VioletChaos

In the bottle, that sweet oakmoss is right at the front. I have to sniff a few times before I pick up anything else, but eventually I notice an edge of the orchid in there.

Wet on skin, the scent immediately starts to shift, with the benison coming out to play almost immediately. As the fragrance continues to warm, further layers start to unfurl, blossoming outward- the ambers sweetening the scent, and the balsamic in particular is adding an interesting twist, in the same way that balsamic vinegar adds sweetness without being at all sugary (this is precisely what I was hoping it would do, so I'm delighted that it has come to pass!). 

Eventually the narcissus peeks out adding an interesting acrid undertone that keeps the scent from veering into cloying territory. Strangely, in spite of the name and ingredient list, I get no hyacinth on me. I've used pure essential hyacinth oil, so I'm familiar with that version of the scent- if it's in here it's either buried by the other notes or else my skin ate it. Anything is possible! However, even without the Princess Herself showing up for me, this scent is really, really lovely, one of those perfumes that's so well-blended that the individual notes blur entirely, creating a melange that's just its own beautiful, singular entity. And just in time for spring!

This scent is low throw, but dense, so I'd still go easy on application until you see how it plays with your personal chemistry. 

Pure resin-filled love! ❤️ 

I'm a fan of violet, (if you couldn't tell from my screen name) and that alone grabbed my attention here. The addition of vanilla and bergamot plus the intrigue of..."what exactly does porcelain smell like?!" and I knew I had to snag a bottle.

the scent in the bottle is deceptively floral, with that iris singing lous and clear- don't be fooled, she runs off upon contact. That's when the changes begin.

First, the trickle of red musk here seems to be the same variety that stole my heart in Random Brothel, and I'm definitely not mad about it. Second, that violet leaf is more violet flower from what I can tell (the leaf tends to be quite 'green' smelling, whereas I'm definitely getting violets in this mix. The bourbon vanilla bites back the acrid note of the musk before it can get too intense or stuffy.

And the porcelain? Well, several minutes after application, I kid you not, there was a moment where the scent smelled mostly of...wet clay. Yep. Straight up, 'throwing on the wheel' clay situation. It was strange and, as an artist that has played with ceramics, strangely comforting. And then it was gone, to be replaced with the violet / musk combination. Chalk it up to one of Beth's genius "how does she DO that?!" moments, and marvel for a moment. 
Then enjoy the rest of what the scent has to offer  

The mango comes on strong in the bottle but starts to fade upon contact with the skin. 

The scent changes rapidly, passing over the orange blossom completely, alas, and ending up a lightly spicy, vaguely incense-y pink musk, reminding me very much of the phlox-heavy Pink Moon.

I'm in love with the Lab's mango note, but unfortunately for me, apart from in the bottle, it's nowhere to be found 😢 

I splurged on two from the Roses and Pearls line, and this is one of them (the other being Rubies). Neither had disappointed, but Roses, Pearls, and Sapphires may prove to be my favorite, not just of this mini series, but Lupercalia 2024 as a whole (apart from the triumphant return of Glowing Vulva, but c'mon. That's a whole other realm.)

In the bottle, the lavender rose (the 'rose' is a formality- this reads as lavender to my nose) and blueberry play elegantly together in a surprisingly delicate dance. Not that either note is known for being so aggressive, but I've certainly encountered scents where one of these two could be quite loud given the chance. 

Wet, then warming, on the skin both notes blossom and unfurl some, with lavender gently edging blueberry out for top spot, for a spell, until the coconut husk comes to reign lavender back in. "Husk" is important here: this is NOT coconut-coconut. Not the candied coconut or suntan lotion coconut you might be anticipating, so you must do away with such notions immediately. This is the scratchy, earthy bit outside of all that and here it has the not-insubstantial task of grounding this scent, to keep it from all floating away, too high, into the stratosphere. Only after husk and fully done that task does the cerulean musk stroll in, and not a moment too soon.

I've been on a big ol' blue musk deep dive for about the past year, and it was THE note that made me snatch up a bottle of this here elixir and it does NOT disappoint. Every blend I try a blue musk variant in is wildly different than the last, so there's no direct comparisons here, except to say that I continue to feel vindicated by each new exploration into this lesser-known entry into the musk family. 

It's not a mistake that nearly all the notes in a scent with "Sapphires" in the name would have a blue allusion, but here its especially overt, a sparkling blue gem of a scent, it has a shine and hardness that align it with the crystalline icicles of late winter, but there's also a warmth here that slinks in once the scent has settled in completely, something to snuggle into when the ice outside all seems a bit too much.

The red wine is strong with this one!

When sniffed in the bottle, all the way through to complete drydown, the red wine note is front and center. The note itself is one I've adored in the past, in the old-time Yule treat, Glüwein, and so I can only hope that this will age just as magnificently as that one has. 

There *is* quite a lot to hope for with this blend, notably the oakmoss and mandarin notes, which both play the part of insuring this scent is not a one-note wonder, even if they are working more or less behind the scenes. (I've tried one-note wine scents and they come across more or less as fussy grape juice, which is definitely NOT what's happening here, by the way.) Oakmoss is a note I personally love, adding a rich, vaguely sweet and unusually spicy depth. The Spanish mandarin is not here to lend a foodie tone, but rather a bit of tart acid, which brightens the scent and keeps it from getting lost in a sticky haze.

Hours later, and it's still going strong: a little goes a long way, both with staying power and with throw, which is definitely one of the highest I've encountered: dab lightly until you know how it'll bloom on your skin.

The end game is a languid and sultry drift into sweet oblivion, whether you leave enticing traces behind you during a leisurely stroll, or on a silky pillowcase after a decadent sleepover. Whichever path chosen, you'll leave them wanting  

If you took the yummy baked goods note from my most beloved Crumpet Rebellion and added in a healthy chomp of rhubarb, you come pretty close to getting the gourmand delight that is Rhubarb Custard Muffins. In the bottle and freshly applied, this scent is VERYY heavy on the tangy, tart rhubarb. It takes w while to settle into anything more balanced, and frankly, I'm glad for it, because the fresh, sharp aspect is a lovely surprise as we ease out of the darkness at the end of winter and into lighter, brighter spring. Once settled in, the scent takes on a lovely second stage, joining the ranks of other great baked goods fragrances for those of us that like to sometimes smell like we are completely edible.

If you are looking for a foodie scent for daytime wear, or if you have a special place in your heart for the old BPAL greats like the afore-mentioned Crumpet Rebellion or Blackberry Jam and Scones, then you will be quite excited to add this to your repertoire. 

Full disclosure, as soon as I saw that rhubarb was in the mix, this bottle fell directly into my shopping cart, but I also was definitely worried in equal measure about rose being a dominant force in this blend, as roses and I have an a tumultuous relationship over the long years. so now you know. Onward!

In the bottle, I am immediately surprised, pleasantly, with the dominance of the red amber and labdanum. At this stage its not overpowering as labdanum can sometimes be. Instead it's sweet in a non-sugary way, and resinous but not overly intense.

Once warmed up and dried down on the skin, the scent becomes more of a melange: the labdanum is still the front, but even less aggressively than before. The rose peeks out, but it's the incense aspect that is actually more present than the floral here. I get little whiffs that indicate the dried strawberries here, the tang of the rhubarb there. (Side note: not mad about the subtlety of the rhubarb here, partly because the slivers of tartness feel appropriate in this blend overall and partly because I picked up a bottle of the Rhubarb Custard Muffins which are GLORIOUSLY and INTENSELY an ode to rhubarb and flaky pastry, so I feel both ends of the rhubarb scent spectrum have been thoroughly satisfied with this Luper update  ).

Once the scent had fully and completely settled into my skin, the scents has morphed a bit further, becoming, in the end, a spicy sexy scent that has a low-medium throw that allows, with careful wear, to use during the day, like a smexy chastity belt secreted away under a corporate suit but, worn with a touch more reckless abandon, transforms easily into nighttime debauchery at the drop of a hat...or any other clothing item your devious heart desires  

 

Frost-dappled night-blooming petals, Oman frankincense, champaca orchid resin, and opium tar accord.

 Oh. Oh MYYYYYYYY.  

To be honest, although my interest was piqued instantly when I read the notes, I also was concerned. Frost? Is that going to be like water or ozone? Because those notes almost never work with my skin chemistry. And the champaca could go either way. But the opium tar and night-blooming petals had my hopes up.

And it paid off!

In the bottle, I noticed right away that the scent was lighter than I'd expected given some of the notes but also given this was a Bloodmilk scent, since many of the ones I've tried tend to be very dense and rich and moody (just like their jewelry!) but this really was quite light, and even slightly powdery.
As the scent warmed up and then fully dried on my skin, it just got better and better, those florals mixing gorgeously with the tar and resins to create this dreamy encounter, reminding me somehow of a passionflower incense I adored in high school. 

I have not been able to stop huffing myself and it's literally hours and hours later. 

Total, beautiful, win.

 

Creatively, my dance card is full owing to my next solo show happening in May, but I wish y'all the best and can't wait to see all the gorgeous creations to come out of this talented crew! ❤️ 

I got this entirely because of the cerulean musk, as I've become fairly obsessed with blue musks in the past year or so, AND, It definitely does NOT disappoint in this regard! 

In the bottle and when freshly applied, the orchid dominates- the flower is almost...juicy...somehow in its depth. I was a little worried about that floral before ordering but I find in application that I'm intrigued more than anything. It settles back pretty quickly and the amber, plum and musk all move into the foreground together. I definitely feel this to be the same plum note as appears in Mme Moriarty but the vibe here is *completely* different, so no worries of overlap or repetition for sure. The ivy isn't out front but I get the sense (scents!) she's keeping everything from heading into hippy-girl-incense territory and instead elevates the whole party to a sweetly sexy affair instead. 

I am *supremely* delighted to have gotten this and can't wait to see how it ages!

Seconding the claim of "sexy"- this scent is sexy as hell in a somehow casually understated way. There's also something in here that, on my skin, makes it a very close cousin of Night after about 30 minutes. I'm deeply perplexed because there's not a single note of overlap between the two scents, and the note in question in Night is the inky musk, and there's nothing in Blizzard that seems like it would come close to that, and yet, there it is.

I've no objections over a sexier version of Night, since that scent is one of my ride-or-die fragrances, so that just makes me love Blizzard that much more.

This. Scent.

So. My past experience with pomegranate notes has been extremely hit or miss. Fruit notes all too frequently go full plastic on me, alas. Even when a fruit doesn't go off the deep end, I'm lucky to get anything other than fruit candy(ish) from the equation (Strawberries Moon and Suf notwithstanding).

But there's that Ink to consider.

Full disclosure: if you've ever wondered to yourself, "Who the HELL was interested in an India Ink Single Note, anyway?!" allow me to introduce myself, for *I* am that person. I am *SO* that person that I have BACKUP bottles of India Ink single note (and if you've got any you'd like to pawn off? I'm your person, right here  ). I don't know if it's so easily explained just that I am, in fact, a visual artist (a visual artist that also ::collects:: bottles of ink at a rate only out-paced by my BPAL collection, thankyouverymuch) but regardless, the ink note is one of those extra-special BPAL mysteries that makes me go, "How does Beth DOOOO that???"

So, you know, I knew I needed to try this at the very least. 

The scent won't be pinned down. When I first sniffed it in the vial, my heart dropped a little cause all I was getting was a vague olfactory sensation of Red Vines. 🤷‍♀️ 

But shortly after application, that ink, that glorious, industrial (to use Failmingo's term) ink: it took me right back to that love-at-first-sniff experience I had when India Ink SN first waltzed into my life and stole a little piece of my dark, smudgy heart.

Even after full dry down, there's so much vacillating between the two points, and no settling between them! Each sniff bring s different countenance, a different configuration on the grayscale (bloodscale? That would be closer in truth, given the two notes. Hmmm...): one sniff, it's almost entirely pomm, with just a hair of metallic ink showing up as an afterthought. The next sniff, 90% ink, the fruit adding just a touch of sweet to smooth out those harsh edges. A sniff after that, and the two are in balance- or, if not in balance then at least in something resembling an uneasy truce.  

But every step (sniff?) of the way, I. Can't. Stop. Smelling. Myself.

So, you know, I'll be getting me some backups for sure.

❤️ 

I'm always surprised at how radically different notes can be with small variations. The pipe tobacco in this is a RADICAL departure from, say, the blond tobacco note of Pinched With Four Aces, or the French Tobacco Single Note. I sometimes amp tobacco, so I was hesitant about this, but I also was feeling a pang of regret for having swapped my OG 2004 Hearth a bajillion years ago, so I wanted to give this update a try. And the scent does NOT disappoint. The tobacco and cherrywood set the stage for the tone of this scent, which indeed invokes feeling of warm coziness in front of a roaring fire. I in fact get a vibe more in line with the scene being set in a comfy, quiet study or private library, floor-to-ceiling cases completely filled with well-loved leather-bound volumes. A note about the leather: on me, in this blend, it's virtually non-existent, which was another surprise- given that leather notes far too frequently become a HAI I'M TANNED HIDE affair, drowning out all else. The smoke note is a mid-range, omni-present aspect, adding substantially to the overall effect and general ambience, but not overpowering the blend, merely adding a welcome extra dimension.
After full dry down, the scent has morphed little, merely settling a bit more firmly into itself. I'm going to play around with my decant a bit more in the next month: if it ages in a way that deepens the scent, I will likely spring for a full bottle. If not, I will happily pull my vial out when the mood strikes on an especially cold or snowy day.

6 hours ago, goddessrobyn said:

we did 5 things... generally "Spring" themed... one thing had to be an actual gnome in whatever form... one thing had to be "shiny" or "golden"... one thing was plant/garden/earth themed... one thing was a written thing (generally speaking a book but didn't specifically have to be)... I can't remember what exactly all else...

but I felt like it was fun and we did it after the first of the year so after all the holidays were done and people were starting to get back to normal life... which seemed to be good timing for random mail joy

I just put my little gnome on my altar from the last Gnome Swap! I thought it was a really good one and I'd be psyched even if it didn't happen til March or April  

I am simply delighted with this latest Lace acquisition. Normally, I amp leather notes, so I was wary, but willing to try for my beloved Antique Lace's sake, and I'm really glad I did. In the bottle and through to dry-down after application, the dominant note is a rich caramel. I get *zero* leather at any point, but that caramel is warm and creamy, like the best caramels are. Even at the height of caramel's power, though, is the Antique Lace shining through. A.L. increases as caramel begins to slowly, slowly pull back some. Hours later evidence of the caramel note is still present, but quite faint, while Antique Lace's power remains in that gorgeous, lingering way it has.

Most surprising of all to me, is that the formulation of Antique Lace present in this Batty edition is MILES closer to the OG I've missed for so very long. I am a fan of the 2017 re-release, don't get me wrong. When I travel I have 2017 with me, to help me sleep at night. But it always rested on my skin in a way that I can only describe as..."sugary". There's a granulated sugar element to that version that OG never had on my skin. And this Batty-ed up version doesn't have that granulated sugar in it either- especially remarkable, considering that *caramel* is a primary note in the composition! 

In all, as I stated at the outset, I am simply delighted with the latest Lace, and I'm going to re-test in a month or so- if it goes as I think it will, there shall be back up bottles in my future!

A decadent, sultry oakmoss and sandalwood chypre with black velvet amber, russet musk, and ambergris accord.

In the bottle, the oakmoss in an especially 'green' aspect is the primary note I get, and there's something lurking in the background that reads as a thin, cologne-heavy tang, that, looking through the notes, I cannot for the life of me pick as one, unless it's a seriously debauched bit of the black velvet amber.

It doesn't matter a ton, because as soon as it hits my skin and warms up, it morphs *dramatically*, becoming warm, and rather sultry. The sandalwood is sweet and resinous (that's where the "chypre" part comes in- take note! This is not your typical astringent, woody sandalwood!). and it's this note that becomes the star of the show. Not that the scent is without depth- on the contrary, the amber and russet musk (NOT a red musk, so don't expect that, this is definitely a different animal) both act as great supporting players. Because of the nature of some of these notes, I anticipate this is going to get better and better with age.

This scent has a solid medium throw, and that's with only the smallest drop applied from the lid, so definitely tread lightly until you see how it reacts with your chemistry- a little goes a long way from my experience here.

In all, a lovely, deep scent for those that like sweet woods and resins- a must-have. ❤️ 

I got this because I needed to know what "violet grapefruit" could possibly smell like and I'm so glad I did! This is one of the more unusual scents I've encountered in a good, long while, in all the best possible ways.

In the bottle and when first applied, the grating-bitter-tart aspect of real grapefruit pith is front and center, and while I wasn't sure I *liked* it, I was suuuuuper surprised, yet again, at Beth's level of genius. Seriously: who ELSE can create something as specific to the natural world as grapefruit pith? That's some next level shit right there. 
Once the scent had a chance to warm up and dry down, it shifted to include the flesh of the grapefruit (still bitter, but now with an edge of sweetness added in) plus the mimosa comes out to play, which I was definitely glad to see, because I've not, until now, found a mimosa that actually reads like my favorite Seussian puff-flower of summertime. Once deep into the drydown the cerulean musk joins the party, making this scent a complex, slightly sweet yet sinister fruit-floral as prior reviews noted.

Although it only shares one unlikely note, Bringer of Evil reminds me, at least in spirit, of 2009's Black Butterfly Moon. They share a lightness that confuses the senses by obscuring the darkness that lurks beneath- and while I let that old chestnut slip away, I won't make the same mistake this time!

"The remnants of a dream laying softly on your skin: somnambulant lavender and orchid incense suffused with red labdanum, champaca orchid, patchouli root, champignon, Italian bergamot, and white oakmoss."

In the bottle, and when first applied, I mostly get a rather astringent lavender, some of the bergamot, and a touch of the white oakmoss bringing up the rear.  But after the scent has had a few minutes to meld with the skin, it blooms into something far more warm and rich. It's not heavy, like a blanket, but more like a soft length of cashmere that one can wrap around themselves repeatedly, being left with a feeling of comfort, but not encumbered. 

The lavender becomes more of a supporting background note while the orchid incense and labdanum join the oakmoss to becomes the primary players. They all play so sweetly together, after another 15 or 20 minutes, the scent morphs further, so that notes become only part of the whole, impossible to pick out any longer as individuals. 

The oil has a low-to-medium throw and a sexiness that invites closer contact. A "skin" scent for sure, and so aptly named. 

In All: This might be one of my favorite Bloodmilk scents yet!                                                    

I got this as a frottle in my most recent order (thanks, Puddin!  ) and it's the first bottle of them all that I decided to test out immediately! 

In the bottle, it's very soft, though not like baby powder. Like if orris root had a cousin that was a bit more sweet and slightly earthy. Maybe it's sweetgrass? Despite my years (YEARS! Fifteen, in fact) of wearing / using / testing BPAL, there are still some notes that I can be surprised by. It's one of the things that keeps me coming back! So, if this IS sweetgrass, it's much more milk and less obvious than I would've anticipated.

Wet on my skin, it's warms very quickly. As others mentioned, this scent stays close to the skin, and with this warmth it emanates, I feel like that just doubles down on it being a skin scent. 

Drydown happens a bit more quickly with this scent than with some others, but since my own natural skin chemistry leans toward "spicy", that may account for how quickly this scent acclimated to me and made itself right at home. It's become a warm, spicy, woodsy scent. Very gender neutral, which I'm always in favor of. I get zero leather, which is a relief, as I normally amp that note to the exclusion of all others in any given blend. This is warm and cozy enough that I'd happily wear this all winter so that all my snuggliest sweaters might smell of it for months after. But the spice does lend a deep, sensual sexiness that I'm finding more and more beguiling the longer I scent it on my skin.

Lastly, I will say that, for me at least, there's an...aura, for lack of a better word...to older Lab blends. It shows up in alot of the original Tarot scents, for instance, but elsewhere, too. There's a signature that marks them all as belonging uniquely to the Lab- and this scent is no exception. It's something I deeply appreciate and it adds to the delight I'm experiencing with this scent that much more.

What a treasure!  

13 hours ago, twilighteyes said:

Switch Witch is happening.  

I literally cannot WAIT. (Also, I'm in Paris until early September- just sayin- someone might get lucky  ) 

Just chiming in that I, too, have really, really missed a good ol' fashioned Switch Witch. It's been AGES since there's been one of the proper 2.5 month-long ones. The epic planning and plotting and stalking...I miss it so much! I hope ringleaders are able to rally- but only if they will actually enjoy it! (Twi, I'd definitely miss you, but fully understand if you just don't have the spoons for such an undertaking anymore )

I agree with the assessment of an amber-vanilla combination as mentioned above. Also orris, for sure, providing some of the deep background dry-powder aspect. And unfortunately the dryer-sheet thing is spot on as well. 
Perhaps it's my skin chemistry or the fact that I lived through the 80's and came out worse for the wear. Whatever the reason, this isn't the kind of musk that can work for me, sadly, though listen to the folks above- if their descriptions appeal, you're likely to be interested in this scent as they are!

The copy reads: "Pay your respects with steaming rivulets of black and green tea dribbling across black crepe and memorial lilies." 

 I'm honestly not sure about this one yet.

Tea scents on me tend to be light, vaguely lemon-y and a bit astringent, in a lovely, bracing springtime way. Unfortunately for me, I don't think the lilies are playing in my favor. It's sad but true: a good many florals simply don't work with my skin chemistry. Alas, the lilies here seem to be turning toward the mini-soaps you find in fancy bathrooms on me and safer still, the black crepe has gone directly to ozone-ocean-salt on me, do not pass Go, do not collect lovely smellies on the way around the board. 

I do wanted to love this, but also knew that half the notes were risky for me. Sometimes the risk pays off but...not this time

Off to the swap pile!

Oh, myyyyyyyyy. 😍

For those who are lament missing out on Random Brothel - or those among us that fell head over heels for it- here's something in a very similar wheelhouse. Despite the appearance of both black plum and raspberries, this is no fruity -or foodie- scent in any way. Rather, the inclusion of those notes act as grounding and sweetening, respectively, but it's all very behind-the-scenes. As a swoon fan of the Lab's Indigo Musk note, I knew this was one of the new Singularity that was a must-have for me, and it paid off in spades. The violet leaf is light, noticeable but not overt, so those that fear the potential for "soapiness" know that the concern should be kept to a minimum. Instead, the combination of the four elements smooths within minutes of drydown into a sophisticated, sweet, but not cloying, delicate blue musk. 

Low to medium throw, test a little to see how it reacts with your chemistry before you slather- this is not a scent you want to overdo, rather one that will be more enjoyable if you keep it close to you.

I was just grieving yesterday how Random Brothel will likely remain in the box now until the chilly days of autumn some back in about 7 months, but I think I found the perfect springtime replacement! ❤️ 

In a nutshell?

*Exactly* what I'd been hoping for.

Ruby chocolate, in flavor, is distinct from all other colors of chocolate in that it has a fruity tang in its composition. I'd been hoping that the scent would capture that nuance and it DOES, beautifully.

The scent has the luxurious, creamy cacao that we've come to expect from the Lab, but with that special afore-mentioned Ruby tang. To round it out, the white musk both unifies the two elements of the cacao while balancing the scent in a way that keeps it from being too "foodie" or gourmet to turn off those that are unsure about that side of the scent spectrum. I mentioned elsewhere that I personally view this scent as a perfect counter-balance to my beloved Cacao Pod- whereas that scent has a richness that works well during the cold half of the year, here is a cacao-based fragrance for the warm months- and just in time.