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Everything posted by Lucchesa
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Colemanite Phoenix is a beauty. Dry, pure desert scents predominate here. I recently tried White Sage SN and was astonished by how complex a perfume that single note was; the sage here isn't identical (less perfumey than the white), but it's similarly complicated. It's not your usual dandelion sap either but something more silvery gray than spring green. In fact, the colors of this scent are the silvery gray-green of sage and dusky purple of lupine lit by a sunset. Creosote and borax sound nasty, and I don't think of lupine having much scent at all, but don't let that bother you. If you think you'd like to smell like the tenacious plants that bloom in the desert, don't miss the chance to try this.
- 11 replies
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You Might Be a Daisy is all leather on me. New leather, like a Tandy leather shop or a leather goods stall in Tijuana. Or Elspethdixon has it absolutely right: cowboy/tack shop, not black leather jacket. I had Colemanite Phoenix on the other wrist, but it didn't help me suss out the sage here, and I didn't get wildflowers either. Or smoke or gunpowder, for that matter. Just fresh leather and lots of it, for a good long time.
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I had such an odd experience with Christougenniatiko 2019 that I wondered if my decant had gotten mislabeled. On me, this was primarily fruity. It smelled like the blackberry or blackcurrant note smells on my skin, in other words, like berry candy. There does seem to be an evergreen note as well, but it's subsumed by the fruit. I kept reading through the scent notes to see what could be causing the berry sensation -- opoponax? Never reacted to it like this before. Anyway, I'm hoping to see another review soon to see if anyone else had this reaction or if maybe I was smelling something else.
- 22 replies
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- Yule 2014
- The Phobias
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Testing blind I thought, Opoponax! Or labdanum? And labdanum! And I was delighted at the lovely syrupy dark resins, and this was looking like a bottle. As it dried down, though, something went a bit sour on my skin, either the frankincense or the iron note or the combination of the two. It was never unpleasant, it just wasn't amazing anymore. I think this will age beautifully if it works on you, but I will probably let go of my decant as it doesn't seem to like my skin chemistry.
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Maybe I'm having an off day, or I need to let my decants rest more than 24 hours from the mail, but I Hear You Call, Pine Tree was not terribly audible on me. First there was lotus, then there was a breath of pine needles, really creating the sensation of them floating to me on the wind. Gradually they faded, and within two hours there was silence. No lotus, no pine. I will try again in a couple of weeks. This has real beauty to it if it weren't so faint on me.
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Ooh, Native Gold is delicious. If you love rootbeery blends, you have to try this one. There's soft, sweet tobacco and amber in the drydown; I'm not actually getting much cedar. But the sarsaparilla is still in the forefront, and it's lasting well on me, too. Rugged and cuddly. Very nice!
- 11 replies
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- 2019
- BPAL 17th Anniversary
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Upon Man and Upon Beast is a big, dry, almost camphorous patchouli (akin to the one in Tricksy) with an afterthought of cherry. Which was pretty much exactly what I wanted. The sandalwood is evident behind the patch, but I never do find the opoponax or labdanum. Despite the cherry, there is nothing fruity or sweet about this scent. It's totally gender neutral. No throw, which is pretty typical on me, and maybe a little less than average wear length. Dry, earthy, and kind of righteous, this one feels like a power scent to me.
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After reading the above review, I really wished I had ordered a decant of Hanksite Phoenix. Wait, I did. And I have to agree with most of what z_z says. Hanksite is a bright, charming blend that reminded me of A Boar and a Goat from the 2018 Weenies which also had mandarin and labdanum. (Not sure if labdanum is contributing the effervescence here, but that's the vibe.) Hanksite's lime and ginger add zest, and there's a little sweetness from the mandarin but not much. I'm not sure I ever actually made out the khus. Unfortunately, my skin ate this up in short order. I'll try again in a month before the Anniversaries come down to see if a little aging adds longevity.
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Halite Phoenix has that chewy salt note that I love from blends like Aegir without any troublesome aquatic notes that turn to detergent on me. Salt, sand, sun. It doesn't morph much on me and has decent wear length. Probably good for layering, but I like it all by itself.
- 11 replies
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- 2019
- BPAL 17th Anniversary
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Sorcerer contained way too much dragon's blood for my comfort zone. It's the only note here that really doesn't work for me, particularly in its incense form, and that was primarily what I got here. A little lavender and citrus at first, a little cacao and frankincense after that, but it settles into dragon's blood incense pretty quickly and doesn't budge on me from there. Of course it lasted really well on me. There are lots of wins in the new RPGs for me, but this isn't one I can wear. If you love dragon's blood, go for it!
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My decanter accidentally sent me Californite Phoenix instead of Colemanite; it's not in my usual wheelhouse, but I'm super glad I got to try this one. My experience was quite different from that of Casablanca, though I do concur on the airy musk. I didn't get mint at all; instead, on me Californite was a perfumey green moss blend. I couldn't pick fern out of a lineup, but there's definitely a greenery note here, and fougere is French for fern. This didn't morph on me; it had good throw, which is rare with my skin chemistry, and decent staying power. Elegant green fougere.
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Epidote Phoenix is really outstanding. It's exactly what I wanted Theoi Nomioi to be; it's Golden Priapus without the vanilla; it's like walking into a Pacific Northwest evergreen forest. For my skin chemistry, Epidote is the most realistic and long-lasting forest scent I have tried, and it has a little throw, which for me is a lot of throw. This is totally gender neutral. If you want to embody the spirit of a pine tree, this is perfect.
- 11 replies
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Berzerker is trees, trees with broken branches, trees animals have rubbed against while rutting. There is a faint tang of blood and soft leather, but they are definitely in the background -- don't be scared off by this if leather is not your thing, it isn't strong here at all. Also, juniper is the one evergreen note I shy away from, but in combination with the poplar it is somewhat tamed here, more like "evergreen" than "juniper" or "gin." This one definitely leans manly though I enjoyed wearing it, as someone who often gravitates towards unisex scents. Zanzoku_Zen's "forest musk" is an excellent description.
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The note list for Psionicist starts out like my list of death notes, so I knew this would not work on me. I prefer not to wear mint or eucalyptus, and white musk is usually not good on me either. I can see where this might be appealing if you like these notes. It's not sharp or mentholic, more cool and a little otherworldly, and it lasted well on me.
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Oh yes, Monk could totally be a Shunga. Aren’t there Japanese erotic stories about misbehaving monks? The sandalwood incense note is tied to earth with the honey and saffron. This has good staying power too — I can even still smell it after showering. Really nice.
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Mitral Valve starts out, as nearly every lavender scent does on me, with a strong blast of lavender -- here a honeyed lavender. As it dries down, the lavender recedes in place of juniper and cool musk. There's an herbal backdrop of hops, but I never really get much carnation. The lavender fades quickly, as it always does on me, leaving a honeyed herbal evergreen, soft and lovely. I'm going to try this decant as a sleep scent and see how it works.
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2014 Magnificent Autumn. This is green leaves with snapped stems and dry leaves crunching underfoot, with a little smokiness and very little sweetness on me. It's really beautiful but quite fleeting on my skin, and since it scratches the same itch that my bottle of October does for me, I'm going to let this decant go to someone else.
- 34 replies
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- Halloween 2018
- Halloween 2015
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2019 Dark Pumpkin Mead. This is yummy. Wet, it's buttery caramelized pumpkin with a hint of maple syrup. As it dries down I get a hint of the fizziness and fermentation of the mead, and the spices begin to emerge, but it's never an in-your-face pumpkin pie spice, it's quite mellow. I really like this -- it's warm and comforting -- but it's not a category I actually wear very often. If you love Dwarven Ale, you must try this.
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Wax Cylinders is lovely and belongs to the beeswax/candle genre I enjoy, with Lights of Men's Lives, Hanerot Halalu, etc. There's no smoke here, just subtly honeyed beeswax as the predominant note, with gentle leather and woods backing it up. Elegant and gender neutral, this is a beautiful addition to this category. Wear length is a little less than average but this one is worth reapplying.
- 13 replies
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- Halloween 2019
- Order of the Dragon II
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The dominant note for me in Southern Cloudywing is mate. This may be the first BPAL I've tried with this note, and it's quite realistic. As it dries down I get orange zest and tonka but I'm not getting much cardamom and my skin tends to devour the tea note. It really seems to be a mate blend. Interesting but not quite my thing.
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Wow, no one has reviewed this for a LONG time. I have a bottle of Melainis, bought second hand. It is very smooth, lovely dark resins and musks, a hint of fruit and caramel and clove, though I couldn't make out the anise which was specifically what drew me to this scent. Teak always goes in a caramel direction on me, so I expected that to meld with the caramel note, but everything has aged together into a whole that expresses dark, sweet longing rather than the individual notes. It wears close to the skin on me, no throw (not unusual for my chemistry).
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Assassin is pretty great on me. Sweet, sexy leather -- I would say that while still unisex, this is one of the more femme leather scents I have found in BPAL. The pitch is low-key when wet and stays very much in the background. Good wear length on me and a little throw, which is good on my skin. Really nice.
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Artificier (my imp has an extra i) definitely smells like it would be right at home in the Steamworks collection, somewhere between Galvanic Goggles and Robotic Scarab. It's bright, unisex, not specifically metallic on me. There is probably some ozone in here. I like it. No throw, which is typical for my skin, and wear length is only average or a little less on me.
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Chestnuts and Hearth Smoke was in my stocking this morning, and frankly I'm struggling to find the chestnuts. Roasted chestnuts is possibly my favorite smell in the whole world, but here I'm getting lots of that hearth smoke note, similar to the fire-red tobacco in Orion or the fireplace smoke in Hearth 2017, which is not the best smoke note on me. It softens nicely but wears very close to the skin. I was really hoping for a blast of roasting chestnuts. I will give this some time in hopes that the chestnut note will develop with a little aging.
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The Butterfly on me is a bright, sharp bergamot with amber and some chewy petitgrain. I'm not sure I'm finding the tonka at all. It's funny, my first BPAL love was Alice, with milk & honey, carnation, rose and bergamot, and it's looking like the only one of those notes I can reliably wear is carnation. The others are all iffy on me, and my taste has gotten darker and more unisex. Here the bergamot is just too bright and high-pitched for me. It's better after about an hour as it all settles down into a kind of citrusy warmth, and it's definitely an upbeat scent, but it isn't me.