aphrodite

truth be told, I got a decant of this because of the name/inspiration and because it didn't sound totally off-base for me, but I didn't expect much. berries, roots, and branches are all things that i really want to smell like in theory but never quite translate in perfume form on my skin.

 

meanwhile, my big fall-winter Lab-direct bottle order arrived just yesterday, but I'm strongly contemplating ordering a bottle of this. it is so juicy and realistic - nothing remotely cloying or chemical about this blackberry. the other notes create just sort of a sultry, intoxicating backdrop. I smeared quite a lot of the decant on tonight because I liked my first test-run a few days ago, and even in this strong dose, it's gorgeous.

This is how I wish Litha smelled on me: golden, sweet but not cloying, pulsing with life, vaguely ethereal. It smells like the world waking up on a golden morning. 

 

It's beautifully blended, so everything is present but nothing particularly leads the show. I think a blind sniffer would always pin this as a honey scent, but may not be able to ID everything else.

 

This is a scent I could (and probably will) keep in my purse as an all-purpose option for when I'm running late and don't have time to choose a perfume at home. 

This is in the family of Lyonesse, Zorya P, and Lady Death: Savage. A haunting, gossamer grey scent. Whereas Lyonesse runs aquatic, LDS is more smoothed out, and Zorya P is quite heady, this is a calm, neutral base. Just sweetness and grey, like strolling while it's overcast and you're in love. It's a great skin scent or layering scent if you enjoy this scent family in general, and if you like the sweetly grey quality but those other scents contain notes that aren't for you, this one should be a success.

This scent is so lovely. It's like De Vos Dark. it has that soft, ethereal, sweetened pillow of roses quality, but instead of pink, it's the deep colors of twilight.

a well-balanced, sweet resinous blend that's extremely versatile and chameleon-esque: i could see this feeling like a cozy sweater comfort scent, a date night scent, and a platonic social gathering scent, and shifting seamlessly into each role. there is a slight sharpness from the frankincense creating a firm backbone, and otherwise, it's just a sweet, chewy, rich, beautiful blend that will surely please lovers of sweet resins.

I'm a great lover of sweet florals, and this is a unique take on the category. The florals are bright, fresh, and sunny - simple and straightforward, and very accurate - and fresh out of the mail, they were pretty much all I got. As soon as the next day, it had become more complex - it opens with the florals, but then the sugary cereal comes in, kind of like the flowers are already wafting and you wake up to that and then pour your cereal. The vanilla tinged oak twines its way in, and it becomes this springy, classic yet original, sugary floral, which eventually fades into a sweetened skin scent. Gorgeous. I'm already wearing it a lot even though it doesn't match the weather here at all, and I think it will be a big staple when spring rolls around.

Is there any that resembles Monster Bait: Underpants? It smells so good!

Nothing quite, but try Port au Prince, Cockaigne, Lyonesse, and Mouses Long and Sad Tale for possible similar vibes. And Loves Philosophy is an LE with similarities that is a little less hard to find now because it's been released more than once.

 

can you describe qualities or notes that stand out to you? i find usually if you put forth a commercial scent and then try to match the notes with a BPAL, you'll get very different results, whereas if you can say what stands out and appeals, like, "i smell mostly the vetiver and oakmoss and it's masculine and woodsy and sensual, etc" it's easier to go, "ohh, try Nephilim!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I should have been clearer - this isn't a favorite so much as one I'm curious about - but non-bpal fragrances tend to bother me, so I'm kind of leery of even spending $10 on a sample of it online, when I'd much prefer something BPAL anyway... (ok ok, I cannot tell a lie, i just stumbled on two websites saying Colin Firth likes/wears it...lol!)

 

ohh, gotcha! i find my recommendations based on notes aren't always super accurate, but for the scents i'm familiar with i can usually give recommendations, but on this one i would be shooting in the dark. it sounds like it would be sooo sexy in bpal form, though! maybe Croquet, Cheshire Cat, Wilde, Marquis de Sade, or Crowley?

Any near equivalents to Tom Ford's "Grey Vetiver"?

 

According to http://parfumplusmag.fourplusmedia.com/colin-firth-prefers-tom-ford-perfumes/ theseare the notes:

 

Olfactory Notes of Grey Vetiver

Top : Grapefruit, Orange Blossom, Sage

Heart : Nutmeg, Orris Root, Pimento

Base : Vetiver, Woodsy Notes, Amber, Oakmoss

(I'm just such a noob on perfumes that I don't feel confident that I could search the BPAL and succeed here, so thank you in advance for taking pity on me!)

 

i hope this was the right place for this!

can you describe qualities or notes that stand out to you? i find usually if you put forth a commercial scent and then try to match the notes with a BPAL, you'll get very different results, whereas if you can say what stands out and appeals, like, "i smell mostly the vetiver and oakmoss and it's masculine and woodsy and sensual, etc" it's easier to go, "ohh, try Nephilim!"

This is a difficult one to review, because it is utterly remarkable, yet when I think through the description to write it out, I don't think its glory is conveyed. It's something you have to experience.

 

I have worn it three or four times now, and it goes through the exact same transformation each time. It really is a process; a scent of becoming.

 

When first applied, I get skin musk, what I imagine is the soma, and a bit of asphodel. It reminds me of a quieter version of the "lunar herbs" from lunacy scents. As it dries, the skin musk fades away, and is slowly but surely replaced by ozone. An utterly brilliant conception of the transition from human to thunder.

 

The final scent is ozone with some sparks of electric magic around the edges, the unknowable glory of soma, the shimmer of beautiful asphodel. It is soft but sure, beautiful but subtle. I can wear it for long periods without any of it overwhelming or going awry, which is impressive for a scent of such complexity.

Is there anything like 4711 cologne, or Tom Ford Neroli Portofino? These smell identical on my skin, so I can't see the point in spending TF money but 4711 has no longevity. I think the key notes in both are neroli and bergamot, but the end result is a unisex, bordering on masculine, cologne with a slightly medicinal edge (to be honest, they both smell exactly like Savlon antiseptic cream to me - I just happen to love the smell of Savlon!).

A Commentary*, A Sublime Beauty*, Caterpillar, Croquet (no neroli in this one, but still could produce a very similar vibe based on your overall description), Desire, Phaon Crescent*, Spider (no neroli, but orange, and overall fairly unisex to masculine), Titus Andronicus, Transeo (no neroli, but has orange and veers masculine), Zephyr

*not currently Lab-available

In case I fail in my quest to buy Comedy Queen... is there anything comparable in the GC, or a less rare LE? It's the honey & orange combo I'm particularly interested in.

 

it really isn't orangey at all; it's orange blossomy. i find it very similar to the recent (and probably not hard to find) LE Swift as Light, Beauteous in Color, Charming in Song - which i like more than Comedy Queen. Like the Flashing of Light is also in a very similar vein (same collection as Swift as Light), and has both neroli and king mandarin in it, so you might like that even more.

Okay I have discovered my guy LOVES Antique Lace (join the club bud) and he wanted to slather himself in it and diffuse it so I had to explain that it is very precious. I gave him an imp of The Lights of Men's Lives as a non-foody vanilla alternative and he really liked it and I am wondering if there are other ones that you guys would recommend? Masculine leaning would be interesting but I honestly don't think it matters to him as long as it isn't a super-sugar-floral explosion.

has he tried Dorian?

Is there anything even similar to Goth Queen? I know I'll probably never try the real thing so something close would be great!

maybe Death Shall Come in with Thee from the 2014 Lupers? i haven't tried it, as that was the year i was moving across the country in February and forgot to order Lupers. but based on the way Goth Queen smells to me, the notes to that one seem like they could create a similar vibe. Mary Shelley is in the same family, but not a close relative - or maybe a close relative, but the kind where you go, "wait, seriously, you're sisters?" Goth Queen is much more peppery and spicy.

This is much softer and closer to the skin than I would have guessed. The patchouli serves as a grounding note, and is not at all overwhelming or dirty. I recognize its presence, but it doesn't at all bother me, and it is the one note that didn't appeal to me. The main thing that wafts around me is clove. Up close it's just a sweet, spicy, beautiful blend of everything. I imagine it will get even better and stronger with age.

I'm still trying to get the man hooked on bpal. He fell in love with Mr. Burberry recently.

Note description says: It opens with zesty accords of grapefruit, cardamom and tarragon. The heart notes include birch leaf, nutmeg oil and cedar, followed by the base of sandalwood, vetiver and guaiac wood.

Can anyone think of anything similar? I'm thinking possibly Azathoth? Death on a Pale Horse? Spider?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Crowley, Cheshire Cat, Antikythera Mechanism

Ok here I go again:

 

1) The Girl

2) Parsifal

3) Pediophobia

4) The Waltz

5) Morocco

 

Thanks!

definitely try Lady Death: Savage for a general catalog scent that's in the same immediate family as The Girl. for LEs, try Ava and Festival Orgy.

for Pediophobia general catalog, Mouse's Long and Sad Tale and High-Strung Daisies. for LEs, De Vos' Unicorn.

i haven't tried The Waltz since it first came out, so i don't recall it perfectly, but i remember it being most similar to the limited edition Nymphes de Pave.

 

well i haven't tried the new Zorya PolyTL;DR from American Gods yet, i bet you'll love it.

 

some other random GC scents (as well as some that are not GC, but are currently available) you might like based on your overall list: Vasilissa, Lyonesse, Roses Pearls and Diamonds, Belle Epoque, Le Serpent Qui Danse, Australian Copperhead, Mr. Ibis, Tombeur, Beauty the Aggrieved, Defututa, Iole, Kubla Khan, Lullaby, Velvet

This is probably a long-shot, but it's come up on the Facebook sales group for discussion lately:

 

Is there anything in the GC -- or even other LEs that are easier to find -- that is similar to Lucille Sharpe?

i tried Lucille when she first came out, but i don't remember her super well. based on the notes and my vague memories, though, i would try:

Madame Moriarty

Countess Willie

L'Examin de Minuit

Morgause

Bette Noir

Evil

Horreur Sympathique

Isidore's Phoenix

Snooty Rose

The Night-Raven

The Witch Queen

 

and while i haven't tried Zorya Vechernyaya yet since she was just released Friday, i have a feeling she will have that kind of vibe.

Anything similar to Elizabeth and James Nirvana Black?

 

i can't think of any that are super similar in the sense that you would mistake one for the other or anything like that - the most similar i can think of is Ava, but she goes for quite a lot on the secondhand market when she pops up. but, i can tell you that i love Nirvana Black - it's one of the very, very few commercial scents i wear ever - and reach for the following BPALs in similar moods (* = general catalog or currently available LE):

Ava

Madame Moriarty*

Le Serpent Qui Danse*

Festival Orgy (this isn't currently Lab-available, but it was a 2017 Luper and they JUST came down, so you could probably find it secondhand fairly easily)

Belle Epoque*

Lady Death: Savage*

Mrs. Valentine

Time Does Not Bring Relief

Butterflies, Flowers, and Jewels Attending

 

ones that i either didn't keep or didn't try, but which have the right notes to potentially create a Nirvana Black vibe for someone else depending on chemistry:

Fairy Thorn

Fleurette's Purple Snails

The Magpie

The Mist-World

The Raven*

The Sorceress

Veil*

i LOVE this one. it is subtly aquatic, but with a cool vanilla undertone. the aquatic aspect reminds me of Denna, but it's tempered by that beautiful, ethereal sweet note that reminds me of Ava, The Girl, Lady Death: Savage, and a bit of an airy floral that reminds me of Queen Mab.

In the bottle: Whooph! Super vanilla frosting.

 

Wet on skin: Calmer vanilla frosting, with a hint of jasmine. The jasmine smells both soft and sharp, like it’s the bracing kind (I use really aggressive words to describe jasmine, but I mean them all in a good way), but is just waking up.

 

Drying down: There she is! Good morning, jasmine, sweetie. I notice her because I am looking for her, and because I love her, but she is in no way overpowering. I truly think (in this stage, at least) this could be a gateway scent for someone that is trying to learn to love jasmine. I’m not getting any anise, but I’m hoping after a few days of settling from the trip, the anise and jasmine will stand up to the creamy vanilla sugar a little bit. It’s definitely exquisite, but I want it to smell a little more dark queen and a little less like the maiden she’s trying to do away with.

 

Early dry: jasmine Love’s Philosophy. I think someone may have already said that, but I’m writing this in a word document, so I’m not looking at the other reviews right now to know for sure. Anyway, it’s true. It’s Love’s Philosophy, but with jasmine instead of saffron. It’s freaking divine. I still want the anise to show up, just because I deeply enjoy that note, but either way, this is going to be a keeper forrr sure.

 

Second day: the jasmine is the first thing I smell in the bottle now. Off to a good start!

 

Wet: MMMMMM. Creamy, vanilla jasmine. Like Sampaguita with a vanillic sweetness. I do get the subtlest suggestion of anise in the background.

 

----

 

DRYDOWN / FINAL VERDICT / SEVERAL STRAIGHT DAYS OF WEAR: This stuff is achingly beautiful. A classic example of why you can't judge a scent solely by its fresh-out-of-the-mail state. The sugary, creamy aspects have backed off significantly, so instead of cake batter with jasmine in it, it now smells like jasmine cream. In fact, I realized this afternoon it smells like the jasmine cream note from Peach VIII, isolated. Which is basically my dream scent. I love it so much.

For me, both fresh out of the mail and when retested a few days later, this is mostly white tea. I get a bit of jasmine, and maybe a hint of leather, but not enough to make it truly dynamic. The jasmine and leather were the biggest draws for me - I like white tea and white musk, but mostly as background notes - so I don't think it will be a keeper. I do like it, though. I just can't see myself reaching for it over a number of other scents.

I know this is the kind of scent that will particularly benefit from some rest after travel, but I’m going to give you my fresh impressions anyway.

 

First whiff, fresh from the bottle, fresh from the mail: soft, pretty incense. Mostly champaca, but rooted in sandalwood and coconut.

 

When I apply it to my skin, before I even lean forward to sniff it (on my wrist), I smell coconut wafting. It’s a soft kind of coconut – not heavily foody and tropical.

 

Wet on the skin: gosh, this is soothing and lovely. It’s hard to say if I get any leather, because everything in here is in the same color scheme, and I think if I am smelling leather, it’s sort of golden brown as well. So, for now at least, it’s blending right in. This scent is light, pretty, and meditative as of now. I would wear it to yoga.

 

Dry: Much of the same, through and through. Soft, incensed coconut, bathed in a soothing gold light.

just orange flower for days on me. the jasmine may be giving the headiness some oomph, but jasmine (sambac included) is in my top two notes, and i'm not detecting any of its usual characteristics other than the overall headiness.

This one is stunning in its simplicity. It's a creamy (hi, mallow flower), bright (neroli/orange blossom), honeyed scent; sweet, but in a purely natural and non-cloying way, like a stroll through a blooming orchard in which much pollination is taking place.