PurringPulsar

Changing the Shadows

 

In the imp: sharp, herbal tea like neroli.

Wet on skin: cologne! This is quite perfumey.

Dry on skin: oh, this is pretty. Although this has a sharp, cologne like scent initially, this fades to give way to an incredibly gorgeous springy scent of orange blossom and sunshine, with a hint of tea. The orange blossom is the strongest note, and to me it’s less like Khrysee and more like Oceans of Love bath oil, but with vanilla instead of honey. It’s got an almost spicy neroli like edge to it. The vanilla softens the orange blossom nicely. I like the mellow yet fresh scent that the tea brings to it all. I can’t really smell sandalwood and carnation yet.

After a while: it doesn’t take long for all the sharpness to fade and what I’m left with is a glorious vanilla rooibos tea and orange blossom scent, warmed by the carnation. It smells delicate and ethereal as a shadow but it’s a scent full of light. It smells like the most beautiful spring afternoon. It has a feeling to it that I can’t put into words, but it’s like that ‘aaah’ feeling one gets when settling down with a cup of tea, satisfying and relaxed. This blend makes me calm. It also reminds me of Ra, with its blend of orange blossom, carnation and a warm sweet base (though I think Ra has amber, and this has vanilla.)

Verdict: such a delightful scent. I’ve been wearing a lot of orange blossom now that spring has finally sprung because it evokes springtime at its most confident and optimistic to me, and this scent brings to mind those days when finally winter is well and truly gone (even though this is a Yule scent), reminds me of late April and May in particular. The extra warmth from the carnation enhances this, and the slight sharpness of the orange blossom is calmed and sweetened by a stunning yet understated vanilla, and the combination of vanilla and rooibos always makes me smile because of the positive memories I have associated with that sort of tea. It’s a very uplifting scent, a scent of the shadows lifting and the light returning (a bit like Sol Invictus without the citrus and incense).

<drwhonerdiness>I also admit that I’ve been calling this blend ‘Counting the Shadows’… </drwhonerdiness>

Is it a keeper? oh yes.

If you like this, try: Ra, Time Does Not Bring Relief, Sol Invictus, Khrysee, Oceans of Love bath oil, Katharina, Ravenous

Kourabiedes

 

In the imp: a buttery sweet cookie scent-I smell a bit of booze too?

Wet on skin: whoa, clove coming through!

Dry on skin: interesting. The main scent I get here is a buttery clove with a bit of nutty almond (not almond extract, this is the scent of the nuts) and floury biscuit. There is a tiny hint of brandy or some kind of sweet, vaguely fruity booze, but it’s not the dominant scent. I really like the clove here-it has a smoky undertone that is seductive and earthy and stops it smelling too foody. I’m still undecided about the buttery scent, but the sweet nutty biscuity scent mixed with clove is very nice and smells extremely festive.

After a while: clove and floury biscuits. This is really nice. The clove is dry and a little dusty, but here it gives a floury impression, and the clove note is now a lot sweeter (just like the Sweet Clove SN actually), and I smell some more of the biscuit note. No more booze, but I smell more ground almonds here. It may be a little too sweet for me overall.

Verdict: I have a Greek friend who told me about these traditional Christmas treats (sadly she didn’t bring any over for me to try!) and the perfume inspired by those is a fun scent! It smells like buttery nutty clove biscuits with a shot of something alcoholic. The clove is the main player here, with the sweet floury, buttery and sugary base underneath and hints of almonds and brandy too. Overall this is a very festive scent. I think it’s a little too sweet for me, even though I love the clove here; the sugary and buttery notes (and maybe the booze) make this a little too rich for my tastes. Having said that I’d love to eat something that smells like this, I want to try real kourabeides now!

Is it a keeper? probably not but it smells delicious!

If you like this, try: Three Witches, March Hare (if you can find it), Copulating Mice, Sugar Cookie (any), Butter Rum Cookie

Klara

 

In the imp: soft honey and rose…a bit like Alice and Sibyl.

Wet on skin: a sharp honey-mandarin-rose combination, like Sibyl.

Dry on skin: whoa, the rose and honey here are a tiny bit sharper than I expected. I was hoping this would be like Dawn Maiden or Alice or Katrina Van Tassel, but it reminds me more of Maiden and Sibyl. I’m one of the few who didn’t like Sibyl, thought the honey and citrus mix was too sharp, and it seems to be like that here. The rose is also quite tangy. It’s not as sweet as I expected, to be honest. I was hoping for the same creamy honey as Alice. Even the carnation has a biting sharpness to it.

After a while: after a moment of ‘huh? Not SOAP?’ this then turns to the velvety honeyed rose I hoped for. Sweeter than before (though maybe a little insipid, that’s probably ylang-ylang, this flower can be a little cloying sometimes) the honey has lost the mandarin sharpness and has turned into a womanly, musky honey, blending nicely with the rose and hints of carnation. The effect I get is similar to the vanilla musk in Victoria. But I think the ylang is making the scent a little too much for me.

Verdict: Klara let me down-I really wanted to love this one, the name reminds me of one of my best friends from childhood, and I also love the Nutcracker ballet, and theoretically all the notes here should have made this scent absolutely perfect. But sadly it wasn’t to be. The mix of rose with tangy honey made sharper by mandarin reminds me very strongly of Sibyl, which I didn’t like, though I must say this one is a little bit nicer. I think the problem note is ylang-ylang, which does sometimes have the habit of turning cloying (sometimes the pure essential oil is too much for me). I think I’ll stick to Katrina Van Tassel or Dawn Maiden as my girly honeyed rose scents.

Is it a keeper? Sadly not.

If you like this, try: Alice, Maiden, Holiday Argument Diffusion Spray, Dawn Maiden, Hope, Victoria, Katrina Van Tassel, Lady Luck Blues, Sibyl (if you can find it!)

In the imp: sweet apple and honey. Like a gentler, softer Mitzvah Goreret Mitzvah.
Wet on skin: the honey is a tiny bit sharper, as is the apple, but this is really lovely, and I can smell sweet mint too.
Dry on skin: so pretty. If the apple blossom doesn’t turn bad, this could be a winner. The honeys in here are exquisite-not too sharp and stinging like some honey notes-these are all sweet, sugary honeys, golden and sticky, and this smells like honey syrup drizzled over sweet juicy apple slices. A little like Mitzvah Goreret, but with no pomegranate and hyssop, and with sweeter honey. The mint adds a fresh, almost frosty tingle to the whole scent.
After a while: I’m surprised-it smells predominantly like apple blossom and yet it works on me! I’m not sure if it’s the honey keeping the blossom in check but there’s very little of the usual soapy floral apple plastic I usually get with apple blossom. What I get is a very appealing sweet yet slightly dry apple with one of the loveliest honey notes ever, not at all sharp, very sweet but not syrupy, it’s almost like a cross between honey, spun sugar, a delicate amber and something fuzzy and musky, like a honey musk or a pale musk. The mint has that cool, almost dewy and fresh scent which lifts the fragrance. The apple blossom does have a tiny hint of that slightly bitter scent I associate with apple peel, but for the most part it’s not too distracting.
Verdict: this is what I wanted Mitzvah Goreret Mitzvah to smell like. Whilst that was a very sharp honey with an apple that turned to rotten fruit on me, this smells of the most divine honeyed apple ever. It’s the perfect honeyed apple scent, with a sweet, floaty apple blossom that smells fruity yet very gently floral, with a stunning honey note that’s sweet without being cloying and has a soft musky cosy scent to it, and there’s a lovely watery mint note too. I’m glad I managed to get a partial bottle because this scent has grown on me a lot…I wasn’t sure about the apple blossom but with a couple of tries, I know I love it.
Is it a keeper? Yes.
If you like this, try: Verdandi, Hesperides, Hony Mone, Liberty

An Appraisal of Sensual Pleasure in the Four Seasons

 

In the imp: this smells like proper frankincense, and a hint of floral. Gorgeously smoky and almost churchy incense.

Wet on skin: lots and lots of incense here, with sweet plum and flowers.

Dry on skin: ohhh!! This is beautiful! If the plum and lemongrass behave, this could be a surprise winner of the Shunga series! This is absolutely crammed with a stunning frankincense note that smells just like incense burning in a temple or another sacred space. The addition of teak and flowers makes it less like church and more like an Eastern temple. The honeysuckle is sweet and heady but not soapy, whilst the plum isn’t turning bad on me like it can do in some scents, it adds sweetness. I don’t smell any lemongrass which surprises me because usually that note is too intense. All I smell is a glorious mix of honeysuckle and incense.

After a while: frankincense still stays strong, and nothing turns bad. This is glorious. The honeysuckle doesn’t turn soapy at all, it smells like this floral note should, and the plum is very subtle. I still don’t smell lemongrass! Just a sultry, sexy scent of warm honeysuckle scented summer evening air spiced with incense. I don’t smell teak now but it seems to add a nice base to the scent.

Verdict: a beautiful and surprising scent. From reading reviews I wonder if my decant has a crazy batch variation because it's just amazing incense and no evil lemongrass or sour plums. I liked the honeysuckle in Anathema but didn’t like the opium and vetiver, but this takes that honeysuckle and substitutes a stunning frankincense note. Those are the main notes here, a glorious duo of floral and incense with a little bit of plum for depth and fruity sweetness, and some subtle teak and very minimal lemongrass. I love frankincense and finding a good honeysuckle scent is rare so I definitely need a bottle of this one.

Is it a keeper? Yes-I need more...I just hope my bottle smells exactly like my decant!

If you like this, try: Anathema, Lune Noire, Christine, The Sluggard, Chimera

Sugar Moon 2011

 

In the imp: very similar to the 08 version-heavy brown sugar, deep rose, but this time I also smell violet.

Wet on skin: deep berries and sugar and roses. I think I smell gardenia now.

Dry on skin: whoa, the sugar in here is really intense. It smells less like fresh sugar cane juice and more like the unprocessed molasses extracted from the cane. It’s a little bit smoky and very heavy. I also smell fruit notes-mainly blackcurrant, but I also smell some plum (it’s not a deep rich plum though, but a sharper type) and tangy strawberry. The rose adds a deep velvety scent. I smell hints of other flowers, and I think they are turning bad on me-especially the gardenia. The violet musk seems to be blotted out by all the other notes.

After a while: the scent then loses that molasses scent and then goes through several stages-a sweet sugary rosy musk with a hint of tangy plum, then the gardenia mellows from that sharp and almost burnt scent to a crisp clean floral. Then the scent turns to a soapy floral musk. Not as sweet as I’d hoped for, the sugary sticky scent is gone, all I smell are the flowery notes and the sharper aspects of the fruits with a squeaky clean musk.

Verdict: I really wanted this version of Sugar Moon to love me! I liked 08 but recently it’s not been working on me so I was hoping this would, despite having troublesome notes. But it was not to be. It was everything I didn’t like much in original SM (the molasses-like/maple syrupy sugar, the weird sharp berry scent) but with extra floral notes and a weirdly soapy musk that made it a little bit less appealing. I’m sad because I have the t-shirt, but I think I’ll have to pass on the perfume because it’s not meant to be.

Is it a keeper? No, I’m afraid.

If you like this, try: Sugar Moon 08, Bitter Moon, Roputznica, Knave of Hearts, King of Hearts

Lemon Scented Sticky Bat

 

In the imp: lemon and sugar, but it’s greener and fresher than expected.

Wet on skin: a blend of real lemon with lemon herbs like lemon balm, lemongrass, verbena, litsea cubeba, and sugar.

Dry on skin: that’s more like it! It smells of lemon sherbets! You know those little hard lemon shaped lemon sweets with the fizzy centre? That’s what this reminds me of. I still smell hints of lemongrass and verbena but now a proper lemon note-a blend of intensely aromatic peel and tangy juice-is dominant. I also smell some pale sugar in there. It doesn’t smell like the lemon and sugar on my pancakes, or like lemon curd, the lemon is a lot more intense and candied, almost like lemon marmalade with a shot of limoncello topped with lemon sherbets. It’s gorgeous. I also wonder if there’s lemon blossom, because this has a fresh, almost cologne-like overtone, and it contrasts with a very sweet sugar base.

After a while: I’m not sure I’m crazy about this. Don’t get me wrong, I love lemon scents, especially sweet ones, but there’s a slightly sickly feel to this that is best described as the scent of spilt lemonade (not the home made stuff, but something like 7up or Sprite) that’s been warmed by the sun and is becoming really sticky and unpleasant, like a lemonade stain. I think it’s the sugar note that’s too much for me. There’s also a whiff of plastic to it at times, and at other times I smell the gritty scent of lemongrass, or a slightly synthetic lemon that would be closer to the scent of lemon flypaper than real lemons-which fits the inspiration.

Verdict: I was looking forward to this, expecting the ultimate lemon sugar scent, and in many ways it is…so why am I not blown away? This is gloriously and intensely lemony and sweetly sugary, but I’m still wondering whether I love it or not. I love the moments when it smells like sherbet lemons, but there are times when the lemon note smells a bit too much like lemongrass and the sugar becomes a bit sickly. Perhaps vanilla rather than sugar may have been nicer? Maybe I’m just being fussy, but there are other lemon scents, like Skytyping with Chemtrails and Ides of March 2010, which are predominantly sweet lemon, and I think I prefer them to this. LSSB may be a little too much for me whereas Chemtrails does lemon sugar in a subtler way. So I decided not to keep this one.

Is it a keeper? Compared with other lemon scents it’s not a favourite.

If you like this, try: Skytyping with Chemtrails, Ides of March 2010, Great Grey Witch, Lustration, Geek Goth, Carnaval Diabolique

I think the new non-collection (not Shunga or Aphrodite etc) Valentine's labels are so cute, especially Parlement of Foules (and the Womb Furie ones are hilarious! Vibra-Finger! )

Amaterasu v3

 

In the imp: OMG!!! This has Moroccan or Nepalese amber in it! It’s glorious.

Wet on skin: amber and a tinge of frankincense, cherry blossom and spicy sandalwood.

Dry on skin: absolutely stunning. This is like a pinker Okayaki, or what would happen if L’Estate turned Japanese. It’s predominantly the most amazing amber scent in the history of forever, and reminds me of that amazing Shadowy and Sublime amber, or the Lamia prototype, or L’Estate. It’s the amber which is glowing and resinous, but with hints of cardamom and vanilla. In here I also smell cherry blossom and spicy red sandalwood, maybe a hint of frankincense. It may also have the amber incense from Kaidan/Flowering Chrysanthemums. It’s solar and spring-like at once.

After a while: amber, amber, amber. Damn I want more of this one. It’s just like the Shadowy and the Sublime, but without that troublesome wisteria, and instead it’s replaced with cherry blossom. I also smell a hint of spicy incense resins wafting up to greet the dawn. This is amazing. It’s a lot more resinous at drydown and I think I smell more sandalwood. This is nicer than v2.

Verdict: this is the scent of a Japanese sun goddess, for sure! Golden sunny amber and cherry blossoms, this evokes shades of gold and pink, the colours of a sunrise. Blushing dawn clouds and gentle first rays of morning. There’s a hint of spice too, like cardamom. Hints of frankincense and woods and vanilla add to the awesomeness, overall it’s like Bakeneko with less fuzzy musk and more glowing resin, what a combination. Such a shame it’s so painfully rare. I don’t think my tiny drop-in-an-imp will suffice!

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? YES! I want mooooooore….

Sibyl

In the imp: honeyed vanilla musk with citrus. It reminds me of Et Lux Fuit.
Wet on skin: honeyed mandarin, vanilla musk, and cognac (and anise?)
Dry on skin: this is nice! It smells of cognac, mandarin (love how strong the mandarin is here), clean pretty honey, sharp tea, and a crisp vanilla musk, and a tiny hint of rose. It reminds me of elements of Lady Lilith, La Fee Verte and, yes, Dorian, but the scent this reminds me of most is Et Lux Fuit. It’s the mix of honey, citrus and vanilla musk. The Egyptian musk used here is not the warm, velvety type from Gothabilly or Gypsy Moth, but the fresh, dewy, ‘clean skin’ scent from Mr Ibis. As a fan of Mr Ibis, that does please me. But the note that intrudes is cognac. This could be perfect, but it’s not really working out. I think it’s the cognac, it’s got that boozy, bitter undertone that I am not keen on. I’m also undecided on ‘summer honey’, it turns a little sharper and soapier than the usual honey notes-something similar happened in Victorian Garden.
After a while: I must say, I’m amazed as to how long the mandarin here lasts, usually it fades away really fast. But something about this scent smells too sharp, acidic for me. It’s not a nice sharpness, but an unpleasant artificial sharpness like the sour powder used in certain sweets (like flying saucers). I think the tea is too astringent. There’s some vanilla and musk, but not enough. And there’s a soapy tone to it that reminds me of the herbs and absinthe with honey from La Fee Verte. I think this is the cognac doing bad things on me.
Verdict: I really wanted to love Sibyl, I really did…but she let me down. I was expecting glorious vanilla and musk accented by rose, honey and citrus. But overall this is a dead ringer for Et Lux Fuit. It smells mainly like effervescent honey, lemon sherbet, sour sweets, and a really acidic white tea (not the darker tea of Dorian) sharpened even more by mandarin. The honey turns oddly soapy, and I think the cognac turns against me too. I get a vague sherbet-lemon sweetness but none of the velvety vanilla musk I expected. This is too sour for me as a whole. I’m let down, but at least I was able to swap it off.
Emoticon rating:
Is it a keeper? No, sadly. I managed a very successful swap for a scent I did love though.

Marshmallow Pumpkin

 

In the imp: marshmallow cinnamon and pastry!

Wet on skin: sweeter pumpkin pie!

Dry on skin: mmm, this is delicious! It smells like the wonderful Pumpkin Pie bath oil scent, but a bit sweeter and fluffier. The marshmallow is not as strong as Poof or Plastic Flamingo, but it does add a lighter sweetness to the pumpkin note. This pumpkin is not the buttery Jack variety, this is a mushier, pulpy scent with just a tiny bit of butter that seems more like pastry than pure butter, and heavily spiced. There’s a lot of cinnamon here, and maybe a hint of nutmeg. It’s delicious, and out of the treats, this one’s my favourite.

After a while: it sweetens a little, becoming a more balanced mix of pumpkin pie and marshmallow. It’s really lovely. The marshmallow tempers the intense spice of the pumpkin pie, but that in turn seems to prevent the marshmallow from turning to plastic.

Verdict: Pumpkin Pie bath oil is my favourite BPAL pumpkin scent (along with Pumpkin Queen but even that can be too buttery at times) and this has that exact same pumpkin scent-mushy sweet pumpkin with pastry but no blatant butter, and lots of spice. This is sweetened by a delectable marshmallow note that works better in here than in other marshmallow scents. It’s very sweet and quite rich, not a scent I can wear every day but this is one of the best gourmand scents I’ve tried-it doesn’t turn to plastic or go sickly or cloying, it just smells like perfect marshmallow topped, cinnamon spiked pumpkin pie, simple as that. Yummy.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Yes! I have half a bottle.

If you like this, try: Pumpkin Pie bath oil, any of the Pumpkin Patches, Blue Pumpkin Floss, Pumpkin Latte

Candy Corn Coated Candy Apple

 

In the imp: crisp green apple, but sweeter than the Sugar Slathered Apple scent.

Wet on skin: whoa, the apple sharpens dramatically, but thankfully doesn’t turn bad just yet.

Dry on skin: thanks to numerous free sweets (freets?) from US BPALers I now know what candy corn is, and I certainly smell it here, the soft and chewy types. But the scent that dominates above all is of course the apple. It smells a little too dry for my tastes with a bitter apple peel scent rather than a juice/flesh scent but the toffee scent in the background is pure perfection. It smells like real English toffee, like the type of toffee that breaks teeth if you’re not careful, a tiny bit buttery but it doesn’t have that cloying caramel/treacle scent that most toffee notes have, this smells like the real deal. I can’t really smell the cinnamon but I bet it’s bourbon vanilla that adds that wonderful warm richness to the sweetness.

After a while: the apple makes a comeback and it’s not a good thing. It seems to vary-I’ve tried this twice, and on the first wear, the drydown was toffee dominated, but the second time, it was full of really sharp dry apple. That spoils it a little because it was the toffee, vanilla and candy corn that appealed more than the sharp green apple.

Verdict: so far my apple scent that can do no wrong is Fearful Pleasure, and as I like apples as food I was hoping to find another apple scent that could work. I thought this would be it, but I’m not sure if this is the case. I still think the apple is too tart and sour and ‘dry apple’ for my likings. It’s a shame because the toffee here smells just like English toffee-a little bit Werthers but not as blatant, this is more like Thorntons toffee or something more home made. A hint of candy corn from across the pond and vanilla from even more exotic shores made it almost delectable, but then the apple turned bad on me. I will keep the decant of this for the sweets covering the apple rather the apple itself. I’ll stick to Fearful Pleasure for my autumnal apple fix.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? The decant.

If you like this, try: Hesperides, Treatsy, Pumpkin 1 (with mulled apple cider), Punkie Night, Samhain, Lamb’s Wool, Fearful Pleasure, Sugar Slathered Candy Apple (if you can find it)

The Infernal Lover

 

In the imp: hubba hubba! Now THAT’S red musk! Not the nag champa-ish red musk that has appeared in some recent scents, but a proper red musk!

Wet on skin: turns a little Smutty on me, but stops short of smelling rubbery/boozy.

Dry on skin: red musk of the sexiest, sultriest type. This is the kind of musk I love. It reminds me of Smut, but this is nicer, because it has all the sexiness but doesn’t smell like rubber and heavy booze. It does smell sweet though, like a vanilla bean has been languishing in the musk for some time. This is not a dry, peppery-incense type musk like some of the recent blends, this reminds me of the Red Musk SN, and it’s an incredibly dark, deep, sweetish, slightly feral and raunchy scent. This could almost be a Lupercalia scent. I don’t smell any honey.

After a while: this then transforms quite dramatically. It turns from the smutty sexy dark red musk into something I think is even nicer…a sweet red Egyptian musk! Yes! It reminds me of the Egyptian Dragon soaps by Darkswan, it has a sweet powdery dusty/sandy scent to it that reminds me a bit of cocoa at times and of sandalwood at other times.

Verdict: to me, this is a return to form for red musk. Some of the recent red musk scents seemed to have a dry, nag champa-ish feel to them, and I liked them, but I preferred the sweet, spicy, almost creamy and fruity red musk used in things like Blood Lotus, Spellbound etc, and this is definitely one of those sorts of musks. The honey adds a subtle sweetness but otherwise this is all about the musk. Calling it ‘Smut-lite’ seems almost disrespectful as though this is a lighter Smut, not as heavy and boozy and thankfully lacking that rubbery note, this is just as sexy! I especially love the drydown, when it loses that intensely raunchy scent and turns into a more sophisticated red Egyptian musk, sweeter and drier and with a pinch of honey dust. Gorgeous, and I can only imagine what sort of glorious thing it will turn into with age…

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Most definitely.

If you like this, try: Womb Furie, Smut, Lust, Spellbound, Anactoria, Now Winter Nights Enlarge, Spawn of the She Demon, Bien Loin D’Ici

Treatsy Bath Oil

 

In vial: ohh, sweet apples and lemon sherbet.

On skin: mint? Yes, this smells like mint. I wasn’t expecting that…it smells fresh and tingly, and a bit white musky? I definitely smell apple and lemon and sugar though. I’d say the apple dominates, but the lemon sugar note is really lovely, and has a sherbet-y effervescence to it. The apple isn’t too bad on me either, a rare thing with apple notes like this…it’s so much nicer than the other two apple-lemon scents: Delirium and La Vita Nuova, it doesn’t turn soapy or chemical. In fact, the apple here may be the same as the only two green apple scents that work on me: Candy Corn Coated Apple and Mock Turtle’s Lessons. Having said that, I think this would smell nicer in the bath. Some bath oils smell amazing on the skin as perfume but others smell like they’d be even nicer in a bath-this is one of them. But as raw apple scents go, this is really pretty.

The Lincoln Tunnel Vortex

 

In the imp: soap, anise, and that ethereal ‘darkness’ note from Night’s Bridge.

Wet on skin: this does smell green and glowing, and soapy, floral and medicinal.

Dry on skin: this one is weird! It is high pitched, discordant, and it smells disorientating. I smell a really nice mix of green musk, white amber and presumably davana or tea or neroli, something that reminds me of the likes of 51, Pollution, and a few of the Black Helicopter scents. It also has that cool, dewy, sparkling night air note from Night’s Bridge. However, this does have a soapy scent, presumably a floral note, and a medicinal anise undertone (and some cherry?) that reminds me of certain sore throat or cough medicine. I can’t smell much asphalt but there is a dirty, grubby note and a hint of something almost like lichen, as well as some petrol.

After a while: after a long moment of weird oiliness that reminds me of olives and aniseed with tar and a hint of petrol, this scent then lightens up a bit. The high, disorienting notes come out and they smell just like 51’s mix of green musk, white amber, light fruits and tea with airy ozone. I really like this drydown, it reminds me a bit of Chemtrails too, but without the sugar note.

Verdict: I have to admit, there is a slightly geeky reason why I was interested in trying this…the very idea of a portal to a parallel dimension in a tunnel makes me think of Doctor Who! (Planet of the Dead, if you’re wondering.) But the scent itself doesn’t seem to work out. There’s a weird oily bitter undertone to it that reminds me of bitter olive oil mixed with asphalt and anise. I think that’s the radiator fluid note? It smells a little chemical too. However, the weird para-dimensional notes evoking wormholes and time rifts do smell good here-they remind me of the white amber and glowing musk notes in sci-fi scents like 51, Skytyping with Chemtrails and Alien Invasion. Even the hint of ozone works here. There may also be some tea and citrus here, bright sparkly flowers too. But despite the concept of a parallel dimension or portal in space and time in a road tunnel greatly appealing, I’m really not keen on the weird oily undertone this scent has, I prefer the other space-y white amber and ozone type scents.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Not really.

Encroaching Madness

 

In the imp: I don’t smell urine, but I do smell old vase water. It’s not very pleasant.

Wet on skin: now I smell flowers, but they smell old and wilted.

Dry on skin: I think what I smell here is mainly helichrysum (which to me smells like camomile on steroids) and chrysanthemum. The ‘mum note is not the fresh, light, dewy type, it’s the kind that smells bitter, greenish, and a bit rancid. The helichrysum has that golden, hay-like camomile-ish scent with a hint of pollen and honey, but this also smells a bit musty and dusty. The balsam is the same one as in Anubis, a greenish-golden sharp resin. The only honeysuckles I smell here are probably incredibly wilted because I don’t smell any fresh glorious honeysuckle here. The cologne-ish floral over it all is probably hydrangea.

After a while: hmm, yeah, after a while the chrysanthemum turns bad on me and it smells of urine and unwashed morning funk. Ew. That and also the rotting flowers and damp and dry rot and dusty bouquets from before. Eventually it turns to a rotting dusty chrysanthemum scent and dusty dry blooms on a mouldy tablecloth, flowers in a vase that hasn’t had its water changed for ages.

Verdict: overall, this brings to mind the image of a room in a very, very old house, that hasn’t been touched for decades, if not centuries. In this dust caked, dark, musty room, the walls are covered in damp and rot (which makes them very yellow indeed), and there’s a bouquet of dead flowers. The room has been left like this…who knows why? Sentimental reasons maybe, or the opposite? It is a room with memories but they are not pleasant, they are uncomfortable and menacing memories. The scent of dust and rot and dead flowers and mustiness are oppressive, sour and rather rank. This scent feels unsettling and not pleasant. The atmosphere it evokes is quite incredible, it’s a scent that tells a story, but I don’t think I’ll wear this as perfume.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Nope.

If you like this, try: Chrysanthemum Moon, Ephemera, Anubis, Resurrection of the Flesh, Succubus, Tisiphone

Halloween: Brooklyn

 

In the imp: a sharp greenish floral with bright pine resin.

Wet on skin: pine resin, bright and green like crushed needles.

Dry on skin: this is really pretty. There’s a lovely natural scent of leaves and dampness from rain or dew, soft moss growing on stone, along with the (now fainter) scent of pine needles and tree bark. I don’t smell cherry or apple here at all-there’s nothing really fruity. But I do smell flowers, fresh moonflower and camellia, floral notes that are crystalline and sophisticated and give that scent of grown up perfume. It also smells like the sort of scent I wanted to get from Sky City Before-the scent of stone and buildings with fresh greenery and flowers and the perfumes of the citizens caught in the daily rush.

After a while: the scent does get fainter, but it doesn’t change too much-it now has the feel of fresh air scented with soft hints of mossy stone, a bit of water (from fountains or ponds) and leaves and flowers. I wouldn’t say it’s autumnal as such, but it’s a scent that seems to depict a city park or a leafy district of a large city in any season. It’s really pretty and light-but I wish it didn’t fade so fast!

Verdict: I think this is my favourite of the city themed Halloween scents-I wasn’t expecting it to be, with the apples and flowers, but it’s really beautiful. This has something that reminds me of the Wanderlust range to it, evocative of the mood, elegantly perfumey, but also bringing to mind some of the more pleasant scents of the place it evokes. This brings to mind waling through a city park whilst wearing a classy yet gentle perfume. This manages to be fresh yet urban-almost like a progression from Manhattan (which makes sense). Despite the fruit notes, I don’t smell any-what I get is a cool breeze scented with leaves, tree bark, grass, water, moss growing on stone and floral perfume. The only downside being that it does smell faint after a short while, but even so, I think I need a bottle.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper?

If you like this, try: Manhattan, Fox Fires on New Year’s Eve, Sky City Before (if you can get it)

In the imp: like a wetter version of Windy Moon or October.
Wet on skin: now I smell the salt, along with the soggy leaves and rain.
Dry on skin: slightly chypre-like, definitely masculine. This has an overall scent of manly cologne to it, strong and piercing and reminiscent of a sophisticated aftershave. Having said that, it also smells just like the description-I smell the wet leaves, the rain, and the sea air. I smell coastal forests (hints of wood and moss) and also shining ozone/metal that evokes the glass and steel of the city. But there’s definitely a scent of strong aftershave to it.
After a while: salty air. The cologne scent does fade away somewhat, and what’s left is the perfect sea air scent…actually this does smell a little bit like how my skin smells after swimming in the sea. I do love that. Finally, a scent that smells more like 'cool water' than the perfume bearing that name ever could.
Verdict: though this is much too masculine for me to pull off, this is actually a really effective atmospheric scent. I’m not crazy about the strong cologne-like aftershave scent, but I love the salty sea air scent. It’s not soapy or overly ozoned, what ozone it does have evokes hints of an urban landscape, skyscrapers and shining metal, but cooled with salty air and a hint of forests and parks. The wet leaf and rain notes are spot on, it feels cool and airy and wet, and the drydown is amazing, it smells just like sea air, or sea water, or that ‘beach skin’ scent I love (but without any sun lotion to it). I’m sad that this wasn’t released as a room spray, as I think this would work better as a room scent rather than a skin scent. It’s so wonderfully evocative, but I don’t know if I can stand the first hour of wear-too manly for me.
Emoticon rating:
Is it a keeper? The decant.
If you like this, try: Windy Moon, Visiting the Temple at the Winter Solstice, October, Aeaea, Kingsport

The Shadowy and the Sublime

 

In the imp: the amber here has potential to be incredible-it reminds me of spicy Nepalese amber. But there’s something that could turn weird.

Wet on skin: ok wisteria, don’t turn to evil on me. This amber is made of win.

Dry on skin: not sure what to make of this. On the one hand, it smells of truly awesome things. Like rose, and myrrh, and an amber note that reminds me of the likes of L’Estate or the Lamia prototype, as well as Nepalese amber scents from other companies, it is golden, exotic, and almost cardamom-y. It reminds me of an ambery version of that wonderful vanilla-honey-cardamom scent from Lush’s The Soft Touch. But there’s also wisteria (which smells wilted on me) and something that could turn to that odd civet note in some of the ‘manly traditional perfume’ scents. But it seems the amber is amping on me, which is fantastic.

After a while: the amber here is so beautiful! Rich and golden and with that undertone of kulfi (yes, kulfi!) that makes it even more exquisite. But I’m not sure about the wisteria here. It seems to combine with another note and gives a slightly unsettling undertone that is slightly civet-y and also smells like wilted wisteria, under the beautiful amber. Maybe the magnolia is turning bad too? It’s not the lovely Yvaine magnolia that is good on me. It’s a shame really because I am sure this is the amber from the Lamia prototype. It reminds me of the Maltese Cross from CD too, which is good because that scent improved greatly with age.

Sadly the wisteria does take over, despite the fact that the amber has amazing throw and is the main scent away from the skin. Close to the wrist…not so good.

Verdict: I am so confused by this scent! The amber in here is stunning and unique-I haven’t found anything similar in any other BPAL scent, it’s a glowing, sweet, golden scent infused with vanilla and cardamom, exotic and comforting. I am in love with this amber, along with the supporting notes of myrrh and rose. But there’s something else here that isn’t working, and I think it is wisteria. Bad, bad wisteria. Even the awesomeness of the amber doesn’t block out this pesky floral note, which turns to bad wilted bitter floral fail, and even turns somewhat animalistic on me here. I will keep the decant of it solely for the amber, but wisteria puts me off getting a bottle.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Not sure yet.

If you like this, try: Her Voice, Odd Portents, L’Estate, The Maltese Cross of Sanctus Germanus, Two Loves

Summer’s Last Will and Testament

 

In the imp: citrus, but it’s borderline soapy-herbal.

Wet on skin: blood orange bursts into life and I think I also smell geranium.

Dry on skin: this is nice. It reminds me very much of Piper at the Gates of Dawn. But this has the pine in Piper replaced with herbal notes and autumnal floral and leafy notes. The citrus notes are no longer soapy, but whoa they are strong! This is one of the most powerful citrus scents, is it the amber that’s magnifying them so? The blood orange and also something that reminds me of grapefruit are dominant, and they evoke shades of gold and red, like a sunset. I can’t really smell amber but the autumn leaf note smells lovely, it isn’t at all like the one in October, I’d say it’s more like the one in To Autumn? I can also smell a rich geranium note, which makes me happy because it’s not often that geranium is strong.

After a while: after a moment when an odd earthy-dirty herbal note comes through, this then mellows very nicely. The citruses seem to melt into the amber, which I now smell, and it actually reminds me a bit of white amber, but the amber then darkens as the scent develops. I think the myrrh adds a touch more resinous goodness to this scent, I think I also smell a bit of spicy marigold.

The scent morphs incredibly, sometimes I smell more of the sunflower, sometimes more of the myrrh, at other times I smell more of the earthy, mossy notes. It’s also amazing how long the orange note sticks around, I think it’s held down by those wonderful warm sweet resins.

Verdict: I love how Beth creates perfumes that are very hard to pigeonhole into a particular category like ‘foody’ or ‘floral’ or ‘woody’. This is one of them-it’s one of the most intriguing, unique scents I’ve come across. Though it’s predominantly citrus, with the blood orange leading the way, this is no ordinary citrus. It’s a dark citrus, not bright and sparkly but evokes the deepest red-orange, and is weighed down with earthy leafy notes, with the resins adding a golden glimmer. The geranium adds its warm balmy scent and the flowers are subtle yet add yet more dimensions to this already complex fragrance. This scent is a work of art, less like a perfume and more like an olfactory painting, very evocative of summer’s last stand against the encroaching autumn-I can really sense the turning of the seasons here, the lengthening nights, the reddening sunsets, leaves falling and the last warmth of summer just barely lingering. It’s beautiful and fascinating, and unlike any other perfume I’ve tried.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Definitely.

If you like this, try: Piper at the Gates of Dawn, Pepper, Death of Autumn, Three Gorgons, Sunflower, Maltese Cross of Sanctus Germanus

Meditation in Autumn

 

In the imp: ivy, wood, and a hint of cologne.

Wet on skin: greenish ivy and vines with something perfumey.

Dry on skin: this one is really interesting but I’m not sure if I’m keen on it…the thing that intrigues me is the vine note. It really does smell like ivy, thick and green, it smells just like the smell that lingers on your hands when you’ve been pulling away thick vines or overgrown ivy. This really smells like thick, overgrown greenery, a bit weedy, but much thicker. The thing I’m not crazy about here is the cologne-like or perfume like undertone this has. It smells like men’s perfume, and a tad mainstream, even a bit like ozone. It has a sharpness that reminds me of mainstream men’s deodorants or ‘sporty’ perfumes.

After a while: this seems to alternate between smelling purely of thick deep green vines and the less pleasant smell of sporty perfume every now and then. But it seems to smell more and more like the masculine perfume smell. Where’s the sandalwood? The drydown reminds me of the likes of October (the first version) and Windy Moon, both of which turned to sharp manly perfume on me. I’d say this is a bit more woody and vine-y.

Verdict: not for me, I’m afraid. There is something that smells sharply, aggressively aftershave-y in here, manly perfume and ozone-scented sporty deodorant. The vine note is intriguing, it really smells authentic. Reminds me of helping out with the gardening, the smell of clearing away the ivy that grows in places where it shouldn’t grow. But the perfumey undertone really grates. I don’t even smell the sandalwood, a note I normally love. I think I’ll stick with Blade of Grass for my autumn fix.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? nope.

If you like this, try: Twisted Oak Tree, Wiley’s Swamp, Thorns, Windy Moon, October

Lotus Moon 2010

 

In the imp: amber, pomegranate and…grapefruit? Huh?

Wet on skin: grapefruit. This is a very bitter grapefruit and it’s quite disconcerting. It’s blocking out all the other notes.

Dry on skin: not sure about the grapefruit. What is doing that? It’s a bitter grapefruit peel scent as opposed to a fresh juicy grapefruit, which I like. It’s strong and strident and seems to be blocking out all the other notes, and that’s a shame because the other notes smell really good. I can detect a really gorgeous creamy lotus note, hints of resin-touched rose, and deep red pomegranate. But I can’t enjoy those wonderful notes if that irritating grapefruit peel note gets in the way.

After a while: the grapefruit does fade away thankfully, and what is left is really beautiful and sophisticated. It’s very slightly reminiscent of the old Lotus Moon, but it’s also very different. It’s a bit more perfumey, it reminds me of a posh perfume or body lotion, it smells expensive and grown up. A luxurious lotus gilded with amber and with ruby red accents of pomegranate, a hint of smoky incense. It’s got a silky, creamy smoothness, a hint of sweetness.

Verdict: still unsure about this one. Theoretically I should adore it as all the notes work on me. But I can’t get over the odd grapefruity scent that obstructs all the lovely notes. This weird, strident, bitter grapefruit peel scent does fade after some time to leave behind a beautiful scent, golden and classy, it smells dignified and regal, gold and red velvet, reminiscent of some of the palace themed scents like Versailles and the Haunted Palace, though this seems to evoke more exotic places, hinting at Egypt and India. It does remind me a bit of the original LM but I think this one is more complex, less candied and actually less lotus-y. I still think I prefer the 06 version, I would adore this version if it wasn’t for that annoying grapefruit! I hope that disappears with aging.

Emoticon rating: then

Is it a keeper? one bottle, definitely.

If you like this, try: Lotus Moon 06, Blood Lotus, Kurukulla, Persephone, Haunted Palace, Versailles

Hatshepsut v11

 

In the imp: rich sweet amber incense and maybe some fruit?

Wet on skin: the golden lotus of Lotus Moon, as well as amber and maybe red wine?

Dry on skin: this is such a beautiful scent. I can’t say what it contains but I’m going to guess…amber, golden lotus, myrrh, red wine, maybe some frankincense, spices, herbs, some kind of raisin like dry sweet fruit or a deep berry note? It’s gorgeous. It has a wine soaked myrrh scent that reminds me of Haloa and the Magi. It has an amber gilded lotus scent that reminds me of both Lotus Moons and Bastet. It also smells a bit like the TAL Queen of the Nile, funnily enough. I wouldn’t be surprised if this was crammed with myrrh, it was Hatshepsut’s favourite scent after all. I also think I smell a hint of Egyptian musk, like the one in Gothabilly?

After a while: this then settles into a beautiful sweet wine and myrrh scent with accents of amber, lotus and spices. It’s warm, rich red-purple with gold and amber flashes, incredibly regal and dignified. It feels luxurious and golden, evokes the colours of a sunset.

Verdict: my favourite of the Hatshepsut protos, this is a glorious amber resin and deep red fruit scent. This reminds me of Lotus Moon 2010 to an extent, but without the lotus and odd grapefruit note, and with extra resins and fruit added. It feels noble, luxurious and makes me think of ancient treasure and precious cargo from the land of Punt containing exotic fruit and resins and jewels and gold, along with offerings of rich red wine, incense, and sweet amber. I am so glad I managed to get a bottle of this beautiful scent and I hope that one day the finished version of Hatshepsut comes out and it smells somewhat similar to this, or has something along the same amber-fruit-resin-spice theme.

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Definitely!

Loli.Goth

 

In the imp: strawberry ice cream!

Wet on skin: strawberry sweets, creamy iris, pink musk and a bit of peach.

Dry on skin: I like this! This has the same pink musk as in Vasilissa, a fresh yet fluffy musk which has a slight perfumey tang to it, and that balances out the overall sweetness of this blend. The strawberry note is so pretty; it’s a creamy sweet berry that smells just like ice cream. No plastic, no odd acidic sharpness. There’s also a bit of the raspberry that was in the White Choc and Black Raspberry Truffle scent. I can’t really smell peach or woods, but the iris has a gorgeous scent that is creamy (without being foody) and dewy and floral all at once.

After a while: this then settles in to the prettiest pink scent of musk and iris with a little bit of wood to ground it. The fruity notes are still there and I do detect a hint of something candied, but it’s not as sugary sweet now, it’s a lot more sophisticated. The pink musk is just like Vasilissa but I love the iris in here, it smells so fresh and cool with hints of powder, like the delicate scent of a real iris flower. It reminds me a bit of Black Pearl without the coconut…maybe more of a Pink Pearl.

Verdict: this is my second favourite of the Goths. This works a lot better on me than expected-the strawberry, a note I want to love but is so often a disaster on me, works perfectly here, as a creamy ice cream type note, and I adore that. The peach is subtle but adds extra fruitiness to the strawberry and raspberry pinkness. The musks, woods and iris on the other hand are perfect counterbalances to the sweet candied creamy fruit, grounding the scent, stopping it from being too gourmand and oversweet, and making this mature. Girly, youthful and pink but not childish. I’m so glad I was able to find a bottle of this one!

Emoticon rating:

Is it a keeper? Yes and I found a bottle!

Gaudium

 

In bottle: geranium. The same fantastic geranium as Holiday Stress Relief.

On skin: geranium, verbena, and a gorgeous orange note. This actually turns really citrus-y on the skin, with citronella-like verbena in the lead, followed by that gorgeous bitter orange (smells a bit like dried orange peels mixed with bergamot and combava, not at all sweet or juicy), not much grapefruit, it seems overpowered by the other citrusy notes. I can’t smell lavender, but I do smell the most wonderful Bourbon-type geranium, the same one from HSR. I love geranium, so this makes me happy. I do wish the verbena could calm down a little, it is a little strong, and despite this smelling gorgeous, it also reminds me of a mosquito repellant I bought in Turkey. That stuff did smell nice, but I don’t want to be reminded of being attacked by buzzy biting things. But it could mean this stuff would repel mozzies too? The drydown is pure bitter orange-and I like that, because orange notes are not known for lasting long…but then it turns soapy, probably the work of the verbena. So maybe this isn’t the replacement for HSR that I’ve been looking for…