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boomtownrat

Baghdad - Resurrected

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These long-dead scents are back for a limited time in a slightly tweaked form!

Amber, saffron and bergamot with mandarin, nutmeg, Bulgar rose, musk and sandalwood.

Since late 2011 I've been holding onto the same imp of the original Baghdad that I bought off an eBay seller as part of a lot of imps and decants. As a newbie to BPAL at the time, it seemed like the best way to go. On that first occasion, I made the mistake of applying original Baghdad on both wrists and on my throat, giving myself a terrible headache. My husband, who has a bad sense of smell, said it was strong even from across the room. After that experience, I knew I couldn't handle more than a single dab of Baghdad on one wrist.

Baghdad - Resurrected was deceptively quiet when it was wet on my skin, but I'm glad I wasn't fooled into applying more. Once it dried, I got the heavy, heady perfume that I get from the original Baghdad. I caution you against putting on your regular amount until you know how Baghdad - Resurrected affects you. Yes, this has a narcotic effect if applied too heavily. I think it must be the Bulgar rose, as that's the only note in this that I haven't smelled in something else.

As this ages, I imagine it will be nearly identical to the original Baghdad. Just like the original, something in it reminds me of a perfume that my mom owned but found too strong to wear--Cinnabar, if I remember correctly. This one bottle is going to be more than enough for me, since I will only be wearing it sparingly and probably on special occasions, when I want to feel sophisticated. This is perfume fit for a pair of silky black harem pants and a simple black blouse, or a little black dress. If you're looking for an elegant perfume in BPAL form, consider Baghdad - Resurrected.

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Fresh from the lab and judged on its own merits, as I'm not familiar with the originals, but I couldn't resist the description.

 

In the bottle: I primarily get the bright effervescence of the bergamot and the mandarin, with a soft drift of florals or amber behind it that adds a roundness and depth.

 

After 10 minutes on my skin: I get the citrus and a glow of warm saffron, but despite those notes, I don't find it at all gourmand or foodie in nature. It's also much less bracing than I'd expect from having citrus in the front, just an impression of freshness and tartness.

 

1 hour drydown: This is where it gets interesting. The citrus doesn't last on me, but the longer I wear it, the more an entwined serpent of rose and sandalwood comes to the fore, amping up until it rules over a soft hint of brightness and a distant ground of musk. It's a red rose, rich and mature, and with the sandalwood, it stays on me far, far longer than rose usually does. In the very end, after a few hours, in the dryer spots of application, only the sandalwood lingers.

 

The whole journey of it is fascinating, and while I like it at the beginning, I /love/ it at that one to two hour mark, when it's all sandalwood and rose dancing over something else, tempting me to dive into the scent again.

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(Side note: can't remember what the original smelled like, so I can't compare to that.)

 

Wet: Whoa! Hit right off the bat with lots of citrus from the mandarin and bergamot. On second sniff I'm getting a small bit of a musky rose. It's a lot nicer than I anticipated!

 

Dry: The citrus has stuck around and is still going strong, and some amber has popped out. The rose is much more prominent on the dry-down, but it's a liiiiittle soapy now.

 

 

Rose doesn't usually play well on my skin, so I'm not too surprised about the soapy bit. If rose works for you though, I think this is something a lot of people would enjoy!

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I did not smell original.

 

On first application, the bergamot is so powerful, edging into men's cologne territory, that it had me scarambling to the Lab web site to see why the heck I was attracted to ordering this. However, the bergamot relaxes, unveiling the mandarin and then the magic happens with notes of rose, sandal and spices. This is exactly the kind of oriental perfume I so love. Long lasting, with the skin becoming more huffable as the notes deepen. Hints of mandarin remain throughout. It will be interesting to see if that ACK! beginning mellows with time. Now I actually kind of like it because the radical transition is so intriguing.

 

I adore this perfume and can see it being a favorite.

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I tried an aged imp of the original, which was just okay on me, but I decided to throw an imp of the resurrected version into my last Lab order so I could try it before they go away.

 

In the imp: This is much more citrus-y than the imp I had (but I know citrus notes don’t age well). I mainly get the Bulgarian rose, mandarin, and bergamot from the imp.

 

Wet: Bulgarian rose, amber, mandarin, bergamot, and a hint of spice. As it sits on my skin, the citrus notes remain main players, but the rose and the musk are gaining strength.

 

Dry: This is now a citrus-y, musky rose on me. I got a lot of musk and rose from the original as well, so maybe I just amp those notes. The resins and a tinge of spice reside in the background. After a few hours, the citrus calms down, the amber and sandalwood come out more, and I also get a bit more of the spices. It is now a musky rose and resin scent with a bit of citrus and spice.

 

Verdict: It was nice to be able to try this one. I like it more than the aged imp of the original I tried, but it is not something I need more of before it goes away.

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I have a much aged imp of the original, which I really loved, so I blind bottled this, despite several really iffy (for me) citrus notes.

 

Wet: Lots of bitter citrus, but I can smell the warm amber underneath. I like it, but I don't love it the way I remember loving the original. I know citrus fades with age, and now I am regretting not realizing how citrusy this would be fresh.

 

 

Dry: This goes through a soapy phase that I hate. Then it settles into a warm ambery incense sort of scent, with hints of clean musk and sandalwood that I quite like. I think I will age this to see how that makes a difference to the wet phases.

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Imp fresh from the Lab.

 

In the Imp: (Without looking at the notes) First there is a wave of orange. I'm not a fan of orange. I don't dislike it, just find it boring. In perfumes, it is often too sharp, giving the blend a men's-cologne vibe. And I'm strongly averse to foody perfumes. But there is something different about this one. It's not orange juice at all. I'm intrigued - what is it? And this isn't either foody or men's cologne in the least. It's warm and spicy and floral as well as orangey. Really very pretty.

 

Something is tickling around the edges of my brain. There's something familiar about this. It's. . . it's. . . something syrupy. And nasty. Oh no!! Lalalalala, I'm not listening. But it's like trying not to think of an elephant. The elephant bursts in, loud and clear. Syrup of Ipecac!

 

No. No. No. This is so beautiful. The lovely flowers and exotic warm spices and that unusual orange. Not ipecac at all. But the thing is . . it sort of is. It's not exactly the same, but there is a definite family resemblance. Which I can't stop smelling now that I've noticed it.

 

I look at the notes. Ah, mandarin and bergamot, not orange. That explains a lot. I've always greatly preferred any of the tangerine varieties to oranges. And every single note in this is something I love. No wonder I got it. I've just got to stop thinking about you-know-what and give this a chance.

 

On me, wet: No floral. Lots of mandarin orange and spice and amber. The orange note is more fresh-smelling than in the the bottle. And you-know-what. No, no. Shut up, brain.

 

At 5 minutes: The orange is already fading significantly, which helps to move the scent farther away from you-know-what. But it's still a bit cloying like the YKW. The amber is amping up.

 

At 10 minutes: It's mainly spice and amber now. Less cloying. If I first smelled it at this point, I probably never would have thought of the you-know-what. But having made the connection, I can still smell it in this.

 

At 20 minutes: I'm beginning to catch some rose now, and noticing the sandalwood more. And the citrus notes are almost completely gone. It's nothing like ipecac now (so I guess I can say it now.) But the scent memory of that still lingers in my brain. Go away and let me sniff this pretty fragrance in peace!

 

At 30 minutes: A lovely soft amber, rose, and sandalwood. And perhaps some white musk. This has completely transformed! There's just a whisper of the citrus left in the throw, none on my wrist.

 

At 45 minutes: The same, except that all traces of citrus are gone now. It has gone dry and powdery in the most beautiful way. Hardly surprising, as all four of these notes do that on me. But it's not a bad thing, not generic baby powder. It's an elegant and expensive powder from the 1920's or 1930's.

 

At 1 hour: The scent has lightened up significantly in the last 15 minutes, letting a tiny bit of spice and citrus back through.

 

At 2 1/2 hours: No further change. The amber, rose, sandalwood, and musk are still predominant.

 

Verdict: This is a lovely perfume. The orangey notes really complement the spices and incense. And it is a vivid interpretation of the place it represents. It's a crying shame that my memory associates the scent with something so unpleasant. Fortunately syrup of ipecac is no longer used or considered safe, so hopefully most people haven't smelled or tasted it and can fully appreciate this oil.

 

And it gets even better on drydown.

 

As for me, I will hang on to the imp. The citrus notes will gentle with age. And maybe the next time I try it, I won't remember ipecac. The way my memory is going, there's a good chance of that!

 

And meanwhile I will keep an eye out for a blend that is amber, rose, musk, and sandalwood.

 

My rating: 4 out of 6 stars

Edited by Ghost of a Rose

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Oops, I forgot to review!

Freshly applied: bergamot & mandarin, sitting in a tree, k-i-s-s-i-n-g. I'm pretty sure the rest of the notes are in there somewhere, but they haven't peeked out yet. Oh, here comes the Bulgar Rose! Yay! Now I'm getting excited...

 On dry-down: in a nutshell: Morocco-adjacent, with rose.  Rose & Sandalwood (my OTP,) anchored by amber. A hint of musk & spice. Lovely!

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Wet: The smell I associate with a headshop--musk, sandalwood, something spicy--upfront.  All it's missing is incense.

 

Dry: Holy cit...trus. Ok.  Citrus and sandalwood are talking now.  I enjoy this.

 

Very dry: Citrus is mostly gone.  Rose and sandalwood have shooed everyone out of the house and are chilling post-party cleanup.

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