Smoky Moon 2012 6/1/12 - 6/11/12
Posted 09 June 2012 - 04:07 AM
Am I really first? :eek:
The grapefruit is definitely apparent in the bottle, but is the first note to subside when on my skin. It leaves just this slightly citrus feeling behind, while the patchouli and some other resiny? notes come to the surface. (I'm trying to do this without looking at the actual notes list, for moar accuracies. ;)) Yet both the patchouli and whatever dusky woodsy resiny bit is going here are gentle and very soft, smooth. I do really get the image of smoky feathers here - that's exactly the texture of this scent. Downy and smoky without saying 'incense' or 'campfire'. Champaca, is that you? It's a little like the smoke when you blow a candle out, but much lovelier.
The patchouli is like a softened version of the one in White Peacock, and is very well blended with the other notes... after about 10 minutes drydown it's not standing out on it's own but I can still smell the depth of it. The lighter notes come out to play later on in the drydown adding a slightly dusty (in a good way) sweetness on top of it all. The sweetness makes me think of raw bee pollen, if anyone has ever smelled that.
It's got medium throw on me, but definitely isn't an in-your-face kind of scent. Intimate and sensual, and yet not overtly sexual in any way, I can see wearing this day or night, for just about any occasion. It might even be gender neutral, though that's hard for me to say, as I often prefer more 'masculine' scents.
This is absolutely a comforting scent; I think I will slather it on and curl up in bed with it. :D Like being wrapped up in great downy wings.
Unique, and the most earthy ethereal scent I've ever sniffed. I am so, so glad I have a backup of this. :heart:
(edited for typos...)
Posted 10 June 2012 - 12:25 AM
So I was skeeeered when I first put this on that it was doing a red musk type thing (red musk & I are enemies) but as it dried down that fear went away and this became everything I didn't know I wanted it to be. I often wish for a scent that is basically pure champaca/nag champa - this is not that, but it's still a light, incense-y type smoke on me. I actually wish I had it as an incense. It's somehow light and deep at the same time? Like, it reminds me of Fledgling Raptor Moon (which I also love) but deeper? darker? with more wood/resin instead of the carnation? Definitely has that 'feathery' thing in common though. The amber also doesn't go powdery on me which is a problem I have a lot. And the patchouli doesn't go dirty. This is a fantastically blended scent. I can get a little of the grapefruit if I really huff it. So far not that long lasting or with huge throw, but I did only put on a tiny bit for testing.
I would say overall this is on the spectrum about halfway between Fledgling Raptor Moon and Chrysanthemum (spelled it right on the second try!) Moon. LOVE.
Posted 11 June 2012 - 04:46 PM
As a lover of incense scents, this one is a winner for sure <3
Posted 12 June 2012 - 04:35 PM
Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:15 PM
This post has been edited by plainjean: 19 June 2012 - 11:57 PM
Posted 19 June 2012 - 08:21 PM
Then, after a while, there was a spicy smell that made me think of the Indonesian shops we have here, selling ingredients for Indonesian food. I wondered if there was galangal in the scent, which I use in my cooking as laos. Again it is not in the description, but it might well be there. Slowly the champaca began to come through. I decided to reapply, knowing that a second application after several hours helps me to distinguish more different notes.
The second time the champaca was obvious, but it was still a rather spicy champaca. Like I was still in the Indonesian shop, somewhere between the incense area and the spices. Another reason why I reapplied this scent twice today is that after about two hours it lost its lift to the heavens and stayed very close to my skin.
Al together this is a rather strange but very nice scent, different from anything else I have tried. It's a warm and indeed smoky kind of scent but not in the way of tobacco smoke or wood smoke. It is more like a spicy flowery incensy kind of smoke. It would feel at home in an Asian temple.
ETA: I have this scent for 10 days now and I have hardly worn anything else during those days. When I wrote this review it had just arrived and already the next day it was more a piece of music than a few different notes. It's still a champaca incense kind of scent, but in a much more beautiful composition than your average champaca incense (and I do like those too). The wood softens it, the amber sweetens it and it never gets too heavy, there is a lightness to it. It is very beautiful.
This post has been edited by Zorra: 29 June 2012 - 03:23 PM
Posted 19 June 2012 - 11:56 PM
On me, this doesn't have a super strong throw and fades rather quickly, but it's an absolutely gorgeous scent and I'm glad I bought the bottle unsniffed.
Posted 21 June 2012 - 02:41 PM
Posted 26 June 2012 - 02:50 PM
Dark, smoky, dirty.
Posted 30 June 2012 - 01:27 PM
Wet: Auuurrgh! :ack: On my skin, the oudh dominates, a sharp, sour smell like band aids and rotting dry wall. Underneath, I can detect smoke and some earthiness, but holy crap, my skin is amping the oudh and making a mess of this.
Dry: Whew, OK, the oudh burns off after about 30 minutes or so, and I'm left with soft champaca incense. It's not as dark or heavy as I expected. There's a gentle richness of earth & woods, and it doesn't smell like a headshop, more like an outdoor temple.
I don't know if the end result is worth the nasty middle phase. My skin chemistry definitely did wonky things here.
Posted 30 June 2012 - 01:32 PM
Posted 01 July 2012 - 03:07 PM
This is well blended -- smoky and woody with a bitter tang. Half the notes are new to me, so I googled the unfamiliar notes and noticed that guiac wood and orris root were both compared to violets -- an insta-migraine death note for me in two scents I've already tried. I suspect one of those is what bothers me in Smoky Moon.
My colour impression is that it's deep brown, nearly black, with a yellow spiky overlay.
It's now the next morning and a resinous wood scent has clung to me as the last remnant of Smoky Moon more than 14 hours later... almost a skin scent. If it was more like this at the beginning, I could wear it more often. My hope is that Smoky Moon will continue to mellow out as it ages and allow me to wear it eventually. Usually I love wood and resin notes.
Edited to add: Months after my original post, Smoky Moon has mellowed considerably. I don't wear it often, but of all things, I like it layered under Bordello. It seems I mostly want to pair it with sweet scents to darken them.
This post has been edited by boomtownrat: 28 November 2012 - 04:54 AM
Posted 04 July 2012 - 04:45 PM
On me, wet: Same as in the vial. So far, I don't like this one. I don't care for the pairing of incense/wood with super-sweet notes.
On me, after 10 minutes: It has lost the cloying sweetness, but still doesn't appeal to me. It's incense, wood, and yes, smoky. And there's a spiciness, almost like clove - maybe the elemi or just the way everything blends together? In any case, more of a guy thing.
After 20 minutes: Much better now. To me it smells like clove and smoke with a bit of amber. Still not really "me," but at least now it is pleasant.
After 30 minutes: The incense notes have come back into play and are now equal to the clove-like note as it fades.
After 1 hour: Softer and nicer. Still clove and incense, with the smokiness no longer so aggressive.
After 2 hours: Subtle and warm now. Champaca and amber, with that mysterious hint of clove.
After 3 hours: Very faint. It might still be noticeable by someone else (who hasn't been sitting in a cloud of it for the past few hours), but to me it is more or less gone.
More than 12 hours later, I noticed that the clothes I had been wearing when I put this scent on my wrist still carried the scent - at its best. I really like that. It might convince me to keep this.
Verdict: it is pleasant enough after the first 20 minutes, but not my thing. A man might like it, or a woman who prefers incense-and-wood scents.
My rating: 3.5 stars, round to 3
Posted 04 July 2012 - 05:55 PM
On my skin, unfortunately, all of the notes seem to go suddenly wrong. Bpal's amber does its usual thing and turns to baby powder, the wood smells charred, and something smells strangely of tortilla chips on my skin. :huh?:
Powdery woods and something strange and unpleasant... so disappointing :(
Posted 04 July 2012 - 06:14 PM
On my skin dry: Dark woodsy incense. The orris is giving the blend a hint of purpleness.
Hm I'm not really enjoying this one, maybe incense blends just aren't my thing. Off to the swaps with this bottle.
Posted 19 July 2012 - 03:28 PM
Overall: a warm, gentle incense blend, a bit on the headshoppy side but still elegant.
Posted 21 August 2012 - 03:53 AM
Wet: I get lemony herbs, which must be the elemi, along with grapefruit, hints of amber (that in combination with grapefruit give me fig for some reason) and something that smells a little like wet tea leaves (guiac wood I think). It is a rather soothing scent.
Dry: It's much sweeter when dry, which is due to the amber. I get a little patchouli as well as oudh. Very comforting.
Posted 17 October 2012 - 02:50 AM
Posted 20 October 2012 - 06:17 PM
In the imp: incense, like an incense stick but more sophisticated than your average joss stick. It reminds me of one of the Egyptian scents, maybe Great Cry in Egypt, but smokier and more patchouli-ed.
Wet on skin: spicier and woodier now, with elements of saffron, opium and sandalwood (I know, not listed notes) and a bit of grapefruit and elemi.
Dry on skin: smoky and shadowy but also golden and shimmering. The amber, elemi and grapefruit (which is very subtle) are probably the reason for the sparkling accents in the smoke, but I swear I smell saffron even though itís not listed. The champaca is the same one from Panther Moon, the type that smells like really good quality nag champa, except this isnít as dark and musky as PM. The patchouli is very incense-y, almost like opium smoke, and quite different to the earthy patchouli Iím used to in BPAL. The orris makes this a much lighter patchouli/incense scent than usual, and the woods add a dry feel to it all. The only downside is that itís quite faint, like the scent that lingers after incense has been burned rather than the actual burning of incense.
After a while: fizzy incense! Itís a combination of ashes (enhanced by orrisís powdery grey scent) and smoke with an effervescent undertone that is probably grapefruit, maybe combined with davana. Itís still a surprisingly light patchouli-nag champa-wood-spice incense blend, mysterious and haunting, but I was expecting it to be a tad stronger. The smokiness is really intriguing though, it bears a resemblance to light tobacco and opium but is very different too, itís more like gently smouldering fragrant woods, or like very good quality incense sticks. The amber is surprisingly absent now, I was hoping for it to add a bit of sweetness.
Verdict: the best way I can describe this is Ďglittering smokeí. Itís like a waft of spicy patchouli-dominated incense smoke with something golden and sparkly about it. Itís different to the last Smoky Moon which was silvery, more floral, and with a tobacco note which overwhelmed everything, but the smoke here is not overpowering, itís like thin streams of smoke from incense sticks in a temple gently scenting the space, along with the smell of the ashes of that incense. Itís a meditative scent, and one of the brighter incense blends. It is different to the usual resin-heavy incenses I gravitate towards, this is much drier, almost dusty, spicy and woody, more about the smoke itself than what produces the smoke. I like it but Iím not sure whether to keep the bottle, I tend to prefer the richer, headier resin incenses with a lot of throw, and this one is very much a Ďclose to the skiní scent.
Is it a keeper? not sure whether to keep the decant-I think the champaca is getting a bit too strong for my tastes as it ages.
If you like this, try: Paramatan, Hippie Ghost, Epomophorus Monstrosus, Kathmandu, Tushamatay, Panther Moon, Evil, Romanti Goth, Thousands of Lights
Posted 27 November 2012 - 03:54 PM
I wear this all the time, I class it with my Dark Scents, like German Expressionist Horror, Gothic Horror and Phoenix at Midnight.
Posted 26 March 2013 - 07:07 PM
Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:56 PM