VioletChaos
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Everything posted by VioletChaos
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In the bottle, I get the tart passionfruit I was hoping for- YUM! Wet application, and also warming up- the brûlée comes out to play but to me it's a kissing cousin of the custard note in my old favorite 'Weenie, Huesos de Santo. I am delighted about this and hope it stays around for a while! Dry down- good lords, this is so yummy! I was also curious about the 'burned sugar'- that it might become caramel or something. But nope, it stays true to its name. In all, a vary tasty confection of a scent (don't lick it!!!)- a delicate custard with an equal parts tart passionfruit and burnt sugar. Low throw, a good anytime scent as the days grow longer and warmer.
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In the bottle, I get a vague fruit that I'm guessing are the cloud berries and also a bit of that lemon. Wet on skin and warming up, the lemon intensifies (nice!) and some of that ambergris enters the equation. I also start to get a little of the amber musk in the mix. The cloudberries have vanished? Dry down- the lemon mellows and sweetens, aided by the amber musk I think. The combination reminds me ever-so-slightly of the Lemon Meringue doll from the Strawberry Shortcake collection, circa 1982. Do NOT misunderstand- I'm not saying this smells like candy, or synthetic-chemical-y at *all*. There just the right level of sweet gentleness to the lemon at this stage that reminds me verrrrry slightly of my old friend L. Meringue. The ambergris and musk then step into the primary roles, though the lemon is still definitely present. The cloudberries, alas, have left the building. Very delicate, low throw scent. Another unusual Luper for me with this year's crop, and I'm digging the unique vibes. It's welcome that after nearly two decades of obsessively following BPAL that they can still surprise me!
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Full disclosure: I got this only for the chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum Moon is a long-time favorite, so let's see how it all pans out here! In the bottle, I get that nice bright lemon peel straight away! That's the majority of it. Bringing up the real are little tendrils of the vanilla, which is softening the lemon to give it a creamy hint at the end. Wet on skin and warming up, the scent starts to really bloom, and that dear chrysanthemum is now in play- hooray! In fact, all the guests have arrived at the party, but I'd say the balance has definitely shifted and it's the chrysanthemum that is front and center now. Dry down- Wow, this is turned out to be incredibly well-balanced. I can detect all four of the elements here, and they sort of tumble over each other, so first I'll snag a little of that lemon peel, and then the sandalwood comes in and then dips out and the 'mum takes the spot, etc etc etc. It's don't think I've got another scent like it, and that's incredibly exciting to me! In all, a low-medium throw, and a sultry, lightly spicy warm-weather scent. Dead sexy- I will be wearing this for many date nights in the months to come
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In the bottle, I mostly get the tart juice of the lychee, a short sharp crunch of the rock sugar followed by a little sploosh of the nectar (as has already been mentioned, the strawberry nectar is NOT the same as the fresh strawberry note of, say, this year's Strawberry Moon and its Duets. This is softer, sweeter and accurately described as a nectar for those reasons). Wet and then warming up on my skin, I, too, am getting that strange whiff of anise in the mix that doomsday mentioned. It's not overpowering and it's not like "oh hey black licorice!", so don't worry about that. For me it's literally like the rock sugar was flavored with anise seed. I'm totally flummoxed and have no idea what could be reading that way, except perhaps an undertone of the lychee? It's keeping things interesting to say the least! Drydown. Okay, this is downright bizarre. The 2008 version of Huesos de Santo, a beloved old 'Weenie of mine, had both anise seed and sugar glaze as listed notes, and that scent produced an element that is near identical to this...whatever this is in here. It's more what I was saying before, like anise-seed-flavored rock sugar. I guess there's some molecule in the lychee? Anyway, I'm into it! In all- low throw, vaguely sweet but not in an over powering way. I definitely get the 'love bite' intention with this scent. Not a big ol' hickey but a little nibbled stain over by the ear lobe, and I'm all for it
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In the bottle this scent is HEAVY on the ruby chocolate note, which is exactly what I was hoping for, as I've loved it in other Lab confections previously. Wet on skin, it warms and opens up, so that some of that specific tart-fruity quality of the chocolate note really starts to shine, and I'm very excited about it! As we hit drydown, the Snake Oil starts to assert itself, but less than it sometimes does when mixed with other notes. Here it's unmistakable in its presence, but Ruby is still definitely the star. In all, a soft medium throw (but given my personal history of Snake Oil and its variants, I'm betting that will get stronger with some good ol' fashioned aging); a creamy, chocolatey confection that doesn't cross over into legit "foodie" territory because of the SO keeping everything in check. I anticipate this will become quite beloved
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Strawberry Moon: Wild Strawberries and Inky Musk
VioletChaos replied to doomsday_disco's topic in Duets & Menage A Trois
In the bottle, I get the fresh, tangy strawberry note of my very cherished Strawberry Moon 2009 and I couldn't be happier about it. Wet on skin, the scent begins to deepen and some of that Inky Musk introduces itself. The combo of the two is as compelling as I'd hoped for, neither stealing the spotlight from the other. Dry down: Calling this musk "inky" is incredibly accurate- this is NOT a black musk on me, this is literally a 'musk+ink' situation, which is what I was hoping for. It's not like the Lab's India Ink note, either, though- this really is its own special thing, so don't be worried about the metallic or chemical aspects of Ink in this mix, because that's not present here. In All- a low to medium throw and a very well-balanced fruit and musk scent for the warm months. I agree with the above review that this will layer well with the Wild Strawberries and Patchouli Duet and I feel certain I will *also* be layering this with its own 2026 Strawberry Moon counterpart to bring even more tart berry to the party. Total win. 🍓 ❤️ -
In The Bottle: I get the violets (less 'sugared' and more 'candied'- a seemingly small distinction but the Lab's sugar note is incredibly specific, and a combo with Violet I'm very familiar with because Faith is a long-time favorite). I also get hints of the jasmine and a hint of that myrrh reading very incense-y at this point. Wet on skin and then warming up, the scent starts to shift and bloom. The rose emerges, very fresh, like it's just been cut from the bush in a garden, that edge of green clinging to it. The combo reminds me a bit of Marie, another classic violet/rose pairing. Of course, all these other notes are in the mix too, so hang on, 'cause we'r not done here Upon dry down, the above notes settle more into themselves, warming and blooming further. I get just little hints of the jasmine and cypress, and the orange peel brings a touch of citrus but is in no way sweet or fruity. In all- I get a low throw but definitely dab sparingly until you see how this reacts with your personal chemistry: part of the charm of this scent is that while it's bright and clean-smelling, it's not soapy in the least. I've noticed over the years that when Beth interprets scents related to Italy that there's a certain touch she brings to them. It's not anything I can point to specifically, not a particular note or what have you. But the vibe is there. A lot of my heritage is Italian and there's something about the interpretations meant to be of that part of the world resonate with me in a very particular, personal way, and this is no exception. A light, delicate blend of non-cloying florals and a citrus incense that will be great throughout spring and summer ❤️
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Jean Veber Pumpkin cream, honey, vanilla sugar, and smoked vanilla bean. In The Bottle: sweet, creamy vanilla and scratchy vanilla bean, with a breath of pumpkin. Yum! Wet On Skin: the pumpkin comes out a bit more and the honey with it, warming the scent up a bit. Dry Down: A beautiful, light pumpkin ice cream! In All: low throw, a sweet, gentle scent. Not too foodie. Perfect for daytime wear throughout the fall. Total keeper!
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In The Bottle: Oh, YES. coconut. Coconut like "slow-cooking coconut oil" kind of coconut. Wet On Skin: More of the same. This is just what I was hoping for. Dry Down: A beautiful, dry, yummy coconut. It's not terribly sweet or even terribly foodie. It's a rich-but-light coconut, like unsweetened coconut flakes or that simmering low-heat coconut oil I described before. It's the coconut I was hoping to get with Obatala and just...didn't. In All: low to medium throw, this scent can be worn just as it is for coconut fans like myself, or you can totally layer this with other scents- I'm already plotting how it'll do with last month's French Vanilla! I am SO glad I got two bottles!!!
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Idle Moon: Coconut Milk and Rice
VioletChaos replied to doomsday_disco's topic in Duets & Menage A Trois
I can't believe I never reviewed this. I pulled this gem out of figurative mothball storage and put it on today based on the whim of sniff from the bottle. A LOT was happening in my life last summer so I forgive myself for not paying close enough attention to this gorgeous scent last year, but I am SO glad to rectify the situation now. This goes back to the Dark Ages of BPAL but honestly what this scent reminds me of most is my cherished Tarot: The Star. The only element that differentiates the two is that the lime note from that one is not present here. But the rice and the coconut bring the same qualities of calm delight and quiet joy. The coconut is indeed a "cool" variety, not sunbaked or suntan-lotion-y in the least. The rice note is understated as well, not foodie- more like rice paper than milky or even grainy. The collaboration of the two makes for a scent that stays close to the skin but lasts, melding with my natural skin musk and smoothing out all the rough edges of a regular day. I am really, really happy to have rediscovered this lovely little scent. ❤️ -
[No additional description provided.] In The Bottle: That's a whoooooole lotta labdanum! Wet On Skin: This is reading like a sweet labdanum single note. If it stays this way, I won't object- I wouldn't mind being in possession of such a thing. I can always layer it with "O" if this continues! Dry Down: The honey comes out a teeeeeny bit. But really, this is the Labdanum Show, with your host, Sweet Labdanum. This note, being the rich little minx that it is, ages quite well, and my long term experience of the Lab's various honey notes is the same. I wouldn't be surprised if the honey doesn't really shine in this until, like, six months from now. But even if it just lurks in the background, I'm satisfied with having a really good labdanum "single note" ☺️
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Dusky plum oudh casts a pall over frayed strands of green cognac and tobacco leaf. This tangle of threads is stained with a smear of patchouli and opoponax and intertwined with vanilla cream lace. In The Bottle: The plum is sweet and bright right out of the gate, followed by a hint of that green cognac. That's all I get at first. Wet On Skin: The oudh settles into itself, becoming a bit more rich, but not incense-y as I had expected. The vanilla cream lace is juuuuust beginning to peek out! Dry Down: Siiiiiiigh. This is everything that I hope any in the Lace series to be: filling me with a painful nostalgia that haunts my longings and releases all my beautiful ghosts. It's sweet and dusky and gorgeous, no one note standing out, all working in gorgeous symphony. Like stepping into a sitting room full of silver print photographs and dried flowers in cut crystal vases.
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White sandalwood, white sage, East Indian patchouli, muguet, golden frankincense, and Balsam of Mecca. Some of the notes in here can be a little iffy on me, but I'm hoping that the Mecca, Sandalwood and Patchouli can balance it out for me. Let's have a sniff! In The Bottle: A bit of patchouli, but not the dirty variety we saw in Occupy Wall St.. There's a nice subtlety here. It's also got some sweet balance with the sandalwood, which is a similar type to the one found in Tombstone. Sweet and desert-y. so far so good. Wet On Skin: Mmmm. This is warming up now, and becoming something rather personal, and sexy. Not overt sexy, like with Smut. That subtlety is continuing, holding the frankincense in check and making this rich and commanding- a scent to draw someone in- and keep them close Dry Down: This is total win. Soft enough for daytime, but personable enough for an evening affair, this is literally hitting all the right notes. In All: Low to medium throw, Pteropus is a scent that crosses all gender boundaries. I predict this to be the sleeper hit of the bats- when the luster has faded from the others, this may very well prove to be the most sought-after of this year's Bat's Day scents. Keeper!
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In the bottle: I was expecting mostly coffee, but actually, I'm not getting any. In fact, NONE of the listed notes are present! Mostly I'm getting a fluffy cloud of...sweet cream? 😯 Don't get me wrong, I've no objections, cause it smells awesome. But I'm suuuuuper confused! Wet On Skin, the scent starts to bloom as it warms and now I'm getting the uncanny animal crackers-thing that doomsday mentioned! Not the lemony part of those crackers, but the rest. It's a bit odd, but I'm intrigued. Once full drydown is reached, I get the chicory coming on kinda strong. It reads as vaguely cinnamon-y, which could be a plus for this of you that can't wear actual cinnamon- this could be your work around! On me, the scent is largely a light snickerdoodle scent. I really miss NOLA, so I was hoping it would show up as intended on me, so while this is a perfectly nice winter time baked goods scent, I do wish it had the coffee and beignets in the mix. 😢 I DO have the Guatemalan Coffee Bean single note, and I shall try layering that with this- maybe it just needs a little help to pull it all together for my chemistry
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In the bottle, I get some of the thick, sweet honey I have long associated with O (a scent that I've long felt doesn't get the love it deserves). At this stage, it's just the honey. After application, there's quite a bit of shifting and projecting over the ensuing 5 minutes or so: the throw becomes insanely loud, very briefly, then begins to settle itself down. During that time there's a rapid succession of first the honey, then the amber, then the honey, then the incense...etc etc etc. The morph is dizzying in its speed. 👀 Upon drydown, it all settles into place, the honey pulling back some, the amber creeping forward, the incense grounding the two and preventing any of it from being powdery. Just lovely. In All, a surprisingly low throw given the intensity of the notes involved. Still, considering that brief, enormous burst forward during initial application, apply sparingly until you see how exactly she reacts with your particular chemistry It's funny that this scent has come through the Yules several times over the years but only now am I discovering it for myself. Glad to finally join the party, this is a really nice addition to my winter scent collection!
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In the bottle, this is pretty much all the effervescent champagne, all the time. After applied to my skin, it stays that way for a while, taking its time to warm and bloom. Eventually, some of the musk shows up, adding depth to the boozy note, which is some magic feat (since light musks are...light). I don't get any lavender at this point. Upon complete drydown, I'm left with a lightly sweet, balanced champagne/blush musk scent. No lavender or snow appear for me, alas. In all: A scent for softly snowy days. Low to medium throw, making it a good daytime scent. I'm not sure it's my thing, but for those that love a champagne note, don't miss out on this beauty. ❄️
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I passed on the original incarnation of this scent as I've never been a big floral person. However, after all the long years of BPALing, when I saw the note list for it this time around, I decided to take a chance- and I'm SO glad I did! This sexy, aromatic beast features a jammy rose with spice for days. I can see why folks that tried it years ago were so excited to get their hands on some more. I don't know that the perfume would have been a good fit for me, but as a hair gloss, I anticipate using this a bunch, and it will pair nicely with the many resins, woods and spice-heavy scents that exist in my collection. ❤️
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This is mostly brown sugar and a spicy hint of rum for me. The bottle arrived several days ago, so I thought there was adequate time to rest it, but maybe not. I'd been hoping for a whole lot of banana, but it's only present when I unscrew the top and sniff it in the bottle. I don't mind the coziness of the rum and sugar, but I was really wanting that banana. Hopefully with some additional rest / aging, it'll come more to the fore for my thirsty locks!
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In the bottle, a heady mix of gardenia and cacao- not the powder but something straight from the plant, pre-processing. Decadent, but not at all foodie. Wet on skin, a fresh, green note interjects itself, but it's not jarring, it's like smelling jasmine or honeysuckle on the vine, and then realizing the vine itself it adding to the aroma. Dry Down, the perfume fully blooms. And I mean BLOOMS - this scent has a high throw, so definitely apply sparingly until you know how it'll behave with your particular skin chemistry. The fragrance is hard to place- a rich and fleshy tropical bloom as others mentioned, but also defying exact description. It's some intersection of gardenia and honeysuckle and night blooming jasmine, greenery included, plus the specificity of flower nectar and yes, that chocolatey note- the way rich vanilla bean reads as almost chocolate- and it all comes together to give a vibe like being in an enclosed space- a greenhouse, perhaps, absolutely abundant in blooms, and being completely enveloped in the scent. It's ridiculously beautiful and beguiling, even for someone like me who is typically not such a fan of florals. In all: do NOT pass this Bellflower up, she is worth the hype. ❤️❤️❤️
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Given my handle, it will come as a shock to no one that violet scents are my jam. I'm quite picky about florals overall, but Violet, my dear Violet, she will always have a place in my collection, and this scent is no exception. Unlike many of the other Gorey scents, this one is a bit stronger. In the bottle, it's deceptively mild, a bit of Lace here, a bit of Aldehyde there, the violet a powdery whisper. Once on the skin, though, the real show begins, as the violet starts to show up as soon as she's warmed, and that continues all the way through dry down. This scent, because of the floral and aldehyde mix, might come across as more "perfume-y" than some other scents in the catalogue, even for a floral-forward scent. That said, it still does so with a special flare that only the Lab can pull off, and the poetic prose of the previous poster is apt for the vibes this scent provides, the notes painting a scene that is out of time but also of a very specific one- somewhere between the Victoriana feel of, say, Lady Lilith and the winking macabre of Arsenic and Old Lace. I am delighted to add this to my violet collection. The only question remaining is how many backups to obtain! 💜
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In the bottle, I get a sweet, confectionary cinnamon and a creamy almond (I assume it's 'creamy' because of the vanilla bean paste). As with the other Gorey fragrances, even in the bottle this scent is low-key and more "quiet" than many other fragrances at this stage of the sniffing process. Once applied, the cinnamon blooms some, becoming a bit stronger, and the vanilla becomes less creamy and more like the paste I would expect. The almond shifts as a result , becomes more of a supporting player, but also, now there's something that reads like the almond is roasted? There's nothing in the notes that would indicate it, though if I had to take a guess I'd say maybe it's the influence of the allspice and casting sugar. 🤷♀️ The scent doesn't shift much between warming and full drydown, but this is also something I've noticed seems to happen with the Gorey scents typically. In all, a nice little cinnamon-forward scent. Much lighter than typical cinnamon scents, so if you've been looking for something that isn't overly spiced, this might be a good one for you. I'll definitely wear it around the holidays, and I can see utilizing it as a layering fragrance if I want to add some spice to another scent without overpowering it.
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I love me some blackberry scents and this is no exception. In the bottle and when first applied the blackberry is very tangy and combines well with the thick creamy cream cheese. There is a bit of morphing as it settles then finishes drying down in the skin, and I agree with the poster that mentioned Four and Twenty Blackbirds as a cousin to this Sufganiyot. Where that one had a thick brown pastry crust, this has the trademark Sufganiyot fried dough experience I love. For me, there's room for both in my collection. Some of the tang returns after drydown has come to pass and the end result is a tasty blackberry jelly donut situation that I am pleased to have in my collection.
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In the bottle, this is indeed a milky caramel. Caramel notes sometimes go flat on me, if they're too much about the sugar and not enough something to balance that. If this one holds, it'll become an instant favorite. 🤞 As it warms up, the milk is indeed still present, but shifts toward being a warm-milk-with-sugar situation instead of an integrated caramel as it was in the bottle. It's still good, but not this "oh man I'm going to gnaw my own arm" kind of good. In full drydown that whisper of coconut reveals itself to be similar to the Coconut Tree single note- not suntan lotion and not foodie but more of a dried coconut husk. It's not gourmand, but frankly, I think it's more interesting, providing more gravitas for the other notes. To my astonishment, the fried-dough note that puts the "Suf" in nearly all Sufganiyot blends, is entirely absent here! I don't know if the other notes, being so rich, are somehow shrouding the dough or if it's just not so present in this blend, regardless, it's not really accounted for. In all, a low throw daytime scent that is right at home in any nice gourmand collection and an interesting addition to the Sufganiyot universe.
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In the bottle, I get the sweet fried dough aspect that is a hallmark of all the Sufganiyots, and with that a very candy-ish strawberry. This is not the tart, fresh strawberry of the original Strawberry Suf, nor the fluffy strawberry of the Buttercream variant. This is strawberry licorice whips or Twizzlers. I don't dislike it- in fact I'm impressed, as usual, with Beth's artistry. Who else can create so many variations on a theme and have each one be really distinct?!? She never ceases to amaze me. Once it's warmed and come to its drydown, some (but not all) of the licorice aspect dissipates, replaced with a strawberry lipgloss, reminding me intensely of the sort my friends and I wore in 7th grade, obsessively licking it off so that we could reapply some more. The dough is still present, and while they could seem to be strange bedfellows given my account, they work very nicely together. In all, a low throw daytime scent that is a fine addition to the Sufganiyot family. ❤️
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This scent is such a treat! If Faith and Hope had a visiting cousin whose older sister was TKO...Donkey's Tail would be that scent. Its delicate sugared French lavender after full dry down has been reached, and yet somehow more complicated than that. I agree with the prior review that there's something akin to a touch of peony in the mix and yes, that decidedly *pink* silk as well. It's really a lovely, delicate thing. I of course layered it with its cohort, and I'll copy below what I had to say about it in my other review: LAYERED WITH GLOOMILY, GLOOMILY: The French lavender and vanilla when added to Gloomily, create some additional punch for sure, transforming that scent from something extremely ethereal into a more grounded iteration of itself. The combo also brings out something that, to my nose, smells like a hint of fresh garden rose? 🤷♀️ which is baffling as that's not in the notes. I suspect some magic combination of the rain and thistles remind me of a very fresh cut bloom. Regardless, I'm not mad about it. ❤️ 🌧️