Lucchesa

I love this! Sweet chocolate and lots and lots of beeswax. Good throw and great wear length, both of which are unusual for my middle aged skin.

I tested The Crossed Keys blind, and it started out really green. I was sure it would have ivy or dandelion or grass or some such note -- I totally see where Irish Sea Mermaid got cucumber. Is that gum acacia? This smells nothing like, say, Penitence (frank & myrrh) on me. This is a blend where the parts are subsumed into the whole and can't be pried apart. And the whole is kind of quiet and still and cool. I'm super glad I got to try it (thanks, @Teamama!) but it's not something I see myself wearing often.

This was passed on to me by a generous forum friend, so it's not my usual thing. I got a lot of orange blossom and sweet rose bound by a creamy vanilla. The sandalwood was missing on me, nor could I pick out the labdanum or prune, and if I could have picked out the notes I would have wanted at the forefront, those would have been the ones. But if floaty orange blossom-rose-vanilla sounds like your thing, soft and creamy and innocent, that's what I got, with relatively good throw and great wear length.

I was gifted this in the recent blind bottle swap. It is so beautiful. I know it was created for surviving constant stress of the Trump presidency, but we are still slogging through its aftermath, and there is much in my life I have to endure with patience and toughness, neither of which comes naturally to me. As a bonus, unlike many TALs, Perfer et Obdura comprises notes that are ones I enjoy wearing as perfume. That's how I applied this today, no ritual, and I'm finding it a grounding sage and vetiver scent. It's as stable as an oak tree with a soft carpet of leaves at its base. Sage to me smells like righteousness, in the most positive sense of the word, so Perfer is upright and strong and earthy, and it's helping me just keep putting one foot in front of the other, which is what I need to do today. Thank you, @aphrodisms!!!

Marshmallow Snow is all about the evergreen snow note to me. A little sharp at first, a little minty, a lot of cool pine. Very outdoorsy and wintery, very nice. Then, as the pine note always sweetens on me after an hour or so, the whole thing softens, but I never really get a lot of marshmallow. But if you're looking for a that particular snow note with a backdrop of sweetness, this might be perfect.

I got to try this thanks to the lovely Teamama, and I'm so glad I did. It starts out with a lot of citrusy white tea -- the vibe is light lemony tea that you take with a dash of rice milk and coconut milk. After about an hour, though, the tea's dominance faded in favor of creamy rice milk and some nice husky non-sunscreen coconut. Simple but sophisticated and comforting. Although this is a delicate scent, it lasted pretty well on me.

I would NEVER have tried this except that a decant was passed on to me by a super generous forumite. It confirms that I cannot wear champaca, pink or otherwise. Not even the jasmine troubled me here, just the champaca. Oh well, I tried.

The Triple Crown didn't start off particularly promising on me. It was almost harsh stone and crushed greenery. I didn't get any of the gourmand notes or soft brown musk. But the drydown is gorgeous. The storax (liquidambar) comes through, and a little of the patch and frank and sandalwood, and ultimately after a few hours the whole thing is hijacked by a grassy vetiver that I love. It's perfect for the triple crown idea -- stone, greenery, resins. Memorable and unusual -- I can't think of anything else quite like this one

I really can’t wear orange blossom. Applying this was a mistake — I need to keep its upbeat, orange blossom bubble gum carnival vibe for ritual use. As is often the case with components I don’t jive with, it lasts forever on me, and could even be perceived the next day after another blend has worn off. I will re-review when I’ve had a chance to assess its function (and I really need some bounce right now), but it does not work for me as perfume.

I love this! It starts out all cypress, but the vetiver keeps it from going sweet like evergreens often do on me. The two notes find a fragile balance but eventually the later drydown is almost all vetiver. Very outdoorsy and gender neutral. It paired beautifully with my Earth bath oil that I’m almost out of. Only average wear length.

Ranger is all forest to me. I get almost no leather or patchouli; instead, it starts out with bright pine and juniper with something a bit sharp -- the galangal? It softens pretty quickly and then is primarily airy evergreens, and wear time is somewhat less than average on me. A nice unisex forest scent, very wearable and work appropriate.

Muddy Armadillo is a dark and dirty cacao blend, almost as if there’s a bit of hippie black patchouli in there muddying things up. This armadillo is grumbly and growly, prickly but a softie inside. The longer it wears, the more it smooths out, becoming softer and slightly sweeter. Cacao, woods and tobacco is an awesome combination in my book. If you’re a fan of Velvet or Intrigue in the GC or Wulric from the CD, this is a good bet for you.

Judgmental the longhorn may be, but he’s awfully quiet about it. This is a lovely unisex blend with that cuddly brown musk vibe and lightweight resins (I’m getting little to no cacao), but it’s quite muted on me. This would be an excellent comfort scent if it were a bit stronger on my skin.

Gingerbread Wolfman is strong and sharp at first, which I didn't expect from these notes. As it dries down, the gingerbread spice is still there, with some roasted hazelnut and not nearly as much chestnut as I would have like, but it becomes mostly about the honey and molasses. And it's a very strong, dark honey, like those bees have been gathering nectar from Maleficent's garden or something. Like many BPALs with a strong honey component, it lasts a long time on my skin.

Gingerbread Mummy is the coziest of the monsters on me. Lots of gingerbread with vanilla and pillowy marshmallow, it's like a big gingerbread hug. It fades down to a skin scent pretty quickly on me, but it stays there for three or four hours, ready to comfort me if i sniff my wrist. I didn't get any sandalwood.

I usually avoid peppermint, but this was a frimp from a decant circle, and in any case it was much more pine than peppermint on me. It was a cool pine scent that was curiously short-lasting on me.

Le Lethe is my favorite GC red musk, possibly because it isn't only and entirely red musk. There's something about the red musk and nutmeg combination that really soars. The nutmeg and dry blonde tobacco keep the red musk from going too grapey. I'm not able to pick out the amber or labdanum, but I'm sure they're working their magic here as well. The end result is sexy and warm and spicy, an absolutely gorgeous scent for autumn, but easily wearable all year round. And it lasts all day on me.

This got cut from the decant circle I participated in. I'm so glad to have finally snagged a decant of it, and I wish I had more. In the vial and wet, I'm struck by the amber, but on my skin the amber just serves as a kind of transparent, glowing envelope for the leather and evergreen woods, so it's got both culture and nature somehow. It seems to be about -- if a perfume has a theme -- the transmutation of nature into art. It's perfectly gender neutral. I love this one.

My first yam perfume! And foodier than I expected, given the first three listed ingredients. I don't really get oakmoss at all. More like yams with brown sugar and cinnamon. I suppose it's actually the vanilla I'm smelling, and I'm filling in the brown sugar. But it's lighter than that description suggests. Like a sweet potato/cinnamon mousse, maybe. After an hour or so, the amber wraps around it all, moderating the foodiness somewhat. So it's a Weenie with a delicate Shunga sensibility.

On me Adante con Fantasia is all about the honey. Thick, golden honey, gobbets of it. There's a tiny kick of lime and a floaty lilac fougere that just can't hold its own with the way my skin is amping the honey. Like many BPAL honey scents, this one has great staying power on me.

Lately I've been losing the patchouli in a couple of blends, and I'm wondering if something's wrong with my nose. I'm getting almost all fruit here. Berry and pom, with the blackberry veering into candy territory as it nearly always does on me, though I shall never give up my quest for a realistic blackberry that works with my skin. The heliotrope is most evident in the opening, and there's a little bit of bergamot to temper the sweetness, but tragically I am getting almost zero patchouli. And my skin eats this up really quickly.

This smells delicious though not as foodie as you might think. Lots of dark chocolate at first with lots of clove, but as it wears the cocoa wanes and the sandalwood comes through. It ends up lots of clove backed by smooth sandalwood and a little cocoa, and it lasts really well on me. It feels more like an autumn/winter blend. A must for clove lovers.

I quite like this one, and it lasts a little longer than lavender usually does on me, though that's not saying much. The clove is gentler than what you'd find in your spice drawer, and the lavender is the more sharp herbal kind than the sweet sleepy kind, sort of the reverse of what you might expect from those two notes. They play really nicely together once the initial sharpness of the lavender fades down, with the ambrette very quiet, adding perhaps a tinge of nutty musk. This makes me think of a clean, bright apothecary shop.

Wildflower honey, check. And a really nice honey note, not cloying, golden and summery. But patchouli? Patchouli?? Where are you, patch? I have to agree with VioletChaos that the patch is almost nonexistent.

OK, I am having a very different experience with this than everyone else, and it was given to me by doomsday_disco, so it's the exact same thing tested above only four months ago. If I hadn't known this was a 13, I would have struggled to find the chocolate at all. This is not in the least foodie on my skin. I get burnt sugar and all the resins. Dragon's blood especially. Myrrh. Copal, amber. Several in the list of ingredients I am unfamiliar with so I can't comment on, say, bdellium, but the overall impression on my skin is of dark sugary resins with just a whisper of cocoa, and it lasts for hours.