PurringPulsar

Eight Petalled Lotus

In the imp: COMPLETELY different from the sweet, pink, bubblegummy Lotus SN that came out ages ago. This is fresh, tart, watery and grapefruity (of all things).

Wet on skin: fresh and crisp with a bitter fruity scent.

Dry on skin: this one is intriguing. It’s not a bubblegum lotus like Black Lotus, Undertow, Naiad etc. nor is it the smooth golden lotus from Bastet or Glowing Vulva. This is the lotus note from the 2010 incarnation of Lotus Moon-I was puzzled as to why that scent had a grapefruit note to it, and now I realise it’s this particular lotus. Though in here it’s less fruity than LM 2010, and not sweet. I think this is also the lotus in Creeping Mist. There’s an aquatic or blue musk feel to it. It’s very clean, but not soapy. It’s floral but not heavy. It also reminds me of Ophelia (which has waterlily) and Danube (even though there is no lotus note listed, but maybe there’s waterlily or lotus in the aquatics in there) and also one of the Japanese scents-I think it’s the Fox Ghost one-that has blue musk and resins.

After a while: this does fade fast. The wet, grapefruity floral scent from before has toned down and now smells crisper and whiter, almost like linen but not as dry or washing powder-like, but it’s not very strong.

Verdict: if you think you hate lotus, put your preconceptions about this flower aside, and try this. It seems there are many varieties of lotus and this one is a perfect waterlily scent, fresh and wet, clean and tart, slightly grapefruity, slightly ozone-y or blue musky, and with a blossom-like floral aspect. This is a very refreshing scent that’s perfect for spring or summer, light and dainty but also ethereal. Like Spanish Red Carnation this is another very complex single note, lots of dimensions to this seemingly simple floral.

Is it a keeper? It’s very pretty but it fades too fast on me.

If you like this, try: Lotus Moon 2010, Ophelia, Danube, Creeping Mist

Aunt Rosie’s All Purpose Cephalopod bath oil

(Skin test)

In vial: rice flower and astringent tea. A lot more tea-heavy than expected.

On skin: sharp greenish-black tea, a bit like fresh Tattered Lace, with undertones of coconut and sweet rice and a surprisingly strong hit of raw ginger. Not floral ginger, but the slightly lemony ginger from Kumiho or Baobhan Sith that seems to team up with the tea to make a very sharp citrus-astringent-spicy scent. I was hoping for a bit more creaminess from the coconut and rice milk, but those notes aren’t as strong as the sharp notes. The ambergris adds a bit of a ‘perfumey’ scent to the tea-ginger combination.

The drydown reminds me of a coconut version of Tamamo No Mae! It’s got a similar blend of sweet floral-creamy rice and benzoin with a sharp fruity tea and ginger combination. This would layer nicely with Tamamo and also Hungry Ghost Moon (both versions).

Blossoms in Springtime

In the imp: a very buttery vanilla, like cake batter or buttercream.

Wet on skin: now I smell more of the copal/amber and honey, and vanilla flower.

Dry on skin: the vanillas are a combination of gourmand sweetness and something a bit more floral and musky. The resinous notes here are fabulous, the copal doesn’t smell too perfumey and the antique amber is an incredible golden scent with a hint of spice, like Nepalese amber. The honey is very similar to A Wonderful Light, probably because of the beeswax-it’s not a sticky or sharp honey, but there is more of a hint of pollen here (though that may be the helichrysum). The lotus I smell is the soft velvety petal scent from Glowing Vulva. In fact I agree with other reviewers in that this seems like the best of Glowing and Giant Vulva.

After a while: this is what I wanted O to smell like! This is a wonderful mix of amber, honey/beeswax and vanilla. The vanilla is strongest, and it doesn’t smell as buttery but it still has a foody richness, almost like vanilla cream. The amber stops it from turning cloying or overly gourmand though, and adds a glowing golden resinous aspect to the scent. The honey is much more subtle, I smell more of a waxy honeycomb thing going on, it’s not as sticky-honey scented as Giant Vulva. This is also softer and sweeter.

The vanilla gets stronger and richer as time passes, smelling less foody and more like a deep sexy vanilla with a hint of floral, it reminds me slightly of that amazing Elf v4 prototype, except with added amber and honey/beeswax.

Verdict: this is as amazing as I expected. A must for lovers of vanilla, this shows off vanilla to its full potential whilst still being different to the likes of Celeste or Love’s Philosophy. It’s a well-balanced blend of gourmand, resinous and floral elements. Golden notes of amber, honey, beeswax and copal boost the vanilla and the lotus and helichrysum add the gentlest touches of flowery prettiness without overtaking the vanilla goodness. I also love the way the vanilla improves on the skin over time, I’d imagine this scent to age incredibly well. I need more of this one.

Is it a keeper? definitely one bottle, maybe two!

If you like this, try: Glowing Vulva, Giant Vulva, A Wonderful Light, Celeste, O, Love’s Philosophy, Snake Oil

Hungry Ghost Moon 2011

In the imp: a slightly dissonant blend of ginger, slightly sour cream, and a sharp perfumey scent shooting right through the scent.

Wet on skin: not too bad now, the perfumey scent is still there, the sourness has gone but the ginger has amplified.

Dry on skin: this is weird. There’s a very grainy scent to it, like porridge. Maybe it’s the rice note? It smells less sweet than the usual rice note, and before long it seems to turn from a slightly oaty or brown rice scent to a really realistic white rice scent, like the scent of steaming rice served on palm leaves. I’d say it’s somewhere between long grain and basmati. Other than the rice, there’s also a very strong ginger note. Not crystallised ginger, not fizzy ginger ale, not dry ginger, but the smell of freshly cut ginger or ginger juice. It’s tangy and fiery but with a greenish-yellow tinge. I swear I smell coconut milk, even though it’s not listed, as well as lemongrass and/or grapefruit. I get a feel of Thai food from this. The musk note does smell strident and almost perfumey, clean and bright. I don’t smell wisteria.

After a while: this is one of the most changeable perfumes ever! It’s morphing constantly. The steamy rice and Thai food scent then turns to a weird gingery sour milk scent, halfway between White Rabbit and Sudha Segara. Then it turns into an odd dusty hay-floral scent with ginger. And then it turns into sharp cologne. There’s even a fleeting moment when this smells like the original HGM. But the drydown after a few hours is all about the sandalwood and musk, and far from being crystalline and ethereal, this is a musk that is dark and deep but warm. It smells very much like the musk in Oblivion or Morocco (because of the sandalwood), but it doesn’t have the sweetness of Morocco-in fact, where is the vanilla in here, or the candy notes? and I do think there’s some myrrh here too.

Verdict: very, very different to the 2006 version. I love the original and the way all the complex notes interact to create a seamless blend of citrus, musk, resin, candied ginger and woods, very coherent, balanced, fresh and bright but also very stable-it doesn’t change too much. This, on the other hand, is the mother of all morphers. There’s an emphasis on gourmand notes, with creamy ginger and fragrant rice, it seems the ghosts in this scent are hungrier. Then there’s a jumble of musks, resins and citrus, and the scent seems to change every few minutes-from ginger to musk to grapefruit to resin. It’s quite an olfactory rollercoaster ride, but a bit too much for me, it’s like the scent can’t make up its mind on what it wants to be. I prefer the coherence, stability and fruitier scent of the original.

Is it a keeper? no.

If you like this, try: Hungry Ghost Moon 06, Sudha Segara, White Rabbit, Shub Niggurath, Mother Ginger, Maison en Pain D’Epices

In the imp: herbal lavender and a hint of something soapy.
Wet on skin: not soapy and more, it’s actually a purple musk with lavender.
Dry on skin: ooh, this is pretty. This reminds me of a lighter, less sweet version of the Emathides. It’s very much about lavender and violet with a hint of dark amber incense and musk, a dry blackcurrant note and some woods. I can’t smell fig here yet but the combination of all those deep hypnotic purple notes is quite something. The scent has a surprisingly clean feel to it, but not soapy. If the amber and musk get a little stronger this could be a winner.
After a while: SOAP. Powdery dusty soap. I am very disappointed. The amber and incense notes are nowhere to be found, all I can smell is a violet musk that has lost it’s character and has turned to a grey, powdery and slightly old fashioned smell with a hint of hotel soap to it. No fig or currant at all.
Verdict: this one really, really let me down. I was hoping for something reminiscent of Odd Portents, and I usually love those lavender-blackcurrant-amber-incense blends, and I can’t work out which note what malfunctioned on me because the note list suggested this would be amazing. It started out nice with its lavender-violet-fruit-incense scent, but then it turned to an awful dusty soap scent, like washing powder and cheap violet-scented soap blended together. All those lovely notes from before were gone. What a shame…
Is it a keeper? no.
If you like this, try: On Darkness, The Emathides, Ninon, Odd Portents, Penumbra

The Phoenix at Midnight

In the imp: whoa, rosewood and plenty of it! It’s a harsh, almost medicinal wood in here.

Wet on skin: so much rosewood. I hope the musk and honeysuckle come out soon because the wood here is amping to the heavens.

Dry on skin: spicy, sweetish, dry rosewood. Not as medicinal but it does have that dry rose petals and sawdust smell going on. I think I smell a pleasant jasmine note underneath, as well as a cool dark iris. The wood does seem to calm though as a velvety musk seems to rise up through the scent. No honeysuckle here yet but the floral notes are very pretty, like dewy night flowers, this reminds me a bit of the scents inspired by bats. I think this has the potential to turn into something amazing but I think the notes need to settle…

After a while: and settle they do, and as predicted, this does turn into something fantastic. A haunting blend of iris and dry yet warm wood with the kind of furry musk that makes me want to nuzzle my nose in my wrist in glee. The iris is sweet yet slightly watery and fresh, but it becomes more of a dusty orris a few hours later. The jasmine is so faint, as is the honeysuckle (unfortunately) but I’m pleasantly surprised at the rosewood-normally I’m not crazy about it but here it works very well, reminding me a bit of the sandalwood-orris combo in Staged Moon Landing.

Verdict: this is my favourite of the 2011 phoenix scents. It’s a really beautiful, cool nocturnal musk and despite containing jasmine and rosewood, it works really nicely on me. It reminds me of Cold Hour of Dawn, but it’s darker, warmer, and more mature. The musk and iris go really well together, and the rosewood adds a nice base, this wood is almost spicy in this scent. The only thing that disappoints me about this scent is the lack of honeysuckle…I was hoping it would show up but I think either my skin eats the BPAL honeysuckle note, or it’s a very quiet note. Even the jasmine is quiet here. But that doesn’t matter because this scent perfectly captures the mysteries of the midnight hour.

Is it a keeper? I managed to get a half bottle.

If you like this, try: The Cold Hour of Dawn, Silver Phoenix, Staged Moon Landing, Bat, Blue Moon 2010 (Beth’s), Parthenope

Tears, Idle Tears

In the imp: soft salty-sweet water. It has the sweetness of the river/lake scents but also a hint of salt to it.

Wet on skin: oh my. This reminds me of my Egyptian lotus perfume.

Dry on skin: really beautiful. It reminds me first and foremost of a perfume a friend got me from Egypt, which smells like blue lotus. This doesn’t have lotus as a note but I smell it, a fresh clean floral with a watery scent. however I must say that this one is a lot saltier than the Egyptian perfume, it’s like a lotus flower with a splash of sea water. It also reminds me of the brackish scent of Coney Island Creek, but a lot more feminine. It also reminds me of Penthus, the scent of tears and roses. I think I smell a tiny bit of resin and wood.

After a while: a fresh aquatic floral. This reminds me of Sea of Glass now, but with that lovely blue-white flower note that makes me think of waterlily. It still reminds me of the lotus scent, but it’s now a bit ozone-y like some of the sea air BPALs, and there’s a light musk, maybe white musk, but that could be the orris. Not much rose or amber at this point (other than a bit of warm sweetness).

After a few hours I smell more of the olibanum, and a very gentle oude note-not the usual dry woody scent I get from that note. But the dominant scent is still that of the aquatic notes.

Verdict: this is a surprisingly nice aquatic! It’s not soapy; it smells fresh and clean without smelling like washing powder. It reminds me of the Nile goddess inspired scents, or of blue lotus Egyptian perfume, but there’s a bit more saltiness here. The ‘tears’ note here smells more like a sea breeze to me, it’s airy, almost like ozone. I like the way the other notes ground the scent though, especially the resins that come out more as the scent develops. It’s a very pretty scent, but I’m not sure if it’s a favourite.

Is it a keeper? I may keep it but I think there are other scents like this that I prefer.

If you like this, try: Sea of Glass, Pool of Tears, Penthus, Epitaph, Hatmehit, Festival of Anuket

Blood and Champagne

In the imp: a blend of champagne with Coca Cola, and vanilla amber! The oil is champagne coloured with no obvious dragon’s blood redness.

Wet on skin: it smells like Coke, all bubbles and fizzy brown sweetness.

Dry on skin: the champagne smells just as effervescent and oddly gin-like and soapy as the one in Sangria Champagne (smells more like G&T than champagne to me), but instead of citrus and red wine, there’s a Coke scent which I am sure is due to spices and resins. I smell vanilla and amber (maybe Nepalese amber?) I am also sure that there’s myrrh and/or opoponax, or whatever it is that’s in Schwarzer Mond that adds that very pleasant Coke-like scent. There may also be some spices like a mild cinnamon or clove note. Maybe even some lime? One thing that seems absent is the blood…or at least, dragon’s blood. Maybe the blood here is more like the spicy and musky blood accord.

After a while: this reminds me a bit of the Magi at times, but the Magi has a lot more emphasis on resins, and a much, much milder champagne note. The champagne in WC scents is too much for me…it’s still going strong with its extremely fizzy fragrance. It’s not as soapy/ginny now, it smells more like ginger ale, and I really like the sweet resins underneath. This reminds me more of one of the numbered prototypes that doesn’t have a proper name, maybe PRC12? It also reminds me of something from Chaos Theory. The scent then settles into an effervescent resin scent, at this point I smell more clove and also something that could well be dragon’s blood-it’s got that red and chemical scent I recognise from that note. It isn’t strong though. I swear I smell a tiny, tiny amount of vetiver.

Verdict: this one is intriguing. It smells like Coca Cola with extra fizz, maybe a blend of Coke and champagne. It’s not as dragon’s bloody as I expected, and there’s a lot of incense and sweetness going on, a bit of spice too. It’s more like champagne and sweet myrrh with Blood Amber (with an emphasis on amber), as well as the clove-patchouli-metallic red musk scent I get in the ‘blood accord’ perfumes. The drydown has more of a slightly smoky vetiver, vanilla and clove thing to it, a bit like Blood Kiss but not as intensely bloody/dark or fruity. I’m still not mad about the WC champagne scents though, as the champagne note seems to be distorted once it develops on my skin, but this is probably my favourite of the series.

Is it a keeper? not really.

If you like this, try: Blood Amber, The Magi, Sangria Champagne, Blood Kiss, Blood

Beaver Moon 2011

In the imp: strong lavender and a bit of creamy honey. This must be the cheesecake version.

Wet on skin: the lavender and honey go together really well, and the creamy undertone has hints of vanilla and crushed biscuits.

Dry on skin: mmm, this is definitely the cheesecake version and it is really good. The lavender is a sweetish, heady, almost ambery version, and it’s the dominant note here. The honey is more like a sweet glaze or a fluffy nougat scent-a bit like the white honey in Valse Finale or the Half Elf prototype. The cheesecake isn’t as strong and cream cheesy as the previous Beaver Moons (and doesn’t seem to smell plastic like BeaverVersary), but it has that same heavy vanilla cream and crushed biscuit base thing going on, and there’s even a hint of cinnamon. I think the lavender stops the cheesecake note from turning cloying.

After a while: I spoke too soon when I said ‘no plastic’. I now smell a faint hint of plastic. It’s a little hint of that ‘doll head’ scent that I get from other cheesecake scents. Thankfully it is faint and the gorgeous honey note is keeping it under control. I love the honey here; it reminds me of nougat or white chocolate Toblerone, it’s got hints of beeswax/honeycomb and cocoa butter to it.

Verdict: I’ve tried both versions of BM 2011, and I can see why people are going crazy over the cheesecake version. It really is good, and I’m not the greatest fan of sweet cream cheese/really creamy dessert notes. I love sweet lavender scents, lavender-vanilla combinations, lavender honeys…I think this is the nicest Beaver Moon so far because it’s not too cloying despite the obvious cheesecake base and a particularly gourmand sugary ‘whipped honey’ note. The lavender keeps the foody notes toned down a bit, and the honey here is so good anyway that even if the cheesecake does go a little bit plastic at drydown, I don’t mind. I’m certainly keeping what I have of this.

Is it a keeper? just the decant.

If you like this, try: other Beaver Moons, Victorian Garden, TKO

Waraizome

In the imp: candied lemon verbena. I have a feeling this will be all verbena and little else on me.

Wet on skin: less sweet, more herbal, there’s a tiny bit of anise but it’s subtle. This is mainly verbena and camomile now.

Dry on skin: cologne. This smells just like proper eau de cologne now, it’s strong and lemony and sharp. It reminds me of a cross between Tartine et Chocolat (the first perfume I ever wore) and those lemon refresher towels they give you in Chinese restaurants or on planes. The anise and sassafras give it an almost clinical undertone that reminds me of pure alcohol, the kind used to dress wounds. The camomile is gorgeous but it’s totally smothered by the lemon refreshing towels and alcohol smell.

After a while: cologne, verbena and a hint of cold herbal tinctures. I’m surprised this doesn’t have white tea or absinthe as notes as there are definite hints of both scents in here. There’s something to this, most probably the moss, which reminds me of the smell of spas or saunas, that steamy, mineral-herbal scent, very clean without being soapy. I’m a bit sad at the lack of camomile, but the sandalwood shows up a few hours later.

Verdict: this one is strange. I knew it wouldn’t do so well on me and I was right. The verbena, as predicted, amped up as soon as it hit my skin, and turned the whole thing into the scent of lemony refresher towels, right down to that hint of alcohol or cologne they have. Then the anise comes out more at the end, and the whole thing ends up smelling like some kind of clear booze or even something medicinal. I didn’t get much of the camomile and sandalwood. Not my thing.

Is it a keeper? no.

If you like this, try: Mocking the Invisible World With Its Own Shadows, Phantom, Arcana, Absinthe, Embalming Fluid

Ondurdis

In the imp: yup, it’s Skadi alright. Iced-up berries and snow covered pines.

Wet on skin: frozen pine and berries, with a hint of spicy holly berry.

Dry on skin: this scent is cold and bracing and clears the nose, which fits the winter wind description. I think there’s eucalyptus or camphor here, or a menthol component, or maybe wintergreen? Something here smells vaguely medicinal, but it doesn’t get in the way of the fact that this is definitely reminiscent of Skadi. I haven’t tried that scent for ages but this does remind me of what I remember of it-the same frozen berry note with a hint of festive spice, the same icy evergreens, that slushy scent which is almost like sugary citrus at times. I’d say this has a stronger menthol or ozone note though.

After a while: after a moment when the fruity notes here start to smell fermented and off, this then turns nice again, but has lost the piercing coldness it started with. It now smells like sugared winter berries with a hint of pine needles. Not bad. Warmer and sweeter than Skadi, I think. It’s actually reminiscent of Winternights by Arcana. However there’s a downside to this scent and that is that it is very faint! The almost ice cream-y berry scent needs a lot of sniffing close to the wrist to really appreciate it.

Verdict: this, as expected, is very similar to Skadi-it has the same blend of ‘classic BPAL snow’ with red berries and frosted pines, except this one is fainter and has a tendency of fading rather fast, something I don’t think Skadi did. The first few minutes of wear are best, where you can smell the iced berries and snowy mountain forests with a brisk coldness like camphor/menthol that suggests winter wind. This then quietens to leave a hint of sweet berry and pine needles, but it’s such a faint scent, and disappears after about two hours. It’s pretty but too short lived.

Is it a keeper? no.

If you like this, try: Snow Moon, Skadi (if you can find it!), Yellow Snowballs, The First Soft Snow, Snow Bunny, The Old Goblin, Snow Maiden

Anyone have pics of the BPTP Lupers, or more BPAL Lupers?

The Phoenix at Dawn

In the imp: smells a bit like lemonade or Sprite. The champagne note reminds me of the WC exclusive scents.

Wet on skin: fizzy! This smells like a citrus soft drink, and the bubbles going up your nose.

Dry on skin: now it smells like Lush! yes, really! It smells like that lemony, rosy, ‘bath bomb dust’ smell you get in a Lush shop. There’s a carbonated scent there (thanks to the champagne). There’s a floral note now, lots of rose and orange blossom, as well as effervescent grape and lemonade, a hint of bitter grapefruit peel and a tiny bit of vanilla musk to soften it all up. I swear I smell lime too even though it’s not listed. It’s a very happy scent, very optimistic. It reminds me a bit of Sol Invictus but with a lot more citrus and with rose instead of resins.

After a while: the grapefruit sticks around for a lot longer than expected, and it smells a little too bitter for me. It’s not like the grapefruit from Schrodinger’s Cat which is more of a juicy smell, this reminds me of grapefruit peel. Now that the lemon and orange and rose have calmed a little, I smell more of the champagne, and I’m not sure if I’m crazy about it. It has that weird fizzy yet oddly metallic gin-like scent that I wasn’t so keen about in the will call champagne scents.

Verdict: you can’t help but smile when you smell this, it’s so ebullient. It’s the antithesis of me in the morning-instead of hitting the snooze button for the millionth time; this phoenix is raring to go as soon as the sun is up, full of optimism for a new day. And it probably started by taking a bath with an assortment of Lush bath bombs instead of a shower, because that’s what this really smells like to me in the just-dry stage. It’s very chirpy and joyful with its fizzing citrus and roses and vanilla and I like it, but the drydown is flat champagne (and juniper?) and bitter grapefruit, I’m not so keen on that, especially because the rose, vanilla and orange blossom seem to disappear by then. Seems this phoenix eventually got burnt out after getting up so early. Shame, because I really liked the Lush-like scent I get in the first hour of wear.

Is it a keeper? probably not.

If you like this, try: Sol Invictus, Bess, Catherine, Changing the Shadows, Bijoux Yha’nthlei, Ra, La Vita Nuova, Champagne and Roses

Senelion

In the bottle: rich, dark, sexy red musk. Mmmm…

Wet on skin: ohh, is that Nepalese amber, with its hint of cardamom?

Dry on skin: the scent still has that raunchy musky undertone with an amber glow, but what I smell now is the camomile-quite a lot of camomile, the lotus root and orris, maybe the mallow, and a tiny, tiny hint of anise. This is really lovely-there is a hint of some of the lunar scents to it, like the Blue Moon or Black Moon scents, with those pale floral and herbal notes, but there’s that wonderful deep musky scent underneath. Very unusual and delightful.

After a while: the musks get stronger once more after that moment with the floral/herbal/pale and dusty lunar notes. The red and black musks are fantastic-rich and dark and slightly sweet, there’s something almost reminiscent of Infernal Lover and Panther Moon to the musk notes here. The camomile sticks around too but I really like how it interacts with the musks. I’ve not smelt this combination of notes before.

The drydown is just the most perfect sexy red musk ever. Oh yeah. The amber adds a hint of sweetness and golden luminosity but it’s really dominated by the musks, red musk with a shadow of black musk underneath.

The red musk and amber then become the dominant notes, the sweet golden scent of the amber with an almost fruity darker musk underneath. This musk is the same gourmand red musk that’s in the Soldier and Red Lace, it seems almost like it’s got hints of raspberry or some other kind of red fruit to it as well as vanilla. I agree with comments about it being a darker L’Estate too, because of the amber.

Verdict: warning, lots of superlatives coming up…this is my favourite of the lunar eclipse scents so far! Take the most delicious of musks and the most gorgeous spiced amber, put them together with a sprinkling of lunar and solar herbs and you get one of the most beautiful scents from BPAL. It starts out with the herbs, predominantly camomile and orris/lotus, but gradually the musks strengthen, merge with the amber, and the drydown turns into the best kind of ultra-sexy exotic gorgeousness that Beth excels at. That’s no exaggeration, it really is that good. In fact I’m lucky I managed to find a reasonably priced backup bottle because I have a feeling it’s going to age amazingly well.

Is it a keeper? hell yeah, I’m so happy I’ve got two bottles of this!

If you like this, try: Lunar Eclipse, Penumbra, Labores Solis, L’Estate, Blue Moon (especially Brian’s, or the 07 version), Black Moon (any), Midnight Kiss, Schwarzer Mond, Red Moon 07, Red Lace

:love!:

Black Bear Moon

In the bottle: honeyed hazelnuts, almost grainy berries and a pine resin note that smells like frankincense.

Wet on skin: rich hazelnuts with a dark and fruity undertone.

Dry on skin: this is a cosy scent. It smells of the same roasting chestnuts and hazelnuts combination from Nut Crack Night spray, but instead of caramel, there’s honey (which I prefer). It’s very rich without being creamy. There’s also the acorn note from Oak Moon, which also smells very rich and nutty. The cherry note is very subtle. Other than a dark fruity undertone (not too sweet though) I can’t really pick out cherry, but I do get the impression of cranberries and maybe blackcurrants here. The berries have the potential to go quite sharp and I hope they don’t ruin this. I can’t smell as much of the pine now, and I don’t get the fur either, but there’s a similar quality in this scent to Luna Negra or Schwarzer Mond, only less resinous and with nuts.

After a while: the scent sweetens a bit more, and this reminds me of a kind of berry flapjack or crumble, which is no bad thing! Not as buttery as actual flapjacks or crumble, but the nuts seem to add a similar gourmand vibe. I swear I smell oats though, something that reminds me of cereal. And there’s that warm fruity filling, those cherries and berries reminding me of berry compote. I want to eat this up! The sad thing is I don’t seem to get the ‘cat belly’ everyone raves about but I do love smelling like fruit crumble! It manages to be foody on me without smelling sickly sweet, there’s a bite to the berries here. Seems fitting for the bear cub imagery-very cute, but with a bit of fierceness.

The scent then develops a slight hint of fuzzy sweetness that reminds me of the ‘animalic’ note in Hunter Moon and other mammal themed scents that smells like furry musk, but it’s very quiet compared to the berries.

Verdict: this is one of the cosiest scents ever made! It makes me want to snuggle down on a chilly day with a good book/film and eat fruit crumble, for that’s what this scent smells like to me-a berry crumble full of nuts and black cherry sauce. It’s warm and rich and smells edible, but doesn’t smell cloying thanks to the slight sharpness of the berries and cherries. The acorn and hazelnut are strong and the honey adds the right amount of sweetness. I wish I got the ‘cat fur’ note (I do get a dark furry musk after a little while) but I’m happy with the yummy scent I get, it’s comforting and perfect for those depressing winter days.

Is it a keeper? yes!

If you like this, try: Brood XIX, Halfling, Luna Negra, Oak Moon, The Soldier, Berry Moon 2011, Hunter Moon 2011

You could always send an email to the lab to ask about which honey and beeswax scents actually contain ingredients derived from real honey and beeswax, and which are made from purely vegan accords.

Oak Moon

In the imp: the cologne-soaked autumn leaves from October, and wood.

Wet on skin: piercing green cologne with mushy wet leaves and sweetish wood.

Dry on skin: this is transforming. The dominant scent now is the oak note from Antikythera Mechanism, Haloes etc. it’s a pale, greenish, sweet wood almost like teak, but with more of a barky, leafy scent. Like sappy wood, freshly cut timber. I also smell a nutty scent that I’m sure is the acorn note, because it reminds me of Brood XIX. There’s also a weird, boozy note that reminds me of whisky (or whisky barrels) that I’m not keen on, as well as a hint of the cologne from before. But it seems to be developing a hint of vanilla.

After a while: there’s still a hint of that boozy scent (now reminding me more of cognac than whisky) but now this has turned into a glorious vanilla wood! It’s like a lighter version of Tree of Life, lacking the cocoa and mandarin, it’s a sweet wood scent that’s almost creamy. The acorn here reminds me of hazelnut, it’s smooth and rich and a bit gourmand. It’s just a shame there’s that cognac-y note getting in the way. I never get any of the berries mentioned in other reviews.

Verdict: this one started off smelling rather strange and unpleasant but this has such a fantastic drydown. At first it smells like dead leaves preserved in whisky and cologne with a hint of sweet wood, but then the boozy elements fade gradually to reveal the perfect smooth woody sweetness, like vanilla extract stored in oak barrels. The acorn provides an almost creamy nut scent. It smells almost like an edible tree, if such a thing were to exist. It’s not perfect because of the lingering odd booze note, but the sweet nutty vanilla infused oak I get from here at the end is worth the wait.

Is it a keeper? I will keep my decant.

If you like this, try: Tree of Life, Antikythera Mechanism, Brood XIX, How Doth the Little Crocodile, Haloes, Sonnet D'Automne

The Moon Gazed on my Midnight Labours

In the imp: clove and musk, and something almost like patchouli.

Wet on skin: warm clove, musk and a bit of dusty orris.

Dry on skin: seems like my suspicious were correct-Moroccan musk does indeed smell like Morocco. That’s what this scent reminds me of at first. The clove takes the place of Morocco’s carnation and plays the same role, as the two notes smell quite similar. There’s a bit of orris, a note common to many of the lunar scents, giving the scent that familiar pale, dusty feel, reminds me of Morocco’s sandalwood. And then there’s the opium. In here, thankfully, it works. It’s a hypnotic, hazy note, not medicinal, perfumey or really strong, this is like the opium from Clermont, which smells more like incense than the traditional perfume scent I get from other opium scents. It doesn’t amp up either, it seems that all the notes are very balanced here. This is a really gorgeous scent.

After a while: the scent doesn’t change much, but that’s a good thing because I love what it smells like already. If anything, the clove and opium are darker and deeper, and the musk is sweeter than before. It still reminds me of Morocco, but more nocturnal.

Verdict: this was the Frankenstein scent I was looking forward to most, and it turns out to be my favourite in the collection. I imagined it as being a sultrier, darker version of Morocco and that’s exactly what it is! The Moroccan musk smells warm and sweet and velvety, the clove is as fantastic as usual, the orris adds a hint of pleasant powderiness. I was a little worried about the opium, but in here it works fantastically, it’s a smoky note snaking through the scent, giving the whole scent a dreamy haze. I don’t get soap or cologne here, nor do I think this is masculine, to me it perfectly illustrates the mystery and and magic of a moonlit night. I think I need a bottle of this haunting scent.

Is it a keeper? definitely, I need more!

If you like this, try: Morocco, Staged Moon Landing, Blue Moon 2009 (Beth’s version), Cytherea

Old Moon 2011

In the imp: a very leathery scent with a hint of cologne, reminds me of U.

Wet on skin: perfumey leather! Is that rose?

Dry on skin: this smells mainly of leather with lots of heavy perfume. The leathery scent is worn and dusty, and it reminds me of a cross between the leather from U and the leather from Dee. The ‘vintage perfume’ I smell here is dominated by rose and some more masculine aftershave-type notes. I can’t smell the old books yet, but there’s a hint of something that reminds me of old photos, or photo film, and also a scent that reminds me of old newspapers-it’s very inky. There is probably some tobacco here, as I smell a hint of ashes and cigars in this scent. I can’t smell the vanilla musk mentioned by others. I can smell a deep green scent from the vines, reminds me of the greenery in U, but it’s a deeper, ivy-like, less grassy green.

After a while: unfortunately for me, this does contain tobacco, and lots of it, and it’s the bad variety. This now smells of cigarettes and burning on me, as well as hints of classic chypre aftershave and dead roses. There are old books and photos here, but it seems that they are on fire, as this now smells like charred paper thanks to the tobacco. There are also hints of cigars and whisky here. But I'm saddened by that unexpected tobacco note amping like crazy and blocking out most of the other notes.

Verdict: I was really looking forward to this, the reviews were so favourable and I wanted this to evoke the scent of old things in the best way possible. This does smell of oldness, that’s for sure, there are hints of yellowed pages, dusty and wilted bouquets, worn leather and ink here, but there’s also a strong whiff of men’s perfume and worst of all, it has the tobacco note that goes straight to ashtrays on me. And that’s all I smell for much of the scent. None of the vanilla or musk, just cigar and cigarette smoke and ash. It reminds me, if anything, of the scents that evoke gentleman’s clubs and secret societies, and some of the Dogs Playing Poker line. Not my thing at all.

Is it a keeper? Sadly not.

If you like this, try: Buggre Alle This Bible, U, Dee, Lurid Library, Philologus, Romanti.Goth, Black Lace, Riding the Goat, A Bachelor’s Dog, Hellfire, The Committee of 300

The Last Evening of the Year

In the imp: sour rose cologne and a hint of pine.

Wet on skin: whoa, soapy and dusty linen!

Dry on skin: an intriguing mix of spiced rose, clean linen, dust, and the BPAL snow note. The rose has a hint of cinnamon to it, which is very pleasant. It reminds me of Harlot, but not as strongly spicy, there may be clove here too. The rose also reminds me of Touched Twice, it’s strong but youthful. The linen note is a cross between the freshly laundered variety and something a little more dusty and moth-eaten. There is a hint of the snow note here, the same one from Snow Maiden or Snow Moon, it’s got a pine scent to it and there’s also a hint of red berry. There’s a strange dissonance here between the warm rose and berries and spices with the chilly linen and snow.

After a while: soapy powder. Gone are the snowy skin and the spicy rose, all I smell is dusty but very clean linen, and washing powder. It’s much too detergent-like for me. The powdery scent with the faint remnants of rose reminds me of a kind of old fashioned potpourri smell.

Verdict: this scent does tell a story as I first apply it…I get spices and remnants of Christmas trees suggesting festivities and happiness, mixing with opulent rose perfume, but all that contrasts with the scent of a young but vulnerable little girl dressed in rags shivering in the cold. It’s really amazing how Beth does it. I can understand why she cried when she made these scents. The drydown is disappointing after the poignant first stage of the scent (it turns to a generic washing powder smell with very faint rose) but I’m impressed by how the scent can really capture the emotion of what it describes. Not a ‘Happy New Year’s Eve’ scent by all means, but as a piece of perfumed narrative, it works.

Is it a keeper? probably not, but I admire it for what it is.

If you like this, try: The Pool of Tears, Penthus, Dirty, Snow Moon, Touched Twice, Tears, Idle Tears

Thousands of Lights

In the vial: hmm, this smells like antiseptic or non-minty mouthwash. Not sure what that’s about.

Wet on skin: no more antiseptic, but there’s a distinctive, almost effervescent scent of frankincense and saffron mixing with citrus.

Dry on skin: this reminds me of No 93 Engine and Aelopile. The dominant scents are frankincense and saffron, and when mixed with wood and citrus, they make a scent that’s fizzy but also fiery and dry. Overall this scent is golden, almost metallic. There’s a similar scent in Labores Solis, but this reminds me primarily of the Steamworks line. I can’t really smell the vanilla or beeswax yet. It’s very pretty and there’s the potential for it to get even better at drydown.

After a while: the beeswax scent isn’t as strong here as No 93, but I can smell it more now, along with a smooth, sweet vanilla. The saffron, frankincense and bergamot scent is still dominant though-it smells glittery and golden. The champaca is very faint here, which is interesting because normally I amp champaca.

The drydown after a few hours is spicier than I expected, lots of saffron and hints of frankincense and wood. Maybe the champaca is doing this? I had a similar reaction with the champaca in Golden Apple of the Sun.

Verdict: in contrast to A Wonderful Light, this scent is less like candles and more like sparklers, rather than glowing gently, the golden light of this scent scintillates and crackles. Almost like the younger, more festive sister of No 93 Engine, this scent has a similar resin-citrus-saffron thing to it but it smells livelier. The combination of saffron and frankincense has an unusual fizzy orange scent on me but in here it works very well, and it’s very saffron-y at the start, but it smooths out nicely once the beeswax and vanilla come in. It’s more evocative of New Year’s Eve than Christmas to me, and has the same feeling of optimism and radiance that A Wonderful Light has, only with a bit more glitter to it.

Is it a keeper? yes-I have a bottle on order.

If you like this, try: No 93 Engine, Pallas Athene, Aelopile, Robotic Scarab, A Wonderful Light, Labores Solis, Golden Apple of the Sun

A Torrent of Light

In the imp: fresh and bright, eucalyptus that clears the nose, with a perfumey undertone.

Wet on skin: frosty mint and a jolt of eucalyptus with white amber.

Dry on skin: ozone leaps out, mixed with white amber, with the eucalyptus and mint lingering. These notes are like a winter wind, clean and clear, piercing and chilly. The kind of cold that cuts through you. The ozone here is of the electrical variety, not as sharp as the one in Lightning, but it has a crackling, metallic quality to it. The ozone and amber do combine to give a scent that reminds me of sporty perfume or clean linen, very clean and refreshing. The eucalyptus does clear the nose and mind but doesn’t smell medicinal.

After a while: it smells perfumey now. Gone are the mint and eucalyptus, the ozone and amber stick around and it smells a bit like a mainstream perfume now. Not in a bad way, but I’m not sure I’m keen on it. Reminds me a bit of something I’d smell in a West End department store. It reminds me of Ether and Pollution as well. The ozone is all that’s left after a few hours, very little white amber remains by then. At this point the ozone reminds me of Archangel Winter, but a bit sharper and soapier.

Verdict: a blinding white light is what this evokes, like a bolt of lightning. It is almost icy but not quite, it’s even more luminous than that. It’s a flash of eucalyptus and mint with electric ozone and white amber. Quick as a flash the cold notes fade to leave an ozone-amber scent (with emphasis on the ozone), which unfortunately is a little too much like generic perfume for my tastes. I prefer Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, which is similar but has more complexity. Though this may be worth putting in a locket for that initial mind-clearing 'zap' that I get from the wet stage.

Is it a keeper? no.

If you like this, try: Pollution, 51, Alien Invasion, Ether, The Coil, Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, Parsifal

A Wonderful Light

In the vial: sweet honey sharpened by orange.

Wet on skin: tangy orange with a mellow honey note that smells of beeswax!

Dry on skin: this isn’t just orange…this is an orange pomander! Studded with cloves, trimmed with a bow with a cinnamon stick, and hanging from a Christmas tree! Yes, I smell the spices and even a hint of pine here, and there’s a glow of beeswax candles here. This is fabulous! It reminds me of Hanerot Halalu, but even nicer, sweeter, less oily. I can’t smell the linden, vanilla or amber, but there is an underlying sweetness to it. But the dominant scent from this is warm beeswax and orange pomanders.

After a while: the pomander stage was short lived, but that’s no bad thing because then the amber comes out. It mingles beautifully with the honey, the beeswax scent remains but I smell a separate rich gloopy honey-this is honey straight from the comb. It’s made even more golden by the amber, and the vanilla sweetens the scent even more. It’s a shame that I don’t smell any linden here, but I’m not complaining, the mix of honey, amber and vanilla in here blows O and Et Lux Fuit out of the water.

Only after a few hours does the linden make its presence known, that delicate and elusive blossom gilded by honey and amber. It now smells like a mellow June afternoon.

Verdict: a wonderful scent! This is what I wanted Et Lux Fuit to smell like! This is such a beautiful scent, really uplifting and full of hope and warmth, it truly glows. Starting with a festive pomander scent of spiced oranges and beeswax candles, it then morphs into the perfect blend of honey, vanilla and amber. I can’t stop sniffing it; it’s like sunshine and hugs in liquid form. The linden is shy and only comes out once the honey-amber-vanilla party has calmed a little, but it’s probably the prettiest linden BPAL I know of. I think I need to stock up on this one because it really is as fantastic as I hoped it would be.

Is it a keeper? definitely-must order a bottle or two asap!

If you like this, try: Lights of Men’s Lives, Hanerot Halalu, O, The Lion, Et Lux Fuit, L’Estate

In the imp: ohh, soft vanilla and bergamot and white musk. I have a feeling this scent will be a sister scent of Lyonesse.
Wet on skin: so pretty…the bergamot in here is glorious, and it mixes perfectly with the musk and vanilla.
Dry on skin: mmmm, this is the lovechild of Dorian and Lyonesse! Not at all savage or deathly, but very ladylike, and sophisticated. I smell a very polite caraway note-not as strong as Khrysopelex, but there’s enough to give the scent a spicy bite. The bergamot-vanilla-musk reminds me of Dorian or Theodosius, and also Prince Lir, but the jasmine makes it a little bit more feminine.
After a while: now it ends up smelling like the Girl! I love the Girl, so this makes me happy-I now have something to replace it when I run out. I think it’s the combination of jasmine, sweet amber, musk and the hints of cool darkness in the background-something about the wormwood reminds me of the chilly and slightly aniseed-y birch note in The Girl. It still has that hint of Dorian to it, thanks to the earl grey scent of bergamot and the soft vanilla musk. The caraway adds a tiny hint of something fiery and gritty though…subtle, but enough to make this smell less ghostly and chilly than The Girl.
Verdict: I love this! A pleasantly tangy bergamot tea and a fantastic jasmine note (a rare and wonderful thing when it comes to BPAL and my skin chemistry) mixes perfectly with a sublime base of white musk, amber and vanilla. The result is a scent that is womanly and refined with velvety sweet musky warmth, the sort of scent that gets me sniffing my wrist compulsively. There’s something strong and assured about it as well, but in an understated way (not as feisty as Heroine or Boadicea), maybe from the citrus and spice notes. This one’s a new favourite.
Is it a keeper? yes! I will have to get a bottle once I’m done with my decant.
If you like this, try: Dorian, Theodosius, Prince Lir, The Girl, Mastermind, Lyonesse, Gypsy

In Brightness and in Joy

In the vial: syrupy fruit and florals and a touch of orange blossom.

Wet on skin: red berry jam with orange blossom and other flowers.

Dry on skin: not bad! The berries in here are very nice, but there’s the risk that they could become oversweet, as they remind me of the jammy yet unidentifiable red berry scent of Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly. The orange blossom contrasts the sweet berries with a surprisingly sharp scent, more like petitgrain than delicate orange blossom. Maybe the angel’s trumpet is sharpening it up? Sometimes that happens with white pungent floral notes. I can’t smell the rose, frankincense or sandalwood but I’m sure they’re in there.

After a while: still sweet, maybe a bit too sweet, fruit jam, with a hint of Turkish Delight to it-I think that’s the rose. It seems to be turning into an orange blossom tinged rose petal and berry jam. Still no sign of the frankincense or sandalwood, but this is pretty.

The scent doesn’t last long on me, and I never got the more incense-y scents from here, which is a shame. But the rose petal and berry jam drydown with a hint of orange blossom water is so nice. Not as sweet, and the orange blossom has lost its sharpness.

Verdict: I do wish this scent were a little stronger and with more prominent rose and incense notes because it’s very evocative of the concept. The sweet berry and zingy orange blossom, once they settle down, evoke a feeling of joy-it's hard not to smile when you smell of Turkish delight...the berry has an almost jelly-like scent that along with a bit of rose, it smells like some kind of squishy pink confection. It’s really pleasant and uplifting, but perhaps a little too sweet, and ultimately it didn’t last long on my skin.

Is it a keeper? unfortunately not but I enjoyed trying it.

If you like this, try: Changing the Shadows, Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly, Dance of the Mirlitons, Seraglio