love that! The crackling smokiness of the vetiver blooms on the skin, lending a brash warmth to the oakmoss, but then -- lest all this like spread out of control like a brushfire -- the pomegranate stickily enfolds and grounds the other notes, imparting an sullen infernal hue, like a scene viewed through a deep red stained-glass window. Very seductive!

To me this is a lustrous fall scent, hinting at mysteries and reveling romantically in notions of death and decay, the way we play at embracing the darkness while it's still relatively comfortable -- before the full reality of winter's desolation sets in. I could almost swear I smell the "smoked ginger" from the He-Goat scent in this, in Worm's dying gasp; whatever that is, it's worth sticking around for.

Is this the right place to review the 2024 version? I didn't see a separate entry for it.

Having enjoyed this one a great deal in its first run, I can say with confidence that the new one is exactly what I was expecting: the fluffy sweetness and warmth reminds me of standing over the cotton candy machine as the heated sugar filaments are wound around the stick, perfumed with just a breath of rosy elegance. It's a real mood-lifter for me!

I have no proof of this, but would swear there's an unlisted pale musk element as well -- a nod to the fuzziness of the cuffs, perhaps. I think that's what keeps it airy and light through all the stages of drydown.

Overall this seems to land at a very special intersection: playfully feminine without being cutesy, gourmand without going full foodie. So happy to have it back in rotation!

Hello, I am happy to announce that the PS Publishing book Bride of Frankenstein -- which contains an essay by yours truly, and inspired the Lightning Strikes scent series -- has been nominated for a Rondo Hatton Classic Horror Award, in the category of Book of the Year (Non-Fiction). 

These awards are a fan-driven affair, which means voting is open to everyone. This can be as simple as emailing taraco@aol.com to say you’re voting for Bride of Frankenstein for Book of the Year (Non-Fiction), or you can review all of the categories/nominees contained in the link above and include votes for those as well.  Just one vote per person, and the email must include your name to be counted.

I'm sincerely grateful to anyone who supports us with a vote, or who has enjoyed the book and/or fragrances, all of which were doggedly worked toward during a very bleak time during the pandemic. To be recognized with a Rondo nomination is huge!

xoxo

TB

I'd give Frederic a try! Or in a more floral direction, A-Rovin' from the sea shanty anniversary series.

OMG, @Geminirubyshoes -- I could have sworn I'd written one. Nope!

This is THE standout from Luper 2024 as far as I'm concerned, in terms of the realism and lusciousness of the scent as well as the on-theme fantasy it serves up. Indulgent, bordering on erotic!

In the bottle it's so strong and joy-giving, precisely the same pastel green sweetness when I get a honeydew milk tea at the boba place. That alone would have been worth the ride for me, and I may put some in a scent locket just to hold on to that stage, when the melon is at its richest -- still ever-so-slightly crisply aquatic, but blended creamy smooth. I have to go hunting a bit for that cake smell in the bottle, because the melon is so robust.

On the skin though, the cake poofs out quite noticeably, giving the honeydew something to play against in terms of color and texture. 10/10 would eat this cake! And just as @Geminirubyshoes noted, the whipped cream has startling heft and longevity in this scent, gradually emerging as The Whole Point. Like... I'd cut another slice of this cake just to eat all the whipped cream. 

Because of that lovely creaminess and perhaps the tropical fruit connotation, I'd say this reminds me somewhat of Noisy Goose Moon, except that one swerves boozier whereas this one is all innocence, sunshine and wholesomeness. It's very mood brightening! Galen hates melon so I have to be careful not to slather in it

Just a reminder about the upcoming Lunacy event in Vermont on Saturday the 30th! Very grateful to Courtney for coordinating and hosting. 

All the details are here:

https://www.facebook.com/events/931224658281816/?

They've had a nice long reign... seven years, appropriately enough? But I've been informed that the 7-Word Story scents from 2017 will be discontinued this spring, whenever we finally get around to taking the Halloween stuff down.

I don't have a firm date for that yet, but figured folks would want to know so they could plan accordingly in upcoming orders!

Elizabeth has contributed three talismanic oils for the new S+S drop celebrating Exalted Luna! Details below.

https://sphereandsundry.com/offerings/exalted-luna-bpals/

PLEASE NOTE: These oils are not a substitute for therapy, medical care, or mental health care.

HORN OF LILY

This oil was crafted to help fortify mental stability, intensify concentration, and help gain and maintain control of one’s own thoughts and, consequently, actions. This is not an oil of mental agility; rather, it is an oil of deliberate thought, calm reflection, and the serenity of mind required to make wise decisions.

This oil helps to quiet unnecessary noise, soothe agitation, and cultivate tranquility of mind.

Peppermint essential oil and leaf from the TAL garden (Mentha piperita), Austrian thyme essential oil and leaf (Thymus vulgaris), lemon balm essential oil and leaf (Melissa officinalis), jasmine absolute (Jasminum grandiflorum), rose hips from the TAL garden (Rosa rubiginosa), star anise essential oil and pods (Illicium verum), sage leaf from the TAL garden (Salvia officinalis), clary sage essential oil (Salvia sclarea), juniper berries (Juniperus communis), cornmint essential oil (Mentha arvensis), hyssop essential oil and leaf from the TAL garden (Hyssopus officinalis), burgundy pitch (Pini burgundica), elder blossom CO2 extract (Sambucus nigra), white oak bark (Quercus alba), allspice berries and essential oil (Pimenta dioica), clove essential oil and bud (Syzygium aromaticum), and wild harvested California black pine needles (Pinus jeffreyi).

HORN OF OAK

An oil with a multifold purpose: enhancing physical strength, cultivating a hearty constitution, and establishing a foundation of financial stability. This oil was crafted to strengthen physical strength and endurance, build the groundwork for long-term financial wealth, and solidify financial and physical balance. It is an oil for financial investments and investments in your physical health.

Cedar leaf and essential oil (Juniperus monosperma), rose absolute and rose petals from the TAL garden (Rosa damascena), wild rose petals from the TAL garden (Rosa nutkana), holy basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum), fig leaf, twig, and root from the TAL garden (Ficus carica), dragon’s blood resins (Dracaena draco and Daemonorops draco), rose hips from the TAL garden (Rosa rubiginosa), sage leaf from the TAL garden (Salvia officinalis), saffron threads (Crocus sativus), moonflower petals from the TAL garden (Ipomoea alba), red lotus petals (Nymphaea rubra), frankincense essential oil and tears (Boswellia sacra), Moroccan chamomile essential oil (Ormenis mixta), wild-harvested California black walnut leaf and bark (Juglans califomica), white oak bark (Quercus alba), juniper berries and essential oil (Juniperus communis), wild-harvested coast live oak leaf and bark (Quercus agrifolia), wild-harvested valley oak tree leaves (Quercus lobate), calamus (Acorus calamus), hyssop essential oil and leaf from the TAL garden (Hyssopus officinalis), nutmeg essential oil (Myristica fragrans), wild-harvested dandelion leaf and root (Taraxacum officinale), burgundy pitch (Pini burgundica), clove essential oil and bud (Syzygium aromaticum), Irish moss (Chondrus crispus), cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum verum), patchouli root, leaf and essential oil (Pogostemon cablin), butter CO2, Guatemala balsam (Myroxylon balsamum (L.) Harms Var perierae), fir needle essential oil (Abies balsamea), and pine essential oil and needles (Pinus sylvestris).

This oil is not vegan, as it contains CO2 extract of butter.

HORN OF ROSE

While Horn of the Lily soothes the mind, so does Horn of the Rose soothe the heart. This is an oil of stability and grounding that assists in emotional regulation and soothes turbulence and cools passions in order to help facilitate equilibrium, balance, and integration.

Rose absolute and rose petals from the TAL garden (Rosa damascena), wild rose petals from the TAL garden (Rosa nutkana), angelica root and essential oil (Angelica archangelica), Ecuadorian palo santo wood resin and essential oil (Bursera graveolens), orris root and butter (Iris pallida Lam.), champaca absolute (Michelia champaca L.), ylang ylang essential oil (Cananga odorata var. genuina), helichrysum essential oil (Helichrysum italicum), lavender buds and solvent-extracted absolute (Lavandula angustifolia), Seville lavender essential oil (Lavandula stoechas subsp. luisieri Rozeira ), rose hips (Rosa rubiginosa), oakwood absolute (Quercus robur), benzoin gum (Quercus robur), hyssop essential oil and herb from the TAL garden (Hyssopus officinalis), ), burgundy pitch (Pini burgundica), clove essential oil and bud (Syzygium aromaticum), Scotch pine essential oil (Pinus sylvestris), wildharvested Eastern white pine needles (Pinus strobus), whole jasmine flowers (Jasminum odoratissimum), jasmine absolute (Jasminum grandiflorum), and Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab rose vegetal musk.

I had no recollection of this from the original release, and thus have no basis for comparison. From a bottle-sniff alone I wouldn't have thought much of it: creamy and wispy, faintly pink at the edges, all in a relatively unsentimental way: comforting without being particularly inviting.

I think it must be one of those scents that's densely packed together like an accordion, expanding once it makes contact with air, because within a few moments on the skin I felt like someone in one of those cinematic dolly zoom shots:

Each of the listed notes has deepened somehow, unfolding dimensionally. I'm getting several layers of cream, a polished wood base, and a scattering of pale floral bokeh twinkles. I truly went from a "meh" in the first two minutes to finding myself continually distracted by this scent over the next two hours, because of how seductive it was. I kept catching myself thinking it was a scent someone else was wearing. Nope, that's me!

In the drydown there are elements of overlap with other creamy scents I love: Melon Cream Cake, and Noisy Goose Moon. This one is more grownup, I suppose, a bit more wistful, less overtly foodie. Really happy I gave it a try, because I've been so buried in Shungas that most have only gotten a superficial sniff so far. 

I smelled this immediately following Edible Panties -- comparable in terms of red fruit and pink pepper, but WHOOSH what a difference that pom makes. Almost concerningly dark! Who hurt you, pomegranate? You get a sense of candied sweetness and spice around the edges trying to liven things up, but there's no avoiding the deep burgundy abyss at the center.

I agree that it's reminiscent of Pomegranate Ink! But with a more playful twist instead of doubling down on the inky darkness. The depth of it seems quite secretive and personal compared to a ribald Edible Panties adventure. French Tickler is more of a special occasion lover: recesses are plumbed, real feelings are felt. Grows more serious as it dries out, but never quite loses that juicy tartness. Almost a blackberry? Divine. Candy is dandy, but this is some ADULT FRUIT.

Galen and I were just laughing about how fruit roll-up-y this is in the bottle. It has that sticky humidity, I can practically HEAR the ripping sound of the roll-up peeling away from the clear plastic. This is maybe the most immodestly sugared-up strawberry I've had the honor of encountering in a BPAL... almost like a daiquiri or a sundae topping. And same with the cherry, it's downright lurid. 

On the skin the peppercorn really elevates this blend. It's still fruity to the point of utter lasciviousness, I'd say maybe even downright TACKY. But the pepper corn gives it an arid quality and also a bit of mystery, the kind that makes it possible to show one's face in public even when dressed like THAT.

It smells to me the way I think girls (and others, ahem) in the '80s fantasized about smelling when they grew up. And you know, maybe some actually dared to, and then some of us didn't. But it's never too late! I'm turning 45 this year, and suddenly it seems alarmingly possible that I'll show up to my birthday party smelling like Edible Panties.

There's absolutely nothing about this list of notes that suggests I would find it enticing. And the Hair Gloss iteration of this scent was so MUCH TOO MUCH that I don't think I even tried it on. However, tonight I was playing the fun game of just grabbing bottles and blind smelling, and this one demanded a skin test. I would have guessed some kind of deep, resinous cherry or pomegranate (perhaps because I knew French Tickler was somewhere on this shelf). I didn't track anything especially floral in the bottle.

I tend to avoid wine scents, but here we are. That was the fruit I was catching, and the red musk has really worked it into a dark lather. Truly just a breath of magnolia hanging in the air around it, incredibly apt for the scent concept. It's not "soapy" and it doesn't smell like bathwater or bubble bath, more like an environment that sets the stage for both cleanliness AND filth. It kind of alternates between hard and soft, gauzy and gleaming, romantic and pervy. As that rich redness gradually calms down, I can appreciate the more refined contributions of oudh, benzoin, and magnolia, but... it's all still very impure. We all know that tub is gonna see some action. In my imagination, the heart-shaped hot tub itself is in the center of the room, with everything else built around it. The scent is constructed accordingly.

In short: is it possible for a scent to give both fancy hotel vibes AND sleazy hotel vibes? That's what I found here. And I guess I like wine now!

This is the most rhubarb-forward fragrance that I, personally have ever smelled! In the bottle there's a lovely gradient from the sharp, almost vegetal dark green to that twinkling ruby tartness, surrounded on all sides by soft piles of custard -- plenty of reassuring sweetness to support the more forbidding tones, just the way you'd want in a quality rhubarb bake.

I don't get the cake part as much until the oil is drying on the skin, and even then it just serves as a lovely, crumbly platform for the tangy rhubarb enjoying its moment in the spotlight. There's a lovely interplay between the coolness and warmth of these various notes, kind of the way something will still taste "baked" even though it's fully cool to the touch.

If someone didn't know this was rhubarb, I have no idea what they'd guess it was... but it's definitely distinctive, appealing, and suggestive of something tantalizingly edible, without overpromising in terms of sweetness of intent. 

I've found this lasts decently long on my skin! I'm excited to layer with some rose blends (particularly Roses, Pearls, and Rubies, which has a less-prominent rhubarb note) and some strawberry blends (which are often too sweet for me to fully enjoy).

We've done it! 🥶 Here's everything that's included in the latest Lunacy launch:

https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-tag/lunacy-february-2024/

All of the current Lunacy products can be browsed together here:

https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/a-little-lunacy-limited-edition/

In the bottle this tracks so cleanly to the fluffy salad I remember eating at family functions, it's kind of astonishing. The twinkles of pineapple juice and kind of husky nutty scent of the pistachio and coconut, floating on a sort of blandly creamy cloud. The blandness is part of what's so appealing about it, I wish I could describe it better. That's how it was with the ambrosia itself: nothing I ever craved or requested, but I did enjoy eating it, exploring all the flavors and textures.

On the skin it's surprisingly mature, possessing a startling sensuality and longing. The nutty notes have real oleaginous richness and depth that offset the unseriousness of that pastel tutti-frutti color palette. It reminds me of an illicit encounter during a party, perhaps in a bathroom or closet, with the sound of other people's laughter and gaiety audible in the background. It also seems like authentic tiki bar time travel! If it wasn't for these distinctly vintage-y associations, I might have sworn it was a Shunga.

Over time I found the orange outlasted the pineapple, but otherwise it remains silky green and nutty to the bitter(sweet) end.

I reviewed this in quite a bit of detail on an Instagram Live session, but then... the Live crashed and it wasn't able to be shared. So I'll try to recreate my thoughts here!

Upon first sniffing the bottle, I died a little because there is such wonderful overlap with Nobodies Watching Wrestling -- the black leather & strawberry lip gloss scent which I've been enjoying for many years. However, the difference in complexity is startling, and instantly elevates Fancy Pups to a higher tier of enjoyment. There's a smooth, creamy, oleaginous pinkness that I associate with Millennial Pink, but also these sparkling tropical fruit notes that seem realistically juicy and tart. The leather, which remains present at all times, is sleek and elegant, but there's a distinct sweaty or polluted quality (the tobacco, surely) to it as well. 

On the skin it's a real party. Galen described it as "Vegas-y." It's successfully genderblind IMO, very playful and bratty in its ambiguity, rolling back and forth between sweet and stern, coquettish and brazen, pastel and pitch black. That mango/papaya color palette really defines the scent as much as the sweat-slicked leather does. It stays and stays on me -- if I wear it in the evening, I can still faintly smell it when I wake up.

In short: Fancy Pups is what Fancy Pups NEEDED to be. Bravo!

This one might not be an easy sell, since the combo of cherry and mint makes it impossible to escape a certain amount of "cough drop" associations. But Green Maraschino is more complex than that, and rewards a deeper sniff!

My immediate thought when smelling the bottle was that there's actually something grassy to it. The freshness of the mint, the bright acidic tartness of the lime and yuzu, the lushly glowing sweetness of the cherry... kind of a lot going on! But my first impression was chlorophyll? Which is oddly fitting given the color palette. Am I crazy?

I am not a great lover of mint smells, and the peppermint immediately grew stronger when freshly applied to the skin. This was a bummer, but I'm glad I waited it out! Within a few moments it  calmed down quite nicely, and the sharp citrus seems to throw the furthest. I was also fascinated to discover that the lovely cherry sweetness remains relatively understated, rather the way it would in a cocktail garnished with a maraschino. No boozy notes are listed, but there's something about the whole package that suggests a fancy cocktail at a '50s nightclub, poured from an aluminum shaker. I would savor a drink that tastes the way this scent smells: cold, refreshing, not too sweet. I never quite get that grass blast again, but there's definitely something about the citrus and peppermint pairing that evokes a wet, glittering green.

Some of the things I love about Green Maraschino are exactly what might read to others as "Welcome to the Halls of Medicine," but I think the tartness really turns it into something else, and I'll be excited to wear it out on warmer evenings.

We’ve been releasing this special Leap Year scent ever since 2008! But this time we’re going to keep FREDERIC around a little longer than usual, so more of you get to enjoy him. ⚓️

https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/shop/a-little-lunacy-limited-edition/lunacy/frederic-2024-perfume-oil/

Alas, poor Frederic the Leapling! — bound to the merry Pirates of Penzance until his twenty-first birthday.

As his birthday comes around only every four years, so does his scent!

“Victorian whimsy and piratical romance: a reluctant seaman’s chypre sloshed with a mix of bay rum, patchouli, amber musk, dark woods, tea rose, and red currant.”

This weekend will be the latest blood milk event at Sphinx & Snakeskin, and they'll be unveiling the following new scent:

MIDNIGHT SNOWFALL

Frost-dappled night-blooming petals, Oman frankincense, champaca orchid resin, and opium tar accord.

Updates and info about the event can be found here:

https://www.instagram.com/sphinxandsnakeskin/

Everyone here likely already knows that the Lupers have landed, but here's my belated official post about it!

https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/lupercalia-2024/

https://blackphoenixalchemylab.com/product-category/novel-ideas-for-secret-amusements-2024/

Here’s a cross-section of the collection's contents:

🫀 Main Category Lupercalia - Reunite with old friends and lovers from Lupers past, or cruise for new ones! Here’s where you’ll find the HEART BEET scent we designed our announcement around: “Raw, wet beets, pulsating blood musk, and raw wild ginger.”

🫀 Box of Chocolates - Our latest sampler full of treats like WHITE CHOCOLATE AND TARO CREAM are so decadent, you’ll be tempted to taste... but these perfume oils are for external enjoyment only!

🫀 The Amphibian’s Lapidary - Five chromatic variations on our fairytale blend ROSES, PEARLS, AND DIAMONDS, inspired by different precious gems.

🫀 Our Lady of Pain - For the first time in over a decade we’re revisiting “Dolores”, Swinburne’s 1866 poem of tormented longing, painstakingly interpreted through scent. 

🫀 For Entertainment Purposes Only - This 2018 series inspired by popular grownup novelty items rides again, accompanied by ribald illustrations by Drew Rausch. We’ve even compromised our constant “Perfume, not poppers!” messaging by adding a new fragrance called VIDEO HEAD CLEANER. Please sniff responsibly, ya freaks!

🫀 Shunga 2024: Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements - A shining star among BPAL’s annual collections, this series of perfumes, hair gloss, and atmosphere spray is inspired by Edo-era illustrations of adults enjoying themselves (and each other) very adultly. 

If all this has left you feeling dirty, please also note that a major Bath Oil restock occurred simultaneously with this update. So get your mind out of the gutter and into a steamy tub where it belongs. Consider inviting a friend!

Happy Lupercalia season, everyone! 🔥🫀🔥

A new book project called ANIMALIA is being Kickstarted by Century Guild,  and we've created a perfume blend that can be added onto any pledge tier for $20/each:

DRACO

"Come not between the dragon, and his wrath: a rolling crack of Daemonorops draco and red peppercorn, billows of incense smoke, honeyed Cambodian oud, blackened oakmoss, flame-gold amber, a delicate membrane of leather, and a curved, sharp sandalwood claw."