galahad
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Posts posted by galahad
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Hoîru
in Lupercalia
In the Bottle:
Musk and tea with a soft backing of coconut
On the Skin:
Initially quite harsh with musk and tea but the vanilla comes out very quickly to smooth things out. The tonka is a support note but the suede leather emerges as a gorgeous element mingling with husky patchouli.
On the Drydown:
This is nice but has been outshone by the other Lupers. At the end of the day it's a nice warm leather and musk with a sharp astringency from the tea leaf. I am hoping it will smooth out with age
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In the Bottle:
Lovely honey and rich, dry oudh
On the Skin:
A little slow to warm up, as you would expect with a resin heavy scent. The oudh is so awesome. It is an element I love so I may be super aware of it. Smells like an old wooden box polished with sweet polish.
On the Drydown:
The vanilla emerges just a little to add some weight to the scent but overall it is a close to the skin sweet oudh. This is a golden, warm and comforting blend. Outrageously decadent in an understated fashion. Multiple bottles should be hoarded. -
In the Bottle:
Tonka, musk and a very faint tint of cinnamon
On the Skin:
Surprisingly light and sweet. Mostly tonka and a sweet, light musk. The leather emerges gently soon after application.
On the Drydown:
This almost has a lemony vanilla vibe to it with slight cinnamon backdrop. The fig emerges eventually and that is when it becomes magical and almost gourmand. Close to the skin.
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In The Bottle:
Slightly boozy subtle rose and vanilla
On the Skin:
Pretty rose and vanilla. The booze notes in the background giving some depth. Almost a banana vibe. The leather comes out to play a little and makes this a little more grown-up where previously it had been a little candyish.
On the Drydown:
I definitely like the drydown better as the scent becomes drier but still with the roundness of the vanilla keeping from becoming too astringent. The rose is pretty and subtle and gets a green edge to it as it dries down. I don't get much tobacco, per se, but it is there with it's peculiar dry sweetness. Becomes decidedly boozier on the deep drydown. I like it a lot.
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In the Bottle:
Definitely vetiver but smells nice and smooth. Very woody
On the Skin:
The mahogany oudh is the note evident at first, not the vetiver but the vetiver kicks in pretty quickly. I do pick up on the musk as well which keeps this from going too earthy. The shadow musk is really lovely and cool. The patchouli (and it is a lovely smooth patchouli) is late to the party but more than makes up for it.
On the Drydown:
Everything merges so well in this blend while each element still retains a distinct presence. The shadow musk is the master stroke, elevating this blend to dark, night-cool elegance. Although, if you are a vetiver-phobe you might want to avoid.
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White lavender and ambrette seed, grey patchouli, rum absolute, and vetiver.
In the Bottle:
Rum and lavender with a faint ambrette whiff
On the Skin:
Rum and lavender. Almost cakey sweet. Ambrette always reads as grey to me so with the grey patchouli and white lavender this is definitely a muted (but strong) scent only warmed by the rum. The play of the rum and lavender together almost gives an anise vibe.
On the Drydown:
This has massive throw. It's not a happy scent but rahter broody and melancholy. The lavender is strong! and at times almost takes over but the rum always reins it back in. Eventually the vetiver creeps in and turns an already grey scent ashen. Masterful and lovely. A perfect winters day scent. -
In the Bottle:
Not sure how to describe this. Very lovely and inviting in the bottle. I think the cashmeran is throwing me off
On the Skin:
Such a beautiful and elegant scent, almost fruity but not. Deeply musky. The dryness of the black amber and patchouli emerge after a few minutes but never fully take over. The tobacco adds a husky edge. Just outstandingly elegant without being thin and sharp-edged.
On the Drydown:
Definitely drier but the cashmeran keeps it from becoming dirty. Becomes a little more animalic further into the drydown. A warm and elegant scent and sure to age well.
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In the Bottle:
Deep and faint. Definitely patchouli and musk
On the Skin:
A wonderful, if faint, earthiness to start with. It's all dry, dusty dirt (not a bad thing, for me) which very slowly sweetens up with the honey and musk. The juniper and oakmoss become soflty evident. The ambrette gives a grey overlay. Very subtle and beautifully earthy. This is a grower not a shower.
On the Drydown:
At times on the drydown this smells of hot concrete in a brief summer rain shower. It has a deep amber glow to it without having amber in the mix. It's not until well into the drydown that it gains any kind of throw and even then it is subtle. Absolutely gorgeous and sure to be a spectacular scent when aged over a few years.
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In the Bottle:
Wow! Definitely purple. Candy purple. Kind of sweet
On the Skin:
The beeswax is immediately evident and the purple note becomes definitely rose (somewhere between rosewater and full on rose). The tobacco is just in the background
On the Drydown:
The beeswax really amps in the drydown (and I LOVE the lab beeswax note) and a whiff of smoke darkens the rose (which is still purple). Just stunning and such a different rose experience.
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In the Bottle:
Smells like a fine fragrance. Very slightly smoky and strongly tobacco
On the Skin:
Surprisingly light (as in not dark). The honey note is making this somewhat powdery, in a good way and the leather is not overpowering but definitely gives a rich edge. I can't pick out cinnamon particularly until later on.
On the Drydown:
Really lovely and slightly unsettling. Very dry with a sharp powdery edge. The leather darkens and the cinnamon peeks through just slightly. Pretty gorgeous
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In the Bottle: Smells so good in the bottle. I am loving the tobacco incense note off the bat. I love the lab rum accord and can pick that out too
On the Skin: This is definitely a warm and golden scent. It is sweet and the mahogany adds a dry and rich woodiness. It reminds me a lot of Mahogany Hall atmosphere spray. Overall, sweet and resinous verging on gourmand at times but never fully.
The Drydown: This seems to have great throw and lasting power, as you would expect from the resins. It has a spicy and elegant oriental feel to it. Definitely multiple bottle worthy.
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In the bottle: Overwhelmingly frankincense with a dry touch of patchouli
On the Skin: Surprisingly the vanilla kicks in early to tame the frankincense and a few minutes into the drydown lets the leather, champaca and patchouli shine through. Overall this has a rich ritual incense vibe. Definitely an autumn/winter appropriate blend. It is a strongly fragrant blend but doesn't seem to have a lot of throw in the early stages.
The Drydown: The clove doesn't peek through until well into the drydown and it is pretty subtle but adds a delightful warm spiciness and petitgrain becomes quite prominent on my skin in waves, disappearing now and then. The blend becomes quite dry and dusty in the extreme drydown. The leather is restrained. I love this.
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In the bottle: Strongly lavender but backed by a high white musk
On the skin: This starts as pretty much straight lavender with a greyness to the background. In no way is it bright. It doesn't take long for the asphalt (more like rain wet concrete) to emerge as part of the lavender rather than a separate element. This is never spiky and I credit the oudh in the mix acting to round out the blend. I agree that this is a melancholy scent and would be perfect to wallow in on a gloomy day.
The Drydown: This softens dramatically on the drydown to become a close to the skin soft and slightly sweet lavender, remaining grey, cosy and intimate. It is one to share with hugs with loved ones rather than with a room full of strangers.
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In the bottle: Patchouli and honey, very slightly reminiscent of Snake Oil
On the Skin: Initially the patchouli backs right off, leaving earthy fig, deep oud and a general sweetness which is slightly fruity. The whole is quite gorgeous and not as strong as expected. A few minutes into the drydown though and everything ramps up in volume which is great. This is up front and centre patchouli but the supporting notes transform it into a thing of beauty.
The Drydown: There is a note that gives the whole the quality of a fine perfume and I am assuming the loukhoum is responsive because this is a very different patchouli blend from the lab. I find myself constantly sniffing trying to identify exactly what makes this so amazing but have to come the the conclusion that it is the sum of the parts rather than just one element. If you are dead set against patchouli this may not be for you but if you are on the fence this could be your breakthrough patchouli blend. I need a couple of back up bottles to cellar.
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Chant d'Automne
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In the Bottle: Fir and cologne with leather
On the Skin: This smells like a Lush shop. Not a bad thing, necessarily. I get fir and lavender (strangely) but that could be the chaparral influence. There is a slight smokiness and the depth of the black amber starts to exert some influence a little further into the drydown, starting to round out the scent.
The Drydown: The leather doesn't really start to peek out until well into the drydown and it's a new leather rather than the beloved BPAL aged leather note. I'm not one to ascribe gender to a scent generally but this one falls firmly into the masculine camp. I'm going to love this once age softens the edges.
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I never considered this one back in the last CD incarnation so I was determined to try it this time around.
In the Bottle: Nice creamy floral with a purple incense
On the Skin: Cotton candy, incense and white flowers. The florals emerge a little further down the track and rather than being creamy they tend to be sharp edged (I get a similar sense of hard edged floral from Snow White and Black Lace). This reminds me so much of my beloved Black Lace with more sweetness.
On the Drydown: Definitely Black Lace on steroids and it might actually knock BL off it's prominent place on my most loved. I do find this scent a little unsettling which is not necessarily a bad thing. The incense note is particularly lovely. Will age it for a while and see how it goes. I'd like it to smooth out a bit.
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In the Bottle: Definitely vetiver and I can pick out the coconut as well with a grounding of snake oil
On the Skin: Initially the vetiver is surprisingly light and the play of the black coconut with the snake oil and an extra boost of vanilla is delicious! The vetiver does come out to play a little more as it dries down and the whole is unexpectedly perfumey in a good way (Smokestack this is not).
The Drydown: The vetiver certainly plays a feature role in this but never gets out of control. This is not a tame creature but it sure is beautiful. All of the elements promise spectacular aging.
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I love the snakes and I never grabbed a bottle of this one back when CD was last live although I did try a sample and vowed to get a bottle when the opportunity came up.
In the Bottle: Can just make out the SO in the background but it's mostly frankincense and champaca
On the Skin: The frank and champaca bloom pretty quickly but so does the snake oil to tame the rawness of those 2 elements on their own. 5 minutes in this really starts to show it's true potential with the sweetness of the vanilla and sugarcane nicely balancing with the resins and the herbal hyssop (which is faint to my nose).
The Drydown: This goes through a bit of a roller coaster ride with the snake oil and the resins alternating dominance, sometimes dry opopanax and frankincense and sometimes smooth rich snake oil. I never detect labdanum specifically (a component I love) but I am sure it is playing a supporting role. I love this and like all the snakes it will age to perfection (my 2008 Western Diamondback bottle is just coming into it's own right now).
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Bow and Crown of Conquest is a snuggly vanilla-leather on me, but the sage and lavender notes might make it more herbal/masculine than you're looking for.
I think Bow and Crown also has cedar which I cannot wear...and it's a shame too because there are so many beautiful blends out there with it
I probably should have mentioned my aversion to herbal notes too, haha thanks for reminding me!
I just remembered - one vanilla + leather that doesn't work as well on me but might on you is Western Diamondback (Snake Oil with leather, tonka, and sage). The sage isn't very noticeable, and while Snake Oil does bad/medicinal/patchouli-ruins-everything things on my skin, I'm a rare Snake-Oil-hating exception and most people adore it and smell awesome in it.
I second the Western Diamondback. And aged for a few years it is beyond amazing
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In The Bottle
Myrrh, musk and lavender
On Application
The lavender and olibanum are really quite strong and overpowering initially. Surprisingly, don't get any rose.
Dry Down
Once this settles down it is quite nice. A fruity sweetness with a touch of rose and incense.
Rating (0-5)
3
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In The Bottle
Vanilla, musk and rum
On Application
The above with the emergence of vetiver as well. Quite rich and complex
Dry Down
Hmm...this one is quite surprising. I really like it. It has a lot of depth to it. Smoky, boozy and dark.
Rating (0-5)
4.5
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In The Bottle
Softly herby with some florals
On Application
Floral and herbal
Dry Down
This started off as quite heavily floral but softens to quite a lovely soft floral and hay-like scent. Nice but not particularly to my liking.
Rating (0-5)
3
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In The Bottle
Herbal and lavender
On Application
Lavender and smooth chamomile with a slight fruitiness
Dry Down
Really pretty. Smooth with some depth. I definitely get wafts of tart and fresh currants occasionally and the play of chamomile and grapefruit gives a kind of mintiness. Lovely and the changeability of the scent is very Cheshire Cat-like
Rating (0-5)
4
Cave of Treasures
in Lupercalia
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