Invidiana

This started out so odd on me I almost didn't give it a chance. It was just really acidic with the citrus wrestling the snowy and minty aspects for dominance with almost no vanilla coming through. However, after letting the notes settle things between them the acidity burns off and it becomes a lovely creamy citrus with soft vanilla and a hint of sweet mint. From where I thought it was going to end up smelling like bona fide yellow snow on me it's going to turn into a bottle.

There really is something bright and "golden" about the floral notes in this. At first it's all snow, but as it dried down some glorious warm florals that don't feel floral in the classic sense arise--very difficult to describe. I would almost say they're honeyed florals but it's not quite honey, just something beautiful and glowing bursting forth from the snow. This is like the big sister to The First Soft Snow and I think it will be joining my bottle of that soon.

So I finally get to try the holy of holies. Funny I should phrase it that way because guess what I turn it into: church incense. Church incense and bunches of flowers. Bastardized by my skin chemistry Noir ends up smelling like the Easter vigil, and when you have to put up with an Easter vigil of--counts on fingers--four hours in the Orthodox church, most all except a few precious minutes spent standing up, it isn't exactly something you want hanging around as perfume. It's that same incense smoke from the censer mingling with the scent of the lilies and carnations they put out in vases by the altar every year. I really can't pick out what combination of what notes is doing this on me. Perhaps it's the oppoponax/myrrh/clove? Jasmine/oppoponax/myrrh? Jasmine/myrrh/Lily of the Valley? It could be all or none of those. I barely get any plum or rose at all, maybe a hint of rose on the drydown but something ate the plum. As it dries down it becomes a bit sweeter, though I must note that I tend to amp the sweetness in virtually anything that has even a hint of it. Something of a powdery quality also begins to set in, possibly from the rose and resins, though the church-incense-and-flowers vibe is still prominent. It doesn't end up entirely unpleasant in an objective sense, but the memory associations of being ten years old and feeling my feet helplessly blister only halfway through that epic service are just too strong. I will leave the rest of the Noir that exists in the world to those whose skin really does turn it to magic.

I love this one. Love, love, love. Simple but amazing. It's like thickest, darkest, most delicious blackberry honey I've never tasted. The slight tartness of the blackberry balances out the naturally sweet honey note. I need a bottle.

Apple blossom often turns into the cheapest, nastiest sort of baby powder on me. While everyone else was raving about Eve v5 I was sneezing.

I didn't spring for a bottle of this right away because I was a little leery of the pine and cotton candy combo. Strangely, it works! I don't even get too much pine, but what is there combines with the floral elements to make this smell like eating cotton candy outside in a field of wildflowers surrounded by pine trees in the springtime. As it dries down the pine all but fades completely, and I'm left with a sweet pink cotton candy scent backed by soft wildflowers that balance it out. Glad to say it did turn into a bottle.

I would characterize this as a feminine snow and pine scent. It definitely has more of a "cold" quality than the released due to the pine plus more prominent mint and ozonic notes that are like bracing winter air in the beginning but soften on the drydown. I wouldn't say this pine is the dark pine resin of Gacela of the Dark Death or The Most Magnificent Christmas Tree but a lighter, slightly sweet pine needle scent like that in Skadi or Ondurdis. I do see a link between this and the released in the combination of snow, soft nonfoody vanilla and white floral notes. I can't put my finger on the exact florals, but they are present, though I think to a lesser extent than they are in Snow White. This version has no coconutty quality like the released, it does share something of the pleasantly powdery quality the released takes on as it dries down, though I would say this one ends up less powdery overall. This is Snow White in a snowy evergreen forest, and it is as beautiful as the image it conjures.

This is like Skadi, Talvikuu and Snow-Flakes crossed paths. I actually have Ondurdis on one hand and Skadi on the other to compare notes. It starts out bracing, with a rush of frozen ozone like a blast of winter wind in your face, but not a mentholic cough-medicine type of bracing--similar to the wet stage of Skadi. On the drydown, while Skadi goes to mostly pine and winter berries with a dusting of snow on me, Ondurdis becomes a soft yet uplifting predominantly snowy scent with hints of pine, nonfoody vanilla and a smidge of winter berry, but not the prominent pine and berry of Skadi. Overall I'd wager there is about a 75% similarity between the two (on my skin at least), but when my nose jumps from one to the other I can pick out subtle differences. Despite the scent worship that surrounds Skadi, I have to say that I personally prefer this one.

I'm probably not going to be much help with this review, because UMU1 was all grape gummies on me, exactly like those Welch's grape gummies made with real fruit juice. It seems to be a cousin to Beth's "fruit gums" notes like those in Magic Do As You Will and Nightmare, more like that in Magic Do As You Will, which was sweeter. Unfortunately that was the issue; I amp the sweetness in anything that has it to begin with, and this ended up becoming cloying on me in the end. It has gone off to greener pastures.

I held off on reviewing this one for so long because I wanted to do it properly.

 

First of all, I am honored to have been able to help the Lab in contributing to Jewel's fight against cancer by winning this auction, though I do not know her personally. She remains in my prayers.

 

Now for the scent:

 

Before I go any further, here is the description for the released Black Lace as a basis for comparison: a delicate sugar-spun vanilla cream cotton, stained by tobacco and incense, Indian musk, and drops of cognac.

Beth mentioned briefly that this prototype of Black Lace had more pronounced vanilla and incense notes, and that it definitely does. This is not a “delicate” scent as the released is but markedly more heady. I would probably call it Black Brocade in place of Black Lace, because to me it seems to be the scented version of a sumptuous brocade woven with an intricate scroll or damask pattern. I cannot really detect the cotton or linen notes which are evident on the drydown of the released. The vanilla is a major player from the start, not so much a vanilla cream note like that in Detestable Putrescence or Boo but more of a thick Bourbon vanilla like that in Celeste (though this blend smells absolutely nothing like Celeste). I do detect hints of spun sugar, though it is more of a subtle flourish of spun sugar than the prominent spun sugar note of Boo. There is also something of a booziness to the vanilla slightly reminiscent of XCDL13, which I’m contributing to the cognac note. It isn’t a blend to knock you over with booze, but the cognac is able to hold its own. The sweet tobacco and incense smoke are in about equal proportion to the vanilla, maybe a tad stronger overall on the drydown. I pick up a tobacco note very similar to that in Havana, backed by thick, sweet resins that must include one or more varieties of dark amber. I should note, as I probably have half a million times in my other reviews, that my skin tends to amp the sweetness in resins, and all notes that have any for that matter. In the final drydown a warm, sensuous musk emerges, which I’m taking to be the Indian musk. This blend also has tremendous staying power on me; again I should note that besides amping the sweetness in resins and vanilla my skin also clings to them tenaciously. When I wore it one night it was the first thing my nose picked up the next morning.

 

This truly is a gorgeous blend that melds with my skin as if it were made for me. Maybe in the future the Lace series could branch out to a cousin in this vein called Black Brocade. It makes me think of a séance or phantasmagoria (like that one particular postcard that’s gone out in packages—anyone who’s gotten it, you know what I’m talking about!) in a smoky Victorian drawing room, a bottle of fine cognac on the table, tendrils of incense smoke entwining with tobacco from the men’s pipes and the women’s perfumes of vanilla and exotic musks. Of course, at least one of the women would be wearing a gown of richly textured black brocade glowing softly in the candlelight.

 

No matter how many times I wear it, Black Lace v1 will always remind me of the special connection I had in giving someone the gift of hope, of the distinctly human empathy that binds us all, even if we have never met before.

This reminds me almost exactly of David's Pumpkin Pie Chai (though strangely that isn't a rooibos--guess that's where the "almost" comes from), which in my opinion is the best pumpkin tea out there and believe me I've been through boxes and boxes of pumpkin tea from every brand imaginable. Now for me to equate this with my favorite pumpkin tea, it's obviously good. This is not a heavily syrupy or buttery pumpkin blend, but warm and sweet with almond and just the right dusting of spice that doesn't raise its flag and take over in 2.5 seconds. There is a certain creaminess from the coconut that doesn't assert itself as coconut but smooths everything out, and the licorice/fennel also don't scream their names but contribute a unique depth. Love!

This definitely smells like a Christmas tree, but it's a wearable Christmas tree scent rather than the pine-on-steroids Black Forest goes to on me. I think it's the sweet balsamic sap and warm background woods that tame this one, and I'm not familiar with what silver birch smells like on its own but I'm sure that has a part to play as well. It has a certain comforting sweetness on the drydown that is surely coming from my skin amping the sweetness in the sap note, and I love that. Beth has taken a classic Christmas tree scent and made it so it remains true to the theme of a Christmas tree, but smells like more than just a Christmas tree. Beautiful.

Warrior witch indeed. I couldn't possibly resist this for the theme alone, and the scent is just.....sex. Not a smutty scent, but something that clings to the skin with a fierce edge. The Lab's ethereal white musk is given a dusky feel by the grey amber, and a nonfoody vanilla that is sweet enough to complement the blend but doesn't overpower. I should note that I tend to amp vanilla so it may be a little sweeter on me than on someone who doesn't. The labdanum and styrax give it a substantial resinous anchor that layers very well with the gray amber and emerges more over time. There is something, though, that I can't really put my finger on--something that gives it that extra oomph--maybe that rare jasmine that actually likes me? The caraway? I really doubt the wormwood note is what does it though its interaction with something might give that result. I have a feeling it's from the intermingling of more than one note. Either way, this is a scent that almost hisses its darkly sexual aura, and is the olfactory equivalent of a leather catsuit (without the leather). Love it.

This is a pretty perilous scent for me alright. I turn it into a sickeningly cloying pear candy on steroids for quite a while, and finally when that aspect of it has had its fun a soft vanilla musk comes into play and the ubersweet pear finally starts to recede. I can now see the comparison to Antique Lace but since I already own that and so many other vanillas with which I don't have to put up with a torturous wet stage, I don't think I'll be hunting any more.

Smoky cake! I'm thrilled that I primarily get vanilla frosting, dry leaves and smoke out of this. I'm also really glad the wine didn't end up either cloyingly sweet or really sour and takes a backseat. I can pick out traces of the other notes--a bit of booze here, a bit of incense there, teensy hints of Snake Oil and Dorian if I really concentrate on finding them--but when everything comes together it's basically like cake smashed into the smell of autumn for me, and I love it.

Some apple scents that don't have a baked apple notes or a backup of foody gloop tend to go cloyingly sweet on me. So what business, then, do I have with a bottle of this in my hand? I had a hunch and I was right: it really is as gorgeous as its name. It's mostly all apple wet, but that quickly changes when the other elements come into play on the drydown. I get the soft sweetness of vanilla, ethereal musks, and the sensuality of heady tropical blossoms fully supporting and balancing the apple. I don't really get much bergamot but maybe it's helping keep the natural sweetness of the apple in check. This is a beautiful and diaphanous scent that "sparkles" even without effervesccence, and I'm so glad I took a chance on it.

This is another I've fallen hard for. It's all pumpkin and boozy vanilla wet, soft smoky wood notes emerging as it dries down and adding to the warm autumnal feel of it. The linen note is pretty faint and only appears at the tail end of the drydown but then again I expect it to be taking into account that it's supposed to be a diaphanous linen shroud rather than dominant linen. The pumpkin and vanilla remain the stars on me, highlighted by a smoky woody background. Love.

This is beyond cider. This is the illegitimate love child of apple cider and the most delicious hot toddy in the world. Right away I get the spiced apple and citrus, then the richness of the butterscotch liquor and brown sugar become more evident as it dries down. The orange and lemon don't overpower but add just the right balance of tartness to the natural sweetness of the apple note. This is warm and comforting and cozy and just a bit boozy, perfect for the many chilly nights we have ahead of us.

This is dangerously delicious. It certainly is a nice crusty toasted marshmallow with that droolworthy burnt-sugar crust which actually leans more towards caramelized sugar with a swirl of autumnal woodsmoke rather than a creme brulee sugar crust. Simple, but amazing. I LOVE this and am going to need multiple bottles.

Echoing the other, this i a "glittering scent that isn't effervesscent but still sparkles in its own unique way. It's very much fresh apple wet, but as it dries down the crystalline musks and vanilla emerge followed by the soft white florals. There is something quietly exotic about the floral elementhere, especially from the tiare. It actually isn't a floral-dominated cent on me but more of a vanillaed apple veiled in diaphanous muskis and backed by soft tropical petals, ethereal and beautiful.

Holy--this is vanillaed October. The slightly smoky dry leaves from October are here, but with the sweet creaminess of vanilla and white cocoa, with soft white musk and sweet amber in the background. I have been waiting for something that combines vanilla and dry leaves, and this is it! I'm going to need more.

This makes me think of the woody, earthy scents I pick up biking outdoors at this time of year. I live in a pretty heavily wooded area and the wood and leaf notes, along with a gentle hint of fir needle, really hit home. Obviouly patchouli doen't grow in New Jersey but it also adds to the earthy quality. The fir needle doesn't scream cologney pine, but adds to the ambience this creates like a dusting of pine needles on the forest floor. These elements are made even better with the sweet wildflower honey and toasty, nutty hazelnut that add some autumnal comfort. I don't really pick up anything boozy from the cognac but since it's green cognac it's probably tying in with the leaves somewhere. It's one of those lovely "fall in a bottle" scents that's anything but stereotypical.

The violet, moss and green notes in this are obvious right away, but a darker and smoky background reveals itself on the drydown. It isn't fuity per ses; I get more of the tobacco and oppoponax and sage, but I can pick up a slight sweetnes from the fruit. I'm taking the "specks of bone" note to have white sandalwood somewhere in there because I believe I'm picking some up. There is something reminscent of saltwater or salty tears here, but it isn't a cologney type of aquatic and stays subdued in the background. This is a mournful and etherweal scent that quietly speaks volumes.

Nightmare reminds me of the Smashing Pumpkins song Behold! The Nighmare! in that it has that same dreamy yet sinister quality. It' not exactly the eaiest thing to describe but it's almost like drifting off to sleep with the remnants of your consciousness picking up on fragments of ominous thoughts that will end up swirling together into fantastically frightening visions. There is that dreamlike airiness of linen and lavender coupled with the innocent sweetness of vanilla and honey, tainted by the deliciously dark stain of opium and the blackened fruit gums. I don't really get much jasmine, but it definitely isn't hte cat pee type or else it would have shown up.This is a truly otherworldly scent brimming with mystery and unlike anything else in my collection.

Wow. Thick, positively evil musks burst out right away, followed by earthy, woody clove and patchouli. Thankfully I don't amp the clove to the point of it turning out like a jar of cloves and nothing else. The myrrh and vanilla orchid gradually arise more and more on the drydown with a balance of both resinous and creamy types of sweetness. I might be getting the vanilla orchid fairly well because I do tend to amp vanilla. I don't get much king mandarin but there is a bit of a juicy element in there that isn't distinctly citrus but melds right into everything else. Gorgeous.