theredkilt

I get a blast of yuzu and apple and something aquatic. Waiting for the yuzu and apple to calm down to see what pops up next. Little by little i sense something rising up evening out the apple and yuzu, i think it's the tobacco/ incense base. It's slowly warming up and giving way to the Osmanthus, which registers to me in texture as a white floral.  The osmanthus is very well behaved and blended. A clean floral fruity blend.

This reminds me of the Chicken-Legged Hut GC probably due to the labdanum. The rose is so faint i can barely sniff it out. Everything is well blended to the point that no note stands out particularly.

There's a shimmering pink citrus sensation upon opening and i'm under the impression it's grapefruit. Further on, the orange blossom, pops up and asserts itself. The orange blossom leans more towards neroli smell-wise, vaguely with a bitter-ish/vegetal end. But out of the blue, the mango steps in and evens everything out. It's a mango-orange blossom/mimosa-pink musk type of scent on my skin.

I get a a briney, salty, medicinal smell and nothing else. Must be the oud. *sad face*

I'm greeted by a tame and well blended red musk. I like how the red musk acts in this blend, it's the fixative that keeps all other notes on its shoulders. So far so good. Next up, i get a melange of tea, teak and frankincense. Nothing stands out particularly, it's just that good. Reminds me vaguely of Anteros, only better and not as intense. This would make a good scent for those who are averse to red musk.

Poet's... echoes strongly Zorya P. I think Poet's is a bit more transparent, fluffier and easier to wear. If i didn't own Zorya P., I'd gladly bottle this. 

I interpret the blend the following way: a tobacco fuzzy mellow dry base intertwined with unsweetened plum. The lily doesn't register to me.

Freshly applied i get peach enveloped in a cloud of freshly ironed laundry steam, i guess.The peach here is not juicy sweet and as time goes, i pick up more of the steam accord. The peach goes MIA and I'm left with the a white pinkish haze of non-sweetened cream and lotus. Smells like a skincare product, like "peach and pink lotus petals" body lotion 

In the beginning, it's a grassy bitter green freshie. After some time the tea note comes out while the jasmine is pretty faint. A green tea/ patch / forest fae like scent

I get a honeyed chrysanthemum (herbal) tea. The sweetness is gravitating between the candied lotus root and white honey.

The snow note here is sharp, icy and a bit sour, like in Prague or Morning at Fuschlsee. I smell the pear and sharp icy sour snow. After some rest, the sourness subsides and the blend comes into itself. A gentle icy sweetness, possibly the honeyed green tea  element, with fruity undertones from the plum and pear. 

This is an unexpected hit. Sweet cassia powder mingled with oily myrrh and gentle curls if red musk. I smell no vetiver or dragon's blood. This could be Chimera's brother or sister but with a cassia twist. Love!

Fresh dewy green rose,  low-key soapy and constantly making its presence known, and a bit vegetal from the sap. 

Freshly applied, the wild lettuce smacked me in the kisser 😵‍💫 reminds me somewhat of the Lab's green grass note. Later on the crazy lettuce note significantly died down and the white honey emerges. The white honey gets stronger and on final drydown i get a white honeyed aura with very faint touches of green bitter lettuce in the background.

This gives me some Tom Ford Black Orchid vibes.

The black musk-tuberose-vanilla-truffle combo is so smooth and addictive. A truly bewitching scent!

After it has aged for more than 10 months, Leon blooms on my skin into soapy incense-like champa. The white tea and other notes are MIA. At least the champa flower has settled and no longer screams in the bottle.

Lab Frimp: grapefruit tinged with neroli or orange blossom and musk?

The neroli/ orange blossom come out later prominently.

Bram Stoker

Foolish and Vacuous 

This is a very dainty, refined and floral clean scent. I get the unsweetened coconut and the jasmine. The rice milk and almond give off this powdery cloudy base. Not sure where cardamom and ti leaf are. I expected more oomph from these Courtesans, a bit more subdued debauchery. As it is, it feels more like Courtesans relaxing and applying make up.

I get a very gentle translucent honey glowing on my skin. I don't get the cheesecake or matcha. Feels more like a perfume from the Lupercalia Honeypot serie.

This is a white rose, similar to the one in Herbert West, with the green elements, reminiscent of the one in Venus Murcia, amped up around the edges. The green leaves stop the rose from becoming too dewy, but some dewiness lingers. 

All in all, it's a white rose dipped in green musk.

I get a buttery pie crust with no lavender or coconut in sight. Later on the lavender comes out and renders a cool breeze quality to the drydown. The coconut is kind of weak and it's more of a very vague suggestion. I wouldn't even know there was coconut had it not been listed in the scent description.

I get the milk note and the gingerbread cookie note, not necessarily in equal amounts. Looks like the gingebread cookie wins over the milk note. The blend is slowly evening out and i finally get a mental picture: a freshly milk dipped gingebread cookie. The gingerbread cookie smells like a real freshly baked one that had some to cool off, while the milk adds an extra layer of milky sweetness and texture. The gingerbread cookie note, notably the spices, gradually assert themselves over the frothy milk.

Tobacco flower is the most assertive note on my skin. It reminds me of the cherry tobacco variety. Lavander shows up in the beginning but then disappears.

I've smelled something similar before, most likely in another Yule blend from the early to mid 00s.

Beautiful warm sweet leather echoing the one in the Black Rider but slightly subdued. I get no blood, poplar bud or juniper.