Vega

Sniffed: Light and "perfumy". On skin: The blend opens with a sharp, slightly sour tang, then calms down into ozone with a touch of sweetness. I adore the humid, water-laden ozone note that is in Lightning/Parsifal/Sea of Glass, so I was a bit surprised (and a little disappointed) to discover that the ozone in Nowhere in Particular is much colder, thinner and drier -- truly like fog instead of rain. There is the faintest breath of sweetness that must be from the apples, but it's indistinct; I don't smell any dust/stone note. The blend tends toward thin and astringent -- in fact, this is the first BPAL blend that I can label "perfumy" in the "drugstore-alcoholic-perfume" sense. It also has a tendency to morph into something sour and salty on occasion. Over time, the fog/ozone recedes and the apple note emerges, but the scent remains faint. Verdict: I must say, Nowhere in Particular does resemble its name: it's rather obscure, weak, and not interesting at all. And it has the dubious honour of being the first "perfumy" BPAL I've smelled. Even though the ozone note here is quite fitting, I can't help but be a little disappointed in this blend.

Sniffed: Slightly sweet ozone. On skin: Humid, wet ozone, and gentle, non-floral sweetness that must be the grasses and woods. Thunder Moon has a hazy, fuzzy quality that is reminiscent of a hot summer storm, and puts me in mind of thick, black thunder clouds looming over infinite prairie. The ozone dies away over time, and the grassy-sweet flavour emerges. The scent occasionally strays into "perfumy" territory, which spoils it somewhat for me. An uncomplicated blend, but lovely in its simplicity. Verdict: Ozone is one of my favourite notes, and Thunder Moon is an evocative variant containing sweet grasses and woods. But there are better ozone blends out there, and while I'm glad I got to test this, I don't see myself wearing it much.

Sniffed: Nutty, slightly foody. On skin: The same: nutty, slightly foody. Where are the other notes? Verdict: Man, what a disappointment! I was hoping to get something a bit more complex -- even a hint of juniper, musk, and/or flowers would be welcome. But Cristina is nothing but a one-note chestnut blend. Seems like other reviewers get the same. Mehhh. For swaps!

Sniffed: Rich and juicy-red, very decadent. There's a whiff of Snake Oil. On skin: I got my decant from a circle in August. When I first tested it, there was a lot going on -- a melange of spicy, woody, dry, berry-sweet, smooth, rich -- and I didn't get a strong scent impression (nor any Snake Oil). But now, four months later, Tombeur has aged amazingly: so much depth and complexity has emerged, and it is now coming into its own as a distinct scent. The creamy, slightly dry-dusty Snake Oil base is definitely present, but made smooth, full-bodied, and glowing red by the other notes. It's more complex and subtle too -- while Snake Oil screams "sexy!" (fine by me!), Tombeur whispers "seduction" in an alluring, dangerous tone. Colour impression is live, pulsing, crimson blood. Tombeur is also like the sister of Schwarzer Mond: both are dark, deep, slightly dusty blends. Schwarzer Mond is dustier and black, while Tombeur is lighter, red, and smooth. Verdict: I was thinking of swapping my decant, but no more. Nope. Tombeur is here to stay, on top of being a great variant on Snake Oil, it stands on its own as a blend too.

Sniffed: Moss and incense. Dark and solemn, but not heavy. On skin: Very evocative: Silenti definitely embodies mysterious, aloof, mournful, elusive, and darkly beautiful. Or a still, moonless night in a peaceful, forgotten graveyard. The myrrh and olibanum form the deep incense base, heavily infused with damp, lush moss. I can't smell any flowers, though they must be lending the lightest breath of sweetness and/or spice. This is a darkened incense blend, unisex tending towards masculine, with a subdued but distinct presence. Colour impression is lush, dark green moss upon weathered dark grey stone. Verdict: I've been very impressed by the Vampire scents -- they really embody their namesakes. I like Silenti, but in a detached kind of way -- it's calm and enigmatic, but not something I would wear. I'm glad I got to test it, though.

Reviewing the 2009 version. Sniffed: Simultaneously cold and mentholic, and coconut-sweet. On skin: Man. Yet another casualty in the string of casualties trampled underfoot by rampaging MINTzilla. Snow White doesn't suffer as much as the others -- I can actually smell something that's not mint! -- but it's a ruined scent. The coconut/floral sweetness clashes with the skin-warmed, mentholic weirdness that my skin chemistry turns mint (and snow, apparently) into, and becomes something aharmonious and not pleasant. Definitely not the chill, snowy, vanilla/coconut that other reviewers are raving about. Verdict: Arrrgh... why do I keep trying snowy/minty blends when I already know mint just ruins everything it touches? I'm so sad about Snow White. Even though she's not obliterated by the MINTzilla, she's disfigured beyond recognition. Alas.

Sniffed: Gentle, vanillary sweetness is overshadowed by a dark note that smells of decay and bitterness. On skin: I initially smell the gentle, creamy sweetness of orchid vanille, but then it's overshadowed by clear, bold and unfriendly florals so bitter that I wonder if there are also herbal notes here. Regan is overall a corrupted dark floral, a blend jangling between sweetness and bitterness. There's a sick note in here that reminds me of decay and is a bit nauseating. Verdict: In a word: discordant. Regan is a sinister blend and makes no apologies for it; whatever good or sweetness in her is ultimately corrupted and darkened. No, I don't like her at all and won't keep her around. Hrmm. I read 4 pages of reviews, and wow, my experience is very different from everyone else's. Maybe I got a dud imp...?

Sniffed: Sweet, dry vanilla, mingled with a wetter, slightly green-floral that must be sweet pea. On skin: Huh, this is nothing like Antique Lace. Vanilla and perhaps amber contribute a gentle, slightly dusty, sweet base, but the blend is dominated by a wet, heady green note that must be the sweet pea. The other notes morph in and out, but they never really overcome the juicy sweetness. Verdict: What a letdown. I was looking forward to smelling a variant of Antique Lace, but Mouse's Long and Sad Tale is nothing but sweet pea with hints of the other notes. My reviews are usually more detailed than this, but this one skin test was so disappointing that I frimped my lab-fresh imp shortly after. Sigh.

Sniffed: Juicy, happy mandarin orange. On skin: Carnal initially goes on my skin almost like orange candy: bright, bouncy and bubbly. The fig emerges with drydown, and for a while the two notes mingle in a fascinating juxtaposition of sweetness. Fig tends to get too intensely sweet for my tastes, so I'm disappointed that it eventually dominates, and the mandarin orange is relegated to merely embellishing the fig. Nevertheless, Carnal is a great blend: simple, bold, cheerful and lusty, perfectly encapsulating its name. Verdict: Even though the fig was the dealbreaker, I really enjoyed the contrast and tension between the two sweetnesses: innocent, peppy orange versus earthy, sensual, almost dirty fig. (And fig dominating the orange... there must be some innuendo in there... ) Very carnal indeed! A pity I'll have to pass on it.

Sniffed: A lush burst of flowers and cold water -- unfamiliar flowers that are colourful and intense! This scent actually smells blue. On skin: A very watery floral, but like no other. If this is rhododendron and bellflower, they are very intriguing notes! Danube is bold and lush, it has an intense presence but remains airy and lively. The florals threaten to become perfumy on rare occasion, but the aquatic note keeps that at bay. What's most amazing about Danube is the imagery it conjures in my mind. Usually I just get a colour impression for a blend, but Danube evoked swiftly running water, with golden sunlight sparkling off the waves and little flowers swirling in the current. (I actually heard the sound of running water when I first skin-tested it - incredible!) Most aquatic blends remind me of deeply flowing rivers or vast oceans, but this is a gurgling, swiftly running, merry little brook. Indeed, the colour impression is equally vivid aquamarine and royal purple, flecked with gold and silver lights. Verdict: Wow! Danube is very unusual, one of the few blends that stands on its own and defies placement in a scent family. (I found Kumari Kandam and Niflheim equally unique. All of these Wanderlust blends too!) But not only is it intriguing, I also like wearing this joyful, uplifting scent. Perfect! It's not quite worth a bottle, but I definitely will be keeping my imp.

Sniffed: Very much a green floral, laced with water and grass. On skin: I'm not familiar with tulip and peony, but I like this distinctive floral scent, with aquatic and grass notes giving it an airy clarity. Amsterdam is a simple grassy, watery floral: it really does remind me of little ponds and fountains leaping into a blue, sun-filled sky. It is also bold and peppy: while Endymion and Helena (similar watery florals) are dreamy, romantic maidens, Amsterdam is the spunky maiden running through the grass, revelling in the spring showers. Colour impression is a pale, translucent green with a touch of pastel blue. Verdict: Attractive variation of a pure floral, but pure florals are ultimately boring. There are much better floral-mix blends out there, so I don't see myself wearing this much. ETA: See how many times I can use "floral" in a review!

Sniffed: Dewy green-white floral with a hint of pear. On skin: Endymion is a green floral: gentle, dreamy, and romantic. Very much like Helena (both have lily and rose) and Amsterdam, but what would otherwise be a boring "conventional" floral is given an extra layer of complexity by the pear and white musk. The pear adds a gentle fruity verve to the dewy flowers, and the musk grounds it and gives it a slight fuzziness. Endymion is balanced and well-behaved, if subdued, as most florals tend to be. Even so, it has a touch of melancholy, wistful longing, with more character than most florals. What a difference those two notes make! I agree with all the above reviews that describe how evocative and romantic this blend is. Verdict: As a pure floral, Endymion is definitely more interesting than most (such as Helena and Amsterdam, which I skin-tested together), but I find pure florals somewhat dull. I'm unlikely to wear it much since there are better floral-mix blends out there.

Sniffed: A fruity-floral that manages to be dark and frazzled, perhaps musky? Yes, that's what I'm smelling. On skin: Oh my, this blend really embodies "Regret born from ceaseless longing." Vampire Tears is clear, fruity sweet/tart and spicy floral, but also darkened and heavy. In a word, "depressed". I can make out grapefruit, neroli, ginger, and some florals contributing to the spicy/tart/sweet blend, but I wonder what is darkening it -- jasmine, wisteria? tonka? Regardless, this is lugubrious and somewhat stifling. (And today's skin test is actually pleasant; my notes and memories from previous tests say that it was much more oppressive.) Colour impression is a clear green-yellow splattered and scribbled through with black lines. Verdict: Not only is Vampire Tears the most chaotic, clashing scent I've sniffed that still smells like a perfume, sniffing it actually evokes psychic disorder in my mind. It may be a success in capturing its description, but I don't like it at all and won't be keeping it.

Reviewing the 2006 version. Sniffed: Very deep, sweet, warm wood. I'm guessing there is cherry pipe tobacco in there too. On skin: Deep, warm, solid woods brightened by syrupy cherries. The cherry recedes over time, and the tobacco and leather become more apparent over the wood. I don't recognize any linen. Herr Drosselmeyer is deep and masculine in its woodiness, but I think a woman can still wear it as a comfort scent. It is comforting and warm (if a little bit heavy), but also contemplative and a bit scholarly. There's a sense of ancientry that is steadfast and ennobled, not weighed down, by the years. It feels like being in a warm and well-lit ancient wood cabin in remote snow-covered mountains. Colour impression is the deep, woody-red lacquer used in Chinese furniture. Verdict: A very evocative blend indeed, but it's quite heavy and masculine, and I don't see myself wearing it even as a comfort scent. Even so, I'm very glad to have spent some time in the presence of Herr Drosselmeyer.

Sniffed: Patchouli and woods dominate to make this deep and earthy. On skin: I was afraid of this. The Clod and the Pebble is dominated by the patchouli I don't like: obnoxious, pungent, glowing, overwhelming all the other notes and any potential nuance or complexity in the blend. (The same patchouli was in Rakshasa and Masquerade.) There is a hint of sweet fragrance from the rose otto, and woodiness from the sandalwood and cedar, but the most they do is embellish the patchouli. Sadly, the scent remains the same over time. This is a bold blend without nuance, depth or complexity. Perhaps the other notes are contributing to the whole, but it is ultimately too much for me. Verdict: I've accepted that patchouli is one of those hit-or-miss notes on me, but I'm still disappointed that The Clod and the Pebble didn't work out. Straight to swaps it goes.

Sniffed: Light, gentle florals with a dewy touch. Reminds me a bit of Water of Notre Dame: The Passionate Shepherd is a similar watery-green floral. On skin: A combination of gentle, sweet florals and dewy greenery that is almost aquatic. The florals are more prominent, a bit perfumy but still well-behaved; I can make out the rose, and perhaps the carnation. Beneath the florals is wet greenery that's a bit mossy, a bit grassy. Over time the watery greenness fades in and out, whilst the florals gradually become more perfumy and "hazy" in feel. This is gentle, light, and sweet, but much like a conventional perfume. Verdict: Meh, I'm indifferent. The Passionate Shepherd to His Love is lovely and romantic, but he doesn't stand out or give me compelling reason for loving him. The aquatic green would make it more interesting, but unfortunately those notes aren't too consistent. Furthermore, the first time I tried this blend, it turned into unpleasant, sour, decaying damp grass on my skin. Thankfully the Shepherd smells much better this time, but I'm a little wary of that changing mood. I think I'll stick to Water of Notre Dame for my preferred green-aquatic floral.

Based on a venerable French pontifical incense blend: monastic frankincense and myrrh, Damascus rose, Russian gardenia, cassia, and lily of the valley wafting on a chill Autumn wind. A celebration of the glory and suffering of the saints and martyrs of the Church. Reviewing the 2004 version. Sniffed: Incense, with a warm, nutty note that I can't quite place. On skin: Deep, solemn frankincense and myrrh, mixed with the bright clarity of the florals. All Saints' is very similar to The Ecstasy of St Theresa, except that it also has a prominent orange-brown, nutty note that wafts through the entire blend. I'm not sure if it's cassia, the "autumn wind", and/or something not listed -- but whatever it is, this nutty note does really evoke autumn and the season of Halloween. All Saints' is warm and solemn floral-incense, pious yet grounded deeply in the autumn season. Over time the nutty note fades in and out, allowing the clear-but-deep floral-incense to emerge. I suppose that is the autumn wind indeed, blowing through with reminders of the season... Colour impression is a dark, rich maroon touched with a strong shade of nut brown. Verdict: All Saints' is just like The Ecstasy of St Theresa, just with a nutty, autumnal note -- which I don't really like. I'm a little disappointed, but I have the Ecstasy and won't miss swapping this.

Sniffed: A bright and hazy, citrus-like herbal, heady like too much sunshine. On skin: If I had to describe Mag Mell in non-scent terms, it would be "golden sunshine". What a heady herbal blend: hazy, thick and enveloping, with a slight citrus touch. I think this "golden" vibe must be coming from the amber/verbena/ginger. Green grass shows up after drydown, adding a fresh zest to the otherwise warm, enfolding blend. Colour impression is brilliant sunny gold bleeding across sparkling green; it really does feel like lying in a green meadow under blinding but cozy warm sunlight. Mag Mell grows more grassy and herbal over time, slowly losing the golden warmth. (I never get any rain, sadly.) Unfortunately the blend occasionally manifests a dry, sour citrus note, which I suspect must be the lemon verbena acting up, but this is unpredictable at the whim of my skin chemistry. Verdict: Mag Mell is very evocative, but it's a bit too hazy and stifling for me, and the temperamental verbena doesn't help. If there was a bit more rain and coolness in this realm, I would like it more... but I may have to pass on this blend.

Sniffed: Deep woods and rich florals, a glowing and red scent. On skin: Oh, this is a splendid melding of deep, pious incense/woods (with the slightest herbal feel) and soaring, lush flowers. The frankincense/agarwood/amber ground the blend and give it a solemn, holy depth, while the flowers -- too blended for my nose to distinguish -- give it an airy, clear fragrance that doesn't go powdery or high-pitched at all. In fact, these florals feel "red": richly fragrant but without the propensity to get high-pitched and dominant like "white" florals do. If this is what iris, chamomile and gardenia smell like, then I like them! The scent remains constant over time and doesn't morph much -- thank goodness! It resembles All Saints' (glad someone upthread agrees), and seems like a richer, more "mature" version of Lady Lilith despite having really different notes. Colour impression is a glowing maroon. Verdict: Ah, I love The Ecstasy of St Theresa -- not a Top Ten, but definitely for keeps and constant wear, and maybe a bottle in time. This is a perfect depiction of a religious ecstasy: soaring euphoria mingled with holy reverence. Beth has perfectly captured the essence of the sculpture and spirituality in scent -- and I love the blend!

Sniffed: A full, rich floral with a bit of a herbal feel (which may or may not be imagined). On skin: Lady Lilith is a complex, rich floral with hints of spice and fruit. (No more herbal.) I think the musks and florals are contributing to make a sweet, full-bodied blend; even the mandarin and vanilla don't stand out but add to it. It's beautiful, gentle and sweet all around, perhaps a bit hazy from musk. Colour impression is red with a definite pink tint. Very womanly and feminine, but not girly. It reminds me of a beautiful, chaste and noble lady, a lady for a chivalrous knight. Yup, just like the Salon image... Verdict: I would love Lady Lilith... if she wasn't so similar to The Ecstasy of St Theresa (despite the very different notes). And the Ecstasy has a woody depth, clarity and mystic feel that I simply like more. Alas that I have to say no to Lady Lilith because I already have a first love in this rich/red-floral category... truly, it's no fault of hers.

Double posting because this is a separate rec: For those who are missing Corazon, I find Copper Phoenix almost identical. Perhaps it is a bit lighter, a bit less full and red, but given that they have quite different notes it's surprising that they're so similar.

Going by this picture, it looks like your cousin has Beth's Blue Moon.

Okay, I'm real bummed that mint, my dealbreaker note, ruined Pink Snowballs by swamping out whatever vanilla/rose there was in the blend. But I hold out on the vain hope that there is a rose/vanilla blend that resembles Pink Snowballs but without the mint. Anything like that in GC or LE? Or is this but a vain hope?

I classify Black Opal as a "sugary vanilla", and other sugary-vanillas are Tombstone and Antique Lace. All three are variations on a theme: dominating vanilla plus other notes that make it interesting. More distantly related is Dorian: it also has sugary-vanilla, but it's less dominant to me.

I second Black Opal. Also The Antikythera Mechanism and Lyonesse, maybe Dorian. And Snake Oil, if you haven't already! Liz is also a gorgeous smoky vanilla, but unimpable.