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The Instinct of Hope

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This is such an interesting perfume. It is almost an autumnal scent, rather than a vernal one. I had no idea what to expect from the violet oud, but it's beautiful, and very definitely a deep and vivid violet. There's nothing indolic about this oud. It's darkly elegant, and has a melancholic depth to it. That oud, and the cedar wood, are the stars of this blend--and they marry fantastically well. The cedar note in this is particularly amazing, beautifully aromatic and evocative of the wood. The cognac and balsam are slightly more backgrounded notes that emerge harmoniously, as the perfume dries. I worried this might have a cologne-like quality, but didn't find that to be the case. Overall, the scent creates an impression of a cedar forest, as the shadows of the trees begin to stretch and deepen, and day succumbs to the liminal half-dark of twilight.

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First impression: Heavy, almost syrupy violet rooted in oudh. The oudh is woody rather than barnyard -- the lovely oudh. Like, I don't get on with violet, but I'm still loving on the oudh.

 

Before long, cedar warms up and warms the blend. Scarce hints of hot spices further warm the woods, rather than calling attention to themselves. This is really a sweet, warm, dark twilight-woods blend now. I can find balsam and cognac if I look for them; they have a more subtle effect, but it's pleasing to find how they add to the atmospheric pathos. 

 

The sweet violet settles down and blends in more once this has dried. 

 

This may please violet lovers and those seeking a dark woods mood.

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Violet and cedarwood. This is a melancholic scent. I think its the violets. Medium throw and wear length.

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Just perusing the notes of the spring collection for what to blind-bottle, The Instinct of Hope made itself known to me, somehow. I needed it. Something was telling me to get it (my own instinct of hope?) and so I did. In spite of oudh, which appears in the best of times blends and the worst of times blends. 

 

I took the leap. And oh, it's beautiful.

 

It's the same deep cedar that I picked up in Cedarwood and Smoked Vanilla. A dark, spooky cedar from an old Victorian house that's seen lots of ghosts in its time. Right now, several days fresh, that is the dominating note. Underneath it is the most gothic of violet oudhs. What does that smell like? A deeply amethyst floral rendered both creamy and ghostly by precious wood. It has seen sorrow, but it has not become bitter or tainted. It is nostalgic for past days, yet it has hope for the living.

 

I adore plum musks and plum oudhs. Those are woven with sensuality as well as shadow. This is shadow, cloaked in regal sobriety. Violet oudh may once have been a sensual being, but she is now stately, somber, melancholic. She does not trail in barnyards; she would not be caught near a washroom; she laughs at the follies of men drinking their cognac. She wears a dark purple mantle that sweeps throughout the cedar-and-balsam tinged halls with grace and a kind of glamour. I want this ghost in my life.

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Buttery, rich sandalwood at first. Very Indian. Then it starts to go musty/dusty, and I'm digging it less. The violet I'm getting is sort of mentholy and green?  Not really pleasant. 😕

 

Ok. Now I'm looking at the notes. I think that "sandalwood" I was picking up on must be the cedar - whiiiich hates my chemistry. So that explains the musty/dusty yuck. Sigh. I'm guessing if cedar works for you, this would be really nice, especially if you like old world incensey smells. The opening had promise. 

 

I don't get any p'oud, but I do get something akin to "red" oudh... which is another note that rarely works for me. The violet I detect is far from the floral tone I was expecting and hoping for. This one's not for me. 

 

But, if you like cedar, red oudh, and deep woody scents without the alpine feel, this is probably worth a whirl. I'd actually really like to smell it on someone with different chemistry.  I think it might work well as a masculine blend too. 

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