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Tassili NAjjer, 4000-1500BC Tonka bean, red clay, rose tobacco, and oudh. In the Bottle: Rosy tobacco and dust On the Skin: Definitely a dusty clay note, which I love, tobacco with a subtle rosiness and a little woody oudh in the background. On the Drydown: Seems like there might be a bit of whiskey in this. Overall reminds me of a cross between The Writing on the Slate and Flickering Lantern. It has low throw but is tenacious on the skin. Pretty - softly dusty rose tobacco
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18th century Russian lubok, illustrator unknown Red amber, frankincense C02 absolute, green fig, labdanum, King mandarin, Atlas cedar, and bitter almond. I got this because it has some similarities to a long discontinued favorite of mine, Mad Meg. Almond is usually a straight up NOPE before it even gets to my skin, but MM surprised me, and I hoped Boar and Goat would as well. And the almond is very definitely prominent at first. It settles down quickly, though, and then the frankincense/cedar/labdanum peek through just a bit. The fig and the mandarin blend together into a high-pitched, light-fruity note. Juicy, not jammy. The amber is undetectable, which is strange because I usually amp amber like crazy. After it's been on my skin for a while, it starts to remind me of ... Swank, maybe? I don't have an imp anymore to cross-reference, but it has that alcoholic fruity thing going on now, and the almond has disappeared.
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Christoffel Pierson Polished mahogany, copal resin, Java sandalwood, teakwood, and Sumatran patchouli. Mmmmmmm... This might be the one... The one I've been searching for. Do not let the name fool you, this is the scent of a grown man. Smooth, dark, devastatingly beautiful. High Lord of the Night Court? This is his skin. I love me a gloriously androgynous perfume, and this one is dangerous. A slinky pool of darkest silk on inky polished floors. Well blended, with that silky smooth patch leading, or is it the deep polished woods giving the patchouli such a dark silky gleam? I couldn't say. But it's good. The throw is pretty small on me, but that makes it all the more devilish. A scent to make my hetero fiance question why the 'masculine' scent he's huffing on my wrist is pulling him closer for more. A scent to cause confusion from every straight girl within arms length, "I smell hot guy."... ITS ME, but I am no man. A unisex power scent for all the Darklings.
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Jacob Jordaens A heavy, animalic musk with cognac, fir balsam, grapevine, black cypress, patchouli, honey, and copaiba balsam Clean musk, whiffs of grapevine, cypress, patchouli and honey. But yeah, this smells like a slightly honeyed, clean musk on me. Good throw and wear length. Huh. I'm super surprised at how much I'm actually enjoying this. So yeah, not scary at all. In fact, really good.
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Albert Bierstadt Ponderosa pine, mountain big sagebrush, black locust, pinon pine, white fir, fragrant snakeroot, and Rocky Mountain sage. Just from the bottle, I can already tell that this is exactly what I was hoping for! I spent most of my life in Montana and also lived in Colorado for a few years, and now that I live in the desert, I really miss the smell of those evergreen forests. I have Elf HG, which I love, but it has more of a spring and summer vibe, and I’ve been wanting a darker forest hair gloss to wear with scents like Golden Priapus, Theoi Nomioi, and some Yules that I have with the pine-y snow note. So this was the scent I was most looking forward to from the Trading Post Weenie update (part one)... because it's a darker evergreen forest scent WITH GOATS ON THE LABEL. This hair gloss did not disappoint. When I smell it, I am transported back to those wonderful forests. There’s a blast of pine at first, and it remains the main player throughout, but I do get the sage behind it, and after a while, some fir. I feel like the sage becomes more prominent after a few hours of wear. While some scents become light after a few hours after being applied to damp hair, this isn’t one of them, and I imagine that the scent would have even more longevity and strength when applied to dry hair, as that’s usually the case with most hair glosses. I am thrilled that this is a thing. If you are wanting forest-scented tresses, don’t let this one pass you by! I absolutely adore this and am so glad that I leapt for a bottle.
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Rudolf Koller Grapevine and ivy, olive blossom, lavender, cypress, bay leaf, honey myrtle, Tuscany sage, and jasmine sambac. This one is mostly a yes on me. I didn't bottle it unsniffed because I dislike grape but this definitely smells of grape vines not leaf or fruit. Oddly, honey myrtle has been problematic before also but it's balanced by the sweet and floral notes. Open, wet is definitely the highlight of this cabrito for me, it was lovely osmanthus, grapevine (I've smelled those in vivo, this is my first encounter in vitro) and a zingy ivy but just a hint. Drying, this has gone mostly floral with jasmine sambac bitch slapping the tamer plant notes. The sage and cypress are in subdued support. This unfortunately becomes a jasmine dominatrix scent which means I may now have an amplifier problem whereas I've previously maintained a mostly symbiotic relationship with it. I'm probably going to pass up a bottle upgrade but I loved the top notes. I'm going to search for a partial I think or a few more decants and try this in a scent locket because the wet opening was everything I wanted from this. Plus, label art = adorbs. It's definitely a purchase factor for me.
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A Hoard of Creatures with the Seven Deadly Sins Before a Tavern
zankoku_zen posted a topic in Halloweenie
Cornelis Saftleven Peru balsam, leather, castoreum accord, frankincense, and hay. Balsam, leather, and frankincense. With a touch of hay. This one is a balsam-leather blend. For those that are fan of leather blends, this one is a clean leather. Good throw, medium wear length.- 2 replies
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Cornelis Saftleven Dust, dry incense, parchment, and tobacco leaf. In the Bottle: Incense with a sepia edge. On the Skin: Blooms immediately on the skin and is so beautiful. Incense but with a lovely clay dust note and parchment mustiness. Overall it's dry but also full of depth, preventing it from being one dimensional. On the Drydown: It's the tobacco leaf that ends up adding some sweetness to the blend in the end. Ends up like the memory of incense infused in fabric, like curtains. I like the mustiness but then I love The Center from American Gods
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Christian Friedrich Gille Black amber, dark green mosses, and clove. I tried this yesterday on damp hair, and today on dry hair. This is mostly about the powdery black amber and the moss, with some spice from the clove. The black amber is the strongest note when it is first applied, even though the clove jumps out at me in the decant. This is a cinnamon-y clove that isn't as prominent as the black clove in Black Clove, Tobacco Flower, and Grave Soil HG. I can still smell it when I hold my hair up to my nose several hours after application, but it's not one of those hair glosses that surrounds you in a cloud of scent. But the boy kept telling me how nice I smelled yesterday and said it wasn't the perfume oil I was wearing, and then he proceeded to bury his face in my hair, so I wouldn't say it is a light hair gloss. He always compliments me when I am wearing amber hair glosses (Pa-Pow HG is his favorite), so I am guessing that he was picking up on the black amber (even though it's the moss that stands out to me after a while). I like this, but I kind of wish it were a little stronger on the clove! I don't think I need more of this, as I have several amber hair glosses already, and I already have a clove-centric hair gloss, but I will definitely be hanging on to my decant!
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H Weir White sandalwood, black pepper, muguet, agarwood, labdanum, and 3-year aged patchouli. I can see why the notes make this a daunting scent to try. Because none of them seem very accessible. I get mainly agarwood, patchouli with labdanum, and a whiff of pepper. It's actually a more accessible blend that the notes suggest. Fair bit of wood and patchouli, with a whiff of other ingredients to keep it from being one-dimensional. I think you get a whisp of muguet that sort gives a bit of lightness before the rest of the ingredients come to the fore.
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Giuseppe Palizzi Black pine, white sage, creeping ivy, and wild juniper. This is a very clean green scent. I get a ton of ivy, followed by juniper and sage. Honestly, the sage is almost MIA, and the pine definitely is. And it's a very IVY blend. Good throw, medium wear length. I'm very surprised by this blend as I expected a pine-sage mix, and its all ivy.
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Frans Hals Black teakwood with frankincense, leather, myrrh, and lemon rind. I've only tried a few hair glosses, so bear with me, I don't have a ton of experience trying these or reviewing them compared to perfume oils. (for the record I ADORE It is Gold! It is Gold! and can still smell it the next day or even after washing my hair depending on shampoo) I was looking forward to this one because I'm a leather lover. I got a 4ml tester in a spritz bottle so I could actually spray it on my hair. Well, the lemon is lovely! It's very fresh, clean, and lemony...and not at all "lemon cleaner". I really like this lemon note. Unfortunately, that's about all I get...and it doesn't last long. Within 2-3 hours it's basically gone. Many hours after that if I sniff the part of my hair I sprayed versus a part I didn't (long hair) I can smell a difference - that there is *something* on the part I sprayed and still mostly lemony. I hope others have better luck than I did with this one.
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Pieter Boel Sweet labdanum with clove, tobacco absolute, and guiac wood. Y'all...this is so, so good. It smells strongly of the crumbly amber resin that you can find in the incense section of witchy stores, but spicier. If you love In Templum Dei, you will probably like this one as well. I tested it last night, and wore it to work today, and couldn't stop sniffing my wrists.
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Johann Christian Reinhart Brown musk, leather, castoreum accord, white cedar, amber oudh, and clove bud. Clove, amber, oudh, cedar, and whiffs of musk and leather. This is a much cleaner, muskier blend than I expected. I get clove on wet, and then I get the amber and oudh peeping out. The cedar is not overwhelming. The musk is there and it starts off as much more animalistic, but calms down once everything else is in play. Musky, clove, leather. Medium throw and wear length.
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J.J. Grandville White carnation and peony with thyme, green oudh, pink pepper, fleshy lily stamens, orchid, and clove bud. This one was definitely a carnation floral with notes of peony, orchid, and a whiff of oudh. It was a very sort of white perfume smell but with spicy notes from the carnation and I think the clove backing it up. More sophisticated and a ton of depth.
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Louis Gauffier Lebanese cedar, chamomile, frankincense, and cinnamon. This starts of as cedar, and frankincense with a whiff of cinnamon. As it dries, the chamomile comes out, and its a chamomile-cedar blend, with hints of resin. Medium throw and wear length. This one is sort of manly to me.
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Attributed to Luis Paret y Alcaza Black lily and black pepper with narcissus, white musk, and white sandalwood. Lawd, lawd, this is pretty. Very much a classic perfume vibe with the high toned florals, the dry white sandalwood, and my beloved white musk - but with an unexpected kick from the black pepper. In the middle stage I get something that almost has an astringent quality, but then it smooths out again and settles into a slightly musky, slightly spicy floral. If you like lily and/or narcissus, you should try this.
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- Halloween 2015
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Provenance: Ebay Auction Win. Label: White prototype label, handwritten. "Pledged to the Dead, Pickman", with the not for sale. Description: This one is a lovely fougere with blonde woods in the background. I would put this more along the lines of Wilde, but slightly more smokiness and woodiness. I'm going to slather this on mr. zee_zee and see if he loves it (and given his picky skin chemistry, I can only hope it doesn't work for him). Vibe: darkly sophisticated. Actually I can see Dorian from Penny Dreadful wearing this. It seems light and clean, but sexy, and then you realize that is has some really dark undertones.
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Jean van der Velde II An evocation incense of frankincense, styrax, lavender buds, mastic, and white sandalwood mingled with moonflower, violet absolute, tuberose, and dark musk. I was wary of the lavender, because that notes doesn't always work well for me. It does indeed open up with a big blast of lavender, which put me a little off. After some drying down, however, the lavender subsides, and I'm getting a lot of the violet instead, overlaying the resins and the musk. Those are in the background and not too prominent. The tuberose is sweet in the background, too, but I'm not sure I'm getting any moonflower. Overall, it is a nice dark floral scent, but I will have to let it settle a bit more (this is straight out of the mail) before deciding whether I will hold onto the bottle, since the lavender is a bit too much in the beginning.
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- Halloween 2015
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Michał Elwiro Andriolli Brown leather, bay leaf, tobacco leaf, lavender, and oudh. The lavender definitely jumps out at me... I think because the bay and oudh are also kind of sharp and support it? Luckily I enjoy lavender. This scent is a little different than I imagined it, more green and thicket-y and less fuzzy and brown. Despite this, I quite like it! (As a side note, apparently I have very different tastes in 'weenies than everyone else? I don't think I've ever been first before. Lots of pressure. )
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Paul Mathey A debonair lavender fougere cloaked in smoky red musk, red mandarin, and oakmoss. In Bottle: Smells sharp, and mostly like musk. On Wet: Mostly smoke. It's still fairly sharp and herbal, like maybe Lavendar and Oakmoss are smouldering on a fire. It actually reminds me of Goblin Rider. On Dry: It's morphed a little. Now the Oakmoss is definitely more prominent, and the Lavendar is less apparent. The smoke is still strong with this one. And it really is similar to Goblin Rider, just more smokey, and maybe a little less woodsy.
- 13 replies
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- Halloween 2015
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