Invidiana

Holy. THIS SMELLS LIKE THE REAL THING. Dead ringer for the real thing. It's exactly, and I mean exactly, like peeling a fresh tangerine and biting into that first piece with the smells of the juice and the peel harmonizing. This is a really refreshing and energizing scent that's like wearing an instant burst of sunshine.

I didn't review this? Shame on me then, because it's gorgeous. Evening Stock is a cool floral with a certain airy quality that feels very clean and fresh without being Clorox. It's a little bit green in the beginning, but that fades in the drydown to let the flower itself really shine, with a slightly sweet undertone. There is a bit of a "dusty" undertone to it too, but not in a bone-dry, thirst-inducing way but rather in the way of a vintage dress that hasn't seen the light in years. Something about this also smells nostalgic to me, but I can't quite put my finger on what.

Also, if you haven't already, you must get the Honey hair gloss. Now. Without hesitation. It's like dousing your whole head in honey (without the sticky gloop real honey would leave) and the scent lasts forever. It's not an overly sugary honey, not an overly floral one, but golden just right. Seriously. I put it on in the morning, it's still going strong at the end of the day. Not to mention it smooths dry ends like nothing else. It's my go-to hair miracle product.

I held off on reviewing this one for so long because I wanted to do it properly. First of all, I am honored to have been able to help the Lab in contributing to Jewel's fight against cancer by winning this auction, though I do not know her personally. She remains in my prayers. Now for the scent: Before I go any further, here is the description for the released Black Lace as a basis for comparison: a delicate sugar-spun vanilla cream cotton, stained by tobacco and incense, Indian musk, and drops of cognac. Beth mentioned briefly that this prototype of Black Lace had more pronounced vanilla and incense notes, and that it definitely does. This is not a “delicate” scent as the released is but markedly more heady. I would probably call it Black Brocade in place of Black Lace, because to me it seems to be the scented version of a sumptuous brocade woven with an intricate scroll or damask pattern. I cannot really detect the cotton or linen notes which are evident on the drydown of the released. The vanilla is a major player from the start, not so much a vanilla cream note like that in Detestable Putrescence or Boo but more of a thick Bourbon vanilla like that in Celeste (though this blend smells absolutely nothing like Celeste). I do detect hints of spun sugar, though it is more of a subtle flourish of spun sugar than the prominent spun sugar note of Boo. There is also something of a booziness to the vanilla slightly reminiscent of XCDL13, which I’m contributing to the cognac note. It isn’t a blend to knock you over with booze, but the cognac is able to hold its own. The sweet tobacco and incense smoke are in about equal proportion to the vanilla, maybe a tad stronger overall on the drydown. I pick up a tobacco note very similar to that in Havana, backed by thick, sweet resins that must include one or more varieties of dark amber. I should note, as I probably have half a million times in my other reviews, that my skin tends to amp the sweetness in resins, and all notes that have any for that matter. In the final drydown a warm, sensuous musk emerges, which I’m taking to be the Indian musk. This blend also has tremendous staying power on me; again I should note that besides amping the sweetness in resins and vanilla my skin also clings to them tenaciously. When I wore it one night it was the first thing my nose picked up the next morning. This truly is a gorgeous blend that melds with my skin as if it were made for me. Maybe in the future the Lace series could branch out to a cousin in this vein called Black Brocade. It makes me think of a séance or phantasmagoria (like that one particular postcard that’s gone out in packages—anyone who’s gotten it, you know what I’m talking about!) in a smoky Victorian drawing room, a bottle of fine cognac on the table, tendrils of incense smoke entwining with tobacco from the men’s pipes and the women’s perfumes of vanilla and exotic musks. Of course, at least one of the women would be wearing a gown of richly textured black brocade glowing softly in the candlelight. No matter how many times I wear it, Black Lace v1 will always remind me of the special connection I had in giving someone the gift of hope, of the distinctly human empathy that binds us all, even if we have never met before.

Smells like acid-free, 100% cotton 2-ply BRISTOL paper with a touch of F lead. I cannot believe how much this stuff smells like fresh paper. When I was a kid and I spent snow days at mom's office I used to huff the fresh printer paper when they first unwrapped it, and that's exactly what it smells like. Fresh with an atypical clean feeling that isn't soapy, aquatic or ozonic but hard to define exactly. There is a bit of something sharp in the beginning that quickly fades on the drydown--I think this is the lead note. All in all this is oddly comforting and nostalgic for me because of the association it has, and since I'm an artist/writer and around paper all the time, it continues to have meaning. Amazing wear too. You wouldn't think that for the type of scent it is but it lasted the entire day on me.

MOUNT MISERY AND SWEET HOLLOW ROADS Both Mount Misery and Sweet Hollow Roads are believed to be intensely haunted, and are pathways of misfortune and sorrow whose history of horrors descends deep into pre-Colonial American folklore. Black spruce boughs, packed dirt, gravel, brush, fallen chestnuts, wild tuberose, galbanum, and dead leaves. For anyone who liked Harimise or Cristina, this will not disappoint. I love the chestnut notes in those (sadly the rose geranium in Harimise made it impossible for me to wear) and this is like a smokier version. It reminds me of Cristina the most, but darker and more ominous. Thankfully I don't get OMGSPRUCE men's cologne or screaming Christmas tree out of it at all, just the spruce resin which behaves in the background. The dry leaves give it a smoky autumnal touch, and the tuberose emerges a little later and adds a sweet sensual side to it as well. Thankfully the dirt, gravel and brush keep their distance in the background with the spruce, adding to the shadowy feel but not overwhelming the blend as a whole. A surprise winner.

Aaaaaahhh......trying to choose between these two is like pulling teeth. I guess it depends on my mood and the time of day. I'm more likely to wear Snake Charmer out at night (or on a date lol) because of the red musk, but Black Lace has a mysterious vibe going on too though it is more work-appropriate. Then again no matter what time it is, if I'm craving one over the other no one's going to stop me.

When I tried this at NYCC I was like yep, I was totally right to order 2 bottles off the bat because it's delicious. Makes me think of creamy cheesecake with utterly gooey, lightly spiced apple topping, and there's also something in here, much like a caramelized and/or brown sugar note, that makes me think of streusel crumbles on top. I agree with the previous reviews likening this to Lambs-Wool meets cheesecake because it really is.

The Appalling Abbatoir. I mean, don't get me wrong, I'm not disgusted by it--in my opinion it's a fascinating scent because it smells exactly like what it's supposed to--blood and metal. The tang of the blood is there and everything! I have no idea how Beth did it but it's extremely true to life.

Hmmm....Black Pearl layered with a bit of....Bliss? Velvet? Might yield something in that neighborhood. Of course you are sorely tempting me to buy that tea now. ETA: Goblin might be a good one to try experimenting with too.

LE/DISC/RARE Whatever I can get (have tried or own some and know I love them) Egyptian Amber SN** Lughnasadh*** The Candy Butcher Proto The Confectionary proto Unseelie** Sniffies only Dark Chocolate Pumpkin King*** Nocturnus Venom SNs I haven't tried yet (have tried or own: Ambergris, Egyptian Amber, Florentine Iris, Frankincence, Sweet Pea, White Musk) TRADING POST Jonathan's Coffee House Atmo The Witch's Candy and Gingerbread Cottage Atmo*** Sojourn Down the Midway Atmo** GC (imps or bottles, I'll take it all!) Aeval Akuma Alice Anne Bonny Belle Epoque Black Annis Blood Blood Countess Bon Vivant Dana O'Shee Deadly Nightshade Honey Depraved Dirty Dragon's Milk Drink Me Eclipse Eden Evil Glasgow Goblin Gomorrah Grand Guignol Grog Half-Elf Halfling Hecate Hellcat Hell's Belle Hollywood Babylon How Doth the Little Crocodile Intrigue Jailbait Kabuki Kill-Devil La Petite Mort Lawful Neutral Paladin Pele Persephone Port-Au-Prince Queen Alice Redoul Honey Sed Non Satiata Skuld Sudha Segara The Bow & Crown of Conquest The Red Queen The Witch's Repast Uruk Whip Unimpables (prefer bottles but will take imps too) Arachne of Lydia Bette Noir Captain Cully Dawn: Maiden Dawn: Mother Grendel: Avenger Grendel: Mastermind Hunter Kaidan Lady Amalthea Molly Grue Mommy Fortuna Night's Bridge The Butterfly The East The Lilac Wood The Magdalena The Midnight Carnival The Ninth Cage Victoria Witchblade

BLUE MOON 2009: ELIZABETH'S CREATION The spirit of the full moon is capricious, intense and passionate, yet still distant, aloof and cold. Luna herself governs glamours, bewitchments and dream-work, innocent wonder, transient pleasure and delight, the Moment, impulse, mystery and veils. The Blue Moon is one of her rarest manifestations, and this scent is formulated to encapsulate her most complex and profound nature: Mugwort, for psychic sensitivity... Calea Zacatechichi, for divination through dreams... Orchid and frankincense, for complexity, wisdom and noscere... ... with a potent lunar-charged, oneirongenic blend of blue musk, exquisite woods, moonflower, Madagascan ylang ylang, Florentine iris, Greek cypress, green tea absolute, palmarosa, cucumber, Clary sage, lavender, lemon balm, and passion fruit. This year, we have two interpretations of Blue Moon: one created by Brian Constantine, the other by Elizabeth Barrial. This is Elizabeth's moon. First time I'm the first. I love blue musk, and this is a soft yet mysterious blue musk blend that doesn't disappoint! Not masculine at all. The musk just wraps it in a gauzy haze and the woods (I'm guessing some kind of sandalwood has to be in there) warm it up. Delicate moonflower weaves in and out with the other florals. I get a hint of the cypress, very appropriately wintry since it's an evergreen. I was a little afraid of the lavender and lemon balm togther but they are extremely subtle. I'm not getting any cucumber at all *sigh of relief* but I don't tend to amp it anyhow. The passion fruit comes out just a little at the end for a pleasant sweet surprise. Complex and enigmatic; beautifully done, Beth!

I can't really identify the individual flowers in this, but I can say that it is downright gorgeous and also very calming. There is a slight dewiness and a slight greenness backing all the fresh and lovely florals, and there is something of a floral-honey feel to the scent as a whole. Even with the windows closed, with this sprayed in my room it feels as if fragrant breezes are wafting in.

This is like a bit of a darker, smokier version of The Lights of Men's Lives captured in a spray. It really does bring to mind a room filled with beeswax candles that have just been blown out, leaving behind smoky shadows with a honeyed undertone from the wax. I think spraying this on my shirt and wearing Lights of Men's Lives on my skin should be fantastic.

I adore this. Tiare is only my favorite floral on earth, and mix that with lots of creamy vanilla and a hint of coconut, and I'm in paradise. It's not a sunscreen smell to me at all, more like a vanillaed monoi scent. Whenever I wear this to work people pass me just to inhale it. Amazing. Did I mention it literally lasts from one wash to the other?

Dream, I wanted to love you, but you cloyed the hell out of me. First it was almost all really strong lavender, then really intense powdery rose and lavender, and even when those finally settled down somewhat after half an hour they still didn't allow the other notes to come through enough and turn this to the calming scent I was hoping for. It just remains a piercingly powdery rose-lavender soap. Kind of ironic how Nightmare is the only one in this collection that actually calms me.

Vanilla laundry. Boober, I think I love you. When something is supposed to smell soapy and is in a completely different universe from my aunt's guest soaps, I'm all over it. Linden can sometimes go sharp or lemony on me, but not here. It just keeps contributing to the fresh and clean feel. For a moment I'm in the washroom with a great big bundle of fluffy white towels rolling out of the dryer and the smell fo sweet pink soap lingering in the air. Heavenly.

Mokey was my favorite Fraggle as a kid, both for her awesome lilac-and-mint coloring and her far-out poetic way of speaking. This deifnitely does her justice! It's a light, clean floral that makes me think of a bunch of purple flowers mixed with violet candy, and is somehow strangely calming. Fortunately I don't amp the orris above all else in this one like I did with Black Opal. I can see how this could go soapy on some people, but fortunately it just comes off fresh on me and reminds me a bit of a now-discontinued fabric softener I used to huff like mad. I swear this is a compliment!

YUM. This is as deep as Uncle Matt thinks he is, and somehow still lighthearted in all its delicious foodiness. I'd say the fig and vanilla are the most prominent notes on me, followed by a dark and earthy chocolate. I wouldn't say this is a chocolate-dominated scent, but you can tell there is a cacao note in there adding to its body. The pear and quince that sweeten it up just enough but not too much. Sometimes I've had bad luck with pear notes going cloyingly sweet, but gladly not in this case. It must be the type of pear that likes me, like that one in The Vine. Winner!

This is red alright--sweet, tangy red fruits that remind me of things like Sweettarts and all the red varieties of Starbursts. It's red fruit candy that's kept from being cloying by the zing of natural sourness from the fruit as well as a bit of a snap from the pink pepper, then made a little more grown up with the pink musk. I had to refrain from licking it off.

I initially "wembled" on this one because pineapple sometimes doesn't play nice with my skin, but Wembley seems to like me. It's a tropical explosion onf pineapple and banana wet, with a hint of mint. As it dries down the mint disappears and I slowly end up amping the delicious honey above the tang of the pineapple and creamy banana, so I get a gentle fruity honey cooled by soft white musk. Tropical honey! I'm so glad I sprang for a bottle.

This is like a creamsicle rolled in citrus Sour Patch Kids. It's more tangy citrus at first, and settles down into a delicious smooth creamsicle-like scent with cool vanilla, though with a little more variety than the traditional creamsicle becuase of the three types of citrus. This is one of those rare foody ones you can actually wear in the heat. Like everyone else, I need to keep reminding myself I can't drink it.

I waffled on this in the beginning because of the rosemary, but it turns out that barely makes an appearance at all. This is the scent of somber evening flowers towards the end of summer, chill winds hanging in the air, cool seaspray and frost just beginning to crystallize. There really is something "silvery" about this as mentioned previously, I'm taking it from the ambergris especially though I have a feeling the davana and frost notes also contribute to that feel. This is surprisingly beautiful and refereshing in a really unique way. I'm so glad I risked a bottle.

Half the notes made me cross my fingers they'd be victorious, and the other half, well....unfortunately that was the half that ended up winning. To my nose this is all bitter GERANIUM wet followed closely by tomato leaf and pimento. It's only the drydown that I get some lovely beeswax and honey in the background, but sadly not enough to take over the geranium and tomato leaf of death. Reminds me a lot of Jerusalem Cherry Honey, actually, that same standing-in-a-tomato-patch scent. Fans of that type of stuff will love this, but it's not really my thing.

I had high hopes for this, and the sparkle of citrus at the beginning helped contribute to that, but unfortunately I just amp the petitgrain too much to enjoy it. I think this scent would have worked well on me without it; bright, sunny citrus perfect for summer. However, the extent to which I ended up amping the petitgrain just gave it a bitter herbal edge that was hard to ignore.