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I really wanted to like this one. In the bottle, it's very complex and hard to describe. There's a sharp floral note, underlaid by smoke, tobacco, and maybe a hint of the absinthe from the description. On me, all of the complexity disappears and it's just mad, screaming florals (in a bad, bad way). Just doesn't work for me. And it makes me sneeze. Had to take it off immediately.

My first thought: Caramel corn. I also get some tobacco, and a dirty earthiness that I love. I also get a very light, subtle floral note of the kind that I like -- not too sweet. On wet, the tobacco is much stronger at first, but after a couple of minutes it calms down and is quite true to the bottle scent on, although there's an added complexity. I really like this one. May have to snag a bottle.

I definitely get the cedar and vanilla from this, with a touch of leather. A little cinnamon too; there's some spiciness. Had my husband try it first, and he found it a bit too generic-men's-cologne. Like, "Oh, it's men's cologne. That's nice." It's just not very interesting on him. On me, it's spicy and complex at first, and I had high hopes for it, but then it kind of disappears.

This is very true to the Lab's description. Green tea, lemon verbena and jasmine all the way (I haven't quite figured out what neroli smells like yet). It's quite pretty. It also stays quite true on me, both wet and dry. When dry, the lemon verbena is definitely the top note. It's nice. I think of it more as a spring scent.

Luperci (2008) In the bottle, this is a very green scent. Sort of pine-y, but not Pine Sol. Must be the juniper. I get a tiny bit of the beeswax, a little musk. It's earthy and complex. A little hard to describe. On wet, the musk is more apparent. The earthiness remains, and the juniper is more subtle. As it dries, this becomes quite subtle. My hubby says it's very complementary/similar to my natural scent. It doesn't disappear, though. This is a good one. Subtle and natural. I like it.

LUPERCIPiss off, Saint Valentine! Lupercalia is an ancient Roman celebration, held on February 15th, that kicked in the advent of Spring with a very, very festive purification, fertility and sexuality ritual. The ritual began near the cave of Lupercal on the Palatine, an area sacred to Faunus, as well as Ruminia, Romulus and Remus. During Lupercalia, Vestal Virgins first made offerings of sacred cakes to the fig tree under which the she-wolf suckled the Sacred Twins. A dog and two goats were then offered in sacrifice to Faunus. The blood of the sacrifice was smeared onto two naked patrician youths, who were assisted by the Virgins, and the blood was wiped clean with sacred wool dipped in milk. The youths donned the skins of the sacrificial goats, wielding whips made from the goat skins, and then led the priests and the Virgins around the pomarium, and around the base hills of Rome. This was a ceremony of great happiness and merriment, and was of particular interest to young women: being touched by the goat-whips young men that led the procession ensured their fertility in the coming year. It is believed that, after the initial rite, male participants would draw the name of an available maiden, with whom he spent the rest of the night. This scent is for the Luperci, the Chosen of Faunus, the Brothers of the Wolf: raw, down and dirty patchouli, Gurjam balsam, and essence of Sampson Root sweetened with the heightened sexuality of beeswax, virile juniper, oakmoss, ambrette seed over honey and East African musk. In the bottle, this is a very green scent. Sort of pine-y, but not Pine Sol. Must be the juniper. I get a tiny bit of the beeswax, a little musk. It's earthy and complex. A little hard to describe. On wet, the musk is more apparent. The earthiness remains, and the juniper is more subtle. As it dries, this becomes quite subtle. Ben says it's very complementary/similar to my natural scent. It doesn't disappear, though. This is a good one. Subtle and natural. PHANTASMThis delicate, spectral perfume gives rise to an eerie distortion of of the senses. It bestows an ephemeral, ghostly, and truly haunting quality to your presence. Green tea, lemon verbena, jasmine and neroli. This is very true to the Lab's description. Green tea, lemon verbena and jasmine all the way. It's quite pretty. It also stays quite true on, but wet and dry. When dry, the lemon verbena is definitely the top note. I like it. THE BOW AND CROWN OF CONQUESTAnd I saw, and behold a white horse: and he that sat on him had a bow; and a crown was given unto him: and he went forth conquering, and to conquer. Nobility and haughtiness befitting the Antichrist: sage, carnation and cedar with lavender, vanilla, white musk and leather. You definitely get the cedar and vanilla from this, with a touch of leather. A little cinnamon too; there's some spiciness. On Ben, this is a bit too generic-men's-cologne. Like, "Oh, it's men's cologne. That's nice." On me, it's spicy and interesting at first, but then it kind of disappears. PENNY DREADFULAlso called Gallows Literature. A dime novel rife with melodrama, horror, madness and cruelty; a ten cent analogy of vice and virtue in conflict. Soft perfume evocative of noir heroines over rich red grave loam. Caramel corn and tobacco. Earthy, with a very subtle floral note of the kind I like — not too sweet. On, the tobacco is stronger at first, but balances out after a couple minutes. The floral is even more subtle, but still present. Stays pretty true to bottle scent. I like this one a lot. TAVERN OF HELLSometimes I would venture from my sepulchre to the jazz of night Paris, where having gathered the colours, I would think them over in front of the fire. I could be seen walking through a funeral corridor of my house and descending down a black spiral of steep stairs; rushing underground to Montmartre, all impatience to see the fiery rubies of the Moulin Rouge cross. I wondered thereabouts, then bought a ticket to watch frenzied delirium of feathers, vulgar painted lips and eyelashes of black and blue. Naked feet, and thighs, and arms, and breasts were being flung on me from bloody-red foam of translucent clothes. The tuxedoed goatees and crooked noses in white vests and toppers would line the hall, with their hands posed on canes. Then I found myself in a pub, where the liqueurs were served on a coffin (not a table) by the nickering devil: "Drink it, you wretched!" Having drunk, I returned under the black sky split by the flaming vanes, which the radiant needles of my eyelashes cross-hatched. In front of my nose a stream of bowler hats and black veils was still pulsing, foamy with bluish green and warm orange of feathers worn by the night beauties: to me they were all one, as I had to narrow my eyes for insupportable radiance of electric lamps, whose hectic fires would be dancing beneath my nervous eyelids for many a night to come. White gardenia, ambergris bouquet, lavender fougere, orange blossom, melissa, tobacco flower, coriander, ebony wood, ylang ylang, absinthe and aged whiskey. In the bottle, flowers, smoke, and maybe a hint of the absinthe. It's complex and interesting. On wet, it's immediately over-the-top floral (and not in a good way). This does not improve when dry. Sadly, just doesn't work on me. CTHULUIf I say that my somewhat extravagant imagination yielded simultaneous pictures of an octopus, a dragon, and a human caricature, I shall not be unfaithful to the spirit of the thing. A pulpy, tentacled head surmounted a grotesque and scaly body with rudimentary wings... It represented a monster of vaguely anthropoid outline, but with an octopus-like head whose face was a mass of feelers, a scaly, rubbery-looking body, prodigious claws on hind and fore feet, and long, narrow wings behind. This thing, which seemed instinct with a fearsome and unnatural malignancy, was of a somewhat bloated corpulence... A creeping, wet, slithering scent, dripping with seaweed, oceanic plants and dark, unfathomable waters. This scent is really hard to describe. It's definitely a "wet" scent, and I get the water plants. Maybe a hint of citrus. It's kind of seaweedy, but not in a beachy way. On, it's pretty much the same. Not really for me.

INFERNOThe Dark Side of Fire: cinnamon, bitter almond, and neroli. Heavily spiced, torrid, and possibly conflagrant. After reading the reviews of Inferno, I tested this one carefully. Luckily for me, I don't seem to have a problem with the cinnamon. In the bottle (and on wet), this is definitely an inferno. Like red hots. Once I give it awhile to dry, however, it mellows considerably and I get this nice cinnamon-almond-smoke scent. I like it.

After reading the reviews of Inferno, I tested this one carefully. Luckily for me, I don't seem to have a problem with the cinnamon. In the bottle (and on wet), this is definitely an inferno. Like red hots. Once I give it awhile to dry, however, it mellows considerably and I get this nice cinnamon-almond-smoke scent. I like it.

Asked my husband to try Chaos Theory IV (CLII) today, and as I suspected, it totally works for him. My bottle is quite masculine, with quite a bit of leather and tobacco, as well as cinnamon and other spices. Very nice.

ALL NIGHT LONGAs if the name didn't spell it out for you. This blend relieves all sexual inhibitions by simultaneously relaxing and arousing. I really wanted to like this one, so I gave it a couple of tries. In the bottle, I get a lot of cinnamon, and maybe a little cedar. The combination is nice. On me, however, it's not very nice. While I still get the cinnamon, it's underlaid by this powderiness that's just not cool. TWILIGHTAn enigmatic, otherworldly scent, brimming with power and mystery. Lavender and jasmine, with a touch of glowing honeysuckle. In the bottle, you definitely get lavendar and jasmine. It's very pretty. On me, however, it just smells like Pine Sol. Anyone want to trade for either of these?

In the bottle, I get a lot of cinnamon, and maybe a little cedar. The combination is nice. On me, however, it's not very nice. While I still get the cinnamon, it's underlaid by this powderiness that's just not cool.

This is a very outdoorsy, natural scent. I can definitely smell the olive leaf and raspberry leaf, and just a hint of the cedarwood. The combination of scents is very autumnal, like apples and hay. Very nice.

ALECTOUnceasing In Anger Olive leaf, raspberry leaf, vetiver and cedarwood. This is a very outdoorsy, natural scent. I can definitely smell the olive leaf and raspberry leaf, and just a hint of the cedarwood. The combination of scents is very autumnal, like apples and hay. Very nice.

In the bottle, this smells very true to the description. I get plenty of almond, layered with lovely jasmine and musk. It smells wonderful. Unfortunately on me, it smells just awful. The almond disappears, and the jasmine becomes overpowering and harsh, with a strong herbal scent, like sage. Definitely not for me. Off to the swap list.

In the bottle, this one seems interesting. Ethereal and woodsy, although a bit floral for my taste. Unfortunately on me, it smells exactly like Mrs. Meyers geranium-scented cleaning products. These are great for scrubbing my bathroom and kitchen, but I don't want to wear them. Off to the swap list.

This was on my wish list, and I was so excited when I got it as a frimp with my July LE's. In the bottle, it smells wonderful. Warm vanilla and exotic spices. As the lab description says, it just smells warm and golden. On wet, even spicier, with that wonderful vanilla under it. Sexy! Ten minutes later: NOOOOOOO! Baby powder! Sigh.

In the bottle, I get some very interesting citrus. Starfruit? It's not quite grapefruit. Cucumber, agave and a tiny bit of light musk. On, it's very citrusy. The cucumber and agave are much more subtle, but the underlying musk does come through. There's also something about it that definitely makes me think of the sea, although I can't quite put my finger on it. I like this one. It's lighter and fresher than my usual style, but it's really nice for summer.

CLII (152) In the bottle, this one smells very strong. Clove, and maybe a bit of menthol smell. Pepper. It's very complex. On me, it's pretty harsh at first, but softens once it's dry. Again, complex and hard to describe, but it seems a bit masculine for me. Going to try it out on the hubby.

In the bottle, very pretty. I definitely get the purple musk and.... maybe lilac? Must be the moonflower. On me, the musk softens and it smells fruity and sweeter. I think that's the pomegranate. It reminds me of Bordello, only muskier and less boldly fruity (definitely no bubblegum here). The tobacco comes through subtly, too. Very nice. I like it.

I ordered the July LE's, and they arrived Saturday. In addition to Chaos Theory IV, Sturgeon Moon and Penumbra, the labbies sent frimps of The Lion, Ouija, The Bow and Crown of Conquest, Alecto, Succubus and Twilight. Here are reviews of a few of those, plus Salome, which I recently got from an eBay order. CHAOS THEORY IV: THE EDGE OF CHAOSEach bottle of Chaos Theory is truly unique, a fragrant fractal, and exercise in the joy of chance and uncertainty! Each is a one-of-a-kind, utterly random combination of scents, the composition of which is based on whim, mood and gut instinct. In the bottle, this one smells very strong. Clove, and maybe a bit of menthol smell. Pepper. It's very complex. On me, it's pretty harsh at first, but softens once it's dry. Again, complex and hard to describe, but it seems a bit masculine for me. Going to try it out on the hubby. STURGEON MOONA month of bounty, when the fish are plentiful and the corn grows high. This is the scent of breezes passing over the Great Lakes, mingling gently with traditional lunar herbs. Sandy shores and sweet fresh water, lichen, green algae, and whitestem pondweed, with benzoin, cyclamen, moonlit musk, cucumber, blue poppy, and agave. In the bottle, I get some very interesting citrus. Starfruit? It's not quite grapefruit. Cucumber, agave and a tiny bit of light musk. On, it's very citrusy. The cucumber and agave are much more subtle, but the underlying musk does come through. This one is pretty nice. It's lighter and fresher than my usual style, but it's really nice for summer. PENUMBRAThe observer's space within a partial eclipse. Rich purple musk, moonflower, red sandalwood, black amber, oakmoss, copal, lavender, neroli, tobacco, and pomegranate. In the bottle, very pretty. Definitely get the purple musk and.... maybe lilac? Must be the moonflower. On, the musk softens and it smells fruity and sweeter. I think that's the pomegranate. It reminds me of Bordello, only muskier and less boldly fruity (definitely no bubblegum here). The tobacco comes through subtly, too. Very nice. I like it. THE LIONThe dry, glorious warmth of the Savannah. A golden, spiced amber, proud, regal and ferocious. This was on my wish list, and I was so excited when I saw the frimp. In the bottle, it smells wonderful. Warm vanilla and exotic spices. As the lab description says, it just smells warm and golden. On wet, even spicier, with that wonderful vanilla under it. Sexy! Ten minutes later: NOOOOOOO! Baby powder. Sigh. OUIJALush parlor rooms draped in thick velvets and gilded in gold, unearthly whispering in the distance, fleeting flashes of wraithlike figures rushing just outside your vision, the chill of a phantom presence brushing by your cheek, the inscrutable knowledge that disembodied eyes are peering at you from darkened corners… this is the essence of Victorian-era spiritualism: rosewood, oak and teak notes with wispy blue lilac, tea rose, dried white rose and ethereal osmanthus. In the bottle, this one seems interesting. Exotic and a little dark, although a bit floral for my taste. On, it smells exactly like Mrs. Meyers Clean Day geranium-scented cleaning products. These are great for cleaning my bathroom and kitchen, but I don't want to smell like them. SALOMÉAnd when a convenient day was come, that Herod on his birthday made a supper to his lords, high captains, and chief estates of Galilee; And when the daughter of the said Herodias came in, and danced, and pleased Herod and them that sat with him, the king said unto the damsel, Ask of me whatsoever thou wilt, and I will give it thee. And he sware unto her, Whatsoever thou shalt ask of me, I will give it thee, unto the half of my kingdom. And she went forth, and said unto her mother, What shall I ask? And she said, The head of John the Baptist. And she came in straightway with haste unto the king, and asked, saying, I will that thou give me by and by in a charger the head of John the Baptist. And the king was exceeding sorry; yet for his oath's sake, and for their sakes which sat with him, he would not reject her. And immediately the king sent an executioner, and commanded his head to be brought: and he went and beheaded him in the prison, and brought his head in a charger, and gave it to the damsel: and the damsel gave it to her mother. And when his disciples heard of it, they came and took up his corpse, and laid it in a tomb. A scent that is both coquettish and sinister. Exotic and lush, brimming with grace and viciousness: almond with star jasmine, oakmoss, red sandalwood and Egyptian musk. In the bottle, this smells very true to the description. I get plenty of almond, layered with lovely jasmine and musk. It smells wonderful. Unfortunately, on me, it smells just awful. The almond disappears, and the jasmine becomes overpowering and harsh, with a sort of herbal scent like sage. Definitely not for me. Off to the swap list.

In the bottle, I get pepper, musk and something sweet (the sugared vanilla, probably). This one is soft and feminine. On me, it's musk, pepper and spice, with that soft, underlying sweetness. I really like this one.

Pepper, smoke and menthol. Lots of menthol. This smells way too much like Hall's cough drops or Vick's Vapo Rub to me. Sadly, going to the swap list.

In the bottle, this smells like musk and licorice. On me, at first the licorice is a little strong. As it dries, the musk comes back, and it smells just like absinthe. Once it's been on for a few minutes, it's very nice. I like this one.

Oh, wow. I think I have a new favorite here. This scent is pure sex. It's very complicated, difficult to say exactly what it smells like. I definitely get the sugared vanilla, and spices. Maybe a hint of clove. It smells even better on than it does in the bottle. My hubby is crazy about it.

Very fruity in the bottle and wet on skin. As it dries, I start to get a bubblegum smell. Once it dries, however, there's more of an underlying musk, but it's still really fruity. I think, "This is a fun scent." Then my husband smells it, and he LOVES it. Doesn't get the bubblegum thing at all. Thinks it's like crazy sexy. So definitely a keeper.