Atrous

This would have been more aptly named Rampaging Dragon.

All the notes should work for me so why the headache?

 

I don't shy from strong scents but the notes seem to be amping all at once into a cacophonous screech. I tested this last night and, this morning after a shower, I can still smell it.

Maybe my skin chemistry is off but for now the Dragon has an overarching sourness to it and I smell a really pungent floral and tart berries. The honey's sweetness only adds to the dissonance. No cream detected to possibly put a leash on it. The leather note is the only one I'm enjoying. Its sort of sitting in the middle minding its own business. The leather is interesting. It does have a green vibe to it and smells slick. Sorry, that's the only word I could come up with to describe it.

 

So, I wonder if age will temper this beast? Right now I'm a little scared of it.

Wet: starts out as NyQuil cherry cough syrup. I was surprised until I read that both Mimosa and Almond Blossom can have a Heliotrope-like scent. So, now it makes sense since Heliotrope sometimes smells cherry-ish to my nose.

 

Dry: A sweet, powdery floral takes over. The cream keeps it from going into baby powder territory. I get hints of Almond and Cherry in the background complimenting the floral aspect nicely. Pretty.

 

Scent smells innocent and girly. I'm gonna love wearing this on warmer days.

OMG, I think I need a backup! I love the Lab's Tuberous note and this blend does not disappoint!

 

Starts out with a beautiful hit of citrus. Juicy blood orange and beeswax. Then Tuberous makes its way to the top and stays there while the citrus dies down to add just a hint of zing. Ambergris peeks out eventually but stays low key and supports the other notes. I'm getting an underlying wood scent but nothing I would call Cedar.

 

 

Waxy, sweet Tuberose with the other notes adding depth and sophistication. Feminine with a medium throw.

When I huff my wrist the word 'alluring' comes to mind. My favorite of this years Lupers.

Wet: Coconut is in the lead. Fresh coconut. Soon a creamy warmth spreads over the blend that smells a bit nutty and buttery. For about the first 20 minutes this has a bite to it that I don't find all that appealing.

 

Dry: I guess I'm in the minority that I get amber in a big way. Creamy Amber infused with Coconut. The bite I previously mentioned is gone. I was worried for a while. Amber keeps this from going too sweet and too foody. Quite beautiful.

This scent is all about the Tobacco and Vanilla.

The other notes seem to be there to deepen, layer, support, and lend complexity to the two stars.

For me, Vanilla usually gets lost in a blend and comes off just adding creaminess.

In Mars Ultor the Vanilla is lush and stands on its own. I can definitely tell there is Vanilla in this and not just a generic creaminess.

The Tobacco is dark and robust. Nutmeg makes the whole thing deliciously spicy. There is a sweetness that runs through both Tobacco and Vanilla. It borders on gourmand but doesn't go foody. There is an underlying resin vibe but doesn't go full on incense.

 

The picture that enters my mind is someone smoking high quality, vanilla flavored pipe tobacco in a dark room.

 

This scent is dark, smokey, vanillic, spicy, resinous. It has a pretty good throw and longevity. I feel it is unisex bordering on masculine.

Wet: the notes blossom in the order they are listed. First, it's all grass then the myrtle comes out and the scent goes a bit sharp and camphorous for a while. As the sharpness starts dying down Musk comes out.

 

Dry: The green musk has an oily quality to it that I believe gives this scent a certain smoothness. The grass has a lovely freshness mingling with an herbal sweetness. The notes seem really balanced and play so nicely together. Quite complex for a scent with three notes.

A scent that is restive, happy, grassy, herbal, slightly sweet with a medium throw. Lovely!

I love me some Lotus so a scent with the first three notes listed as Lotus was a no-brainer.

Doesn't really morph from wet to dry but there were a few moments where this scent threatened to go in the direction of Lotus scented soap. Thankfully, it pulled away from going in that direction.
So, yes, the star is Lotus. Quiet, serene Lotus with a very, very light dose of Frank and Amber supporting it. Currant is my favorite of the Lab's fruit notes and it's perfect in Minamoto. It lends some fruity sweetness. It's not fruit candy but candy-ish in the sense that I smell the fruit and the candy aspects together. Also, this scent oscillates between powdery and slightly creamy.
Light, close to the skin, feminine.

This one's a morpher.

Wet: Starts out smelling like Rubber and Camphor. But, It quickly starts mellowing out during the dry down.

Dry: I'm getting the musk, pine, tar, cedar and a touch of pepper. Smells like dark woods in the distance with a kick of spice. What really surprises me is the role Ivy plays. Not because its the dominant note but because it elevates this blend from dark and brooding to dark and contemplative. My mind is associating this scent with a dark green color.
A lovely scent that is unisex and stays close to the skin.

Wow, there is a lot going on here.

At least half the name is spot on 'cause I was a bit startled when I first put it on.

 

Wet: Startled Toad hit me hard. There is a heaviness to this scent I think is caused by so many notes contending for the top spot. On top of that the citrus is overpowering. It feels like coconut, carnation, and lemongrass are all fighting to be the champion. All three are really strong notes in Startled Toad which worries me because Carnation and I are not always friends.

 

Dry: So, coconut decides to stop fighting. Instead, it sort of melds with carnation, so ends up a spicy, creamy carnation that's actually really nice. You'd think coconut and carnation wouldn't smell too good together but the coconut tempers carnation's bite. Its only then that I detect amber, vanilla, and a touch of frankincense in the background adding a layer of complexity to an already complex scent. Oh, and before I forget, I also get whiffs of mixed berries. No fruit notes so where is the berry scent coming from? I also never get any patchouli whatsoever.

 

If that was all to Startled Toad this scent would be great but lemongrass spoils it for me. It never seems to stop fighting. It's dissonant with the other notes, I think, because its so damn strong. I like a strong citrus note but this lemongrass is overwhelming. Because of that, there is an underlying funk to the lemongrass I just can't get past. If only it were a bit weaker.

 

I don't know if lemongrass gets stronger or weaker with age but I am going to try aging this and see if the lemongrass pipes down. If aging mellows out lemongrass I think this has potential to be a really beautiful scent.

Lenus Mars scared me at first.
During the wet phase it smelled like herbal cough drops.
Not to worry because once this dries down its a really nice balance of all three notes.
The Chamomile has such a soothing feel to it and gives the Musk a powdery vibe. Then there is the Ambergris which is present but not too strong.
Simple, beautiful, unisex with a medium throw.

This scent has an Ava-esque quality to it but less floral, more gritty.

The White Musk is in the forefront and its beautiful. As it dries down the Ambergris blooms and mingles with Musk. Tobacco comes out giving the blend a smokey feel. I'm glad the Cacao in no way turns this scent gourmand. Instead, it stays in the background helping Tobacco in giving the blend a gritty edge.

This starts out as Vanilla and Cardamon with the tiniest bit of cinnamon.

After about 15 minutes the faint scent of oudh is detected but Vanilla and Cinnamon fade completely.

So this ends up as primarily Cardamon with traces of Oudh.

I have to say I'm a bit disappointed.

____________________________________________________________________________________

 

Retest:

I was really curious whether, after a few months, I would have a different reaction to this HG. I don't know if HG's change with age the way oils do or if it's just me but the vanilla is not fading out the way it did when I tested it fresh. Cardamon is still strong with a pinch of oudh. I'm also finally getting tobacco but not smokey tobacco. This one's chewy and goes really well with the vanilla and cardamon. I am much more happy with this HG after letting it rest awhile.

I'm so glad this came back from being OOS for a second time. I blind bought a bottle thinking it would be easy enough to swap/sell if I didn't like it. You must roll the bottle before applying as the thick chocolate sludge separates from the rest of the blend.

 

Wet: Starts out as dark chocolate cake. Other reviewers have commented that the Stout smells like Roasted Barley and that's exactly what I get. So, the Roasted Barley seems to seep into the nooks and crannies of the cake. Its really wonderful but I'm a bit bummed that I'm not getting frosting.

 

Dry: Oh, there's the frosting! I had to wait for the dry down for it to come out. I am detecting a creamy vanilla now. Dark, chocolate cake...not too sweet and oddly enough not super gourmand either...with that Roasted Barley and topped off with Buttercream frosting.

 

The surprise is that CSC smells unisex, leaning masculine and I can really see a guy wearing this. Since I tend to like masculine and gourmand scents this is a real treat for me.

In the perfume the notes are more balanced and I can detect them all.

For me, the HG is honey drenched leather with the tiniest bit of rose in the background.

I'm a little disappointed that I'm not getting the musks the way I do in perfume. On the other hand I do love the way the honey and leather amp...very sexy.

I was bummed at first because I had a preconceived notion of how this should smell but I also realize that it's beautiful the way it is.

A blast of Grapefruit which dies down quickly and light, generic florals.

Oh wait, do I smell tea? Oh, its gone. Not just the tea note but the whole scent...just vanished.

It's not even completely dried down yet.

Oh well.

While testing this scent I keep thinking..."if snowballs were warm this is what they'd smell like".

Okay, I had to voice that thought even if it doesn't make sense to anyone else.

 

On to the review:

 

The Snow note is quite faint for a snowball blend (at least compared to others I've tried). Rather it serves to quiet the other notes a bit and gives the blend an overall vibe of fluffiness. There is a bit of that snow smell but it's more of a mushy snow due to, I think, the warmth of the other notes.

On first contact with my skin the Hay note blooms. Its really lovely...fresh, warm hay, ummm.

As FS dries down a nice, light honey and creamy oak take on a more prominent role along side that lovely hay.

Skirting along the edges is a nutty, warm Oudh giving this blend a wonderful complexity.

 

I haven't tried a snow blend quite like this. It is glorious!

Chilly, ethereal florals entangled in wisps of mint. Occasionally, I get a tease of white chocolate and then its gone.

 

There are a few moments during the wet stage where the flowers threaten to go into soap territory. As the scent dries down the floral notes blossom sending soap running far, far away.

Lady A. is a feminine, light, cold, spectral scent. She's Snow White's more floral, big sister.

I cannot distinguish the individual floral notes but, combined, they give off a lavender-colored vibe.

 

Lady A. is a true beauty. I will be purchasing a bottle with my next order.

Hummm. I'm getting a bit of a different experience from most other reviewers.

 

First off, from bottle sniff to dry down I never smell any of the following: Red musk, vetiver, patchouli or rose. Which is weird because I tend to amp all of these but vetiver.

 

In the Bottle: Single note leather. Smells like the same leather as in Adam.

 

Wet: A clean, black leather with pepper and ginger giving it a spicy edge

 

Dry: The leather note stays put. By that I mean that the leather note doesn't fade but doesn't amp. A slightly sweet, pulpy coconut comes along to play. Neither note dominates the blend. They are both equally matched.

 

I really like this spicy, non-creamy coconut, black leather scent. I don't mind that none of the other notes are coming out...maybe with age they will. I'm certainly going to have to revisit and see how this ages. Also, like another reviewer, I do get similarities with Loviatar.

super short review:

Ginger bread and incense.

 

Smells Yummy!

Wet: Sharp, overwhelming rose with a hit of citrus

 

Dry: The sharpness of the rose goes away but stays quite heady, especially in combination with the other floral notes. Citrus floats in and around the rose.

Underneath the florals is a dark, strong incense. I like this okay but, when compared with the rest of the series, falls a bit flat.

Now I get what all the hype is about.

 

Wet: I get something similar to TKO except where TKO is, to me, a cool scent; Haloes is a warm scent. I think the TKO connection comes from the vanilla which I swear is the same in both blends.

 

Dry: A smooth, creamy, fluffy blanket of vanilla with apricot, oak, a touch of spice from the ginger, and a distant floral teasing me. The scent is warm and comforting but still grown-up and I do get some similarities to Antikythera Mechanism. Haloes just shot up to my top three scents of all time. It is absolutely stunning

Wet: Well hello there Rose! This rose isn't fresh but it's more complex than dried roses.

 

Dry: Rose, Oudh, and Amber are the stars with well blended resins and musk supporting the blend.

Resiny, Rose Musk is how I would describe Queen Venus

Rose is a note that can go a variety of ways on me. This rose has depth and beauty due to the symphony of notes surrounding it.

Surprise hit for me.

Yep, this is Hemlock (sharp, green, herbal) with a lovely honey note.

Often Honey goes powdery but the Honey in this blend never does, which is a nice thing.

The sharp, herbal quality of the Hemlock and the sweetness of the Honey strike a really nice balance.

I wear this scent often because its simple and smells the same no matter what is going on with my chemistry or hormones.

2011 Version:

 

Wet - smells identical to Bliss

Dry - Old, dust covered chocolate. No thanks.

For the first hour or so this is Tea single note. Which is fine, I guess. I love tea notes but the Lab has better Tea blends so I'd never reach for this if I wanted to smell like tea. Plus, after the first hour this turns to soap.